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Replace your Serpentine Belt 850/S70/V70/C70


serpentine belt for Volvo 850
There is only one belt besides the timing belt in 850/S70/V70/C70 models, and it’s called the
‘serpentine belt,’ ‘accessory belt’ or ‘auxiliary drive belt,’ depending on who you ask.
It transmits power from the crankshaft of the engine to the alternator, steering pump and air conditioning compressor.

Check your owners’ manual for the change interval. My 1997 850‘s interval is at the 60k miles mark, which is where I’m at today.
If you have your Volvo serviced regularly at a Volvo dealer or independent
Volvo repair shop, it’s probably on their radar, and you probably don’t have to ask them to perform this.
If they’re good,
you’ll know if this belt has been changed recently or if it will be soon because they will have discussed this with you.


First off, the belt for my 850 T5 is Continental part # 6PK-1743. It was US$41.20 before tax.
I spoke with Steve at Viking Auto Service about this belt, and he made a few points:

  • There’s two lengths for the 850. Be aware of this when you order; the tech will need your model and year, and maybe
    even your serial/VIN number.
  • Volvo-branded belts are made by Continental. If the Continental is cheaper than the Volvo belt, buy it.
  • If you take long trips, keep your old one in the car… you know if this belt ever breaks, you’ll be in Mexico or somewhere
    where a replacement will take 3 weeks to get to you by mule (not necessarily a bad thing).


I made my own tensioner tool
There’s two difficult things to this operation: operating the tensioner, and routing the belt.
The tensioner is hard because you need a
special tool, or you need to make one, to relax the tensioner to get the old belt off, and the new one on. The second difficulty
is routing the new belt on the pulleys.
IPD makes a serpentine accessory belt tool set that may be worth the US$30 to you.
I built my own with a vise grip tool and three US quarters. For a belt guide I used a
coat hanger.


Make sure you have light. Sunlight, flashlight, overhead electric lights, whatever.
It’s dark and narrow in that belt area; work this
out before you start. If you have a digital camera, take a photo (it won’t be an Ansel Adams, trust me, but it can save you hours of
headache if you forget the belt routing) of how the belt’s routed first. View these when you’re putting the new belt on.

Put the business end of the tool in the tensioner. Pull toward the front of the car. With your other hand (or if you’re lucky, ask your
helper) unloop the belt from the top-most pulley. Release pressure on the tensioner and remove your tool.

The belt should then come off the rest of the pulleys with ease. Then compare the old and new
belts to make sure you bought the right one. To get the new one on, I started with the lower, rear-most pulley and worked up from there,
all the time referring to my handy digital camera’s LCD screen of the photos I had taken just minutes earlier.

To complete installation of the new belt, do the tensioner thing again and loop the belt around the top pulley. Mine was a bit
difficult even with the tensioner at full-forward. It took me three tries. When it’s on, double check and triple check that the routing
is correct.

Reader Comments

Author: Brian P

While pulling the tensioner arm to it’s maximum distance, insert an allen wrench into the round eye at the top of the
tensioner. This will hold the tensioner in place, allowing two free hands. Once belt is on depress the tensioner
again and remove the allen wrench.

Author: Ian T

After replacing my belt with a pattern part the car developed a wheeze, and squeal in damp weather. Upon advice
from a reliable Volvo mechanic I was advised to use an OEM part which cured the problem, and was in fact cheaper
from the dealer!

Author: Josh R

While I appreciated the ingenuity of the three quarter tensioner tool, I had a lot of trouble with it. The quarters kept bending before I could get the tensioner all the way open (and since I don’t have a helper, I wanted to lock the tensioner in place with a nail or allen wrench). What I found worked really well is a 4 inch C-Clamp. Just place the clamp over the tensioner with the adjustable end up and pull towards the front.

Thanks for the great article.

Tags Continental part # 6PK-1743, DIY, serpentine belt
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2008 V70 Tail Light Lens Replacement


New MVS Forums member popphl explains how to replace 2008+ V70 and XC70 tail light lenses:

Just wanted to share since it took me a bit of googling and sweat to complete what seemed as though it should have been a simple job.

I replaced the right lower tail light lens assembly, which was damaged in a parking mishap.

The part was about $120. To replace the assembly, you remove a carpet panel from the cargo area to access the taillight from inside. Remove 3 nuts from the retaining posts with a 10mm deep socket wrench — the access hole is very small, so you may have to turn it with your fingers.

There are still two tabs holding the assembly on, and you’ll have to partially pull off the bumper cover to access them. There are 4 torx screws in the wheel well area holding the bumper cover on, the lowest of which is pretty close to the tire. I had to attach a T20 bit to a screwdriver with a 90-degree bending head in order to get it off. Then there is one more screw under the rubber pad where the liftgate hits when it closes. Once those 5 screws are out, you can pop off that side of the bumper and remove the 2 hex head lugs that are holding on the bottom of the taillight assembly. You should be able to lift it, disconnect the wiring harness, and put in the new one.


2008 V70 tail light lens replacement

Tags P3 V70, tailgate
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ATF Flush Vs Drain And Fill, And Frequency


Nice discussion of flush vs drain and fill, and frequency in this thread.

How often do you guys flush your ATF?

Tags ATF, ATF flush, automatic transmission fluid, flush frequency
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P2 Tailgate Rear Hatch Wiring Pictures, Repair


MVS Volvo Forums (now) Contributor bestows the knowledge of how to fix P2 Volvos’ tailgate rear hatch wiring, with pictures. Awsome.

V70 Tailgate Wire Harness Repair

Tags P2, rear hatch, tailgate
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Vacuum Transmission Fluid 2001-2007 Volvos

MVS Volvo Forums Contributor Jimmy57 and others discuss how to get transmission fluid out of 2001-2007 V70 and XC70, and other P2 type Volvos.

If you have no way to put car up on stands or on ramps then you could suck it out through dipstick. I have had these transmissions apart and the dipstick is a straight path to bottom of trans. IF you use suction then the front of the car being even 2 inches lower than rear (rear tires run up on two 2×4 pieces) would let fluid run to the front where the dipstick is located for a more complete capture.

Get 4 quarts. IT will take 3 1/2 more or less. I would put 3 1/2 in and then run it and check it.

The funnel needs to be 1/2 OD on end or it will not go into the dipstick tube. I have a funnel with a 8 inch length of 1/2 OD clear vinyl tubing that I use for these. The tubing can be pushed down through a funnel and will seal.

2006 V70 Transmission fluid drain and fill with vacuum extra

Tags Transmission Fluid Drain & Fill, Transmission Fluid Flush, vacuum transmission fluid
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