This is MVS’s semi-annual event where I collect donations for our 5 mods.
They work for the love of helping people — it’s all volunteer work — so this is your chance to say thank you to them.
The moderators — abscate, JDS60R, jblackburn, Ozark Lee, BillofDurham and Phil’s850 — are regular people with regular jobs, and trust me when I say if you donate, it’s genuinely appreciated and probably doesn’t go toward cigars and power yachts. Justin (jblackburn) is actually just starting out in (working) life, now working a 9-5 after having graduated college just a few years ago.
By donating YOU ensure our moderators know their time and work here is valued.
They do two things: they help with Volvo problems, and they do clerical tasks like banning spammers. Without them MVS would be a mess, I mean that, they keep the trains running on time. Think of them as bartenders keeping everyone happy, and managing things behind the scenes.
I don’t pay them — they do this for the love of helping Volvo owners like you. They didn’t even ask me to collect donations, I do this twice a year without asking them because they’d never bring it up first. They’re so modest, in fact, I don’t hear anything from them about donations, zero, except when they say thanks publicly.
- All donors get an MVS Contributor badge.
- Every donation helps. From five to five hundred. If all you can afford is $5, that’s fine.
- You can remain anonymous if you like. Otherwise, I’ll post your first and last initial or your forum username.
- The collection is summed, and split evenly between the moderators when it’s done. Usually one or two mods defer, so the net for the rest is larger.
New MVS Forums member Rilkean posted just now about poor upshifting when using the Geartronic paddles in his 2011 V50:
I bought my 2011 V50 T5 a year ago with 40k on it. Ever since I’ve owned it the Geartronic mode of my automatic transmission has not been snappy with its upshifts. Down shifts are fine. Whenever I tap the shift lever back for a downshift, the transmission immediately complies. But upshifting is another matter. Every now and then when I tap the shift lever forward in geartronic mode the transmission will go ahead and upshift, but more often than not it will not respond at all and I’ll have to tap it forward repeated times to get it to finally shift to a higher gear (2nd to 3rd, 3rd to 4th, etc.). Meanwhile the engine is winding out and I’ll have to decelerate and coast while trying to get a shift to happen, or shift back into automatic mode and forget about shifting manually altogether.
I had a software update done on the car in the fall and that seemed to help for a time, but now its back to how it was. I hardly use geartronic mode because it’s so lazily compliant as to be no fun.
Last year MVS Forums user volvoidaho2343 started a topic that led to quite a bit of wisdom (recent posts) concerning running your Volvo without a catalytic converter. The pro’s are several, the cons are many.
2000 V70 GLT… was wondering if I could just have a muffler shop cut out the converter and weld a piece of straight pipe in place of it? My state dosen’t have any emission laws. Will this effect the drivability of the car? Thanks in advance. Any advice about this subject would be greatly appreciated. The cost of a new converter is approx. $1100, and a piece of straight pipe is around $35 to have put in.
And the barely visible timing marks on the crankshaft gear and engine block – the one on the engine block it’s not visible with the belt on, but can be felt by hand, it’s a small bump. There is also a timing bump on the crankshaft pulley (not visible in the photo).
MVS Forums users yuckuJackD (photos, primarily) and gsnyder (text) show us how to replace the heater core on a Volvo S80.
1. Before starting, turn your key to the II position and turn heater to full heat and full fan. Turn the key off. This will get the linkage discussed in the forum out of the way.
2. Start by removing the Strut Brace (Long bar connecting struts at the top of the engine). It will make the hoses on the fire wall more accessible. Remove 1 bolt from the middle engine mount and 3 bolts from each side.
3. Put a small can under the 2 hoses to catch the 2-6 ounces of coolant that will come out (I used a small rectangular Tupperware bowl). Squeeze the clamp by hand and twist the bracket counter-clockwise while pulling out. You don’t need any special tools for this.
4. Remove the plate behind the hoses (2 small bolts).
Just a quick note to let you know about a new MVS Sponsor: Volvo Salvage. Located in Oklahoma, they offer great prices on used Volvo parts. Please give them a try and let us know in the MVS Forum about your experience! Thanks in advance.
MVS Forums Contributor CN90 explains in a nice DIY how to fix and repair parking brake components on a 1998 S70:
I have 2 problems at 150K:
- Brake Shoe friction material fell off, parking brake was useless.
- Parking Brake Cables were somewhat seized at the rear areas (from cracked areas), and since replacing the cables is a PITA, I elected to save them, read on for the tricks! BTW, each cable is $50, so I saved $100.
Rear Rotor by BALO: $25/each x 2.
Rear Parking Brake Shoes by TEXTAR: $35 for set of 4 shoes.
Big Spring…PN 1273836 x2; $6/each.
Small Spring…PN 3546028 x2; $5/each.
For these springs, stick to Volvo OEM and nothing else, unless you want to do the work twice.
Similar parking brake topics:
- E-brake doesn’t work
- DIY: 98 V70 Brake Hydraulic Overhaul (Hoses, Seals, Parking)
- 850 Ebrake cable replacement
This MVS Forums post by QuirkySwede might be the best concentration of Volvo bulb information in one place on the Web. There, I said it. What’s inside?
- Commonly Confused Bulbs
- Confusion Examples and Avoidance
- Comparison Tables
- VOLVO Part Numbers
- Neo-Wedge Bulbs
- Festoon Bulbs
- Side Mirror “Approach” Bulbs
- 3000-Series Bulbs
- Older Volvos
- Common Questions
- Why does Volvo sometimes list “1156″ as a replacement bulb?
- Can I use a higher wattage bulb?
- Can I “upgrade” to a mini-halogen bulb?
- Any downsides to brighter tail lights?
- Are blue-tint bulbs better?
- How did blue-tint bulbs get started?
- Can I swap out a halogen headlight bulb with a “HID conversion” bulb?
- Are HID lights better?
- Should I switch to LEDs?
- Do fog lights (front) and fog lamps (rear) really do anything?
- What do “SV” and “DC” mean after some Volvo bulb descriptions?