Just bought this car for my daughter, came with one Volvo key and one fob. After much searching I realize that going to the dealer and paying $350 ish for a spare set is pretty much where I am at.
But….I found that the single key that I have won’t insert into the trunk or the glove box locks.
So… my question is would it be doable to go to a wrecking yard and get an ignition with keys, both door locks, trunk and glove box locks along with the immobilizer and just replace them with the ones in the car now?
What do you think?
Doesn’t seem like I would have to get the dealership involved, plus all my locks would work.
That’s how to replace the voltage regulator with the alternator still on the car, by Volvo repair superman RSPI. This is for the Volvo P80 family of cars, namely 850, S70, V70, XC70 up to model year 2000, and C70 up to model year 2004.
So we can replace components of the alternator instead of the whole thing? Yes! If you want to save money, you can replace only the subsystems in the alternator. You must buy the right replacement parts and it can be difficult with all the part numbers. So that’s where this Volvo Forums post comes in. It helps you find the right parts.
Save money when your alternator needs replacement
This alternator replacement forum topic has videos in it that show how to replace the alternator’s subsystems, like bearings and brushes, for those inclined to save money this way. It also has a fair bit of discussion on which method is best for you: replace the whole alternator, or only the failed alternator components.
MVS Forums member Redneck speaks about the differences in parts per region of the world:
Each Bosch alternator is different. There are about 50 variants or more. The same situation is with Bosch starter motor. It is important to find your Bosch part number. Volvo PN is irrelevant here. Bosch alternators/starters are in many other auto brands and are the top, most popular brand around the world. Having that Bosch PN, you look for parts for it and verify it with various aftermarket manufacturer catalogs for compatibility that you can easily search for online. This is a tedious task, but that is what you need to do to do it right.
When it comes to rebuilding our alternator/starter, the problem we have is that we are in a wrong country. USA is a rich country where people throw away things and buy new, or refurbished ready to install. You don’t really see any American online store selling individual alternator/starter components. What you have on eBay from USA sellers are overpriced, no name expensive aftermarket parts with suspicious quality. Stuff they got in huge quantity from Alibaba (and 40 thieves:) from China. The solution is to look in European online stores, better look for Eastern European online stores. It is a big industry in Eastern Europe to sell stuff like that. People there actually fix things instead of throwing them away as in the USA. They don’t really have any Chinese stuff there. Mostly German or other European aftermarket manufacturers.
The good thing about USA is that you can easily find used parts cheap on eBay from junkyard pullers and get those components to fix them from Eastern Europe. So that is what you do! You get German or Italian aftermarket brands! I am sourcing all my alternator/starter components directly from Latvia most likely. $100 in Latvia is a lot of money and they treat you well if you spend that much there. American eBay sellers often treat you poorly. If you ask too many questions before you buy, they block you:) because they are scared:). That is my experience buying stuff from US eBay junk yard hyenas:)
Dipstick pushing up, but the PCV has already been done.
Dan McBoost fixed a very common Volvo P80 and P2 problem: pressure in oil pan pushes dipstick out. But first he had to cause the problem. To do that, he did his V70 R’s PCV system and replaced a whole bunch of wear items.
The odd thing about his case was that he had already replaced the PCV system, which is usually the fix, not the cause of, a dipstick pushing up.
Previous to recent repairs:
Oil cap fill location failed the rubber glove test (checked because of oil leaks).
Glove filled up with air.
Noted normal gas mileage 17-20MPG.
12/15 2015: Replaced the complete PCV system with IPD kit.
12/15 2015: Also replaced the timing belt, waterpump, alternator, thermostat with all new parts (from IPD (except the alt)).
Current new issues:
very bad gas mileage (~8-10mpg, but I have not filled it up yet)
oil dip stick gets pushed up and oil does spray out.
high pitched noise, which sounds kind of whistle like. When the engine is shut off, still makes the noise after the engine stops, but then fades away.
The PTC nipple is clear and the valve cover now has great vacuum (does not fail the glove test).
Does anyone have any idea or ideas of what to start with? A bunch was replaced with new and I am at a loss of ideas.
Interested in the famous VVIS install on your non-turbo 850? MVS super contributor Neil shows us how he did it back in 2012.
Availability of this VVIS mod is not certain, let’s start there. Another important fact is that it works on 1993 and 1994 N/A 20-valve 5-cylinder Volvos, unless you want to look at doing a manifold mod to install this VVIS mod.