I like this car, but the oversized, low-profile wheel/tires don’t help its looks I’m afraid. They’re a size or two too large, giving the wheels a comic book look. Beyond that, it’s a high-ride-height V90 T6 AWD, which is just awesome. I can’t believe I’m saying this, but I’m glad Geely bought Volvo.
Why Build a Coolant Level Sensor?
MadeInJapan builds his own coolant level sensor for his S40 because this common item was not included on 2nd generation S40 and V50 models, oddly. I’ll let him explain:
Well, because our cars don’t have a sensor in the expansion tank (reservoir) to tell you when your coolant is low. This is a huge Volvo over-sight, or is it? Is it just another way to make more money from us? This should be the first defense against losing your coolant and overheating and rendering your Volvo as pretty much toast! Ask the many members on the different forums whose lower radiator hoses broke and immediately shot their engine temps through the ceiling, toasting their aluminum engines.
MVS Contributor precopster ran into a frustrating problem: a bad Magneti Marelli ETM… a new ETM dead out of the box.
As if Volvo owners didn’t have enough trouble with 1999-2002 Volvos with failing/failed electronic throttle modules, now we have an example of a brand new ETM failing… right out of the box!
See the MatthewsVolvoSite ETM forum for all kinds of bad ETM diagnosing, symptoms and fixes.
Driver Door Lock Shim Does the Job
When your Volvo’s door thinks it’s open even when it’s closed, that’s one annoying problem. Here’s a simple, cheap fix that is appropriate for the age/value of the car. (Plus, I have a dark suspicion this part would cost way more than $100 at a Volvo dealer.)
My driver’s side door thinks it’s open all the time. I remedied this temporarily by adding duck tape to the latch so snugs up the connection, but this is a very short term fix.
I have heard others attempt to use JB Weld to build up that latch for a longer term “snug fit”. Does anyone have any success stories using this method?
Also, is it possible to disconnect the electrical connection, so it just thinks its closed all the time, or would the connection need a jumper?
Yes, I can replace the latch, but I am so deep in projects right now that I am looking for a medium range fix to get me through to the point where I have more time for a permanent fix. [MVS member volvooh]
This is a fairly simple fix and a common problem. There is no need to buy a $100.00+ new switch. You can do this job inside of an hour. I will not go into detail on explaining how to take the door panel apart or how to unbolt the latch.
After you have the latch out, you can see in the picture the small green pin switch that senses if the door is open or closed. After many actuations, the plastic parts wear. To fix this, I just installed a shim. In the pictures, you will see the rocker lever that pushes the pin in and our. All I did was get a metal strap, bend it as shown in the picture, cut it to size, and place it in the position that is shown. I did not use glue but you can to ensure that it stays. I did this two years ago and I haven’t had to slam my door closed since then. After its done, just put everything back together again. [MVS member angelglo]
MVS Contributor coflynn comes up with a brilliant and different approach and fix for the AC clutch gap problem, which is commonly fixed with the classic AC bread clip fix. See images from Volvo that show the AC clutch. He came up with an AC clutch gap magnetic fix.
My A/C has been dead for a while, and it was clearly the gap problem. I don’t use the A/C enough to “properly” fix it, and never had luck getting the breadclip fixes to last very long. I couldn’t get zip-ties in as was too lazy to pull back the inner wheel well too.
I finally tried another method to fix it. It’s a bit of a hack which can easily burn out the magnetic clutch, but honestly I’m never going to properly fix the A/C, so would rather have done this, and if it breaks again will give up.
I used a DC-DC converter to increase the voltage being fed into the magnetic clutch. This will increase the strength of the electromagnetic pull-in. I used the following specific device: DROK 150W DC Boost Converter on Amazon. It’s available on Amazon.ca as well.
If you have time you can order from Aliexpress for $4, but I wanted prime shipping so paid the extra fee. The device isn’t really designed for automotive use so it seems likely to burn out from heat. I’d check it occasionally and watch for the capacitors to buldge out, keep an extra 1 or 2 of them on-hand to replace.