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Axle Death Click Click Click

Axle CV Joint Click

Are you hearing a click sound from your front wheels? That’s the CV joints dying. They exist on front-wheel drive and AWD vehicles so that you can turn your front wheels. It’s a way — “articulation” — to get power from the engine to the wheels. You can either replace the axles (“half-shafts”), or if it’s not too late, you can re-grease and re-boot your existing axles.

MVS Forums member theWestVirginian:

I received my new CV boot from IPD today and will try to install it this weekend. The boot has been torn for a few weeks now, does anyone think that the CV joint itself can still be used if a new boot is installed? I’ll replace the entire shaft assembly when I can find the exact one (any suggestions would be great), but I’m hoping a new boot can be temporary fix.

MVS Forums Moderator abscate:

If you have been driving it in really dusty and dirty conditions with a torn boot, I would clean the CV joint and regrease it. They don’t like having junk in them and they are not cheap to replace.

MVS Forums member marshallh:

In fact if you have any dirt/sand in the grease already I’d just repalce the entire axle as a precaution. You can’t remove all the contaminants and they will grind down the CV joint over time.

Axle Death Click Click Click

DIY Replace Axles

Axle CV Rubber Boots Tips/Tricks

Boot Kits are Bad

Tags click-click-click sound, clicking, cv boot, CV Boot Kit, CV joint, Volvo axles
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AWD Versions of the 850 & V70

V70 XC red

Ever wonder about the AWD peculiarities of the Volvo 1990s 850/S70/V70/XC70 cars? Which P80 models were built with all-wheel drive?

MVS Volvo forums member Jazzop asks “Lately I’ve been curious about the AWD versions of the 855 & V70, but I haven’t found much in the way of FAQs/wikis explaining the model differences. Perhaps someone can help?

Depending on what I discover, I might want to add an AWD model to my passive search list of interesting Volvos to snatch up, should I come across one for a steal.”


  1. The 850 AWD wagons were sold as manuals. I’m not sure if it was all of them, but every one I have ever seen has been a manual. They are Canadian only and only about 217 came here. I’ve seen 2 in junkyards.. I’ve never seen a manual 70 series AWD but that’s just me personally. They may exist.
  2. I believe the rear suspension and gas tank are completely different on the AWD cars. Typically the 70 series are just GLT’s with AWD added. Same engine and transmission and LPT and option packages. ECU I’m unsure of.
  3. I went from a 98 S70 GLT on 16″ Columbia’s to to the 99 S70 AWD and it’s on 15″ Ariana’s with chunky tires. The AWD is noticeably taller but the P80 line are pretty low cars to begin with so it’s not an awkward look.

Please explain the AWD P80 chassis cars (855/V70)

Tags AWD, AWD 850, AWD P80, AWD S70, AWD V70, Haldex
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Throttle Body vs. New MAP Sensor

Volvo Throttle Body

This thread documents that the P0106 code is often resolved by throttle body cleaning, not MAP sensor replacement. Saves users about 250 USD.

Specific to the NA 2003 and 2004 Volvo P2 models.


Two years ago I bought a 2003 V70 FWD (no turbo) and I was getting an intermittent CEL that would come on every 500 miles or so and stay lit for about 5 days, then go out. I took the car to the local Advance Auto to read the code, they reported two codes: P0106 (MAP sensor circuit error) and P2227 (something about the Baro circuit, but I couldn’t find a separate baro sensor). I didn’t ask if they could read the volvo specific code, so I don’t know if that would have helped as I searched for a small vacuum leak. I checked all the hoses and fittings I could find, and I read here that it is never the MAP sensor that has actually failed in these non-turbo engines. So I ignored it for a year and I timed my inspection to be between CEL activity periods and I was fine with it. I did not notice any difference in fuel consumption when the light was on; fuel economy was always pretty good as far as I could tell (30mpg hwy, 18-20mpg city)

This year I tried to search again, and again came up empty handed. I had to cancel my inspection appt when the light came on the day before it, so I decided that I would even pay the dealer to figure it out when the vehicle was in for a 105k mile wallet lightening.

Apparently it was a dirty throttle body. I haven’t put any miles on yet, but if anyone else out there is mystified by this code maybe try cleaning yours and see if it solves your problem. You just might save $165 (including the $30 charge to plug in the diagnostic reader; there is also some ECM upgrade that they did, I don’t know if that garners a fraction of the charge).


Today I had the same problem on my 2003 S-60 non turbo. Like you all, I discovered the MAP sensor
above the radiator, and what do you know the hose was deteriorated and fell of. Never even noticed it was there. But what else I found was the vacuum ports on the manifold were plugged up with “goo” and not providing any suction. Both small ports were plugged. I cleaned out both and the car seems happier.

Might be worth checking.

2004 V70 NA CEL code P0106 – MAP Sensor thread

Tags MAP, mass airflow sensor, n/a, normally aspirated, P0106, P2 Volvos, Save money, throttle body
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Which is Better? 13G, 13T, 15G Turbochargers

13G, 13T, 15G, 16T, 18T, 19T

Confused about turbos for Volvos? If 13G, 13T, 15G, 16T, 18T, and 19T make you think of womens’ dress sizes, this post will help you understand what fits on your Volvo and why.

MVS Forums Contributor tryingbe lays it out cleanly and clearly:

“TD04-HL turbos (13G, 13T, 15G, 16T, 18T, 19T, etc) have all the same turbine wheel.

All four type of turbine housings (conical/flat/small port angle/large port angle) are interchangeable between all TD04-HL turbos.

Center section are all the same, early ones have coolant ports on both side, later ones have coolant ports on the same side ports for coolant. Holes are all there, they just need to be tapped if you want to use different coolant port.

Yes, rspi is right, you can swap between turbo physically and most people with their stock cars will probably never notice.

To OP, you can use TD04-HL 13G, 13T, or even a commonly found 15G from a 850. Just keep using your turbine housing. Running at stock boost, I highly doubt you’ll notice any difference.

Now, to show I know what I’m talking about…

Conical, flat, small port angle, large port angle.”

13G, 13T, 15G Turbochargers

Tags 13G, 13T, 15G, bigger turbo, Light Pressure Turbo, Refurbish a Turbo, TD04-HL turbos, turbochargers 101
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2012 S60 Blown Engine

2012 S60 Blown Engine

I posted this on the MVS Facebook page, and the thread continues to grow in the MVS forums… but this isn’t sitting well with me. Forums member Brian — username bkw1962 — got word back from Volvo Corporation North America that they’ve denied his claim on his 2012 Volvo S60. The engine is blown after cylinder #3 lost all compression (for the sake of discussion, it’s done). It’s been measured at 15psi.

The car has 118k miles. This isn’t right. It’s out of warranty, and this is a “goodwill claim”, but it isn’t right.

My advice to him is to keep up public pressure on VCNA.

I was just informed that my 2012 S60 T5 with 118k on it is junk due to cyl 3 having 15psi compression. The only option I was given was to get a rebuilt engine for roughly $8k (P+L). Please tell me there is something else I can do other than that (or run the vehicle on 4 cylinders for its remaining life. I have had ZERO issues with this car until it started misfiring intermittently last month and then consistently 2 days ago when I took it in to Volvo to get it resolved. Any and all help will be appreciated.

2012 S60 Blown Engine

Tags 2012 S60, blown engine, denied claim, goodwill claim, no compression, VCNA, Volvo Corporation North America
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