Due for PCV Job
Tips on doing the PVC on your 850, S70 or V70
“I have not removed the injectors on any of them. The only thing that is tricky is getting the fuel return line off since the hose is a little short. I loosen the upper clamp – it is easier to get to the upper clamp than than it is to get to the clamp on the fuel pressure regulator – and then just complete yanking the hose off as the intake manifold is coming off.
If you do wind up removing the rail I would have a full set of O-rings and the plastic injector caps on hand.”
Volvo Repair Details
11 Feb 2009Posted in Emissions System Engine Breathing, PCV, EGR, Idle Air Control Valve Engine, Engine Internals, Turbo, Wastegate, Oil Pump, Air Delivery, Airbox, Air Filter, Camshaft, Valves, Head, Pistons Volvo 850 Volvo S70 & V70, 1998-2000
Tags: 850, fuel pressure regulator, fuel return line, intake manifold, PCV, PVC, S70, V70
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Not sure if it is plugged? I made a simple manometer to check using clear hose and water. Just use 1/2 clear tube and push into dipstick tube. (my tube was pretty thin wall so it could distort). First put water in the tube so you can have a U shape of at least a foot or so of water and room to move, hanging down in front of the car. Normally the water level is equal of course on both sides. The pressure in the crankcase will push the water to give you a reading of the difference in height, or inches of water. Mine was only about 1/2″ under load, which is fine I think. If you are going to damage the rear main I would expect to see upwards of 5-10″ H20. I don’t know bad it can get or if there is a spec.
So I was on a roll and also did this for my furnace filter to see how plugged it was getting. It seemed plugged and so I was measuring about 1.5″ H20 which is about all the blower can pull so it was pretty plugged. The new one brought it down to 1/4″ or so. I just put a small hole with a piece of elec tape over it (also with a hole) and press down a brass fitting over it (ground flat).