Comments on: Replace Upper Engine Mount w/ Polyurethane Bushing http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/2009/10/01/replace-upper-engine-mount-w-polyurethane-bushing/ Volvo Forum and Maintenance Tutorials - Helping Volvo Owners Since 2001 Wed, 28 Jul 2010 17:47:17 +0000 http://wordpress.org/?v=2.9.2 hourly 1 By: Richard http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/2009/10/01/replace-upper-engine-mount-w-polyurethane-bushing/comment-page-1/#comment-3433 Richard Fri, 02 Jul 2010 02:20:45 +0000 http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/?p=1600#comment-3433 I use an air-powered hacksaw..............I agree that the author of this column is a VERY intelligent individual I own a Mercury Cougar and i rebuilt my lower rear control arms in the same fashion...............use a hacksaw. I use an air-powered hacksaw…………..I agree that the author of this column is a VERY intelligent individual

I own a Mercury Cougar and i rebuilt my lower rear control arms in the same fashion……………use a hacksaw.

]]> By: Dan http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/2009/10/01/replace-upper-engine-mount-w-polyurethane-bushing/comment-page-1/#comment-3282 Dan Fri, 30 Apr 2010 22:00:31 +0000 http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/?p=1600#comment-3282 Good procedure for replacing the upper engine mount bushing. I replaced my wife's S60 mount last fall. I must admit I am very unhappy with the polyurethane bushing. It transmits WAY to much idle noise/vibration into the car. I tried re-adjusting it, no better. Finally, I replaced it with another rubber bushing. Ahh, much better. Think twice about the Poly. Good procedure for replacing the upper engine mount bushing. I replaced my wife’s S60 mount last fall. I must admit I am very unhappy with the polyurethane bushing. It transmits WAY to much idle noise/vibration into the car. I tried re-adjusting it, no better. Finally, I replaced it with another rubber bushing. Ahh, much better. Think twice about the Poly.

]]> By: Sam http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/2009/10/01/replace-upper-engine-mount-w-polyurethane-bushing/comment-page-1/#comment-3098 Sam Sat, 02 Jan 2010 00:51:18 +0000 http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/?p=1600#comment-3098 This procedure worked for me. 1. Remove the bolt that holds the old bushing. 2. The torque arm that the bolt passes through gets in the way, but it is attached to a flexible mount. Lift it up, swing it toward the center of the car and park it on top of the bracket that holds the old bushing. Now you can work. 3. Get the old bushing out of the metal sleeve. I cut through it with a hack saw blade (holding the blade with my hands), and then it pushed out easily. 4. Clean the sleeve, and then smear some grease on it. Butter or margarine will do if you don't have any grease lying around. Grease the poly bushings also. 5. The hole through the new bushing is off center, and it has to be aligned with the holes in the torque arm. The poly bushing should have arrows or some other index mark to help with alignment. The yellow MTC bushing I installed had arrows, and the correct orientation had the arrows pointing towards the rear of the car. It is easier to slip a bushing half into the side of the sleeve that is closest to the center of the car. Push it in with the index mark toward the rear of the car. Lower the torque arm. Are the holes aligned? Rotate the bushing if needed until the holes are aligned and note the orientation of the index mark. Return the torque arm to its parked position. 6. There's a metal tube that passes through the bushing halves. Insert the tube through the half that is already installed. Now with the index mark of the second bushing half oriented the same way, slip it onto the tube and align it with the sleeve. It's hard to push into the sleeve. I used a dead blow hammer. 7. Slip the torgue arm over the bushing. It's a very tight fit, and the dead blow hammer is useful for tapping it down until the holes are aligned. 8. Install the bolt. Per the Haynes manual, tighten to 26 ft. lbs (35Nm)then tighten an additional 90 degrees. You're done. This procedure worked for me.
1. Remove the bolt that holds the old bushing.
2. The torque arm that the bolt passes through gets in the way, but it is attached to a flexible mount. Lift it up, swing it toward the center of the car and park it on top of the bracket that holds the old bushing. Now you can work.
3. Get the old bushing out of the metal sleeve. I cut through it with a hack saw blade (holding the blade with my hands), and then it pushed out easily.
4. Clean the sleeve, and then smear some grease on it. Butter or margarine will do if you don’t have any grease lying around. Grease the poly bushings also.
5. The hole through the new bushing is off center, and it has to be aligned with the holes in the torque arm. The poly bushing should have arrows or some other index mark to help with alignment. The yellow MTC bushing I installed had arrows, and the correct orientation had the arrows pointing towards the rear of the car. It is easier to slip a bushing half into the side of the sleeve that is closest to the center of the car. Push it in with the index mark toward the rear of the car. Lower the torque arm. Are the holes aligned? Rotate the bushing if needed until the holes are aligned and note the orientation of the index mark. Return the torque arm to its parked position.
6. There’s a metal tube that passes through the bushing halves. Insert the tube through the half that is already installed. Now with the index mark of the second bushing half oriented the same way, slip it onto the tube and align it with the sleeve. It’s hard to push into the sleeve. I used a dead blow hammer.
7. Slip the torgue arm over the bushing. It’s a very tight fit, and the dead blow hammer is useful for tapping it down until the holes are aligned.
8. Install the bolt. Per the Haynes manual, tighten to 26 ft. lbs (35Nm)then tighten an additional 90 degrees. You’re done.

]]> By: Andrew http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/2009/10/01/replace-upper-engine-mount-w-polyurethane-bushing/comment-page-1/#comment-3081 Andrew Tue, 22 Dec 2009 17:40:48 +0000 http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/?p=1600#comment-3081 Instead of either the hacksaw or the chisel, use a large rubber mallet to smack the old bushing out. I took one look at it, grabbed my trusty rubber mallet, gave it a good whack and the whole thing popped out just like that. Instead of either the hacksaw or the chisel, use a large rubber mallet to smack the old bushing out. I took one look at it, grabbed my trusty rubber mallet, gave it a good whack and the whole thing popped out just like that.

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