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Fuel pump removal made easy

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's extremely popular car line -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.
1992 - 1997 850, 850 R, 850 T5-R, 850 T5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

Fuel pump removal made easy

Postby luketrash » 21 Mar 2008, 00:03

Perhaps this will help someone else faced with fuel pump removal.

I purchased a pick'n'pull fuel pump out of a 138k Volvo 850 turbo today at my local salvage yard.

It didn't take me very long to get it out once I thought about what tools I had on hand.

Here's sort of a step by step, if anyone wants to write up a how-to.

Find your fuel pump access panel. I have a wagon, so it was under the inner flip-up panel in the hatch. Remove the 5 10mm nuts and use a flathead screwdriver to pry up the panel.

Pull the wiring harnesses free from their mounting point on the car (there's all sorts of wires hooked up back there.)

* Depressurize your fuel system up under the hood next to the throttle pulley by unscrewing the cap on the schrader valve on the fuel rail. Blow the gas into a rag or something. No smoking!

Ok, back in the fuel pumpish area:

I found it very easy to use my spark plug boot pliers to pull the fuel lines free from the top of the pump. No risk of breaking things by using flathead screwdrivers.

Image

Next, I used Jigaloo (use your silicone lubricant of choice) sprayed around the neck of the black retaining ring that holds the fuel pump onto the gas tank. I used it up by the top of the fuel pump as well as down around the bottom.

Then, since the retaining ring wasn't budging by me using a mallet and screwdriver as a drift, I remembered my oil filter pliers. They worked very well to break it free and subsequently loosen the retaining ring:

Image

Push all the little tubings and wires out of the way once you pull the retaining ring free and slowly pull out your fuel pump. If you're like me, you have just filled your gas tank full right before doing this:

Image

Out with the old, in with the new. Installation is the reverse of removal (don't you hate it when you read that sentence???)

Image

While I was putting away my tools, I noticed that my Austin Healey was trying to sneak into the hatch of my wagon....

Image



Sorry about the quality of the photos. I remembered I had a camera phone (a recent addition to my posessions) so that's what I used.


The whole process took me less than a half hour including thinking about how to do the job as easy as possible.
'94 Gunmetal Gray 855 2.4L 100% stock. This is Volvo #7.
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Postby MadeInJapan » 21 Mar 2008, 01:00

Luke,
Thanks for your write-up (I doubt we'll get a better one soon)! I'm pinning this in the repair database. If anyone wants to add more details, etc., please feel free.
MIJ
'98 S70 T5 Emrld Grn Met/Beige Tons of Upgrades Mobil-1
'04 V70 2.5T Red/Taupe Some Upgrades Mobil-1
94 850 Sedan NA Drk Blue/Tan
'00 V40 Purple/Grey Mobil-1
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Postby sseir39 » 21 Mar 2008, 02:24

Love the tools you use. The make so much sense. Great post.
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Postby th-edi ll » 22 Mar 2008, 14:35

Not sure how much better of a description might be made. Thanks for the info and the pics are fine on my computer.

Nice Healey too, kinda the antithesis of the wagon in terms of driver saftey...but oh so much fun! 8)
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850 Fuel Pump replacement

Postby bockreiter » 24 Apr 2008, 02:59

Thanks luketrash! Following your directions I just replaced the fuel pump in my 850 Turbo Wagon. I only have to add 3 things:
1st : Be safe! Disconnect the battery and drain any stored current by pressing the brakepedal before opening the fuel pump access area. Once the pump cover is unscrewed fumes from the tank will start to waft up into the passenger compartment. Avoid any thing "sparky".
2nd: I used an alternate method of relieving the fuel pressure - I pulled the the fuse (#2 15 amp) for the fuel pump. Then I started the engine. After a few seconds all remaining fuel was burnt. If you don't trust this method, there is a pressure relief valve right behind the fuel filter. I personally don't like the idea of spilling fuel in the engine compartment.
3rd: I bought the fuel pump repair kit after some shopping around. I found several manufacturers including Bosch (OEM). The kit I bought comes with the pump, the filter sock, wiring harness, a new hose and clamps. It took less than 20 minutes to remove the original pump from the plastic cradle. The kit came with very good directions for dis-assembly and re-assembly of the pump assembly. I would recommend to anyone facing a fuel pump replacement to pull the current pump assembly and inspect the plastic cradle for damage (cracks). If the cradle appears to have a few more years of life, quite a bit of money can be save with a rebuilt kit.
'94 850 Turbo Wagon

approx. 200,000 miles.
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fuel pump volvo 850 96

Postby John Cherubini Dublin » 06 May 2008, 11:10

Hey thanks luketrash,very helpful info,I actually used two flat head screwdrivers one either side to remove the retaining ring and worked a treat,now... apparently there is a second pump on drivers side (europe) under back door,does this need replacing?? :?:
I'm replying to my own question.. Didn't need to touch the one under the car,i'm back on the road motoring away,may the 850 live forever!!!!



96 Volvo 850.2.0 10v 182,000miles
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Postby renns » 05 Jun 2008, 18:16

I swapped a pump this morning, and didn't have the spark plug pliers Luke used to release the fuel lines from the pump. I found this door panel removal tool in the toolbox ($2 at the local Chinese tool supplier) worked just great!
Image
1998 V70 AWD 5-speed, 295,000 km
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Re: Fuel pump removal made easy

Postby Oahu1993 850 » 02 Jun 2009, 08:24

Can someone tell me if the access to the Fuel Pump is the same in a 1993 850 GLT, my car? I can not recall seeing a hatch in my car's trunk like in the posts for the station wagon. Do I have to drop the gas tank instead...or pay to have it done?

I have just done the jumpering of the Fuel Pump Relay described elsewhere and with 12 volts on both pins where the relay socket is the car engine turns over and does not start. I removed the cap on the little "bicycle tire" valve on the front of the engine and fuel dribbles out, no pressure from Fuel Pump.

Appreciate your help...Thank You.
1993 850 GLT

175,000 miles

bought used 2000 JAN

Costs too much to repair.
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Re: Fuel pump removal made easy

Postby Ozark Lee » 02 Jun 2009, 14:46

The access hatch is in the same place on your sedan. Just behind the rear passenger's side seat under the trunk carpet. There are two covers, one is for the pump and the other is for the fuel level sender. The one closest to the side of the car is the fuel pump cover.

...Lee
'94 850 N/A
'96 850 N/A
'96 Platinum Edition Turbo
'98 S70 T5
'99 V70XC - RIP Killed by a drunk driver.
Previous: 1989 740 GLT
1986 740 GLT
1972 142 Grand Luxe
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Re: Fuel pump removal made easy

Postby Oahu1993 850 » 05 Jun 2009, 19:48

Thank you, Ozark Lee, and Luketrash, especially the photos.


Question: The Fuel Pump Relay, it only has four pins, looking at the bottom contact side of the Relay "103"

front of car
___________
| 15 |
| |
passen | 31b 31 | driver side of car
side of | |
car | |
|_____87____|
back of ca

Pins 87 and 13 are connected when the relay opperates to connect 12 volts from the fuse to the Fuel Pump. At least when I jumper them I measure 12 vDC at Fuel Pump. When I check resistance across 31 and 31 b in both directions it measures around 4.9 Kilo Ohms, which would be a coil. Measue both ways in case there is a reverse current protectino diode in the coil circuit. So I check pins 31 and 31b in the car with the relay out and no voltage on either coil contact to operate the Relay.

?? Where does the Fuel Pump coil voltage come from...directly from the ignition switch contacts? From a computer that must have the crank position input to operate the 103 relay? I assume it is time for me to buy a Haynes manual, but perhaps someone has been along this path and can shed some light. It also appears the Fuel Pump is gone, with 12 v across the red and black wire terminations it makes no noise. But first things first.

I and my aging Volvo again thank you.
1993 850 GLT

175,000 miles

bought used 2000 JAN

Costs too much to repair.
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Re: Fuel pump removal made easy

Postby Ozark Lee » 06 Jun 2009, 01:56

Pins 31 and 31b are (more or less) the coil for the relay, pins 15 and 87 are the closure pins when the relay is active. If you suspect a bad relay, or just want to eliminate it from consideration, jumper the socket positions associated with pins 15 and 87.

If the car starts and runs just fine then the problem is with the relay. You can either repair the relay - I did a writeup on the repair procedure in the database - or just replace it.

From the diagnostic work you have work you have done thus far it sounds like your fuel pump is toast. You can either go with a Walbro replacement kit or get a new OEM (pump only) from Darrell Waltrip for around $100.00. The Walbro pumps are a bit noisier but they seem to last forever.

...Lee
'94 850 N/A
'96 850 N/A
'96 Platinum Edition Turbo
'98 S70 T5
'99 V70XC - RIP Killed by a drunk driver.
Previous: 1989 740 GLT
1986 740 GLT
1972 142 Grand Luxe
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Re: Fuel pump removal made easy

Postby Oahu1993 850 » 15 Jul 2009, 05:48

Help....!
Here is what happened...
~~bought a Walbro Pump and put it inside the original pump housing but NOT IMPRESSED with the result...the inside bottom end rubber round holder for replacement inside pump kind of flimsy, not sure if the spacer spring was solid enough for the new SHORTER pump...
When put things back together got FUEL LEAKING from the pump, which at least worked. Because the fuel pipe connector which is attached to the output of the pump was crushed on removal. When removing the connector there were pieces of red plastic which were the inside of the connector.
~~~purchased a replacement section of fuel line from local Volvo parts dealer, over $60.00.
~~purchased from FCP GROTON a new OEM fuel pump because of my quality issues with the Walbro, probably just being overly cautious, Thank You.
~~~Today went to run the fuel line in and ...here is where I need help...
I can not get the original section of fuel pipe out, because the raceway or through hole between the top of the fuel tank down to the fuel filter is too tight for the connector(s) on the pipe! Tried and twisted, explored, there just is not enough room for the hose.

Can someone please tell me how to buy and install a new section of fuel pump line? Can I just go to the local parts store and get three feet of some kind of line and clamps? There must be special connectors for fuel line, because of safety issues.

As I write my 1993 850 is on ramps in my garage.

Thank you, for any reasonable advice.
1993 850 GLT

175,000 miles

bought used 2000 JAN

Costs too much to repair.
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Re: Fuel pump removal made easy

Postby llama_of_doom » 02 Aug 2009, 05:48

how do you remove the hard lines from the fuel pump assembly? do you just pull up or pry on it. I pulled my hard line off a bit and I see a black washer looking thing underneath with what looks like teeth. Do I have to loosen that or something?
98 v70xc
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Re: Fuel pump removal made easy

Postby MarketingGuru » 24 Oct 2009, 22:52

I too have a 1995 Volvo 850 glt and needed to change the fuel pump. I bought a fuel pump kit $70 which came with all of the gaskets/sleeves, hose, clamps and wiring connector, I did not purchase the full fuel pump assembly which is that white plastic cradle that goes over the pump, I figured I could use the old one, however when I removed the plastic assembly and tried to take out the pump, the rubber seal disintegrated which was inside at the bottom of the assembly, it broke off easily into pieces, do I need a new seal? I probably can find a plastic assembly on ebay.
The bottom opening of the plastic assembly looks slightly oval, is the rubber seal suppose to fit snug against the fuel pump outer sleeve? how is the pump held in place? And I don't know how to place the spring, does it get placed above the pump or below it? should the pump with filter be dangling around through the bottom of the assembly or should it be snuggly situated with that spring? Please help clarify. Thanks
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