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Replacing CVVT Solenoid for Code P1332

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's extremely popular car line -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.
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Replacing CVVT Solenoid for Code P1332

Postby ecbsykes » 10 Jun 2009, 15:36

This is my write-up about how to replace the CVVT Solenoid for any of you that get the CEL with code P1332 ("Camshaft Reset Valve") and have narrowed it down to the solenoid. I did this on my 2000 V70XC and your results may differ, so don't blame me if you break something.

The CVVT solenoid is located under the timing belt cover. Use a Torx wrench (size 25 or 30) to undo the two screws.

dscf3067.jpg


If you have the original old solenoid it will look like this:

dscf3141b.jpg


I know it looks new, that's because I tried cleaning it all out before committing to buying a new one. Some people suggest trying to clean it, but in the few other posts that I've seen about this topic, it never helped.

The replacement that I got looks like this and does not just easily connect into the old system (thanks Volvo).

dscf3139.jpg


These are the steps I took to change it:

1. Change the oil (to start off this new solenoid with good fresh oil) and clear the CEL codes.

2. Remove timing belt cover, unplug and remove old solenoid and gasket with socket wrench, forgot exact size, I'm thinking 10mm. Some oil will dribble as you take it off, just wipe around it. Take care to not wipe over the hub since you don't want any small junk getting in there.

3. Now this is where you need to be careful. You are going to have to cut off the old housing from the power/ecu wires. But before doing so, carefully examine the old housing all around. You will find a "1" and a "2" marked somewhere next to the wires. After you figure out which wire is "1" and which is "2", MARK it somehow. I wrapped a piece of tape around one wrote the number.

4. So now, (with battery DISCONNECTED + ignition OFF) cut off the old housing where the car's wires go in. You have a little leeway because the wires that come with the new solenoid are fairly long. Sorry for not taking more pics, but here is my best artist's representation of what I did! :mrgreen:

carwiresv.jpg


You won't need the housing that's been cut off.

5. Strip the ends of those wires about a half inch or a little less.

6. The new solenoid is a bit tricky. The part (I got from dealer by-the-way; $140 - $20 core charge) comes with a small independant housing, two wires and two crimp connectors. It sort of makes sense how to put it together, but I ran into a problem here.

It doesn't matter which of the two red wires go into what part of the housing, it just matters which wire from the car they are connected to. After I was all done (I thought) with this project, I got the CEL again. But I had earlier become suspicious of the connection. I realized the connection from the wires to the new housing to the pin in the housing on the solenoid was bad. So I removed the "middle-man" housing, and simply connected the red wires directly onto the pins in the solenoid and filled it in with silicon. I'm talking about this here:

dscf3139p.jpg


But note this, on the new housing are two marks both "1" and "2", just like the old one. So regardless if you decide to not use the new housing, still set it up as if you were, and then mark one of the wires as "1" or "2". You don't want to mess this up!

7. Strip the ends of the red wires from the new solenoid, same amount as the wires from the car.

8. Install new solenoid and gasket onto the hub. It goes on the exact same was as the old. It'll dribble more oil as you tighten it down, so have your rag handy.

9. Now all that needs to be done is make the connection. Take wire #1 that you marked earlier from the car and use the crimp connector to connect it to wire #1 from the new solenoid. Do the same for the #2 wires. Wrap the connections in heat resistant electrical tape (I also wrapped mine with some leftover silicon tubing from my vacuum lines).

10. And voila! Put timing belt cover back on, start up the car and drive around making sure the CEL doesn't come back on (assuming you only have this one code, as I did). A bad timing belt change or timing problem may trigger this code, so always make sure everything else is in order before doing all this.

I hope this is a clear and detailed enough explanation and I hope it helps anyone who needs it! :)

-Ed
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Re: Replacing CVVT Solenoid for Code P1332

Postby MadeInJapan » 10 Jun 2009, 16:01

Thank you- this is now in the repair database! :wink:
'98 S70 T5 Emrld Grn Met/Beige Tons of Upgrades Mobil-1
'04 V70 2.5T Red/Taupe Some Upgrades Mobil-1
94 850 Sedan NA Drk Blue/Tan
'00 V40 Purple/Grey Mobil-1
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Re: Replacing CVVT Solenoid for Code P1332

Postby Woody59 » 10 Jul 2009, 17:41

Great help, thanks. Few more points that should help:

- the green/orange wire is pin 1, yellow brown is pin 2. The connector supplied has the markings for pins 1 & 2.
- if you connect it up wrong, you get a P0013 CEL
- yes the connector supplied in the kit is a pain. I tried using it and kept getting a P0013 indicating it wasn't making the connection.
- as mentioned in the posting, it's easier to just connect the wires directly on the solenoid and then fill it with silicon
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Re: Replacing CVVT Solenoid for Code P1332

Postby lifelesslived17 » 18 Feb 2010, 13:41

i just wanted to say thanks for the walkthrough and to add that my car is now running much, much better after putting the new solenoid on. my cost for the part was 120 dollars with no core from the stealership and installation was a breeze.
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Re: Replacing CVVT Solenoid for Code P1332

Postby ecbsykes » 18 Feb 2010, 14:51

Awesome! I'm glad it all worked out for you!

You were lucky with the core charge, I think I got a ~40 something one. Not really a problem though. I too was a little surprised at how well the replacement went for me.
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Re: Replacing CVVT Solenoid for Code P1332

Postby bobice » 31 Dec 2010, 03:44

I also have the P1332 code.

I wonder if it's easy to rebuild the solenoid, because here they sell the rebuild ones and they want the old core back:
http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/2000/v ... enoid.html

The lowest priced new CVVT solenoid I can find is $105 without core exchange. The rebuild solenoid costs $114-$40=$74. Is it worth risking get a rebuild?
I just realized that the real cost from above link is $114. So I'll go for the new one from tascaparts.com

Thanks.
Last edited by bobice on 31 Dec 2010, 05:39, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Replacing CVVT Solenoid for Code P1332

Postby ecbsykes » 31 Dec 2010, 04:26

I bought mine at the dealer and even they wanted the core back. I think you should be fine. Good luck!
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Re: Replacing CVVT Solenoid for Code P1332

Postby bobice » 06 Jan 2011, 02:30

Can someone tell me how to use the two connectors that came with the new solenoid? The stripped wires are a little bit smaller than the connector. Shall I apply heat after put both wires in?

Thanks.
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Re: Replacing CVVT Solenoid for Code P1332

Postby bobice » 06 Jan 2011, 02:52

bobice wrote:Can someone tell me how to use the two connectors that came with the new solenoid? The stripped wires are a little bit smaller than the connector. Shall I apply heat after put both wires in?

Thanks.


Found this, it's easy with a crimping tool from Radioshack ($9(
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Re: Replacing CVVT Solenoid for Code P1332

Postby BuuBBa » 09 Aug 2011, 15:04

I bought new (used) CVVT, but did not get the connector and now I just have to cut the wires and plug those with wires only.
Could someone please specify that which one is marked as 1 and 2 on new connector, thanks.
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Re: Replacing CVVT Solenoid for Code P1332

Postby EAGSMN » 27 Sep 2011, 00:22

Photo275.jpg
Photo273.jpg
I Found that the replacement connector plug they give you easily comes apart. Then you pull the little green rubber boots back on the new red wires the wires will then insert into the plug far enough to snap into place as designed. Reassemble the plug and install it on the new part. The red/green wire is #1 and the brown/yellow wire is # 2 on the new plug, at least on a 99V70R.
Photo274.jpg

The black marked terminal of the plugs in the pictures is the # 1 green/red wire terminal.
Hope this helps.
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Re: Replacing CVVT Solenoid for Code P1332

Postby lhailah » 27 Dec 2011, 16:46

is the cvvt located in the same place for a 98 xc70?
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Re: Replacing CVVT Solenoid for Code P1332

Postby db130 » 27 Dec 2011, 22:10

98s don't have CVVT
1998 S70 T5 233k
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Re: Replacing CVVT Solenoid for Code P1332

Postby sadosado » 12 Jan 2012, 20:18

Hi Ed

My V40 seems to have a similer problem as your car, the engine sound like a Diesel but is a petrol 1.8. I get the P0011 code witch is some early timing of the valves. After some back and forward on the internet I found that I should check the CVVT but have some questions to this.
I disassemblyed the CVVT from the Engine and check the gasket. = ok
The Coil inside the CVVT is app 12 ohm, (so this is properly ok) but when I apply 12V DC to the coil, the housing of the coil gives a small sound like a bumb and then nothing hapends. ?
I have imagined that the coil should turn the piston inside the CVVT or get it to move, or something.

When Applying power to the coil do you know what there should happend ?

BR SB
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