This is my write-up about how to replace the CVVT Solenoid for any of you that get the CEL with code P1332 ("Camshaft Reset Valve") and have narrowed it down to the solenoid. I did this on my 2000 V70XC and your results may differ, so don't blame me if you break something.
The CVVT solenoid is located under the timing belt cover. Use a Torx wrench (size 25 or 30) to undo the two screws.
If you have the original old solenoid it will look like this:
I know it looks new, that's because I tried cleaning it all out before committing to buying a new one. Some people suggest trying to clean it, but in the few other posts that I've seen about this topic, it never helped.
The replacement that I got looks like this and does not just easily connect into the old system (thanks Volvo).
These are the steps I took to change it:
1. Change the oil (to start off this new solenoid with good fresh oil) and clear the CEL codes.
2. Remove timing belt cover, unplug and remove old solenoid and gasket with socket wrench, forgot exact size, I'm thinking 10mm. Some oil will dribble as you take it off, just wipe around it. Take care to not wipe over the hub since you don't want any small junk getting in there.
3. Now this is where you need to be careful. You are going to have to cut off the old housing from the power/ecu wires. But before doing so, carefully examine the old housing all around. You will find a "1" and a "2" marked somewhere next to the wires. After you figure out which wire is "1" and which is "2", MARK it somehow. I wrapped a piece of tape around one wrote the number.
4. So now, (with battery DISCONNECTED + ignition OFF
) cut off the old housing where the car's wires go in. You have a little leeway because the wires that come with the new solenoid are fairly long. Sorry for not taking more pics, but here is my best artist's representation of what I did!
You won't need the housing that's been cut off.
5. Strip the ends of those wires about a half inch or a little less.
6. The new solenoid is a bit tricky. The part (I got from dealer by-the-way; $140 - $20 core charge) comes with a small independant housing, two wires and two crimp connectors. It sort of makes sense how to put it together, but I ran into a problem here.
It doesn't matter which of the two red wires go into what part of the housing, it just matters which wire from the car they are connected to. After I was all done (I thought) with this project, I got the CEL again. But I had earlier become suspicious of the connection. I realized the connection from the wires to the new housing to the pin in the housing on the solenoid was bad. So I removed the "middle-man" housing, and simply connected the red wires directly onto the pins in the solenoid and filled it in with silicon.
I'm talking about this here:But note this, on the new housing are two marks both "1" and "2", just like the old one. So regardless if you decide to not use the new housing, still set it up as if you were, and then mark one of the wires as "1" or "2". You don't want to mess this up!
7. Strip the ends of the red wires from the new solenoid, same amount as the wires from the car.
8. Install new solenoid and gasket onto the hub. It goes on the exact same was as the old. It'll dribble more oil as you tighten it down, so have your rag handy.
9. Now all that needs to be done is make the connection. Take wire #1 that you marked earlier from the car and use the crimp connector to connect it to wire #1 from the new solenoid. Do the same for the #2 wires. Wrap the connections in heat resistant electrical tape (I also wrapped mine with some leftover silicon tubing from my vacuum lines).
10. And voila! Put timing belt cover back on, start up the car and drive around making sure the CEL doesn't come back on (assuming you only have this one code, as I did). A bad timing belt change or timing problem may trigger this code, so always make sure everything else is in order before doing all this.
I hope this is a clear and detailed enough explanation and I hope it helps anyone who needs it!