I need some help! I bought a 98 Volvo V70 with engine problems. After the compression check revealed bent valves, I had the head rebuilt. Brought it home, bought the locking tool and bolted the top of the head back on. Now here's the problem: after installing the camshaft pulleys (two different timing marks one white and one etched) and the belt- the engine isn't starting. I've checked the gas, spark, and everything else I can think of. The only conclusion I can come up with is that the timing is still off. All the diagrams I have been able to find aren't detailed enough to show exactly what the placement of the pulleys should be. The only ray of hope I have seen was after minor adjustments to the timing (for about the 50th time) I got a 180 out response. Any ideas on what could be the problem? or help with the exact positioning of the pulleys and cam position sensor? or rotor bug? Thanks Seth
Be very careful here or you can chunk the valves again just using the starter.
I assume that you had the crankshaft set at #1 top dead center and set the cams to book spec with he slots on the back of the camshafts. At that point the front sprockets should have been lined up. The marks to look at are etched marks, if you have white marks they were added by someone and they would match somewhere else.
Thanks Lee- Yes it was at TDC. So I pulled the sprockets back and and reset everything so the slots lined back up. I put the sprockets back on and everything aligned perfectly! (using the etched markings this time.) I was a lil wary to start it up so I manually turned the crank to make sure there would be no interference with the valves- and it won't turn. It feels like it's hitting the valves. I followed all of the instructions that I got off of the website ALLDATAdiy.com and the Chilton's manual that I have. I just don't understand how everything can be aligned perfectly and it feels like the crank is hitting the valves. The motor that I have is a b5254T vin 56. If there is anything you or anyone else has to offer- I would really appreciate it. I'm about to break out the c-4 and call it a night!
I'm not sure what kind of detail Chiltons has - most of the manuals I buy from them wind up as door stops and then I go buy the Haynes. The Haynes has its warts as well but overall it is much better. The only time I used AllData was on my daughter's Porsche 944 and, outside of a strip joint, it was the biggest waste of $20.00 I have ever made. I have heard that they are actually OK when it comes to the 850 series.
The key is that the slots on the back of the cams are eccentric. Properly aligned when the top of the cam tower goes on the slot on the back of the of intake cam should be slightly above the joint and the slot on the back of the exhaust cam should be slightly below the joint between the head and the bottom of the cam tower - this is as you are looking at the top of the cam tower upside down on the bench. The offset is subtle at a glance but once you look for it it is obvious. If you can scare up a Haynes manual they have very good pictures and you can even double check things with the position of the lobes in the picture.
Did you remove the sprockets off of the camshafts in this process and is there a chance that the intake and exhaust cams got reversed?
If you removed the front cam sprockets then you know that they have slotted grooves that provide for adjustable cam timing. Centering them in the slots is close enough. I use spray paint to mark them before I remove the sprockets but they don't allow enough adjustment that the car won't run if you get off to one side or the other. It may run poorly but it still should run.