Issue Resolved - Car won't stay running - VIDEO added

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1992 - 1997 850, 850 R, 850 T5-R, 850 T5, 850 GLT
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mrreilly
Posts: 259
Joined: Fri Aug 04, 2006 2:53 am
Year and Model: 1998 Volvo S70 GLT
Location: Notheast, Ohio

Issue Resolved - Car won't stay running - VIDEO added

Postby mrreilly » Thu Dec 16, 2010 10:40 pm

Hello all,
I just bought a new battery for my S70 today. My old one died twice on me this week and I had it tested and it was bad. So I put the new battery in, and started up the car. It cranked but didn't stay running. So I gave the car a little gas when I turned the ignition again and it reved up and fine until I took my foot of the gas and it died right away. Did the same thing again and it died right away again. Next I held my foot on the gas when I started it up and it continued to run while I held the accelerator down. I repeated this a few times and tried driving it around too but no matter what in order for the car to keep running I have to be holding the gas pedal down.

Any ideas? Alternator issue maybe?

Thanks for any advice or help.
Last edited by mrreilly on Wed Dec 22, 2010 12:12 am, edited 2 times in total.
1998 Volvo S70 GLT Black/Tan
Approx. 173,000 3/27/2010
My major repairs:
Timing Belt, Left&Right Control Arms, Tie-rod ends, Lower Engine Mount, Engine Stabilizer Mount, IPD Sway Bar Links, Brakes , Head Gasket, PCV System, Turbo Rebuild, and more

JDS60R
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Re: Urgent! Car won't stay running

Postby JDS60R » Thu Dec 16, 2010 11:53 pm

Get the codes pulled at a local parts store and let us know. Could be many things including MAF fault or improper connection at the new battery.
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Duake
Posts: 73
Joined: Sun Dec 13, 2009 2:33 pm
Year and Model: S70, 1998
Location: Alabama

Re: Urgent! Car won't stay running

Postby Duake » Fri Dec 17, 2010 3:09 am

Sounds like my issue. After replacing a bunch of things, I found out it was the MAF sensor. If you have an AutoZone nearby, you can rent an OBD reader for $150. You'll get your money back when you return it, so no worries there. Best to do it sooner than later.

Retired MVS Contributor

Re: Urgent! Car won't stay running

Postby Retired MVS Contributor » Fri Dec 17, 2010 3:32 am

Disconnect the MAF then try starting...If it runs, the MAF is bad...Disconnecting the MAF puts it in limp mode, and it will run, but poorly with no power...

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mrreilly
Posts: 259
Joined: Fri Aug 04, 2006 2:53 am
Year and Model: 1998 Volvo S70 GLT
Location: Notheast, Ohio

Re: Urgent! Car won't stay running

Postby mrreilly » Fri Dec 17, 2010 6:32 pm

I disconnected the MAF and I still have the same issue.
To test the alternator, I was told to get the car running and then take the positive battery cable off and see if the car still runs. If it dies that's an indicator that the alternator isn't holding power. But it continued to run even when I took the cable off. One other thing I checked for was any vacuum lines that had come off. Everything looks in place.
1998 Volvo S70 GLT Black/Tan
Approx. 173,000 3/27/2010
My major repairs:
Timing Belt, Left&Right Control Arms, Tie-rod ends, Lower Engine Mount, Engine Stabilizer Mount, IPD Sway Bar Links, Brakes , Head Gasket, PCV System, Turbo Rebuild, and more

Ozark Lee
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Posts: 14075
Joined: Thu Sep 07, 2006 2:24 pm
Year and Model: Many Volvos
Location: USA Midwest
Flag: United States of America

Re: Urgent! Car won't stay running

Postby Ozark Lee » Fri Dec 17, 2010 8:07 pm

Taking a battery cable off while the car is running is playing with fire. If you can get it to an auto parts store and get it to run they can test the alternator while it is in the car.

...Lee
'94 850 N/A 5 speed
'96 Platinum Edition Turbo
'98 S70 T5
'99 V70XC - RIP - Wrecked Parts Car.
'99 V70XC - Nautic Blue
Previous:
'96 850 N/A
1989 740 GLT
1986 740 GLT
1972 142 Grand Luxe

Retired MVS Contributor

Re: Urgent! Car won't stay running

Postby Retired MVS Contributor » Fri Dec 17, 2010 9:54 pm

I don't know where the idea of removing the battery cable while the engine is running came from, but that is a MAJOR NO NO!!! and you warned against it right in yourowner's manual...The alternator is running unregulated when you do that and the high voltage can destroy the electronic modules...You were very fortunate and I think it points to a non-working alternator, otherwise you would have some very expensive repairs to make right now...

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mrreilly
Posts: 259
Joined: Fri Aug 04, 2006 2:53 am
Year and Model: 1998 Volvo S70 GLT
Location: Notheast, Ohio

Re: Urgent! Car won't stay running

Postby mrreilly » Fri Dec 17, 2010 11:04 pm

Got my car towed home from school today. I have a code scanner here at home so I just ran the code and found it was the MAF.
CODE: P0102 - MAF or VAF A circuit low input
So does this mean buy a new MAF sensor??

Thanks for everyones help too! I really appreciate it. And the whole disconnecting the battery thing did sound kinda sketchy but it was kind of a last home sort of thing otherwise my car would have been stuck at school.
1998 Volvo S70 GLT Black/Tan
Approx. 173,000 3/27/2010
My major repairs:
Timing Belt, Left&Right Control Arms, Tie-rod ends, Lower Engine Mount, Engine Stabilizer Mount, IPD Sway Bar Links, Brakes , Head Gasket, PCV System, Turbo Rebuild, and more

Ozark Lee
MVS Moderator
Posts: 14075
Joined: Thu Sep 07, 2006 2:24 pm
Year and Model: Many Volvos
Location: USA Midwest
Flag: United States of America

Re: Urgent! Car won't stay running

Postby Ozark Lee » Fri Dec 17, 2010 11:08 pm

I don't know where the idea of removing the battery cable while the engine is running came from, but that is a MAJOR NO NO!!


Back in the day of carburetors and distributors with points (No ECU) it was pretty common to try this trick. That train left the station a long time ago. I agree with Jerry - Bad Idea.

I can't remember the last car I had that was devoid of electronic engine control systems - It must have been either the '69 AMX or the '74 Nova.

...Lee
'94 850 N/A 5 speed
'96 Platinum Edition Turbo
'98 S70 T5
'99 V70XC - RIP - Wrecked Parts Car.
'99 V70XC - Nautic Blue
Previous:
'96 850 N/A
1989 740 GLT
1986 740 GLT
1972 142 Grand Luxe

Retired MVS Contributor

Re: Urgent! Car won't stay running

Postby Retired MVS Contributor » Sat Dec 18, 2010 8:37 pm

Disconnecting the battery while the car was running was OK with generators, but not with alternators...The following is a download from a website on alternators taken this AM...It has a lot of helpful hints on alternator testing...Matt might want to archive it...

Never operate an alternator on an open circuit. With no battery or electrical load in the circuit, alternators are capable of building high voltage (50 to over 110 volts) which may damage diodes and endanger anyone who touches the alternator output terminal. Alternator maintenance is minimized by the use of prelubricated bearings and longer lasting brushes. If a problem exists in the charging circuit, check for a complete field circuit by placing a large screwdriver on the alternator rear-bearing surface. If the field circuit is complete, there will be a strong magnetic pull on the blade of the screwdriver, which indicates that the field is energized. If there is no field current, the alternator will not charge because it is excited by battery voltage. Should you suspect troubles within the charging system after checking the wiring connections and battery, connect a voltmeter across the battery terminals. If the voltage reading, with the engine speed increased, is within the manufacturer’s recommended specification, the charging system is functioning properly. Should the alternator tests fail, the alternator should be removed for repairs or replacement. Do NOT forget, you must ALWAYS disconnect the cables from the battery first. Alternator Testing To determine what component(s) has caused the problem, you will be required to disassemble and test the alternator. ROTOR TESTING.—To test the rotor for grounds, shorts, and opens, perform the following: To check for grounds, connect a test lamp or ohmmeter from one of the slip rings to the rotor shaft (fig. 2-29). A low ohmmeter reading or the Figure 2-29.—Testing rotor for grounds. lighting of the test lamp indicates that the rotor winding is grounded. To check the rotor for shorts and opens, connect the ohmmeter to both slip rings, as shown in figure 2-30. An ohmmeter reading below the manufacturer’s specified resistance value indicates a short. A reading above the specified resistance value indicates an open. If a test lamp does not light when connected to both slip rings, the winding is open. STATOR TESTING.—The stator winding can be tested for opens and grounds after it has been disconnected from the alternator end frame. If the ohmmeter reading is low or the test lamp lights when connected between each pair of stator leads (fig. 2-31), the stator winding is electrically good. A high ohmmeter reading or failure of the test lamp to light when connected from any one of the leads to Figure 2-30.—Testing the rotor for opens and shorts. Figure 2-31 .-Testing a stator for opens. 2-21

Jerry


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