I have a 96 850 turbo 130k miles, and removed the L. axle, which is a major job in itself. I did not trust a puller- thought I'd bend the flange it was so tight. Also pounded a lot on the shaft (via the puller) - threads are ok but the wheel bearing is not as smooth as I'd expect. Hope I did not damage the bearing from pounding. To remove the axle I ended up making a 1/2" plate with 5 holes and using bolts screwing into the 5 wheel lug holes. This worked great. Just tightened the bolts slowly and evenly.
I have just purchased the car and it had a noise, and a bad axle boot so it seemed like a CV joint. The noise or vibration was proportional to the car speed. After I got the axle off and inspected, it appears to be just fine. Not enough time on the boot to get dirt in there. So I think there is a transaxle bearing issue . Is there a problem with these?
I cannot remove the CV joint from the axle. THe clip I can expand fairly well but the joint does not move off the axle. Anyone know if it requires pounding to get the joint off the spline? (a trick while holding the clip open). Or am I just not getting the clip open wide enough?
Well I found a tutorial on Volvospeed http://volvospeed.com/volvo_repairs_how ... ement.html but he had no problem getting the axle out of the bearing. Mine was really on there. And he did not mention aligning the outer CV joint with the inner joint. I've heard this is important or you get a vibration. They are currently aligned (they both bend the same way.) Anyway it does take some pounding to remove the joint with the clip expanded.
Depends where the car has been most of its life. While I replaced them at different times, my hub bearing was stuck on there real good, but as soon as I got the axle nut off and unbolted the control arm, the axle fell right out for me. My car spent most of its life down in NC where they rarely get snow or salt on the roads (and people freak out there and don't drive in it, anyway)
'98 S70 T5 218K miles 2012 Chevy Cruze LT 6MT
A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."
Well I got the outer joint all cleaned out and repacked and it looks like new and is tight. I left the inner one as is because the boot looked good and I didn't want to mess with it. Seemed smooth and tight. I still have the vibration, only when the L. side wheel is turning. The sound doesn't seem to be coming from the inner CV joint but more like inside the transmission. I could be wrong though. Maybe the inner joint is bad. But the noise is constant, not affected by steering. Sounds like a bearing that has rough spots, kind of like a playing cards put on a wheel spokes of a bicycle, but muffled. There is a small amount of vibration in the steering wheel. I think it is a bad bearing in the transaxle. But I think I'll try swapping the axle from my 97. This is a 96.
Seems to be the wheel bearing. I ran across something called JustAnswer, where they have experts online. It is risk free so I explained to a Volvo mechanic. He said to try driving 40-50 where the noise is bad, and turn slightly. It will get worse if it is a bearing. And it did, slightly but turning R will make it worse for a L bearing bad, he said. He's never had a bad transmission make a noise. The Tracs system uses the ABS, not internal, so that couldn't be it (I thouht that might be). Tracs uses ABS even when brakes are not on to control slippage. Haven't replaced it yet. Oh- it was $18. You don't have to pay if you don't like the answer but I certainly did.
Replaced LF hub and all is well. I got a good deal at swedishpartsshop.com, the Timken unit for 116 had a FAG bearing and was made in Germany. No shipping charge. I didn't replace the bolts- I think they want that because it is hard to get an accurate torque reading the second time. But I have tightened a lot of bolts in my time and think I got it them tight enough be feel. I'll check them. Same for the bolts holding the lower suspension wishbone arm.