2000 V70-XC Not Starting

[mrsgodsil611]

Hi! I was a fool (at least my wallet thinks so) and purchased a used 2000 V70-XC AWD with 141k a couple of years ago. I'm up to 149k and after replacing the radiator and countless attempts to figure out my check engine light i've decided that I'll just live with the problems the car gives me.

New problem. I live in the midwest, we recently had cold snap (finally) and due to my parking my car was exposed to 30+mph winds at -8 plus windchill. When I went to go start the car, it wouldn't turn over. No clicking but we suspected the battery had succumb to the cold. 30 minutes later, still cranking but not turning over. The thought was possibly a frozen fuel line.

I've added heet and let it sit for the last 5 hours. Another attempt results in cranking but no turning over. However it has a "chirping" noise that makes the RPM meter jump while cranking. I'm still praying it's a frozen fuel line since the temp hasn't gotten terribly warm. But is there something I'm missing? Looking for a little more "educated input."

Thanks!

[Ozark Lee]

Welcome to MVS,

From what I read you have a car that will crank with the starter but it will not fire and run. If you suspect a fuel delivery problem you should check for fuel pressure at the schrader valve on the end of the fuel rail. It is best checked with an actual fuel pressure gauge but I have used a tire gauge in the past. Ideally you should see around 43 PSI at the end of the fuel rail.

Frozen gas is a rarity in the US unless you are going to some way off brand station and even then I would categorise it as rare.

The tachometer jumping as the car is cranking tends to say the Cam Position Sensor is working.

Is the check engine light on and, if so, have you had the codes read?

...Lee

[mrsgodsil611]

Check Engine is on... it's been on for a while. After reading on this forum and the nightmare "it never goes off posts" though I've learned to pretty much live with it.

In addition to the Radiator being replaced (2/10) I also replaced 3 of the 5 coils (5/10 after the Check Engine finally started flashing at me) which I was told was the original reason for the check engine light being on. 2 hours after leaving the lot it came back on. I'm 45 mins from the nearest Volvo dealer so I am trusting "the one guy in town" that has 1/2 an idea of what he's doing. And even he said this latest "Check Engine" light had "something to do with the Solenoid" but he wasn't sure.

It's still not starting 6 hours after I posted this. I conveniently live in an area where a flatbed tow is going to be a nightmare so I'm trying to figure out everything i possibly can to get it at least running long enough to get it in to be serviced. I'm in over my head at this point and trying to find some sort of bright spot before I spend the $100's of dollars this is obviously going to cost me, especially if it is the Solenoid finally going. Could that be the issue? Or would that affect the entire starter system?

[BEJinFbk]

Basic code scanners are cheap and you'll get much better
online assistance if you provide more detailed information.

[rspi]

First, lean the seat back and lower the back seats so you can hear the cargo area. Or have someone listed to the gas tank filler neck when you turn the key, try to start the car and when you let the key go, listed to hear if the fuel pump whines for 3 or 4 seconds. If you DO hear the fuel pump whine, you need to check for spark. If you do NOT hear the fuel pump whine, let us know. You will need to jump the fuel pump relay to see if you can get the fuel pump going.

As Lee posted, fuel pump running = fuel pressure.

[osman]

These cars are manufactured in Sweden. Frozen gas would be a new one to me.
Reasons could be fuel injector relay or the fuel pump relay or the crankshaft or cam sensor.
Not excluding plugs and or coils/wires.
Need more info to help you.
You can get an ELM 327 bluetooth OBD II reader for $20 through the above Amazon link hook it up to your smartphone with a free app and you can read your cars CEL/OBD II codes.

[mrsgodsil611]

OK. I'm not hearing the fuel pump whining and i checked that valve (my brother-in-law suggested a method of checking that too) and there's no pressure on it.

[jblackburn]

Bad news

The fuel pump is a PITA to change on an AWD model. The easiest method is to cut a hole in the floorboards - make sure you can seal it back up with a metal plate or something, though.

http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic/14 ... d-install/

[rspi]

Remove the relay, jump the relay plug and see if that turns the pump on.

[Xilikon]

Bad news

The fuel pump is a PITA to change on an AWD model. The easiest method is to cut a hole in the floorboards - make sure you can seal it back up with a metal plate or something, though.

http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic/14 ... d-install/

A real pita indeed but I did it myself. I could offer assistance if you need it.

[russellclive]

replacing fuel pump in 2000 awd xc 70 by cutting thro the trunk floor, Where do you cut? How deep can you go ? ie how close are lines and hoses to floor? what other things should be considered? which side is high pressure pump on? is more than one hole needed?
russ