If anyone has some advice for me, I would greatly appreciate it.
The car started to have trouble starting. It would take several times cranking it and pushing the gas pedal to get it going. This happened intermittently over a few days, then the car would rarely start. 9 times out of 10 now it cranks but does not start, and if it starts, it typically dies immediately.
Last weekend, I replaced the thermostat and coolant temperature sensor, but it did not fix the problem (though the thermostat was clearly stuck open). This weekend, I tried to diagnose the problem without success. I checked for spark, and the spark looked good. I tried to check fuel pressure, but the fuel pressure gauge that I was able to use, didn't seem to work. When I press on the schrader valve fuel comes out (no spray, more like a faucet), but the gauge registered 0 psi. The gauge looked like it might be broken. I hear a hum from the front of the vehicle, near the fuel lines, when the key is in the II position, but no noise from near the gas tank. I replaced the relay with a paper clip, but that did not change the problem.
I've also tried starting the car with the MAF unplugged, but that did not change anything. And I check compression. The compression did not look good, but it didn't seem so low to keep the car from starting (cyl 1: 60psi, cyl 2: 50psi, cyl 3: 70psi, cyl 4: 120 psi, cyl 5: 90psi). I suppose that this indicates some sort of other problem, but that it is not the reason the car won't start. Does that sound right? Or do you think that maybe the low compression is preventing the car from starting?
Is it safe to assume that the fuel pump is probably the main problem? Are there any other possibilities?
What other problems could the car have that might cause the low compression? I thought perhaps it was the head gasket, but there is no oil in the coolant, and I drained the oil and did not see any coolant in the oil. Any suggestions?
Other info: I changed the timing belt and water pump about 3 months ago. I'm pretty sure the PCV system needs work, but I haven't done it yet (oil underneath spark plug cover). The oil dipstick looks nasty (foamy), which I thought might also indicate a head gasket, but the oil came out clean, so I assume it is condensation. The car has about 160000 miles. Just charged the battery today.
Neither of your codes will cause a no start condition. The little to no fuel pressure, of course, will cause the no start problem and there really isn't a code for no or fuel pressure other than misfire codes if things start to fail gradually. Fuel pumps rarely fail gradually.
On trick that might help the diagnosis is to give the fuel tank a big smack with a baseball bat. That will sometimes revive the fuel pump for a short period of time. If it starts after the baseball bat trick then you are looking at a new fuel pump.
On the FWD versions it is quite easy to change the pump or even just change the insert. Walbro has always been a good source for the inserts but there have been a bunch of counterfeit Walbro pumps that have shown up on the market that don't have the same quality as the genuine article. Beyond that you get into the more expensive Bosch inserts or the really cheap Chinese pumps. Volvo doesn't sell just the insert through their parts department, just the entire assembly which is expensive.
'94 850 N/A '96 850 N/A '96 Platinum Edition Turbo '98 S70 T5 '99 V70XC - RIP Killed by a drunk driver. '99 V70XC - Nautic Blue Previous: 1989 740 GLT 1986 740 GLT 1972 142 Grand Luxe
1998 S70 GLT 2.4L Turbo FWD I'm having somewhat of a similar problem and I am going to post separately because my symptoms are a little different. Mine starts and runs but really rough but only after I have jumpered the relay. Mine won't start at all with the relay but I have low pressure at the fuel rail (35 psi) with the relay installed.
I had a mobile mech. check the cylinders for compression, as well as check that fuel psi which gave me the 35 psi reading. But I no longer have access to the Fuel pressure test gauge (thinking about rigging one up my self since they are pricey to buy one. Maybe rent too but would like to have one for the future.) Don't know what psi I have with the relay jumpered.
The thing that I don't know is whether or not the new relay will fully restore the psi that I need and until I either rent, buy, or make a fuel pressure test gauge, I can't figure out if this jumpered relay is giving me the full psi. (Still runs rough)
I am hoping a new relay will solve the whole problem but while waiting on it to arrive in the mail I was not fully convinced so I am still digging also. Hope my conjecture at least provides some value or insight. Good luck and TTYS
Thanks for the info. Let me know if you figure out how to rig up a fuel pressure gauge. I thought about trying to use a tire pressure gauge just to see what reading it might give, though I doubt it would be accurate. But I don't want to ruin the tire pressure gauge that I have on hand. If the bat doesn't work, then I might come back to that idea just to see.