My 2004 S80 recently started making this rubber squeaky sound 3 out of 5 times when I drive it.
Once the noise starts, it can heard while the car is in motion. I asked my wife to turn the steering wheel while the car was parked and I was outside looking, the sound was coming from front passenger wheel area.
I heard the noise when the steering wheel is turning, doesn't matter to which side it turns, but I am certain the noise is coming from front passenger wheel area. It will also make the noise when I press down on the front passenger side wheel area too.
From your description - especially the pushing part - I'd start with the strut assembly, top mount. Before that though, I'd look at the sway bar bushing(s) for cracked rubber. Back to the strut - you'll need a spring compressor to take apart and examine the parts. While in there, look at the condition of the control arms bushings, sway bar links, etc. Any cracks, creases in the rubber will call for new parts.
2005 Volvo S60 2.5T, low miles 2012 Honda Accord, even lower miles
I have a 2001 S80, I have had that same squeaking noise for a couple months now, just looked yesterday and found out that the top strut mounting assemblies are bad,there are 2 pieces that make up this mount, mine the shaft of the strut pokes into the engine compartment when i push down on the front end, you can see this real easy with the hood open, with a 188,000 miles on this car i am opting to go with a used strut assembly and replace it myself, saving me $150.00.
spring seats (rubber bushing on top of spring) eventually fail in all Volvos of this vintage, and cause an annoying squeak when you hit a bump.: diagnose by turning top of strut under the hood. Normally you can't, use a wrench on the top nut or just your hand on the disc. If it turns, the seat is shot (compare each side, unless both are shot). You can buy a pair of new strut bushings on ebay for cheap. Replacement involves removing strut, then disassembling it and having a shop rebuild it with new bushing, or do yourself with a spring compressor (a dangerous exercise, so be very careful lest you kill yourself, lose and eye, etc.). It is absolutely imperative that the spring be sufficiently compressed when rebuilding the strut so that the cross nut does not damage the bushing when installed. If the existing shock was leaking, then replace in pairs with Monroe's (about $65@ and will last 100k miles). Use a Torx drive to hold shock while tightening nuts, and loctite on the two bolts holding steering knuckle. If the sway bar links are worn, replace them using e-bay, again using a torx drive to hold studs while tightening nut. Not all that hard of a job, but spring compression is fairly dangerous, and perhaps a local shop will do each side for $10-15@.
Postby Jake of Sigourney » Sun Apr 24, 2005 8:34 am Had similiar problem with local shop strut replacement (I live 60 miles from Volvo dealership, and they are at times a bit arrogant) I also had local guy replace spring seats and one soon failed. Not trusting them further, I replaced the next one myself, and found how delicate is the assembly process when tightening the cross nut. You must hold the rod firmly with a torx driver, and not let the rubber portion of the bushing act to stabalize the main rod when tightening.
However, I think the main problem with premature strut bushing failure is that Volvo strut springs are difficult to fully compress when changing the cartidge (measured length should be 11 1/2 in or less when fitted). If not done properly, the spring seat (bushing) will not slide down fully on the rod, and you then damage the rubber when forcibly trying to tighten the cross nut. This is probably what the inexperienced local guy did, and partially tore the rubber.
Hopefully, my "seats will squeak no more" // Jake of Sigourney
Jake of Sigourney New Member New Member
Posts: 17 Joined: Sun Feb 06, 2005 12:48 pm
Re: spring seats broken
Postby dosbricks » Sun Apr 24, 2005 6:29 pm
Jake of Sigourney wrote: If not done properly, the spring seat (bushing) will not slide down fully on the rod, and you then damage the rubber when forcibly trying to tighten the cross nut. This is probably what the inexperienced local guy did, and partially tore the rubber.