Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on S40, V40 and V50. In this forum you'll find S40/V40/V50-specific owners asking and answering questions on maintenance, ownership, repairs, tutorials and almost every do-it-yourself thing you can do to save money owning these Volvos. 1996 - 2004 S40 1996 - 2004 V40 2004 - 2004 V50
I did my inner/outer tie rods on our 2000 v40 1.9t with 80k miles. They were most definitely the originals and taken a beating over the last few months. Passenger side were both bad, diver's side just the outer was bad, with the inner in decent shape. Lamforder brand boots $10 ea. Uro outer tie rod ends $15 each. Uro inners $25 each. If you get Myle outer ends it does not come with the cotter pin whole, rather a locking nut. After reading some online write ups, i decided i could do it and save myself about $400. None of the write ups i read were for V40/S40 specifically. The V40/S40 have some challenges that could cost a home mechanic a whole lot time n money. If there's a good write up then just ignore this one.
Tools you'll need: Hammer Needle nose pliers Metric Socket Set 3/8" Socket Extensions Torque wrench Large Vice Grips 19mm wrench Hook n Pick set Grease 8" long x 1/4" wide zip tie Inner Tie Rod remover tool number: 25296($20 autozone) Wedge fork (optional)--only if your out tie rods are bad already. Lug nut wrench Car jack Jack stands PB blaster fluid 17mm castellated nut small cotter pin
Always protect your hands, eyes and lungs. Safety first!
1. Jack the car part way and break lug nuts while tires still on the ground, but don't loosen. Jack the car up the rest of the way and take lug nuts and wheel off. May need to kick the bottom of the tire to loosen wheel. 2. Put a jack stand under car and jack up the other side repeating the lug nut removal procedure. Put another jack stand on the other side. Shake the car a bit to make sure its secure. I like to use the jack stand as a secondary stand on the side I'm working on. Some of the cheap jack stands out there are not to be trusted. 3. With the wheel off, Spray a little PB blaster on tie rod jam nut and castellated nut on the tie rod end. Use 17mm ratchet to remove the outer tie rod castellated nut and cotter pin. If your outer tie rod rubber is torn, then you can wedge the fork and hammer the end under the tie rod pops out. If you're not replacing the outer tie rod then take a hammer and hit the cast metal that holds it until it pops out. 4. Put the outer tie rod end back into its hole for resistance while you undo the breaker bolt that holds the outer tie rod to the inner tie rod. Put your vice grips tightly on the outer tie rod and use the 19mm wrench to break the lock. 5. Remove outer tie rod end. Make sure you count the revolutions it takes to take the tie rod off, so you can guesstimate the alignment when putting the new parts on. Mine was 16.5 turns. 6. There's a boot that covers the inner tie rod to steering rack connection. Usually they're torn. One of mine were torn and the other tore when I pulled it off. Take the boot fasteners off and remove the boot or remnants of it. Use pliers to pull them off. 7. Inner tie rods are connected to steering rack by a 33mm narrow bolt that's part of the round end of the tie rod. You'll need the inner tie rod remover from Autozone tool (#25296). This is the only inner tie rod tool that will work in removing the old Volvo rods. There's no room for any kind of pipe wrench, vice grips or anything else. The tie rod tools with the long pipe and end fittings will NOT work here. I tried every single one on the market. There's just not enough bolt to latch on to. On other models, there's enough room to get a pipe wrench in, but not on the v40/s40 models. 8. Open the tool and put it around the inner tie rod. There's a large protruding washer that helps hold the inner tie rod to the steering rack. Make sure your tool is bumping up against this washer but not around it. When tightening the bolts on the tool, leave yourself and inch or two to be able to turn the tool with the ratchet. Once you tighten the tool around the rod, use your 3/8" ratchet extension to turn the tool. Remove inner tie rod. 9. Clean the area thoroughly. Make sure your parts match. They are not going to be exact, but length and thickness are important here. Notice the new tie rod end has more room for the pipe style tie rod tools to latch onto. You could use the pipe style tools to install since its a little quicker. I used the same tool in installing. 10. Remove nut and Install the new inner tie rod end with steering rack washer. Put some thread locker on the end if you wish. 11. Make sure your boot in the right length. You can put some grease the inside of the boot. The end that goes on the steering rack may look slightly smaller compared to the old boot. It has to be stretched around the steering rack. This could take hours if you don't have a hook tool. Put the boot on until the small end fall into its slot on the rod. Get under the car. Latch part of the boot onto the rack and hold it there, while putting forward pressure on the boot. With other hand use hook tool to slowly work around the boot. Notice the threading on the boot's end. You can push and turn the boot if that helps you. My wife helped me in this step by helping push the boot. With the hook it took 10 min after struggling for over an hour without it. 12. Use one zip tie to tie the big end of the boot down nice and tight. I did not have enough room to use the metal clamp that came with boot. You can easily use the metal clamp for the small end. 13. Put nut back on inner rod. take new outer tie rod end and thread onto the inner rod. Make sure you count your revolutions when putting back. Again mine was 16.5. This will give you enough of a straight ride so you can get the car aligned. DO NOT drive it like that more than a few miles. With the outer tie rod end in its hole, use vice grips and 19mm wrench to tighten jam nut against it. 14. Install new castellated nut on the outer tie rod end and tighten(some new tie rod ends come with a lock nut instead). Install new cotter pin and you're done. 15. Put wheels back on flush with wheel hub, tighten lug nuts a little. Jack up car and remove jack stand from one side. Lower car and tighten lug nuts to spec. repeat on other side. DONE!!! 16. Get front end alignment ASAP. About $50-100. Mine was $59.95.
Total bill: Tie rod ends: $21 Inner tie rods: $50 Boots: $20 Inner tie rod tool: $20 Alignment: $59.95 Total: $170.95 Dealership: $600 Indy Shop: $520 Saved: $340. With the proper tools, it shouldn't take longer than 2.5 hours to do each side. Pictures to follow.
Good luck folks. I hope this save someone a few hours of frustration and maybe some $$.
Update on this write up: --Passenger side update: When replacing steering rack boot or inner tie rods, you will have an encounter with a small heat shield while trying to take the boot off the steering rack. This thing clamps onto the steering rack in two places with one 10mm bold holding it in place on the rack. There's very little room to maneuver this thing out. Took me about 30 min to get it out. Putting it back, well that's another story . Took over an hour and i ended up removing one of the clamps seems plenty sturdy. I'm guessing they put this thing on with the steering rack in the factory. There's a bigger heat shield sitting on top of this little PITA. You have to take that off first. Takes about 2 minutes. Three 10mm bolts and done. Expect to spend at least an hour on the little shield.
Just did this, unfortunately AFTER finding your post and reading about the proper tool... paid for a loaner set of the long tube with slip over ends before. Not that I'm not getting my money back from that, just kinda a pain in the butt and frustrating until realizing its not going to work and coming here. On mine had an extremely difficult time trying to get the back end of the boot off, ended up cutting in half and on the re-install taking and pushing the one half inside the other with a little bit of adhesive to seal the halves back together. Seems to serve the purpose of sealing dust/debris out of the area just as well without quite as much of a headache. One helpful note, if you have long enough extension(s) for your ratchet, you CAN access the nuts on the tie rod removal tool through the top of the engine compartment, I found this to be much easier than trying to turn a wrench or work a ratchet through the side/around the wheel wells.