Front and rear sway bar link replacement 2001 v70t

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Year and Model: V70 2.4T 2001
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Front and rear sway bar link replacement 2001 v70t

Postby whaleplane » 13 Feb 2011, 04:52

I was told by my local Volvo shop that my front and rear sway bar links had a lot of play in them. Taking their word for I started investigating replacing them. The rear links look pretty straight forward but I can't seem to find anything on the front links.

Is the process the same for both front and back? Do you need to compress the springs for the front links?

Also, I checked the links(IPD,FCP ect) above and it looks like there are about four different sway bar link manufacturers. Is any one better than the other? I tend to get a little weary when the OE is 50+ and an aftermarket option is $14.00.

As always thanks in advance for any advice.

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Year and Model: 2002 V70XC
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Re: Front and rear sway bar link replacement 2001 v70t

Postby billr99 » 13 Feb 2011, 13:23

Both ends of the car are pretty much unbolt and replace. Nothing difficult really. Note that you may need either a torx or allen wrench to hold the stud while turning off the nut. I've seen both so check first so you know what you need if you aren't equipped in the toolbox. As far as manufacturers, I've used both OEM and aftermarket and have to say I don't get a huge amount of difference out of them. The roads are so bad here and with the sea air the fronts usually need changed after about 18 months and the rears maybe 24 months.


'05 XC70 (Lava Sand)-235K kms to-date
'02 V70XC (Ash Gray)-375K kms to-date
And a whole tonne of other Euro stuff (Volvo (8), VW (6), MB (1), Audi (3), BMW (2), SAAB (5), Land Rover (4), Porsche (2), Opel (1), MG (1), Mini (2), Sunbeam (1))

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Year and Model: S60 T5 2002
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Re: Front and rear sway bar link replacement 2001 v70t

Postby endothrow » 21 Feb 2011, 18:45

I just replaced with the cheaper option and I can tell you that the replacement will always be better than what you have on it now (used and worn). I did hear one complaint in another forum that the rubber boot on the cheap one tore, but I would imagine that it could happen to any of them since they all have the same design. Just go with the one that will serve you the best. If you don't like getting in and changing parts, get the IPD HD endlinks. If you don't mind changing them every 3-4 years, get the cheapos.

I could tell a comfort difference after replacing them. The back end doesn't hit bumps nearly as hard and you don't feel as much play in the wheel. This was on the cheap stock design, not HD endlinks.
2002 Volvo S60 T5- K&N, Royal Purple fluids, OBX DP, Iridium Spark

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