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Oil Cooler Hose Replacement

Help and Advice on Volvo's extremely popular car line, powered by Volvo's nearly indestructible, versatile inline 5-cylinder engine.
1992 - 1997 850, 850 R, 850 T5-R, 850 T5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

Re: Oil Cooler Hose Replacement

Postby holler1 » 19 Oct 2011, 13:01

Crotext wrote:Were the O-rings you used Green like OEM or black furnished with the hoses?

Mine were green. I think they came with the hoses, but I also think I ordered some extra. As mentioned, I ruined at least one. I tried to install the hoses without removing the thermostat - Bad idea.
Thanks for the pic. I was lining the brackets up and it did appear that that is the way to
getting it right.
Thanks again.

Welcome, glad to help.
1998 Volvo V70 AWD 165000-R muffler, HD endlinks, boost gauge
2008 Ford Fusion AWD 107000
2000 Ford Ranger 4wd 172000
1991 Toyota Camry 160000#1
Previous: 1982 Volvo DL (240) 160000
1998 Tacoma, Fords (6), Dodge, Montero,
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Re: Oil Cooler Hose Replacement

Postby Crotext » 22 Nov 2011, 18:58

I am done with that job until I can check for leaks. I am starting another thread on a new issue.

I cut notches on the Thermostat side of the anchor brackets and inserted the screw in the block first,
then slipped the brackets on under a washer. Worked well. I also replaced the two screws on the thermostat
housing with #7 metric from ACE hardware. Using a a heavy flex shank screw driver, all three screws were
easily tightened down. Too bad I can't test for leaks yet.
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Re: Oil Cooler Hose Replacement

Postby alschnertz » 27 Nov 2011, 02:29

Has anyone tried bypassing the cooler by cutting the lines and replacing with a piece of fuel line? It was mentioned above.
I would think it can be done, but access to cut the hard lines is tough.
I'd be concerned with metal shavings and dirt getting into the lines when cutting.
My car is hemorrhaging from the crimp area of the hoses. Got to get this fixed, the oil leaks are really making a mess of the driveway. The thermostat end is dry and doesn't appear to be leaking.
Trying to save some money by avoiding purchasing new lines.
'60 PV544, '68 220, '70 145S, '86 745T, '95 854T, '01 S40
'84 Prelude
'10 Mazda3, '06 MPV
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Re: Oil Cooler Hose Replacement

Postby MatDesign84 » 27 Feb 2012, 14:34

Anyone working on this problem and needing to save some money. This guy Orlando does great work at remanufacturing these lines. I purchased mine from him and they look very well put together and he didnt take any cheap short cuts. Plus he will even buy your old ones back from you that would otherwise go in the trash. auctions.volvospeed.com/DISCOUNT-9498-850VSC70-Turbo-Cooler-Lines--3-Money-Saving-Options,name,100046,item_id,0,ad_type,ad_details
Last edited by MatDesign84 on 29 Feb 2012, 02:09, edited 1 time in total.
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Currently: 1997, 855 T5 | 1990 Volvo 240 DL
Previous: 1997, 850 GLT | 1993, 850 GLT | 1988, BMW 325i
"That's good to know though in case they let loose again, but I swear if they do, I'll punch something." -jblackburn
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Re: Oil Cooler Hose Replacement

Postby aahmes57 » 28 Feb 2012, 18:01

SEARCH oil cooler line replacement
Feb 6, 2011 ... I have both oil cooler lines leaking at the metal fitting going into cooler. Has anyone found a kit available with all the O rings,

I THINK IT IS EASIEST TO CONNECT BOTH ENDS AND THEN PUT THE BOLT IN FOR THE BRACKETS
1991 740 (saved a life)
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1995 850
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Re: Oil Cooler Hose Replacement

Postby 1240 » 29 Feb 2012, 00:24

KLS wrote:Thanks for the info.

I think I'll consider using 1/2" I.D. hydraulic hose. I'll reuse the steel ends, strip off the crimp fittings, and put the new hose on with the usual screw clams...or have a local hydraulic hose shop crimp new fittings on. As long as the hose is suitable for oil at the pressure and temperature, it'll work find. Pressure isn't a problem. The temperature rating can be 250°F or 275° or something similar.

The oil filter can be removed without draining the oil. I may take it off if it gives more room.

This is an old thread, but I am new to this forum. I think a little precaution to prevent the assembly from coming apart would be a good idea. If the hose comes off the pipe you will lose oil quickly. Conceder putting a flair on the end of the steel line. The flair would prevent clamp and the hose from sliding off the end of the pipe.
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Re: Oil Cooler Hose Replacement

Postby MatDesign84 » 29 Feb 2012, 02:09

auctions.volvospeed.com/DISCOUNT-9498-850VSC70-Turbo-Cooler-Lines--3-Money-Saving-Options,name,100046,item_id,0,ad_type,ad_detailsOkay I just finished this job and have a tip that will save a lot of time and effort for everyone. I too was having a touch time getting the torx head bolt off at the thermostat and tried everything. I got to thinking of some old advice from dad for a similar situation and voila it worked. I managed to use a 4mm (may have been 6mm) allen wrench to get it off. I also used this method to get it back on again.
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Currently: 1997, 855 T5 | 1990 Volvo 240 DL
Previous: 1997, 850 GLT | 1993, 850 GLT | 1988, BMW 325i
"That's good to know though in case they let loose again, but I swear if they do, I'll punch something." -jblackburn
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Re: Oil Cooler Hose Replacement

Postby robocam » 04 May 2012, 06:09

I just tried to remove the two torx bolts through the wheel well, and I think I may have stripped the inside of the holes. Normally I would use a Dremel to cut slots into the bolt heads and use a standard screwdriver to remove them, but the area is too tight for that. I thought about using a drill bit to drill the heads off, but how do I remove the rest of the screw? I wonder if once the heads are off, if the studs would be easy to remove. Does anyone have any other ideas on how I might get those two bolts out? I hope I won't have trouble with the 4mm bolt holding the lines in. Thanks in advance.
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Re: Oil Cooler Hose Replacement

Postby holler1 » 05 May 2012, 02:03

Maybe a small Ez Out (screw extractor)? What size Torx did you try? I got mine out with a #30.
1998 Volvo V70 AWD 165000-R muffler, HD endlinks, boost gauge
2008 Ford Fusion AWD 107000
2000 Ford Ranger 4wd 172000
1991 Toyota Camry 160000#1
Previous: 1982 Volvo DL (240) 160000
1998 Tacoma, Fords (6), Dodge, Montero,
GTO, Sunbeam Alpine, VW Dasher
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Re: Oil Cooler Hose Replacement

Postby xHeart » 22 Apr 2013, 17:33

robocam wrote:I just tried to remove the two torx bolts through the wheel well, and I think I may have stripped the inside of the holes. Normally I would use a Dremel to cut slots into the bolt heads and use a standard screwdriver to remove them, but the area is too tight for that. I thought about using a drill bit to drill the heads off, but how do I remove the rest of the screw? I wonder if once the heads are off, if the studs would be easy to remove. Does anyone have any other ideas on how I might get those two bolts out? I hope I won't have trouble with the 4mm bolt holding the lines in. Thanks in advance.


Oops...

I had struggled with the two torx screws on thermostat, first timer.
The design was such that the screw did not thread at the hosing cover, just passes through it. And then it would screw into the lower housing. Thanks to Ozark Lee for this info.

I was successful with the 1/4" left-handed-drill-bit, making counter-clockwise rotations to help it pull out at the same time, using oil to lubricate. Choose a bit size wider than the shank.
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Re: Oil Cooler Hose Replacement

Postby jreed » 23 Apr 2013, 10:54

I guess I got lucky when I removed my oil thermostat a couple weeks ago. I used the tool set up shown below.
VolvoOilCoolerLines07.jpg


If it is of use, you can check out the DIY guide I wrote up here:
viewtopic.php?t=56014&p=282639
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1997 855 GLT (Light Pressure Turbo) still going strong. Previous: 1986 240 GL rusted out in '06, 1985 Saab 900T rusted out in '95, 1975 Saab 99 rusted out in '95, 1973 Saab 99 rusted out in '94
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Re: Oil Cooler Hose Replacement

Postby 98T5 » 23 Apr 2013, 14:08

HOw much oil and coolant is lost during this repair. I'm about to order my lines this week and get it done.

thanks.
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Re: Oil Cooler Hose Replacement

Postby holler1 » 23 Apr 2013, 16:07

There should be no coolant loss, and only a little oil coming out, basically oil in the lines. I think most of the oil drains back into the engine when it isn't running.
1998 Volvo V70 AWD 165000-R muffler, HD endlinks, boost gauge
2008 Ford Fusion AWD 107000
2000 Ford Ranger 4wd 172000
1991 Toyota Camry 160000#1
Previous: 1982 Volvo DL (240) 160000
1998 Tacoma, Fords (6), Dodge, Montero,
GTO, Sunbeam Alpine, VW Dasher
---
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Re: Oil Cooler Hose Replacement

Postby jreed » 23 Apr 2013, 22:44

+1 on that! I measured about 1/3 of a liter of engine oil coming out of the thermostat and lines, and there was more still in the lines and more that I wiped up on towels during the job. You won't need more than 1 liter of oil for topping up with at the end, assuming you don't remove the oil filter and drain out all the engine oil.
I would recommend removing the oil filter so you can lower the oil thermostat down and out more easily.
1997 855 GLT (Light Pressure Turbo) still going strong. Previous: 1986 240 GL rusted out in '06, 1985 Saab 900T rusted out in '95, 1975 Saab 99 rusted out in '95, 1973 Saab 99 rusted out in '94
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