Glovebox wont open, Broken Latch >>Fix<<

[Mister-93]

I found awesome great advice on this site. I have one hope it helps someone, let me know.
My glovebox latch broke on my 93 850GLT. The door handle would not unlock the box. I did the hacksaw trick. I used two large thin metal putty knives on either side of the hacksaw to protect the vinyl. Put the saw blade between them and cut thru both sides of the U shaped latch. After cutting thru both sides of the U shaped lock the door was open! The dealer in Ohio wanted to sell me a complete glovebox door, (over 100 bucks)! I had the parts guy pull up the schematics to see how to install it. I noticed the locking mechanism had its own part number. So i purchased a lock/latch mechanism kit and it had the U shaped bar in it that I had to cut in two to get in the box. Cost me about 17 bucks. Take the door off of the dash. Remove the door liner screws and door liner to expose then locking mechanism. >> Pay close attention to how all the gears and levers come out<<<
Reverse install the new hardware. Reinstall the door to the dash.

[dugitman]

I got in and then just used velcro to hold it shut. I didnt care about locking so much. If u use velcro method, scrape felt down to plastic with a razor blade. Velcro seems to hold tighter than the Volvo mechanism and i hate goofing around with itty bitty parts. Getting one of these ($5.00 made by stanley) speeds things up.

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[lightangel]

I did the same thing to my glove box.
the latch is broken at the position where the shear stress is very heavy.
Unfortunately, I can see a pore there, which is a casting defect.
the latch itself is around 40 dollars, so I just bought a used glovebox from Ebay, where I got everything including the pocket.....

[robert213]

I finished a couple of small projects in a weekend in September. I was hoping to show pics of work-in-progress, but I used up my allocation of space on my ISP's server.

Project #1 -- Adding a thin wire to glove box latch

I couldn't find a thin wire, so I used a twisty-tie wire from my box of garbage bags. Like threading a needle while sewing, I ran the twisty-tie wire thru the loop behind the latch pin. I tied each end of the twisty-tie wire in a square knot -- making a small loop. I placed black electrical tape over the small loop keeping it flush with the top of glove box door.

By adding a thin wire (preferably fishing line), a person has an alternate means of releasing the door latch -- a back-up plan, to anticipate that the normal handle will break off at some point in the future.

Project #2 -- Installing deer whistles behind black inserts in front air dam

I bought a nice set of deer warning whistles at Wal-Mart. They are made by Bell Automotive. They are two-piece such that the whistle can be removed and re-attached to its base.
http://www.bellautomotive.com/asp/product_details.asp

I made note of the torx screws fastening the front air dam to the bumper. I drilled out the rear hole of each of deer whistle mounting base to allow for the diameter of torx screw.

I removed and used torx screws to fasten deer whistle mounting bases behind black inserts in front air dam. I removed double-side tape and added a dab of Permatex Black RTV to each mounting base.

I regret that I am not able to provide pics.

[MadeInJapan]

I couldn't view your pictures. I too would like to do this. With winter here, I'm often driving in the dark on the interstate and often see deer along the side of the road...some are living, but some, unfortunately have been hit. I don't want my Volvo to have the same fate.

[matthew1]

Robert, send me pics mattATmatthewsvolvositeDOTcom and I'll host them. Any text you care to also.

[matthew1]

Thanks!

Project #1 -- Making an alternate means to open glove box.

I couldn't find a thin wire (e.g. fishing line), so I used a twisty-tie wire
from my box of garbage bags. Like threading a needle while sewing, I
inserted the twisty-tie wire thru a hole in the latch pin mechanism. I tied
each end of the twisty-tie wire in a square knot -- making a small loop. I
covered the loop wire with black electrical tape, keeping it flush with the
top of glove box door.

By pulling on wire loop, a person has an alternate means of releasing the
door latch -- a back-up plan, to anticipate that the normal handle will
break off at some point in the future.

Project #2 -- Hiding deer whistles behind vents in air dam.

I bought a nice set of deer warning whistles made by Bell Automotive. I
found mine at Wal-Mart. They are two-piece such that the whistle can be
removed and re-attached to its base.

I observed the location of torx screws fastening the front air dam to the
bumper. I drilled out the rear hole of each of deer whistle mounting base to
allow for the diameter of torx screw.

I removed and used torx screws to fasten deer whistle mounting bases behind
black inserts in front air dam. I removed double-side tape and added a dab
of Permatex Black RTV to each mounting base.

[Jake of Sigourney]

1994 850 wagon glove box catch broke, and fixed it in about 2 hours, better than new. Pried door open just enough to slide fine toothed hack saw blade in and cut both sides of wire loop that fits into door latch. Protected viny on dash and door with plastic sheets, although metal sheet or even cardboard would do.

Then door fell open and removed screws holding inner plastic panel, then removed three screws holding latch mechanism. The problem was the pot metal pin that releases the latch had sheared. I removed the silver metal casting and drilled hole in base where original pin attached. Then I screwed in metal screw (self tapping slightly larger than hole (about 1/16 in diameter. or so) to replace broken pin, cut and ground flat end, and and adjusted its length by turning into the now tapped hole. Test fitted the assembly, re-adjusted the screw, then put all together and worked great.

Pulled grey felt lining in glove box, and removed remants of cut wire loop. Made new one from coat hanger wire (slightly smaller than original, but worked fine), and shaped it to match original. Screwed new loop in place, and replaced box liner. Then test fit door to engage loop. Bent loop inward and up until door fit just right, and stayed closed without any rattle.

[robert213]

search keywords: r213faq slater real glove box glovebox repair

http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.ph ... opic=39803
http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.ph ... opic=41450

[quote name='Slater' date='Jan 31 2006, 12:56 PM' post='512703']
OK, making a new steel part to address this problem was not economical, so I detailed the procedure to reinforce the stock part so it will not break. You can also use the same procedure to repair the part after it has already broken.

It's very easy to do - a 2 on a scale from 1 to 10. Total cost $0.99 and is enough to do 4 gloveboxes (or $0.25 to fix my glovebox; however you want to look at it).

Tools/Materials needed:

- Phillips screwdriver
- Dremel
- Cutting and sanding bits for Dremel
- 1/16" drill bit, 3/32" drill bit, 1/8" drill bit
- #6-32 tap
- #6-32x3/8" socket head screw (available at any hardware store)

http://quickbrickmotorsports.com/bay19/ ... /step1.jpg

Step 1. Remove the glovebox door piece that houses the latch mechanism. On the door you just removed, take a look at how all the springs and pins and arms and stuff are laid out and oriented. You'll need to remember when you go to put it back together.

Step 2. Unscrew the brown triangular shaped latch piece in the center.

Step 3. Carefully pry off the small c-clip holding the latch pin to the frame.
http://quickbrickmotorsports.com/bay19/ ... /step2.jpg

Step 4. Remove the latch pin. The small post is what breaks. Mine was not broken, but I was not going to wait around until it did.
http://quickbrickmotorsports.com/bay19/ ... /step3.jpg

Step 5. Using your Dremel, remove the small post using a cutoff disc or wire snips or something. I then sanded what was left of the post down as low as I could go. Don't sand too much because you have to know exactly where the post was to center your drill bit.
http://quickbrickmotorsports.com/bay19/ ... /step4.jpg

Step 6. Drill a small pilot hole in the center of where the small post was using the 1/16" drill bit. Then enlarge the hole using the 3/32" drill bit. Finally, enlarge the hole using the 1/8" drill bit.

Step 7. Carefully tap the hole using the #6-32 tap.
http://quickbrickmotorsports.com/bay19/ ... /step5.jpg

Step 8. Sand a small curved relief into the large head of the latch pin to allow the socket cap screw's head to clear. Then insert the socket cap screw and tighten. A dab of loctite isn't necessary but won't hurt for the extra piece of mind:
http://quickbrickmotorsports.com/bay19/ ... /step6.jpg

Here is what the completed latch pin should look like:
http://quickbrickmotorsports.com/bay19/ ... /step7.jpg

Step 9. Install the completed latch pin back into the frame, replace the c-clip, and finish putting everything back together the way it was taken apart.
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