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AC Clutch Gap Magnetic Fix – Breadclip Alternative

AC Clutch Gap Magnetic Fix

MVS Contributor coflynn comes up with a brilliant and different approach and fix for the AC clutch gap problem, which is commonly fixed with the classic AC bread clip fix. See images from Volvo that show the AC clutch. He came up with an AC clutch gap magnetic fix.

My A/C has been dead for a while, and it was clearly the gap problem. I don’t use the A/C enough to “properly” fix it, and never had luck getting the breadclip fixes to last very long. I couldn’t get zip-ties in as was too lazy to pull back the inner wheel well too.

I finally tried another method to fix it. It’s a bit of a hack which can easily burn out the magnetic clutch, but honestly I’m never going to properly fix the A/C, so would rather have done this, and if it breaks again will give up.

I used a DC-DC converter to increase the voltage being fed into the magnetic clutch. This will increase the strength of the electromagnetic pull-in. I used the following specific device: DROK 150W DC Boost Converter on Amazon. It’s available on Amazon.ca as well.

If you have time you can order from Aliexpress for $4, but I wanted prime shipping so paid the extra fee. The device isn’t really designed for automotive use so it seems likely to burn out from heat. I’d check it occasionally and watch for the capacitors to buldge out, keep an extra 1 or 2 of them on-hand to replace.

This Ain’t All…

Volvo 850 Instrument Cluster Bulbs


MVS Contributor Neil:

The bulbs in the cluster have BLUE bases as opposed to the BLACK bases of the one on the link. They are both listed as different part numbers by Volvo, but both are 1.2W/12V bulbs. FCP has them listed under a different part number and when checked does not include 850 as using it, but when you look up 850 it gives it as an option. Price is cheaper than eEuroparts too assuming it is the same part.

Volvo has these under 3 different part #’s on Vida, but to me they look like the same part. Part #’s: 989000/989805/989806

989000 : shown as fitting the computer LED read out with MPG/etc…., but also used in the front overhead lights. Vida though also shows it in that part number as a push in bulb without the base? Who knows….!!!?? It also lists it as a push in bulb on a Yazaki warning bulb in that cluster.

989805: shown as fitting the warning lights

989806: shown as fitting in the LED readout for LED’s with Clock/temp only

Very confusing if the only difference in an 5/6 bulb is possibly only the base color!

This Ain’t All…

P80 Wagon hatch dimensions

P80 Wagon hatch dimensions

MVS Contributor j-dawg:

I need to load a ton of junk into my car soon, and I couldn’t find any info on the intertubes, so I measured its cargo area dimensions and put them in this picture.

My car has basically no rear cargo options, eg: grocery nets, cargo bay cover, dog cage, third row seats, rear gun emplacement, hyperdrive, etc etc. These things may affect available cargo space.

Please note that these are dimensions at the floor and at the points measured on the door, ie: they are the maximum dimensions. The door tapers as it goes up from the bottom and out from the center, and the car’s cargo area tapers as it goes up from the floor.

I want to fold the front passenger seat as well, but I can’t figure out how to get the headrest out of the front passenger’s seat so it can fold flat. There are supposed to be buttons somewhere in the backrest, but I couldn’t feel them with my thumbs. (I actually had no idea the seat even folded until this week.) Once I’ve got that, I’ll do a similar picture for that area. Any hints as to how to remove the headrest?

This Ain’t All…

Where to Get A Rebuilt Axle

time for A Rebuilt Axle

A surprisingly large part of keeping 850/S70/V70/XC70 and C70 models on the road is… axles. Yes, axles. They’re good for generally (just an educated guess) 120k miles, coming out of the factory. After that, it’s entirely dependent on what kind of rebuilder they went to. Fortunately, replacing axles is pretty simple to do. The biggest pitfall/trap in replacing axles is buying the wrong rebuilt axle. I’ve done this.

I also believe that replacing axles (or “half-shafts”) with the dealer part (“blue box”) is extremely uncommon. Of course the biggest reason for this is cost. Dealer axles are $400+ each, if memory serves.

You’ll know when you need new ones when you hear a clicking from the front of your Volvo when you turn it. It’s probably the easiest diagnosis of any problem on cars, period. If you’re lucky you can catch it very early and simply repack (with grease) the CV joints, and put new CV boots on. Bad axles don’t set codes.

This Ain’t All…

Stage 0 and So Much More… Fix List for a V70


MVS Contributor Sledddriver goes on an multi-month blistering repair & fix odyssey, taking his 1998 V70 T5 from the edge of roadworthiness to 100% functional and reliable… all for not even $1000.  This is Stage 0 and way, way more.

Following up on Tryingbe’s theme [of restoring to 100% a P80 Volvo], here’s a list of sled-work performed over the past eight months. I did all of it myself, except for the alignment. It’s occupied ALL of my free time + badly encroached on lots of other time I usually spend on other tasks like yard work, house maintenance, contract work, woodworking, exercise, social visits, etc.

This Ain’t All…