MVS Volvo Forums member Volvo98T5 is facing the inevitable. His stock radio is kaput and it’s time to replace it. But with what?
In this topic we discuss RCA outputs, factory 4×40 amp, High pass filters, JVC head units, single DIN vs. double DIN.
I’ve enjoyed the 12+ year audio on my ’98 S70 T5. Only the radio plays now-a-days. I just barely can get a clear radio signal/station now that most stations cater to the digital age. It has been a month and I can’t take it anymore. I really need a new radio with media player inputs/outputs.
What does he look for in a new radio for his Volvo?
I had issue with my 1999 V70 where I lost key. Nightmare began involving having car towed to dealer. 1st dealer had a serious attitude and wanted me to buy a new key from his parts department and wouldn’t use a new key I had which wasn’t programmed but I kept it to lock/unlock doors in emergency issues. Had to tow car to another dealer who did accept my key but couldn’t program it saying that it was defective. The next day. Day 2 without transportation I had to buy new key from them. Also, I had to get new fob programmed because when they program new keys remotes have to be programmed as well. After $687 later I still have only one working ignition key and 1 remote.
MVS Forums member bguzz describes what he did to service his Volvo XC90′s transmission:
I just did mine on my 2008 3.2. It has the same trans as yours…the Aisin TF-80SC. At 64K, the fluid was dark as used engine oil…it needed it. It has no dipstick, so you need to be careful how you do it. I had a couple of S70′s and always did the fluid transfer/flush via the oil cooler line…so simple.
Wait. What? No dipstick?
With the XC90, I chose to just flush it out with the internal pump pushing it instead of draining the pan AND using the DIY flush method. The way I did it was to use 2 empty water jugs, a digital scale, and a 5/8″ OD vinyl hose. I would weigh exactly what came out after starting the engine and then getting the bubbles, then weigh the exact same amount to pour back in. You don’t have to worry about fluid expansion and temperature this way, as weight is always the same. Just make sure the line is a tight fit into the oil cooler (not the line that fits into the cooler like on the S70 method) and you should be fine with no leaks.
Thoughtful, Careful Maintenance = Long Life
I thought that at 64K I might be over doing it with changing the transmission fluid as the car shifted beautifully, turns out it now shifts even smoother…a nice surprise.
ISSUE: Need for parking brake system inspection. OEM components are prone to various degrees of failure due to age, exposure to elements, and heat which could affect drive-ability and control.
CONSEQUENCES: One or both rear wheels could lock up immobilizing vehicle when parked, or causing loss of control if it occurs while moving.
RECOMMENDATION: Perform simple “adjuster,” “drag,” and “visual” inspections via OEM tool kit and jack. Plan for inspection of rear (parking) brake shoes as part of next preventative maintenance. Add system inspection to appropriate service interval and any rear wheel service (e.g. brakes, bearings, tires, pads, brake fluid flush, etc.).
Parking Brake Tips/Tricks is also a parking brake fix and restoration, written by the MVS Forums supercontributor CN90.
We get many questions in the MVS Volvo Forums regarding Volvo’s AWD system. Longtime forum contributor Jimmy manages to write almost everything an owner (looking for an AWD system overview) would want to know. Jimmy’s explanations cover the first three Haldex generations specifically. . Here are his words, edited and formed into a summary:
Generation 1 AWD System
Volvo model years: everything up to 2000
This is the 850 platform is the delicate one. [...] On the viscous system Volvo used: It was a good system and if the tires were rotated and no odd tires ended up in the mix it gave good service. Age on the VC has introduced some problems and baked grease in the front CV joint and middle support bearing failures are the service issues with age. And the splined connector sleeve wearing. [...] On the viscous coupling system Volvo used: It was a good system and if the tires were rotated and no odd tires ended up in the mix it gave good service. Age on the VC has introduced some problems and baked grease in the front CV joint and middle support bearing failures are the service issues with age. And the splined connector sleeve wearing.
Generation 2 AWD System
Volvo model years: 2001-2002
It’s less delicate but still needs care. [...] VC’s on the P2 models seemed to have been very low trouble and so far I’m not aware of those getting vibrations and other VC issues. I also do not see the VC on those sling out oil from midsection of the VC.
Generation 3+ AWD System
Volvo model years: 2003+ and 2002 S60 AWD
All [Generation 3+ AWD System] are very low in problems other than a pressure/temp sensor that has been updated. The latest [AWD system] sheds the mechanical pump altogether and uses a high pressure electrical pump so it is lighter and simpler. [...] The 2002 S60 AWD and all 2003 and later use a hydraulic clutch system made by Haldex/Borg-Warner. There are 4 versions through today.
Very recently the MVS Volvo Forums have gotten questions on how to value 850 Rs. Insurance companies and “blue books” are decidedly unhelpful on this topic because the 1990s R cars are outliers — meaning the number of the R cars produced is too low to generate good data. Plus these cars are special to Volvo enthusiasts, and therefore carry valuations that aren’t easily calculated. Anyway, here are the forum posts:
Reason I ask is because I recently totaled mine after an old man decided to turn in front of me in an intersection. Progressive only offered me 2800 for it and I’m waiting on their second valuation. I’m also contemplating whether or not I should go the appraisal route for proper valuation.
Nada says clean retail is 3675, I’m thinking about $2500, too high? too low?
Thanks for any advice.
MVS Forums member Joe P asks the age-old question: what type of brake pads should I get for my Volvo?
I’m going to do the pads on my 850, are OEM the best for minimal noise? $75 and $40 for OEM from FCP, or are Raybestos, Beck Arnley , as good? The difference is about $40 vs OEM.
Parts quality as a topic has never been a stranger to MVS Forums. In fact, I’d put it up against any other subject in terms of the levels of emotion and sheer number of posts it generates.
This fine example of aftermarket parts inequality caught my eye last night because it’s so stark. I’m no metalsmith to see the difference in weld and material quality between the DNA Motoring exhaust manifold and one that was made in Estonia.
Thanks to MVS Forums member xHeart for posting the two photos showing the differences.
MVS Volvo Forums user j-dawg has a problem. I’ll let him tell it:
About to drive ~8hrs tomorrow. I just checked the car after it sat for ~1wk and noticed a puddle on the ground. Photos of wetness are attached. The puddle is oily and slightly red, and does not smell strongly. The picture with two napkins shows on the left a few drops of PS fluid from the reservoir, and on the right a swipe from the ground.