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Volvo 240 Classic

My friend’s Volvo 240 Classic here in Denver – a few photos for you to enjoy. This 240 is dressed in Ruby Red, and is #420 of 1600.




Between 1966 and 1993, Volvo’s bread-and-butter car was the stolid, safe and reliable 1966-74 140 Series and updated 1975-93 240 Series. Available in two-door sedan (through 1985), four-door sedan, and station wagon variants, they found favor with buyers wanting “a car to believe in” as Volvo’s tag line stated in the ’80s. But all good things must come to an end, and the new front wheel drive 850 was in line to replace the venerable 240. But not before one last fling.

Volvo knew that the 240 was much-loved, and to celebrate the car’s life from 1975-93, a final-edition Classic model was introduced. Available only in April and March of 1993, the Classic was very well equipped, and added niceties such as lacy-spoke alloys, wood trim on the instrument panel, color-keyed side-view mirrors and grille, and a color palette limited to Ruby Red or Dark Teal Green.

The special model was available in either sedan or wagon form, and only 1600 were available–the last 1600 Volvo 240s imported to North America. It truly was the end of an era. I was thirteen when this announcement was made, and it was like losing an old friend.

text courtesy Curbside Classic

Tags 240 Classic, Ruby Red, Volvo 240
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Codes from the ECU without the dataconnector thingy?


MVS Volvo Forums member -wj- has a 1996 Volvo 850 and needs to read the codes. “Can I get the ecu codes from the ecu without the normal dataconnector thingy? As in, can I connect a led/12v bulb to 2 pins on the ecu, and get the codes? edit: I’ts the motronic 4.3 one by the way.”

If you’re needing more information on how to read codes on your Volvo, see our Volvo Codes page.

MVS Contributor esl_97_850_T5 knocks it out of the park with his instructions on how to solve this.

The OBDII port pin 3 goes to Motronic 4.3 pin 5 for both USA/Canada ’97 850 and EU/Overseas ’97 850
(so probably does for ’96 also). See “On-board diagnostic system (OBD system)” diagram in:

1997 850 wiring diagrams

OBDII port pin 7 goes to Motronic 4.3 pin 36 for the ’96-’98 850 and S70/V70/C70/XC70 (for USA), which probably means for ’95-’97 850/S70/V70/C70/XC70 (for Europe and most anywhere else). OBDII port pin 7 is also what talks the keyword D3 B0 protocol (what I call KWPD3B0) to communicate with Motronic 4.4, COMBI, SRS, ABS, AW 50-42 (for gas auto transmission), Power Seats, ECC (for the first year S70/V70/C70/XC70, but not for 850 since 850 requires a flashing LED tool for ECC), and other ECUs which Vol-FCR shows for the 850/S70/C70/V70/XC70 in that time frame. See:

1997 850 wiring diagrams
rkam’s “1664-Diagnose-and-communication” thread

If you’re going to try using the flashing LED method, you might also check the several flashing LED examples mentioned in the following link, since at least one of them describes how to eliminate the separate 1800 ohm resistor which is displayed on your 2014-07-17 post‘s diagram:

volvo_850_diag_links.html flashing LED tool links

Codes from the ECU without the dataconnector thingy?

Tags code readers, codes, data link, ELM327, flashing LED method, Motronic 4.3, OBD-II, OBD2, read codes, Vol-FCR, Volvo 850 codes
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XeMODeX is a MVS Sponsor!


We’re proud to announce XeMODeX is partnering with this site to bring all of us information and Volvo troubleshooting solutions.

XeMODeX cut its teeth developing and marketing a fix for Volvo’s ETM fiasco with their in-house developed contact-less potentiometer ETM.

This announcement means XeMODeX’s ad appears at the top of MVS pages. Please let them know MVS sent you!

In addition to that, we have an Ask XeMODeX forum monitored by XeMODeX techs Matt, Chris and Tony. Very cool.

Tags ABS module, diagnostic software, DIM, ETM, modules, xemodex
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Fix a Rusted Exhaust on a Volvo


Need to fix a rusted exhaust on a Volvo? MVS contributor xHeart documents fixing his rusted, broken, leaking exhaust on his Volvo. This saga included a Class A fiasco on the part of Parts Geek shipping mislabeled and dented exhaust, then shipping an exhaust for a completely different Volvo. What a mess.

The two ends of exhaust muffler are deteriorating. The tail was repaired by inserting a foot long pipe and putting clamp to keep it in place.

Below is a photo of where muffler meets the CAT. There are two clamps over 3-4in adapter connecting the two. The adapter is visibly rusted and it has 1″ of open hole, hence I ask:

1) Was the muffler short, so to make up the adapter help it reach the CAT?
2) Is the CAT short, trimmed off for…?
3) If replacing muffler what make and size would work best?
4) Step for undoing the two clamps and then removing the adapter?

Nonetheless, the coupler inside the exhaust is stubborn. I have separated the exhaust lip from the coupler layer to see if there is a weld getting in the way from sliding out.

Few photos of progress. I will files the exhaust lip before installing new coupler. Any pointer for removing the coupler?

MVS moderator and generous Volvo help dispenser gives his experience:

I replaced a Bosal on my son’s car. The pipes were pristine but the muffler itself had rotted in half and the hanger arms rusted off of the body. The back pipe can be repaired with a chunk of tailpipe, a coupler, and a couple of clamps. eEuroparts has a tailpipe hanger that is real easy to install and it is cheap, around $8.00.

On my son’s car I had to replace things in pieces. The Pick-n-Pull car that I bought the used parts from had the car about two feet off the ground but that wasn’t enough clearance to get everything out without cutting off the tailpipe about 1/3 of the way back on the straight section.

The pipe diameters will vary depending on what kind of muffler you have now. I left the Bosal pipe from the joint between the catalytic converter to the muffler but it was a larger diameter than the stock pipe so I used an adapter coupler.

Fix a Rusted Exhaust on a Volvo

Tags Bosal exhaust, exhaust leak, exhaust system joint sealant, Parts Geek, replacement exhaust, Starla exhaust, VersaChem, Volvo exhaust, Walker exhaust
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Should You Buy a 1998 V70 R with High Mileage?


Should You Buy a 1998 V70 R with High Mileage? Longtime MVS member and Volvo guru precopster asked, and answered, this very question. Note this car needed a good deal of engine work.

Bottom line is $2,000 asking price for a car with 380k kilometres and a head that’s been removed with bent valves. Looks straight in photos but has NO Turbo.

So far seller has been answering questions but is not the owner (local indie repairer that is selling the car)
New brakes, radiator and intercooler. AWD system is working. That’s all I know. I feel that I can negotiate a little on price to $1,500 or $1,600.


Wrangled a deal with the seller. He threw in a good 16T turbo and lowered the price to $1,500. Looks like my spare 20V head with 70K miles will bolt up with the VVIS manifold (with short intake runners chosen) or I can swap the valves out of my head into the R head.

The bores look really good with zero lip and little damage from the clashing valves on the piston tops.

The body is very straight and interior/door panels are very good but I DO have some work ahead of me. My first performance car ever!!

Should You Buy a 1998 V70 R with High Mileage?

Tags 1998 V70 R, AWD, Buyer's Guide, engine build, how much is this Volvo worth?, Nivomat struts, P80, Stage 0, V70 R, Volvo R cars
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