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MatthewsVolvoSite is the home of the Volvo Repair Database, and an active Volvo forum, and Fast Friday — a tuning/mod resource. We welcome your participation and questions!

2007-2011 Used C70 What Do I Look For?

Used 2009 C70


Considering a “newer” used C70 retractable hardtop, probably a 2009 or later. Were there any particular years to stay away from? Retractable top issues that are expensive? I’m seeing nice used ones for $20k-$25k. Thank you.


Look for the service records in the documentation in the glove box. If there is not any walk away or offer a lowball price (especially if it was serviced by anybody who was not a Volvo specialist – i.e. jiffy lube). Any Volvo that has been properly serviced should last 200K without any too much trouble. Every model does have its quirks but they are usually easy fixes. The 2010+ engines (maybe earlier) have coil on spark plug and that could be a blessing or a curse. Matthew has a great repository here on 90’s and early 2000’s but anything less than 10 years old has little or no documentation but his database is growing. I had a ’96 850 that ran for 15 years and 185K miles until it was killed by a Ford LTD that ran a light.

07-11 c70 what do I look for?

Categories Buyer's Guide Volvo C70
Tags Buyer's Guide, buying a C70, retractable hardtop
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Spark Plug Wars


In theatres now. Please bring weapons.

Spark Plug Wars

Tags copper spark plugs, recommended spark plug, Spark Plugs
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Which XC90 To Buy?

Which XC90 To Buy?
Ever wonder which 2006+ XC90 to buy… inline 3.2 6-cylinder or V8? We break it down with input from owners.


haven`t been on the site in a while but now that my trusted manual 2004 v70 t5 had a close encounter with the rear bumper of a tractor trailer combination I am in the market for a new (used) Volvo.

More specifically we are looking at a XC90, starting in 2006 but preferably 2007. Could probably go up to a 2009. My questions are the following

  1. Which engine to get or which engine to AVOID
  2. Do these engine have a “timing belt” or similar issue
  3. What is this I keep seeing about transmission fluid flushing/changing. Will this keep problems at bay and is that an expensive operation?
  4. Trimlevels, are they easily identified.Is the dvd system worthwhile?
  5. Does having the 3rd row seats reduce the legroom for 2nd row pax? We would like a 7 seater but not if it cuts 2nd row legroom.


  1. For 2006+, there are no engines to avoid. In North America, you either have the 3.2 I-6 or the 4.4 V8. Both are very reputable (but avoid 2005 V8’s). Look for service records and regular oil changes, of course.
  2. No, these engines use timing chains, not belts.
  3. Most around here will recommend a transmissions fluid flush every 20-30k to prolong transmission life. At a dealer or independent shop, this is $200 well spent. Or do it yourself for $70 worth of fluid.
  4. You can either go “base” or “Sport/R-Design” or “Executive” depending on what you want. V8 models tend to be more loaded than others. The DVD option (Rear Seat Entertainment package, or RSE) is worthwhile if you have kids and not enough iPads to go around. Lots of other cool options out there too, such as BLIS, massaging seats, Nav (skip it), climate package, parking sensors, active bending xenons, and even a fridge (very rare)!
  5. I believe all 2006+ in North America will have the 3rd row seats, but I could be mistaken. Either way, they don’t affect 2nd row legroom. The 2nd row slides fore/aft.

2006+ XC90 Which one

Tags 3.2 inline 6, Buyer's Guide, buying a XC90, R-Design, XC90 ownership, XC90 V8
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Body: Curvy


Categories Volvo Humor
Tags body curvy
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Energy Suspension Anti-Sway Bar Bushings


Sway bar bushings groaning and creaking? Here’s an elegant solution: Energy Suspension Anti-Sway Bar Bushings. Neil (scot850) dives into the (very small) world of greasable sway bar bushings, sharing with us what he bought and why he bought it.

Background & Initial Observations

Some time ago I recall someone here telling me that IPD bushings for their anti-sway bar bushings were fine, and that using Energy Suspension bushings with a grease nipple was pointless as the nipple could not be accessed after installation.

As I am killing time waiting for delayed parts to complete the rear end re-build, I decided to finally get around to swapping out the IPD anti-sway bar bushings on the front bar.

I will not say for sure that these are the cause of the graunching/groaning I get from the front suspension, but after reading elsewhere that the fix was to use Energy suspension 1″ greasable bushings I decided to give them a shot. Having already re-grease the ‘New’ IPD bushings multiple times (requires removing them and they suggest to do this every 6 months) I never got more than 200km before the noise returned.

Well, I have now replaced them with Energy Suspension items, but will have to wait to see it there is an improvement.

What I did find was that like the back bar, the bushings are fitted over powder coating, which rubs off and then allows the bar to rust under the bushings. What I thought was a knurled finish was actually rust. I have now cleaned this off and put the new bushings in.

Buy Energy Suspension products on Amazon

2000 V70R – IPD/Energy Suspension anti-sway bar bushings

Tags Energy Suspension, greasable bushings, sway bar bushings, sway bars
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