This passenger side bushing is still ok.
Good vs. bad.
Renown MVS Volvo Forums Contributor Erik gives us his thoughts on how to approach costly repairs (even if DIY) on old cars — where the cost of the parts approaches or exceeds the car’s value.
xHeart is giving great advice IMHO. Here is how I would prioritize and group the work. To spend this kind of money on the car you have to be thinking you will keep it for a while. For a 1994 car with 140k, this is reasonable.
(1) Timing belt job (if this stuff craps out, the car is worthless): both rollers, timing belt, timing belt tensioner. See above for brands. Since it sounds like we need to consider total $ right now, let the water pump go but know that there is a chance it could start leaking. 140k is low miles though, for a factory pump. I would let it go and put it on the list for 210k. Don’t wait for the 5k more miles and hitting exactly the 140k interval, just do this job and cross it off the list.
MVS Volvo Forums contributor Jimmy57 explains what’s what with the light switch in XC60s.
“0″ is off and if the selection on Sensus screen in not ticked off for daytime running lights then everything will be off.
“Auto” gives you automatic headlamp dimming when selected but on each key cycle you have to click lever to go to high beams for this feature to be effective again. It defaults off when you turn ignition off (like rain sensor wiper feature).
I’ve done two full tanks comparing mileage from trip odometer/math vs. the MPG computer. It’s accurate to within a decimal place.
Volvo Forum user Dempsy explains how he tracked down the source of an annoying ABS light:
“I have been chasing my traction control light around for months checking bearings, wiring, sensors, abs module…….etc
So I called the company that I bought my abs module off and the first thing he said was to check the stater ring on the axle to see if it has a small crack. So I took the abs sensor out of the hub of the front wheel and turned the axle so I could check each tooth for a crack and sure enough the ring had completely broke and was hitting the sensor, so I replaced the whole axle and there you have it. Problem solved! I hope this saves anyone the stress of chasing this down.
My abs module would click when I turned so it was coming on and off trying to work but there was no wheel spin.”
Forum Contributor Power Jets shows us how to re-attach the fuel tank vent hose in a Volvo 850 WITHOUT dropping the tank.
I’ve read excellent posts on diagnosing fuel tank vent line leaks (gas smell if you fill beyond 14 gallons). My case was typical, and having removed the fuel pump and fuel sensor plates in the trunk, with eyeball very close to the deck I confirmed that there was indeed a crack at the fuel tank end of the vent hose just where it meets the blue tank connector.
MVS Forums guru zacharyzoosh shows us how to do S80 T6 cam seals, timing belt and PCV:
“Hello. I’m here to share a recent repair I’ve finished on a 1999 Volvo S80 T6 (2.8 liter turbo automatic dual over head cam VR6) This is applicable to all P2 Volvos generally, as the repair here is the CAM SEAL Replacement, with an overview on checking the PCV Air System (Positive Crank Ventilation). Subsequent years of other Volvos should be relatively similar.
If you have one of those bad Volvo oil leaks where oil is smattered all over the top of the engine in puddlse around the coil packs, and all in and around the timing belt and accessories, then most likely you need to replace the Camshaft seals, and also you most likely have a PCV problem. Cam Seals usually blow because of positive pressure in the upper crank case. This only happens if the PCV air system isn’t working properly. I recommend also checking/replacing your timing belt, crank seal, rear cam seals/covers as well as: Waterpump, pulleys, accessories and serpentine belt as these parts will all be accessed throughout this process.”
Motronic 4.4 was first available in US model 850s in 1996.
1996 turbo: All are 4.3
1996 NA: some are 4.3, some are 4.4
1997 turbo: some are 4.3, some are 4.4
1997 NA: some are 4.3, most are 4.4
1998 turbo and NA: all are 4.4
For any Volvo 850, the easy way to figure it out is to check the VIN:
Readers please note this works only for cars in the US, and cars with the original radio.