Member Instarx wrote this in response to the Volvo Forum thread Buying a Used Volvo V70, and I must say I agree 100%.

If low operating expense is as big an issue as you imply, be aware that Volvos are expensive to repair when they break. They are borderline luxury cars and just like Mercedes, BMW, etc. it is simply more expensive to have them worked on. For example, micro-sized lightbulbs for dash lights cost $9 at a Volvo dealer while the exact same bulb at a Honda dealer is $2.60. That’s a trivial example but you get the idea. Since you can’t do your own work you will always be paying premium prices for replacement parts.

I have owned many different cars and although I love my current Volvo I do not expect it to be the most trouble-free car I have ever owned. It may be heresy on this Volvo board, but for reliability and trouble-free use, you may want to look at a used Honda or Toyota. I had a Honda Accord that went 87,000 miles without one single thing going wrong with it - not one thing! I doubt many Volvo owners can say the same.

Also be aware that if you get a Volvo with a turbo you should probably use premium fuel - a significant added expense with regular fuel approaching $4/gallon.

Volvos are not for everyone; a round peg does not fit in a square hole. For poor students and those who must have an operating vehicle every morning, bar none, buy new (anything) or buy a Honda (or Toyota). But those who buy, say, a 1997 Accord over a 1997 850 must remember they’re giving up a degree of safety for the promise of improved reliability and somewhat lower operating costs (maintenance + repairs + fuel and other consumables).

It’s a value decision, just like the other ten thousand value decisions we’re faced with in life.

Here are the numbers:

6.144 gallons 164054 miles $3.509 /gal La Plata, MD 4:05pm

10.506 gallons 164298 miles $3.599 /gal Morgantown, WV 7:46pm 23.1 MPG (volvo tripcomp.)

7.030 gallons 164471 miles $3.460 /gal Nitro, WV 11:04pm

15.470 gallons 164808 miles $3.399 /gal Haubstadt, IN 3:17am 23.3 MPG (volvo tripcomp.)

11.293gallons 165092 miles $3.399 /gal Columbia, MO 8:18 am

8.085 gallons 165285 miles $3.339 /gal Topeka, KS 11:38am 23.8 MPG (volvo tripcomp.)

Manhattan, KS 165338 miles = 1305 trip miles (first fill up was 20.2 miles in] 12:20pm

total fuel: 58.558

personalized PCV system about $20.00

fuel cost: $201.68

cost of my 98 s70 T-5: $1500.00

Driving a T-5 half way across the country in approx. 21 hours without a ticket or incident….

Priceless

(couldn’t resist….)

Well - I changed the oil yesterday evening, clearing out the Seafoam and “flushing” the system with some dino-oil. ‘Flushing’ because it’s to be changed in 2 or so short weeks when I have the PCV system from FPC Groton.

While under the car I noticed a problem I had missed in a hurried inspection back east…. the radiator was only mounted on one end, somehow the bolts washer that rests against the metal spacer in the mounting bracket was undersized and had passed thru. Man that would been catastrophic had the other mount broke loose. Also the big tube into/outta(?)(bottom of ic - drivers side) the intercooler had a nice divot in it and a resulting hairline split… pressurized systems love leaks… I can only guess as to the cause, there was no “crash” damage anywhere around. Needless to say both were fixed (the hose temporarily - gotta love duct tape and zipties!!) and no other issues were spotted as I examined the underside more carefully.

I painted the grill first thing too, took it apart, cleaned it and threw 7 - 8 coats of Kyrlon Fusion I had lying around on it.

Overview: How to change the distributor cap and rotor on a 1997 Volvo 850 GLT.

This job requires removal of the battery and then the bottom half of the air filter box in order to reach the bottom screw on the distributor cap. Including taking the photos, the whole job of removal and replacement took 2 hours (first time).

1) Common tools: a standard screwdriver for the distributor cap screws and a wrench or socket to disconnect the battery terminals.

Less common tools: You will need a 3mm hex key (pictured below left) for the rotor and a slim ratcheting driver with Torx bit (pictured below right) for the vacuum switch.

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