MVS Forums member abdomar528 documented this Volvo S80 turbo swap with many good photos to illustrate the steps he took during his outstanding 2001 S80 T6 Turbo Replacement DIY. Here’s an example of what abdomar wrote for Step 15:
“BEFORE placing the oil return line seals back into position, you want to use some silicone to stick the gasket into place. Let it dry so that it does not budge. You will not be able to see anything happening while you put the drivers side line into place. You can only feel whats going on down there. When doing the drivers side, you want to double and triple check by feel that the turbo gasket has not moved to the side during installation. You will find yourself cursing a lot because it wants to move to the side. Thats why you need to let it dry into place. For me one side of the gasket moved to the side and was clamped down that way. I was so incredibly mad and sad 😥 Oil was spilling everywhere when I turned the car back on after complete assembly. 😆 😆 😆 I had to call it a day and go back in the next day and fix the issue.”abdomar528
Important specialty tools I highly recommend
- Low profile ratchet one of both 1/4 drive and 3/8 drive.
- Ratcheting box end wrenches in metric.
- 1/4 drive torx set
- 2 x long 1/2 drive extensions for impact wrench.
- Impact wrench socket set.
- Long reach nose pliers (one bent, one straight)
Things to buy
- New or rebuilt turbos
- New turbo return line seals
- New set of 6 exhaust manifold gaskets
- High temp gasket maker silicone (red stuff)
- A pack of new studs and nuts in case anything breaks. (M8 x 1.25, M13 hex head)
- 25 nuts for 16 bucks http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0056L28DA
- 25 studs for 16 bucks http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IK45DBY
- A set of copper crush washers.
S80 T6 Turbo DIY Intro
Dear fellow S80 owners. I am doing this write up because there are not many write up’s on turbo related posts. I will post some links that were helpful to me, which lead me to do this complete turbo replacement write up.
If you guys request, I can do a write up on this. I might do this later this month. I was desperate and I used 2 orings and some high temp silicone to seal the deal! I have no oil leaks, but I will go back in and do it right later.
1. Drain the radiator
2. Unbolt Strut bar strut bar 3. Remove all turbo pipes and airbox, also unscrew the torx bolt for the transmission dip stick
4. Remove heat shields
5. Un-mount the waste gate line from the passenger side.
6. Spray WD-40 or Liquid Wrench (my personal favorite) on all nuts for the down pipes, exhaust manifolds and everything in between.
7. Disconnect all the radiator lines going in and out of both turbos. They use a t50 torx. We will get to the oil inlet and outlet lines after a few things are done. P-side top view with ratchet
8. From underneath the car, remove all 8 downpipe nuts. Use two very long extensions and an impact wrench. The nuts will be 13mm hex head.
9. From underneath the car, unbolt the first exhaust pipe support from the subframe. It will be a 12mm hex head.
After step 8 and 9, the down pipes should fall off the turbos. Loosen, but to not remove, the second exhaust pipe support if you want them to fall more.
10. Remove the exhaust pipe section that is between the turbo and downpipes for both turbos. behind engine view
11. Remove the passenger side tire and CV joint as well as the CV joint bracket on the engine block. There is a bolt we need to access behind this bracket. It is the oil lines going to the top of the turbos. CV joint removed and bracket view
12. Unscrew the oil inlet lines going into the turbos. Passenger side turbo top view Driver side turbo top view
13. Now you can unscrew the bolt behind the cv joint bracket (its the Banjo bolt for the oil lines). One thing to note here is that once you unbolt it, you will have two crush washers fall, while one is still on the bolt. This is a double banjo bolt we just removed. That means there is a total of 3 copper washers. One is between first oil line and bolt head, second is between both oil lines, and the third one is between the engine block and the second oil line. I forgot to take a picture of this step. See this picture for a reference though.
random double banjo bolt pic
14. Using a torx bit, attach it to your new 1/4 drive low profile ratchet and unscrew the oil return lines from both turbos from the top. The passenger side is easy once the CV joint is out of the way. I done remember what the size was, but you need the torx sockets like these: http://www.harborfreight.com/6-pc-14-in … 68015.html
15. Now you can use your new 3/8 drive low profile ratchet and unmount the exhaust manifolds from the engine. Remove the passenger side turbo/manifold first. The driver side will be tough. But the low profile ratchet and a short 13mm socket is the only way you can do this.
Now assembly is very critical. Its pretty much reserve but not quite. I will explain shortly. You don’t want to half-ass anything ever! You have to jump between steps 12 -15. Read below.
Any nuts that came out with the studs, use this trick to separate them!
The two nut method used by Eric the car guy is removing a stud from the engine head. What you want to do it very similar. The nut that is stuck on the stud should be clamped into a vise! Then you can use this method to separate the nut from the stud. Use liquid wrench to help you bust that nut
Any studs or nuts that broke or stripped, replace them.
When putting the new turbo/manifolds back onto the engine, make sure you screw the studs back into the engine head by hand first! Use silicone to stick the new gaskets onto the engine head and the studs to guide you.
Keep the exhaust manifold nuts loose. This is very critical. You will need to put in the turbo oil return lines into place before you tighten any manifold nuts. You will need to jiggle the turbos around a bit as you try to get the return line into place. You will find yourself cursing a lot as you do this oil line installation part coming up in the next 2 paragraphs.
BEFORE placing the oil return line seals back into position, you want to use some silicone to stick the gasket into place. Let it dry so that it does not budge. You will not be able to see anything happening while you put the drivers side line into place. You can only feel whats going on down there. When doing the drivers side, you want to double and triple check by feel that the turbo gasket has not moved to the side during installation. You will find yourself cursing a lot because it wants to move to the side. Thats why you need to let it dry into place. For me one side of the gasket moved to the side and was clamped down that way. I was so incredibly mad and sad Oil was spilling everywhere when I turned the car back on after complete assembly. I had to call it a day and go back in the next day and fix the issue.
After installing the oil return lines. Screw the oil inlet line back into place with the banjo bolt, using two copper crush washers. You do not need to use new ones. If you loose them during assembly in the engine bay, your copper washer set will save you. The water cooling lines are a piece of cake compare to the oil lines. Don’t forget to use a copper washer before and after the oil line. See image below: random banjo bolt pic Once you get the oil line fiasco taken care of. You can now proceed to tighten the exhaust manifold nuts. From here just follow step 11 going backward to install.