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99 s70 cv boot replacement

Let’s talk boot replacement

Tips on Many Front End Parts Replacements

The LH side has a cir clip, but it’s nothing you have to compress or remove. It works the same as all the other cars you’ve worked on. You need to apply enough pressure with a pry bar to overcome the clip holding the axle. The RH side has no clip. Once the intermediate bearing cap is removed the axle will slide right out.

The passenger side seems to slide out for most people with just a tug. The driver’s side tends to take the 2 prongs opposite each other to get the axle past the circlip. I guess I would be concerned as to where to hit with the hammer- you don’t want to bugger up any of the attachment sections. Best to try to “pry” out of the transmission when possible rather than banging…

99 s70 cv boot replacement

Bonus! More on the Volvo S70

Introduced in Europe in late 1996 for the 1997 model year and later in the U.S. for the 1998 model year, the Volvo S70 was an updated version of the Volvo 850 saloon. The S70’s body style was overall more rounded compared to its predecessor. Changes included a redesigned front end with new lights, fully colour-coded bumpers and side trim, and clear indicator lenses for the rear lights, as well as a redesigned interior. According to Volvo, a total of 1800 changes were made

Standard equipment was improved with remote central locking, heated & electrically adjustable mirrors, 4 airbags, power brakes with ABS and power windows being standard on every car. Trim levels varied for each market as did the equipment levels of the most basic trims. In the United States, the badging denoted the engine variant and to some extent the equipment level, whereas in Europe engine and options could be chosen individually. On all markets more powerful versions usually received better or upgraded standard equipment. The T5 and R were the series high-performance models.

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I have to replace the front wheel bearings on my
2110 XC 70. Should I replace any “boots”? What
am I in for?

Ok, did this job today and have a few things to add…. LF half axle, torn outside CV boot, 1995 Volvo 850 GLT Wagon…

1. The Haynes manual sucks…. I don’t think it was at all helpful on this job, nor has it been much help to me in it’s lifetime…. I need to find a GOOD manual.

2. The easier way to do this is to disconnect the two bolts at the A-arm and swing it all to the side (I bungeed to the side of the wheel well). Remove Half Axle nut (36mm)….Half axle comes out of the hub and you’ve got it hanging out of the tranny. Just have some brake cleaner on hand afterwards because you’re bound to get grease and gunk all over the rotor. BONUS TO THIS METHOD: You avoid the ball joint all together! Just inspect it and move on.

3. You need a 36mm socket for the Axle Nut — and 18mm box wrench along with a 3/4″ ratchet (what I had and it worked) for the A-Arm bolts and nuts they are different sizes, believe it or not.

4. Getting the half axle out out of the transmission can be a B. We jammed at it, tried to get leverage with a screwdriver, breaker bar, crowbar, nothing worked. Since the boot was torn there was grease everywhere so getting behind the half axle with a screwdriver near the tranny was a bit tricky as it kept slipping off, plus the transfer case is there along with the car’s subframe, space is limited and you can’t get a whole lot of leverage…. finally, we jacked the car up some more… as high as we could get it…. got a crowbar in from underneath it (THIS IS KEY!) and used a rubber mallet to tap the crowbar in…. once in there, a few good taps will push it right out of the tranny. This took us a couple of hours to achieve. But the point is, you’ll get it out if you pound UP, don’t worry about leverage or pulling at it, just get in from underneath, keep tapping upwards. If you’re replacing the half axle and the seal, there’s not really much more that you can damage. So bang away get at it!

5. Keep the car in park, the half axel locks in (moving slightly from side to side as you attempt to turn it), if you place it in neutral it’ll move freely.

6. While getting at the half axle by banging at it and wedging something in there to pop it out, it’s inevitable that you’ll ding the seal around the half axel (a $6 part). I tend to lean on the side that says “well, you’re replacing it anyway right? why wouldn’t you, it’s right there.”

Well, I didn’t think about getting the seal before we did the job. God, I hate not being prepared, it’s saturday, noon, what am I going to do? Advanced Auto Parts stocks it!!! They had to get it from another store, so I went out and got lunch, and an hour later they had it for me… $6.49!!

The seal they have looks a little different (and yellow), it’s kind of built like a boot a little more and is packed with grease on the inside. But fit great, and really seemed to work well.

7. Interestingly enough, I found a slightly used LF half axle from a 1998 S70 for $13 (great deal right?), so I was installing that into my car to replace the torn one. It fit great!! Was apparently the same part for that model and year as well, HOWEVER, the axle nut (on the hub, in the middle of the rotor – the 36mm nut) is different!! It fits through the hub nicely and isn’t too long or anything, perfect fit… except a little too wide for the 850’s nut (the bolt is smaller on the 850’s, so the nut is too small to go on the S70’s).

Went to the junk yards on this saturday afternoon (I stress saturday because honestly, it’s tough to find parts on the weekend, most Volvo places are closed, as are most junk yards, and even those that are open are only open until 3 or 4pm… so we’re scrambling to find this nut….

Even more interesting, we found one on a V70… so I determined that though the half axle is interchangeable, the 850 has a different axel nut than the S70/V70, which both have the same. Cost me $2, fit onto the axel bolt like butter.

8. You’ll need maybe a half-quart or quarter-quart of Dexron III/Mercon transmission fluid because you’re bound to lose a little. But if the car is cold when you start the job, you’ll lose less fluid. Even if you don’t have this on hand, you’ll be fine, you don’t lose a lot of it (and by the way, fill the transmission fluid through the dip stick…. get a longer funnel for that).

9. We used the “red” locktite stuff from Advanced for the spleens on the hub (the wheel side).

10. Watch those boots, even if it looks good, you might have some small tears near where the little stainless rings are that hold the boots on to the shaft, as it moves, the little metal adjustment piece on the ring (the left over piece from when they put it on there and trim off the rest) this makes contact with the rubber and punches little holes, eventually. I had 2 or 3 small holes where the boot was torn through, they weren’t huge (at 1st sight, I couldn’t even seem them), but enough for a ton of grease to be everywhere. I probably drove with this boot for 3 months, so relieved to have it fixed.

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