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Dropping The Subframe – 2000 Volvo V70 R

2000-v70-subframe-corrosion.jpg

MVS Forums’ very own contributor scot850 (Neil) details his battle dropping the subframe on his 2000 Volvo V70 R.

After over 2 hours, all I managed to achieve was to remove the VC unit. With the benefit of hindsight and not taking the Volvo instructions too literally, I suggest the following is the way to remove it:

  1. Leave the Prop-shaft connected, but the bolts loosened, and undo the VC to diff bolts first. Again one was kindly left rounded. Took nearly 1 hour to get the 6 bolts out! Life would be easier with a hoist! Remove the prop-shaft to VC flange bolts. M ark all the positions of the bolts in case they are different and ensure you have a fixed point of reference on both flanges. I used a punch to mark both.
  2. Remove the front bushing bolt for the VC casing allowing the casing to drop down at the front. Then using a short 3/8″ drive 14mm socket and lots of extensions and a wobbly extension by the socket, align the ratchet and extensions so they just clear the back of the front VC flange. Undo and remove the 2 top bolts.
  3. Support the VC casing, and loosen the 2 lower casing to diff bolts but don’t remove. You may need use a piece of wood and a hammer to break the joint. I used a trolley jack to lift the unit slightly and then it separated. Remove the lower 2 bolts and it is out!

 2000 V70R – NOW IT BEGINS -REAR AWD SUB-FRAME REPLACEMENT

Post by scot850 » Wed Apr 08, 2015 7:21 pmWell, it is spring, and so I could no longer put it off. The rear AWD sub-frame on this car has to come out. All I can say so far, is in typical Volvo design philosophy, if you can find something to bolt to something else, then go for it, and make any easy job twice as difficult. This ‘R’ is proving to be an even bigger PITA than the 98 V70XC due to unique levels of stupidity. Unique rear caliper mounts that need a special shorty 7mm socket to get in to loosen the 2 slider bolts as it is positioned too close to the rear coil springs for example.

2 of the rear prop-shaft bolts had been damaged by PO or possibly when the prop-shaft was replaced a few years ago. Also the ‘R’ prop-shaft is counter-sunk into the flange at the front of the viscous coupling unit and had to be persuaded out with a cold chisel and 2 lb hammer. I plan to weigh the prop-bolts as Volvo claim they are all specially weighted to see if it is true!

Next I had planned to remove the VC unit, but discovered that one of the 4 VC unit housing to rear diff bolts is totally in-accessible on this car. Larger muffler and a different shape of fuel tank to the XC. I had planned to leave the tank in place, but it now looks like I have little choice but remove it as there is no way to support the 2 halves of the tank as per Volvo instructions, as the VC housing can’t then drop down with the rest of the sub-frame. I may get away with carefully supporting both halves of the tank independently.

Hoped also to leave the muffler system again in place, but had to remove it to allow the sub-frame to be remove as Volvo have attached the muffler mounts (twin outlets on this ‘R’) on both sides to the frame and made their mounting brackets in-accessible without removing it first.

yyyyyyyyyikes. I hope that I don’t have to do that to my VR anytime soon (my VC was replaced by the original owner in something like 2005).

Do you have lots of salt on the roads where you are? We do here, and this is why I try to wash the undercarriage as much as possible during winter months.Topscot850Posts: 5871Joined: Mon Apr 05, 2010 2:46 pmYear and Model: 2000 V70 RLocation: Calgary, Alberta, CanadaHas thanked:11 timesBeen thanked:205 times

Canada

RE: 2000 V70R – NOW IT BEGINS -REAR AWD SUB-FRAME REPLACEMEN

Post by scot850 » Wed Apr 08, 2015 11:35 pmYes we get a lot of salt on the roads, but the real killer is the ‘de-icer’ they have been using for the last 4-5 years. That is liquid rust and very aggressive. To date I seem to be the only person that has highlighted the issue, so maybe it is unique local conditions, or a lot of owners not looking closely at their cars. I washed my car regularly, but it didn’t help. My advice would be to keep an eye on the sub-frame at the rear of the rear wheel arch. If the metal on the inner arch starts to rust, clean it off ASAP and re-paint. This may help to delay any issues.

Neil.

2000 V70R – Now it begins -Rear AWD sub-frame replacement