I've always been a Haynes fan, but IMHO
Volvo has the better wiring diagrams...

Abscates 1,000,000 dollar book on electrical troubleshooting Find the 12 V at the motor, work backwards until you find where the voltage stops. Start where you know the problem is, at the non-working thing. I,was on crack when I,wrote that. Start at then12 v supply at the motor where it is missing....

The rear hood pads change from 1998 to 1999

This has to be the most useless piece of information on the web

smacknab wrote: ↑09 Oct 2019, 23:54 Any chance you know where I could find a diagram like this for the horn?

Search for Volvo document TP3932202.

Well this is a real drag, that's for sure. I am not sure if this can be properly diagnosed on the side of the road. It might make sense to get it towed to your indie's shop. Does the engine crank at all? If not you may have a bad starter. If it does crank you can troubleshoot further: A no start con...

Had it been hard/slow to start previously? It could be a bad starter/solenoid. We had the main power wire between the solenoid/starter motor go bad and eventually split on my old '96NA. It's kind of a short wire that's hard to see in the car. The car would crank slowly, especially more so when cold,...

I have had two no start other electrics working, both of which involved a breakage of the wire between the solenoid and the starter body. Check for 12V on the green thin wire while attempting to crank. If you have voltage, suspect the starter. In one case I was able to jumper the broken braided wire...

My bet is that you have a dead starter.

Excellent observational skills and troubleshooting! You will be fine getting home on a fully charged battery. You can run a few hours on a good charged battery during the day time. If that is your commute, you can charge your battery each day and drive it until you deal with the AC. Hey, it’s a Tesl...

The path of least resistance in my mind is to grab a replacement compressor from a pick-n-pull. Hooking the lines back up will help to keep the crap out of them. If it was just the clutch bearing that seized up and the compressor didn't grenade internally then it is really easy to pull a good vacuum...