You want four snow tires, not " all season " tires. Four or 4, not 2 unless you can buy 2 and get 2 free

Rust protection on these cars is phenomenal. But, if you are the kind of person who washes brake dust off your wheels, You won't like your first New England winter.

Get that fan out of the way. Top two screws have to come out, the bottom two just need to be loosened. Replace them all with cheapie SS from Lowes once you have to the fan out. Don't let the Swedish Header Intake Throttle hit the fan, of course

You will have to make those up,from hard lines and bend to fit if NLA

Save the last bit of your old ones and just swage new line in

They are very high quality so a junkyard pull would work too.

abscate wrote: ↑24 Nov 2016, 05:27 You probably have lawnmower syndrome!

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... e&start=10

Another seasonal fAvourite

Dave in Maine ...thanks for the Public Service reminder on a newcomer to winter.

As I taught my many many youth drivers ( passing on wisdom from 1966)

" double your travel time, double your following distance" in bad weather

You can get to that hidden on with a 1/4 drive ratchet and M6 socket on a long extension and a wobble. Not too tight,like firm wrist torque, not elbow torque

I'm cruising MA on Tuesday if you want a stop in by the Merry MVS mechanic...pm me

Bon jour, Hadrien! Easy things first The sway bar links on these cars usually make the metal noise in front The timinh belt job due should include a new Volvo brand water pump at your mileage. If you like the Autobahn speeds, I would use Volvo parts only. For the PCV, the non Volvo rubber lasts abou...

A panel beater can fix that. A nice bright yellow one will give it that Jerry Garcia look.

Your 1999 immobilizer inhibits spark and fuel, not cranking.

You can try the tire gauge fuel pressure reading or spray a three second shot f ether ( starting fluid) to confirm a fuel delivery problem.

1999s are for special people but we knew that already. Prince had one, inspired a song.

It does have a crank sensor and cam sensor but the starter fluid approach will point to that as failed ignition, further down the diagnostic approach. After 20 years the ignition switch is suspect too, that will show up as bad voltage on the coil and injection bus, also led to by starter fluid test....