You just look at The voltage to ground across the battery, and the voltage at the fuse box to a good ground on the engine. No need for long cables. If you are worried about the ground cable, remove it and measure resistance on it directly. You can use a temperature gun to see if it gets warmer due t...

I'll make the measurement and snap some pix

It does,t matter if the small lights on as long as they are on for both measurements.

Captions to follow. Ambient temp 1.0 C

Just adding the obligatory reminder to these threads that the valve timing marks on the crank and cams are NOT top dead center marks, but non- interference marks of piston and valves.

Please price your car (we suggest the NADA guide for 1994 and later vehicles) on your ad - 'make offer' and the like is discouraged. If you need help pricing, see (1)

...from guidelines

Good luck with Sale!

If you do, some gets your soul. You should know that.

Seriously, call the PO. Only good can come out of that.

Well, at least Im actually running Blackstone on my 7500 mile P2 oil to see whats really left over- I splurged for TBN testing too.

Check for 12V at the coils, it should match B+

With no grounding, it is possible the ECU fried, indeed, though. You can confirm that by watching the ground wire waveform on an o- scope

Yeah, a 2001 has to be cloned or married to the car to work.

The coils get B+ or battery voltage from common power relay. The ECU grounds them to fire them

Figureabout $250 for the hardware and service, about 1/4 of what the dealer would charge , minimum

No codes leans more to an immobiliser problem than an ECU problem, but you are in rarely charted waters.

VolvoOH (username) had a fried ECU in a recent (past 2 years?) thread