Hi,
I'm interested in getting a 850, and I found a 94 850 Turbo with about 70k miles on it. Test drive seemed very nice, and the interior and exterior looked fine. My questions is whether there are certain things I should look out for. Is there anything bad with these cars? My budget is fairly limited. The timing belt isn't changed yet, and he wants 6700 for it. what do you guys think???
possible new owner with questions Topic is solved
- matthew1
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What is your most important Thing with cars?
1. performance
2. comfort
3. reliability
4. safety
1. performance
2. comfort
3. reliability
4. safety
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1998 V70, no dash lights on
1997 850 T5 [gone] w/ MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace
2004 V70 R [gone]
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1998 V70, no dash lights on
1997 850 T5 [gone] w/ MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace
2004 V70 R [gone]
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Guest
1) Reliability
2) Comfort
3) Safety
4) Performance
That is how I will rank how my priorities are at this point in my life.
2) Comfort
3) Safety
4) Performance
That is how I will rank how my priorities are at this point in my life.
- matthew1
- Site Admin
- Posts: 14484
- Joined: 14 September 2002
- Year and Model: 850 T5, 1997
- Location: Denver, Colorado, US
- Has thanked: 2660 times
- Been thanked: 1248 times
- Contact:
Get a Toyota.
Help keep MVS on the web -> click sponsors' links here on MVS when you buy from them.
Also -> Amazon link. Click that when you go to buy something on Amazon and MVS gets a cut!
1998 V70, no dash lights on
1997 850 T5 [gone] w/ MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace
2004 V70 R [gone]
How to Thank someone for their post

Also -> Amazon link. Click that when you go to buy something on Amazon and MVS gets a cut!
1998 V70, no dash lights on
1997 850 T5 [gone] w/ MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace
2004 V70 R [gone]
How to Thank someone for their post

-
96R
~70k miles is still low mileage, just check the follow items before you buy:
1) upper engine stabilizer mount. It is the rubber bushing on the "arm" that is attached to the top right side of the engine to the firewall. If it's broken, no big deal, have it changed My broke at 65k miles.
2) the serpentine belt and timing belt should be changed by this point. don't buy it unless they change it or drop the price.
3) Automatic transmission fluid flush. It should be done.
4) Check the brakes. Discs should be replaced if they are still the original.
5) If it has ABS/Traction, make sure no warning lights are showing on the dash. This unit breaks down regularly in 850s around that mileage. Replacement part ranges from $250-400.
6) Check the condition of the suspension arms and shocks.
7) Check for error codes in the engine computer (take it to the dealer or indy volvo mechanic).
If all of the above checks out, then the car should be fine. The car is reliable but has a predictable parts replacement schedule that includes most of the item above.
1) upper engine stabilizer mount. It is the rubber bushing on the "arm" that is attached to the top right side of the engine to the firewall. If it's broken, no big deal, have it changed My broke at 65k miles.
2) the serpentine belt and timing belt should be changed by this point. don't buy it unless they change it or drop the price.
3) Automatic transmission fluid flush. It should be done.
4) Check the brakes. Discs should be replaced if they are still the original.
5) If it has ABS/Traction, make sure no warning lights are showing on the dash. This unit breaks down regularly in 850s around that mileage. Replacement part ranges from $250-400.
6) Check the condition of the suspension arms and shocks.
7) Check for error codes in the engine computer (take it to the dealer or indy volvo mechanic).
If all of the above checks out, then the car should be fine. The car is reliable but has a predictable parts replacement schedule that includes most of the item above.
- matthew1
- Site Admin
- Posts: 14484
- Joined: 14 September 2002
- Year and Model: 850 T5, 1997
- Location: Denver, Colorado, US
- Has thanked: 2660 times
- Been thanked: 1248 times
- Contact:
96R is right on. I didn't mean to sound simple. But the front wheel drive Volvos are not the rear wheel drive 240s etc. of past. Those seemed to run for 200k miles just changing the consumables. The fwd are more finicky and need more maintenance $.
For power, comfort and safety, the modern Volvos can't be beat. For someone who puts repair or maintenance requirements above those, I'd say go to a Japanese brand. That's my $.02.
For power, comfort and safety, the modern Volvos can't be beat. For someone who puts repair or maintenance requirements above those, I'd say go to a Japanese brand. That's my $.02.
Help keep MVS on the web -> click sponsors' links here on MVS when you buy from them.
Also -> Amazon link. Click that when you go to buy something on Amazon and MVS gets a cut!
1998 V70, no dash lights on
1997 850 T5 [gone] w/ MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace
2004 V70 R [gone]
How to Thank someone for their post

Also -> Amazon link. Click that when you go to buy something on Amazon and MVS gets a cut!
1998 V70, no dash lights on
1997 850 T5 [gone] w/ MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace
2004 V70 R [gone]
How to Thank someone for their post

-
Batman518
Thanks for watching out. It made me more cautious about purchasing the car. So I did more research and brought along a BUYING USED CAR CHECKLIST and kept some good buying tips in mind. Found out the motor oil was milky white, which indicates oil leakage or something bad at least...Sadly, my confidence in Volvos have gone down 
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