850 T5 wrong timing belt tensioner? Topic is solved

Craig · Post by **Craig** » 10 Nov 2002, 15:01

Today I decided to replace the timing belt on my ex police T5 estate, so having gotten myself well prepared by buying all the stuff I needed and printing off a copy of the instructions from 'Bay 13' I took the plunge.
After a fairly easy time taking off the serpentine belt and all the other relevant parts I then fought for half an hour to get the belt past the crank pulley.
'HURRAH' I hear you cry but wait, once off I checked the old belt against the new one and it was shorter!!!.'BUGGER' , it was at this point I realised that I had the right belt but the tensioner on the engine was incorrect to what was being shown on 'Bay 13' and also the Haynes piece of crap( is it just me or have these gotten realy bad lately!!).
Also while farting about trying to work out how to fit a belt that can't be tesioned I also managed to move the bottom pulley alot(a couple of turns).

So if anyone can tell me why my tensioner is different or how to realine the bottom timing mark with no belt on I would be gratefull.Oh the tensioner I have has a bolt in the middle and can be swung out by using an allen key to take up the slack in the belt...

Post by **matthew1** » 10 Nov 2002, 19:17

Here's something I found in Google.com's cache:

Timing belt change - not so easy for beginner[850/1995] posted by Yaw Mak on
Sunday, 6 September 1998, at 10:02 a.m.

According to Haynes, it's "Fairly Difficult." As a beginner DIY, I started the job shortly after 11 a.m. and by the time I'm done and have my garage clean up is 7 p.m. I did, however, take a rest (including a long lunch) from time to time.

I'm quite pleased with the result, nevertheless.

For those beginners (experts, bypass the rest), here are the issues to watch (all based on Haynes' paragraph number):

3.9 The space is so tight to remove the bolts on the timing belt guard that you're lucky to turn 1/8 circle on each action. The bolts do not break loose (or loose enough that you can turn by your bare fingers). A 1/2 hour job for me.
3.10 You need a 30mm socket to turn the crankshaft. No marks on mine and so I marked them myself with white touch-up paint, as suggested by a DIY bricker.
3.14 The space indeed is very limited at the crankshaft sprocket. I just cut the belt to remove it.
3.18 Make sure you have a big enough vice to lock the tensioner plunger. I don't and had to use 3 C-clamps for the job.
3.20 Now that you cannot cut your new timing belt to put it in place, you need to do a great amount of manipulation. And, you have to use your hands to sense what is in its way since it's out of your view. Then, line the belt up tight on the camshaft sprocket took me another hour or so. This is an important part and so I didn't rush it. I would say it's very easy to miss aligned them. If you do, you have to start all over by removing the belt tensioner and retension it and so on....
3.25 Timing belt guard again! Another 1/2 hour job to put it back!
3.26 I didn't fold back the wheel arch liner until I was done with the aux belt.
3.30 Refit the aux belt is not a snap for me. I used a C-clamp (clamp on the hole and edge of the tensioner) and a screwdriver. When we (my wife and I) finally got it right, it's easy.

This is the first time I have ever done a timing belt change on any car. The next time I can do it in 3-4 hours. With better tools, I can further cut it down to 2-3 hours.

also read

http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/index.htm ... show_all=1

Hope this helps!

alexitos4u · Post by **alexitos4u** » 04 Jul 2010, 14:53

This is a VERY diffuclt job! due to the VERY tight clearances at the pully..not for the weak at hand or bad backs, etc. the problem is... it wasnt ment to be insttalled this way!, so the bad thing is kinking the belt, and twisting to get it on the sproket! not good for the belt...it seams almost impossible at first...also, if your changing the tensioner pully theres that damn t-45 torx bolt that the only way I got it off was with a disc brake socket (its real short sold at Sears) so the socket could fit in between the pully and frame..god help you with this job...IT IS NOT AS EASY AS THESE GUYS CLAIM if your a novice at mechanics and/or do not have an 100+ lb impact dont do it like this....it is a SCARY BITCH !!!! you will frighten yourself to death when the belt wont go on...its to scary I wont do it like this ever again! get the impact gun and do it correctly.......then its a 3-4 hour job
to add FOP Groton sent me the wrong hydraulic tensioner in the kit I had to shim it up to be like the original !!!!!
and the retainer pin was put in on the wrong side to ! god have mercy on you if you try this yourself to much to worry about

Post by **MNCO1** » 05 Jul 2010, 19:51

I am a novice, definitely not qualified to be called a mechanic. I do have a decent selection of tools now, including a floor jack and ramps and jackstands. I did my first ever Timing Belt job on my 850 T5 back in feb '10. It went well and I felt great for having tackled it. I did fight that one torx bolt on the roller(?). Scared me a little, afraid I was going to strip it but I wanted to give the job a try and I found a way to break it free. I ordered my kit from IPD. Everything worked great. They charge a little more but you get what you pay for. FCP sells good stuff too. They will redo the order I'am sure if you call them. Not sure what to think about shimming a wrong part. I wouldn't use it. Sorry this turned out to be bummer for you, at least you gave it a shot and probably learned something from it too.

alexitos4u · Post by **alexitos4u** » 06 Jul 2010, 23:45

MNC01 thanks for the comment... it was a bummer...pat on the back to you!!!...
but if I had to do it again ..I would pull out the serpentine pully FOR SURE.. the part problem was with the tensioner not being as tall as the one that came out so yes it will go back. One thing I did learn/try and it worked was using zip ties in the exh/intake sprocket holes before removing the original belt. one in the middle real tight and two more. They hold the sprokets in place real good if thier real tight. Also marked the belt and those sprokets with white out then just counted the teeth in between the marks and matched the new belt by counting the teeth and sprocket marks to make sure the sprokets didnt move that worked well.I guess I hate working on things that I must use my fingers half the time to feel rather than see whats going on (: The disc brake tork T-45 socket is the trick, its shorter than most torx sockets. I must admit I was a little scared when I turned the key!
Oh ya...that damn serpentine is another story!
Anyway a few tips that helped me to go with this scary install.....

alexitos4u · Post by **alexitos4u** » 13 Jul 2010, 23:08

My tensioner did not match up to the pully flange it was not as tall as the one that came out in my kit! I was told by FOP Groton to call the Volvo dealer, give them the correct engine number etc. and get the correct part number so Groton could send me the correct tensioner!!!...so yes... I guess there are variations in this part.
What gets me mad is that groton doesn't ask for a specific engine number in thier order forms......!
Also when I got the tensioner the pull pill was on the wrong side of the tensioner!!!, good thing I had a lrage vise to turn it...
good luck...to many variables in this job
Mine had and very small notch at the back of the belt pully at the crank..VERY SMALL on one of the gear valleys. I put some white out on it to see it better. There is a small notch behind the pully on the engine these two should line up ... at the same time, the two upper notches on the cam gears line up with the notches on the upper cover.
so as you turn the crank pully these will eventually all line up with thier notches (the crank takes two revolutions to line up
with the two cam pullys)

Post by **pkc303** » 14 Jul 2010, 08:06

We changed our second belt. I agree the Haynes manual is more of a guide. We didn't remove the lower pulley, instead choosing the method of going around the pulley. I mark the cam shafts at the top and the one at the bottom. I don't move them, but zip tie the ones at the top (pictured). The exhaust cam moved a little while we were working, we just took a large screw driver and using the screws, gently pried it back when we put the new belt on. I figure with the zip ties, they can't move more than a tooth.

There is a write up somewhere of how to get the lower pulley back aligned, if you get it off. I believe it involves getting the top ones aligned with the small marks too. I've never seen the mark on the lower pulley, but I believe it is there. I mark the lower pulley with my own mark on the pulley, and the frame/engine mount. Sorry I don't have a picture. I used paint pen, and a china marker. The china marker worked best. Good luck.