Login Register

battery gauge/power surges

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on all Volvo's "mid era" rear wheel drive Volvos.

1975 - 1993 240
1983 - 1992 740
1982 - 1991 760
1986 - 1991 780
1990 - 1998 940
1990 - 1998 960
1997 - 1998 V90/S90

Post Reply
'85 760TURBO

battery gauge/power surges

Post by '85 760TURBO »

my battery post and wires have been forming corrosion off and on for a few weeks. i had the battery tested and it showed it was fine, and i cleaned the post and wires and put new ends on the wiring. it still had corrosion on the ends after about a week, and the battery gauge would occasionally surge, the needle going from about the half way point all the way over to the red and back, depending on how fast the car was going(it surged higher when going faster) today i bought a new battery and recleaned everything, and the gauge is still moving as i drive. not as bad, the needle doesn't get as high as before but still moves with accelerration of the car and the lights and fan motor also "surge". anybody know what the deuce is going on? is it the alternator? loose/bad wiring somewhere i can't see? :?: :?:

Guest

Post by Guest »

measure the voltage

with the car sitting (not running) the battery should read about 12v

with the car running you shoud get 13.7v-14.3v

when you first start the car the alternator will charge at a high rate for a few minutes

When you turn on a heavy load you (headlights) you may notice a slight dip

I put wheel bearing grease on the battery terminals after I have cleaned and tightened them. They are nasty to touch but they do not corrode.

I am not sure if I have answered your questions

'85 760T
Posts: 1
Joined: 4 December 2005
Year and Model:
Location: texas

Post by '85 760T »

i bought a new battery, the other one was leaking around the post and the cells. it showed it was putting out what it should, but the leaks couldn't be a good thing. with a new battery and new tight connections i've had no more surges.

LaRy
Posts: 302
Joined: 15 January 2004
Year and Model:
Location: Sweden
Been thanked: 1 time

Post by LaRy »

Guest here has given some good advices how to check the voltage during different situations. It is actually the charging regulator that should take care of this. Maybe you need a new one. The regualtor is most probably assembled together with the alternator brushes and bad brushes will make the alternator work bad, it could definitely be overcharging.

Guest

Post by Guest »

I have a similar problem in my 1986 740 volvo, except that the battery gauge would move from the middle of the range where it used to be, down to the red. It does this when I am driving at about the same speed. It is like if something gets stuck, then losens, then stuck again. The alternator warning light works fine, because it comes red when I start the car, then it stays off. It would flicker sometime when I idle slow.
I wonder if it is the battery, the regulator, or the whole alternator.
My regulator is an integral part of the alternator and has the electrical connection that is supposed to go to the "battery temperature sensor". The sensor is nowhere to be found. Maybe it never had one, maybe I lost it. The connector where the sensor is supposed to connect to is hanging in front of the battery, and the wiring to the regulator show normal continuity. If the sensor is a must-have, then that may explain why the regulator would not work fine.
And Merry Christmas all

Post Reply
  • Similar Topics
    Replies
    Views
    Last post