Broken CV boots

Smash · Post by **Smash** » 30 Jul 2004, 20:59

Anyone tacked this yet? Saw that both outers are bad when I inspected today. Have not done this in 10 yrs or so but my experience with the split boot is that they do not stay.

How bad to get the axles off? Just undo the lower A-arm mount & hub nut and they pull out of tranny/hub or...?

I'd like to just get the axles refurb, I'll check around here for prices.

And boy, I'm gettin' tired of my no-digital music setup. Makes me want to drive my other car!

Post by **matthew1** » 31 Jul 2004, 00:30

My boots are ok; I check them every 6 months or so. Not saying that to do a na-na-na thing, just saying that I check them because if you catch a split boot early, you can save yourself a cv replacement. I did a replacement on an old Civic years ago, but none on my 850. If you do yours and have a digital camera, please send me the pics and I'll do a page on it.

Thanks,
Matt

potroast · Post by **potroast** » 31 Jul 2004, 00:38

My old camry went through CV boots like crazy. It was the only problem with a car that otherwise wouldn't die, so I can't complain. Replacing them on the camry was easy as pie -- just messy. I imagine the 850 would be similar.

I remember seeing what appeared to be a fairly in-depth writeup in the haynes manual, so you should probably check that out to see if you're up for it.

I did my balljoints and tie rod ends a month or two ago and everything seemed very easy and straight-forward on the 850.

Smash · Post by **Smash** » 01 Aug 2004, 21:47

Thanks for the responses - I'll dig into it in September and post back.

Post by **Kimo** » 15 Aug 2004, 13:32

This is a simple repair. I posted questions on the same topic for the same repair back on 7/23 and got no response. I just did both sides of my fiance's 1995 850 turbo in 4 hours yesterday. That included set-up time and cleaning my tools. Another example of the quality engineering that the Swedes built into these cars. I don't think there will be a next time, but if it has to be done again, the time would be cut down to 45 minutes per side. The shopping list went as follows:

One left re-manufactured axle $78.85
One right remanufactured axle $78.85
One Chilton's manual for 90-98 Vulvas $13.99

In the manual there are only 12 steps to removing the axle. They left out a few things like (1) the right side axle carrier bearing retainer bracket and (2) by loosening the bottom strut bolt and removing the upper strut bolt makes it easier to pop the lower ball joint out and (3) you don't need to take the sway bar bracket out. Also, the proceedure for axle RR is found in the manual transmission section of the drive train repairs, not the automatic transaxle section. Air tools are a plus and a torqe wrench is mandatory. Breaking the axle nut loose took some effort, and a rusty ball joint slowed things a bit.

It pays to have some juice with your parts supplier to get the sweet pricing...also to waive the $120 (not a misprint, $120) core per axle on the promise that you'll be back later that day with the old ones.

So if you're the tea and crumpets

how-do-I-change-my-dome-light-bulb type on this site then take it to the dealer and pay $1200. If you have some basic knowledge and a few tools, well then there's nothing to it.

"Tomorrow is promised to no one"