Window power switches
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Davedaknight
Window power switches
Still got my on-again/off-again brake light/turn signal/backup light problem; now, I have another in addition: The passenger side window goes down, but not up unless I do it from the driver master switches. On top of that, the driver side rear window goes down, but apparently, there's a loose connection because it stays down until I slam the door exactly right, re-making the connection. Can I get to these two without disassembling the whole door? Sighhhh.
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Kmaniac in California USA
It sounds to me that your PW problems may by with the switches and electrical connections. Checking the connections and/or the integrity of your switches will require removing the door panels. And the best word to describe this process, in all seriousness, is SIMPLE! All it takes is a flat-blade and a phillips screwdriver.
I don't believe your 1990 740 differs that much from my 1986 model.
On the bottom edge of the door panel, you will find either two or three snap clips. The best way to view these is to lie on the ground and look straight up a the door panel edge. You will find another one hiding inside the red door edge safety light. Pop out these clips with your flat-blade.
Pop off the speaker cover, which is snap fitted in place. You should find a phillips head mounting screw here on the rear doors but not necessarily on the front doors.
Unscrew the door lock button from the post and remove.
On the door handle knob, the one you pull back to open the door, you will find and oval shaped cap with a center hole. This is a rubber plug. Remove the rubber plug to expose the phillips mounting screw. Unscrew and remove the knob.
Just to the rear of the door handle knob, you will see a round plastic cap with a square slot. This is a locking screw. Insert your flat-blade and rotate 1/4 turn counterclockwise to release.
The panel will now be ready to remove. Just pull away and then up to remove the panel. At this point you will need to unplug the electrical connectors ot the edge light, power window switch and speaker.
It has taken me less than 5 minutes to remove and reinstall a door panel on my 740. In fact, when I bought my 740 last August, there was a problem with the driver rear window. I would go down by itself, but would make gear knashing cluncks without movement when you tried to roll it up. You would have to pull the window up by hand, while pushing the window button (a hard feat with only two hands) to get the window back up. Then, when you drove down the road, the window would start to lower on its own with vibration and gravity. Twenty minutes after getting this new aquisition home from the previousl owner, I had the rear door panel off, and the entire power window mechanism disassembled and in my hand. This car has the simplest door panel and power window mechanism I have ever worked on. Taking apart the Volvo door and window took less than half the time it took me to disassemble the power window mechanism in my Dodge Shadow Convertible.
The problem with my window was a plastic window regulator that fractured under the stresses of normal operation. When you rolled down the window, the torque of the motor would force the regulator together, allowing normal lowering. But when you tried to raise the window, the torque would force cracks in the regulator to separate and the gear teeth to unmesh. The entire regulator needed replacement. I called an independent Volvo parts distributor in a nearby town. Discovered that he had in stock an all-metal replacement regulator, with motor. He said I had to splice two wires and drill a hole in my door to make it fit and work. When I got the new part inside the door, I found that three of the mounting studs used existing holes and the fourth used a previously unused hole in the door. No drilling required, but I still had to splice two wires. I put it all back together and the window works great.
As I said before, the tail light design has marginal reliability. In the last two weeks, I had to mess with mine twice. Just after a major rainstorm, the "no bulb" light came on again. Found the right brake light was not lighting. Pulled the bulb and found in shattered. Apparently, some water leaked into the assembly and shattered the bulb. Replaced the bulb and everything worked. Then, a few days ago, the left turnsignal starts blinking at three times the rate as the right. I look and find the bulb not lighting. When I pull the bulb out, it is normal. I plug the bulb back in, then it works and the blinking rate is back to normal. Go figure. This will be an ongoing ritual that I'm sure both of us will deal with for a long time to come, or until we sell our respective cars, whichever occurs first.
Chris "http://hometown.aol.com/kmaniak/index.html"
I don't believe your 1990 740 differs that much from my 1986 model.
On the bottom edge of the door panel, you will find either two or three snap clips. The best way to view these is to lie on the ground and look straight up a the door panel edge. You will find another one hiding inside the red door edge safety light. Pop out these clips with your flat-blade.
Pop off the speaker cover, which is snap fitted in place. You should find a phillips head mounting screw here on the rear doors but not necessarily on the front doors.
Unscrew the door lock button from the post and remove.
On the door handle knob, the one you pull back to open the door, you will find and oval shaped cap with a center hole. This is a rubber plug. Remove the rubber plug to expose the phillips mounting screw. Unscrew and remove the knob.
Just to the rear of the door handle knob, you will see a round plastic cap with a square slot. This is a locking screw. Insert your flat-blade and rotate 1/4 turn counterclockwise to release.
The panel will now be ready to remove. Just pull away and then up to remove the panel. At this point you will need to unplug the electrical connectors ot the edge light, power window switch and speaker.
It has taken me less than 5 minutes to remove and reinstall a door panel on my 740. In fact, when I bought my 740 last August, there was a problem with the driver rear window. I would go down by itself, but would make gear knashing cluncks without movement when you tried to roll it up. You would have to pull the window up by hand, while pushing the window button (a hard feat with only two hands) to get the window back up. Then, when you drove down the road, the window would start to lower on its own with vibration and gravity. Twenty minutes after getting this new aquisition home from the previousl owner, I had the rear door panel off, and the entire power window mechanism disassembled and in my hand. This car has the simplest door panel and power window mechanism I have ever worked on. Taking apart the Volvo door and window took less than half the time it took me to disassemble the power window mechanism in my Dodge Shadow Convertible.
The problem with my window was a plastic window regulator that fractured under the stresses of normal operation. When you rolled down the window, the torque of the motor would force the regulator together, allowing normal lowering. But when you tried to raise the window, the torque would force cracks in the regulator to separate and the gear teeth to unmesh. The entire regulator needed replacement. I called an independent Volvo parts distributor in a nearby town. Discovered that he had in stock an all-metal replacement regulator, with motor. He said I had to splice two wires and drill a hole in my door to make it fit and work. When I got the new part inside the door, I found that three of the mounting studs used existing holes and the fourth used a previously unused hole in the door. No drilling required, but I still had to splice two wires. I put it all back together and the window works great.
As I said before, the tail light design has marginal reliability. In the last two weeks, I had to mess with mine twice. Just after a major rainstorm, the "no bulb" light came on again. Found the right brake light was not lighting. Pulled the bulb and found in shattered. Apparently, some water leaked into the assembly and shattered the bulb. Replaced the bulb and everything worked. Then, a few days ago, the left turnsignal starts blinking at three times the rate as the right. I look and find the bulb not lighting. When I pull the bulb out, it is normal. I plug the bulb back in, then it works and the blinking rate is back to normal. Go figure. This will be an ongoing ritual that I'm sure both of us will deal with for a long time to come, or until we sell our respective cars, whichever occurs first.
Chris "http://hometown.aol.com/kmaniak/index.html"
Hi, you said you had a problem with the bulbs after heavy rain. The Volvo has here an interesting (bad) design. When it is raining, the rain from the roof is coming down on both sides of the trunk opening. That water is just normally pooring over the light consoles. The only thing stopping the water from coming into the light console and the trunk floor is actually the rubber gasket around the light console. The 740's is not a new car any longer, so that gasket is mostly in bad shape. I use to remove the console and apply some transparent wax to the rubber gasket, wax of the same type as used for protecting the car body. I can tell you for shure, if you have water under the carpets in the trunk, it is coming in this way, and it will give you rust and bad connection for the light bulbs.
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Kmaniac in California USA
Thanks for the tip on the trunk and light gasket. I do have a small puddle in the drivers side well of the trunk. I found evidence of this leak when I bought the car. Pulled the trunk mat away while replacing the in-tank fuel pump and found the drain line tee from the window drains broken. Repaired and resealed the tee so I thought this leak was cured. Then discovered a puddle again after the first rain. Now I know another place to look for a leak. Thanks, again.
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