Volvo help, forum + news for all models

I recently bought a Ferrita cat-back system from Viva Performance in 304 stainless for my 850. It was made in Sweden and cost about $700 delivered. Quality was quite good, and it came with stainless clamps and high quality rubber hangers. They have a few options for V70.

The man who's perpetually in left field deserves his own Green Monster.

HI, I'm bumping this old thread because I haven't been able to find the hose on the parts diagrams. Mine, of course, was disintegrated and hard as a brick and I'm currently running on a length of Gates transmission oil hose. The wall is about 2/3 as thick as what I took off and it seemed pretty squi...

Be prepared for squirting refrigerant if the AC is still charged, though it's probably all leaked out.

I'm confused. The four corroded bolts with the new Febi mount look like they're the same size. They all look like M8's to my eyeball. I think I undid the bolts on this mount that go in the engine and shoved it over a little to get more room when I last did the timing belt on mine. Or maybe I've got ...

I probably would have tried the angle grinder first on the strut. The Dremel would have been plan B.

turbo = angle grinder
NA = Dremel

"Carvrepair" has been permanently added to my lexicon.

It’s been a while since I did one, but I remember undoing the motor mount on that end of the engine, supporting it with a hook, and using a ratchet strap to pull it toward the driver’s side. I think I jammed a wood block in on the passenger side somewhere, which provided the extra inch.

Deetz about cam breakage? Can fellow travelers avoid this fate?

All the junkyard ones will be old and crunchy. You may need to build them yourself.

Eddy, did you wedge the engine over toward the driver side to have enough room to get in there with the Dremel?

That’s some of the rustiest rust I’ve ever seen.

How about a "rust porn" forum category?

This is why I MVS.

I ground the head off one back in April. The heat and vibration helped the penetrating oil do it’s job and the stub came out with a vise grip. I used the Harbor Freight electric die grinder, which is like a giant monster Dremel and uses 1/4” shank bits. The pneumatic ones are cheaper but you need a ...

Die grinder is the right size wrench.

The old school bullet connectors that it plugs into are often in a sorry state by the time you get in there to replace the ECT sensor. I'm kind of inclined to think that half the time the problem is a bad connection. This writeup shows some bad ones and provides details of spicing new ones in: https...

Alas, they've really scaled back the 850 parts this year. I'd buy a TRW rebuilt rack and enough other stuff to crack $500 tonight if they had one.

The extra coarse cap screws which attach it at each end seem to be a Volvo special, I wanted to use stainless but couldn’t find anything to match.

I’ve always wondered if the opaque covers are a legal requirement when driving a car with these lights on the street.

I buy a lot of stuff on ebay, but something I learned the hard way is that you have to always ask about the DOT codes when you’re shopping for tires. I bought a new tire with stickers on it that was 10 years old!

Wow! You run 45's in the winter? That's badass! You must have outstanding plowing and not many potholes. Down here in Minnesota I wish I could run a 65 series in the winter. We get washboard ice, potholes and pavement buckling when it gets really cold.

It looks like the Michelin X-Ice I3 tires are being discontinued. Tire Rack has some incredible pricing. I just bought a set of four in 195/60R15 for my Cetus winter wheels for $266, which included tax and a $40 credit for picking them up at their local distribution center.

Are you wanting to be able to fight back against the scourge of glare created by the new LED headlights? So they can be blinded also?

They had to choose the appropriate aluminum alloy to get the bolts to seize like that. Ironically the more expensive higher strength alloys also corrode more.

On a P80 you don’t need no stinkin’ loctite. Rust is your threadlocker.

I’ve been a Meyle guy for about 15 years. Just installed my first pair of Zimmies.

Mmm... fresh anti-seize!

We can’t see our wheels when we drive , which is astonishing amidst all of the wheel threads ? That, and people who buy brake components based on dust levels I buy brakes to stop quickly If you’d like to debate brake pads I’ll be happy to take the other side and argue that Akebono pads allow you to...

What we’re discussing here has nothing to do with facts and figures. We’re talking about a completely subjective aesthetic experience of the sight which greets you when you open the hood, which some of us do a lot.

Maybe I’m missing a joke here, but I totally agree that The Blue looks awesome in the engine compartment. Pentofrost NF is still bright blue and readily available. I’ll be switching both of my 850’s soon.

Its been a while since I studied this. The only issue I was able to identify was that the dino oils formulated for use in separate differentials had “extreme pressure” (EP) additives which seemed to be mainly sulfur. When used in a transaxle with brass synchros these sulfur additives could become pr...

It’s possible to wriggle your hand in there. and also to view with a mirror. My wire was severed, perhaps by a rodent.

Coming from an S40, you sure that water pump fits your 98 NA? I'd probably use it if it does, or buy a Hepu if it doesn't. This is the first good word I’ve seen about a Hepu on a Volvo. I put one on a VW and it went over 100,000 miles with no issues. I know you rack up the miles so I trust your opi...

Thanks, everybody! My odds look pretty good. I’ll wait on the subframe and steering column until the rack arrives. If P80’s have a kitchen sink I’m sure Rick knows the part numbers of all five versions. I’m thinking I’ll do subframe bushings when I drop it, plus maybe rear motor mount, it’s got abou...

I was actually laughing when I saw his suggestion to get the subframe. Are P80 subframes "completely interchangeable"?

I guess all I can do is buy one of these " fits S/V70 and 850" racks and give it a try.

By the time I got to the steering column I was starting to wonder if he was trolling me. Anything can be installed in anything else if you change enough other parts. Many vendors on ebay are offering racks which they claim will fit S70, V70, and 850. I’ll ask about bundling the subframe from the veh...

You have a very elaborate way of saying “ no”, Rick. I find that admirable. Are you accepting new students at this time?

I understand that the TRW and SMI inner tie rod ends are different, but if a used rack come with tie rod ends will it fit any P80? Or, more particularly, can I put an S/V70 rack on my 850?

I'm just here
for the oversteer...

If I were mounting one of those I'd be looking at Unbrako for something in stainless:

https://www.unbrakousa.com/#

Despite their comical sounding name they are the world leader in high strength bolts.

Is it safe to say that if the TB is gummy there may be a sludge problem elsewhere?

I’m a big fan of Mobil1 “European car formula”, but I don’t have a turbo, so probably a wide variety of oil would work fine.

Dark haired, youthful Robert explains:

I think the usual process is to run the engine with the drain cock open, while pouring distilled water into the reservoir. But the question I haven’t found an answer to is how you then get an accurate 50-50 mix when you’re done flushing, which is important for hot weather cooling as well as freeze p...

Is there a swaged flange like on the high pressure power steering hose(where the o-ring fits), in addition to the compression sleeve?

There are a few listings on ebay for SS compression fittings in M16x1.0 and M16x1.5 for 12MM tubing.

Is that a metal shaving in the threads of the fitting?

Every Bosal muffler I've ever bought has had rust on the welds right out of the box.

abscate wrote: ↑Thu Jul 30, 2020 6:07 pm I wonder if the replacements are better than the originals. We had our first trouble with Freon loss in 2006, and I looked at the 2013 replacement and it’s pristine

We cannot completely rule out the possibility of progress.

I believe when the engine's not running the high and low sides equalize and the evaporator can have upwards of 100 psi in it. At 100° the PT chart shows 124 PSIG: https://www.forane.com/export/shared/.content/media/downloads/products-documentations/fluorochemicals/forane-134a-pressure-temperature-ch...

Why only 3 PSI? Why not 100?

abscate wrote: ↑Sat Jul 25, 2020 7:44 pm That’s wrong, it’s just wrong,...

Your insightful, well reasoned opinions on eggcrate grills are well known. We support you.

Or were you referring to something else?

CTA 1071 tool is $17.62 from FCP:

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... 0-cta-1071

I'd been improvising for years and they finally got me.

Misha, you are correct that as long as the axis of the puller screw is aligned with the axis of the pump shaft the 3 jaws will pull straight and evenly. If the puller goes crooked and the pulley is really stuck on the shaft there could be damage. Now that sventastic has shown that it works I'll be t...

I'm kind of gobsmacked that the pulley could withstand being pulled that way without bending. The metal connecting the hub to the rim looks pretty thin, I guess it must be really hard. I never would have thought to pull it that way. I'm glad it worked for you!

Anybody used the OTC 4530? It says 1-1/8", 1-1/4", 1-5/16" and 1-3/8". I just measured the hub on my pump and it's 1.165".

https://www.otctools.com/products/power ... ervice-set

You really want an OEM windshield. They last 5 times as long and have no ripples.

The Gates kit is also listed for a large swath of 90's GM products, as well as a lot of Jeep models from that era. Also the last couple of years of Volvo 240's.

Still no luck finding a DIY or a parts diagram.

Well played, sir! I've only done one, that clunkless test drive might have been the most satisfying test drive of my life.

Cork + JB weld?

It's available from all the usual OEM Volvo vendors. Maybe not worth the work, though,

This is the cap blocking the hole which looks about the same size as the oil filler. Mine's really rusty and ugly and new ones are selling for under 6 bucks.

I searched here on the forum and couldn't turn up any stories of replacing this.

I've seen these kits for sale in several places: Edelmann 8794 Gates 348372 Both are in the 5-10 dollar range. I'm thinking that if you don't run the pump dry for an extended period, the only thing that fails is the shaft seal and o-rings. Mine is quiet and still works well, but there is a very slow...

Last fall I was troubleshooting a stalling problem. I managed to rummage up a used scan tool for a pretty good price in the hope that reading some live data would provide some clues. I read data from the cheaper stuff first (which all looked good) before I turned to the MAF. The MAF reading would sp...

I bought a pair of Esco jackstands shortly after I got my first 850. I love the heavy duty
rubber pad on top and the pin style height adjustment:

https://esco.net/products/esco-3-ton-pe ... ack-stand/

Chack, interesting you should mention that. I was just sitting in the car yesterday looking up at the dome light and handles thinking about how they just barely agree with the stock headliner color. They have a warmer tone than the grays in the rest of the interior. Maybe they work better with the 3...

Chuck, nice looking job on the sedan! That looks like standard foam backed headliner. Where did you source that?

Erik, what did you use for fabric?

I went to Jo-Ann Fabric and bought a couple yards of their generic light gray headliner fabric, which looks perfect in the car. About five years later - including three summers in hot, humid Central Texas - it's holding up fine. I used Permatex's headliner adhesive. Thank you! This is the kind of l...

Chuck, that's a very impressive job you did of lining up the pattern! How long since you did it? Is it holding up? Did you figure out some clever way to lift up the fabric to fine tune the positioning? Good point about using 3M headliner adhesive. Temperatures are really high up near the roof, espec...

My headliner is finally bothering me enough to where I'm willing to just grit my teeth and (probably) break some fragile old plastic parts to get it out and back in. My biggest fear is the A pillar trim which you see cracking in Robert's video. Anyway, as I shop for fabric there don't seem to be any...

There is also the Centric 143.39003 rebuild kit. It's the only kit I know of that has the seals which go between the caliper halves.

The best kind of rubber for braking systems is EPDM. O-rings intended to seal oil in engines and hydraulic systems are usually nitrile (buna-n). The proper o-rings to seal the caliper halves have a square cross section, unlike standard o-rings, which have a circular cross-section. The only place I'v...

I live in Minnesota and I've used Akebono exclusively for almost 20 years. It gets cold here. My first set were part of an upgrade including stainless lines on a VW golf. That car had Konis and a wide set of Potenzas on it and I pushed it hard. I thought it was some kind of alien magic that I could ...

T3 neo wedge?

Some scrubbing turned up the identifying marks. While the marks are pretty clear on the right one, they are stamped a lot lighter on the left one.

Why don’t they put a better coat of paint on those things?

I’d buy a few swash plates, if there’s a minimum order from Taiwan.

Do you have much history on this one? Is that scuffed up swash plate just normal wear and tear after 100,00 miles?

Zexel swash plate assemblies, but no prices:

http://johnica.com/new/zexel_ac_swash_plate_assy01.html

Shipping from Taiwan might be expensive/slow.

I fed some words and numbers into google and hit the button. More stuff fell out than I expected.

https://www.ackits.com/santech-compress ... 3g-dks15bh

I've always wanted to do this, the main deterrent was the time it would take to go down the rabbit hole to source the internal parts. The inside is every bit as beautiful as I had imagined.

I’m hoping most of this applies to 850’s. Is this true?

I rent workshop space in an industrial building and the shop next door rebuilds totaled cars. The driveway is littered with sections of cars which were cut apart with an abrasive wheel. He welds them in to fix the damage and sells the cars.

The guy who runs the shop is named Hakim.

Several years ago I picked up the used cam sensor in my junk box to look at it and the connector crumbled In my hand.

A sophisticated modern body shop could weld in a section from a donor car.

Thanks, I think that's the 9151675 / 9151676 ones? They're cheaper.

If I have to DIY I was thinking maybe of heatshrink tubing. It has the right level of sheen and holds up really well in the weather.

All are available, but expensive.

I looked at the Ate kit and several others which all lacked the two little o-rings, so I just bought the Ate one. I guess I should have looked a little harder!

I'm considering just spending the money. The thought of just snapping them on and having them look good for another 10 years is kind of appealing. Maybe when I get actual prices I may decide that electrical tape looks pretty good after all. Not a fan of the polished aluminum. There seem to be two po...

Because the inevitable entropic slide to the S=Smax condition has been arrested for a brief moment I just love this level of detail. 95% of the time there is one and only one part number which will work in a particular application, and abscate puts them right there in the subject line along with a ...

Every time I see a part number in a subject line it makes me smile. It just never fails.

Fitment confirmed! These are, in fact, the real deal. PMB appears to have a well deserved sterling reputation in the vintage Porsche community. If you're not a putzy weirdo like me, you probably don't have to worry about these, just clean them up what you have and reinstall them. However, if you pic...

I'm ready to move on a set of light grey ones.

I just ordered 10 o-rings from this Porsche and Alfa brake specialist: https://www.pmbperformance.com/catalog/item/8778691/9694936.htm They are square cut EPDM o-rings. Many of the vintage Porsche and Alfa-Romeo cars came with smallish 2 piece Ate rear calipers which look very similar to the Ate rea...

Yes, I already have the Ate brand kit, but the o-rings which seal the caliper halves are never included in any rebuild kit. The old ones were sealing OK, so maybe I'll just put them back in.

My best guess on the size of these o-rings is that the inside diameter is 6mm(.236"), the outside diameter is 11mm(.433"), and the thickness is 3mm(.118"). The pocket machined in the caliper measured .420" inside diameter and .100" deep. The .013" interference fit would grip them nicely and hold the...

I live in Minnesota. I have an H7: Assembling the air intake is a bit of a pain and I had to mod the clip a little, but it works.

Can type1 and 2 be identified by the connector? Some have bullets and others have a brown Tyco/Amp JPT.

RickHaleParker wrote: ↑Sat Apr 04, 2020 7:29 pm Pull the part numbers on them and post the numbers here.

If it were that simple I certainly wouldn't be bothering you guys! Maybe I'm looking right at the numbers but I can't find any.

I've got a couple used ones. Is there a way to identify the left and right without plugging them in and operating them? All the pictures I'm finding by searching look the same.

Thanks for the reports, keep them coming! I'm hoping somebody who's bought a rebuilt axle will offer a review. The new parts they sell seem to be lower mid-grade Chinese, perhaps a notch below Moog. Wheel bearings are getting bad reviews on youtube, though some people like the brake rotors and feel ...

Anybody run one of these for a while?

Price is ridiculously low (in the $175 range) and while they will pay $10 for your old one, they don't require a deposit. They claim these are rebuilt in the US and tested under pressure prior to shipment.

I think Michael Osterolm is the gold standard in this field. Here he is being interviewed by Joe Rogan, with some bonus opinions on chronic wasting and Lyme:

I seem to recall clamping the vise grip on the exposed shock rod in the wheel well, and I think it bumped into something and couldn't rotate.

ABA "made in Sweden" hose clamps are readily available from many sources. I recently bought some for about $4 each, delivered. I like the Ideal clamps also, but they are quite hard to find with a narrow band. It is, however, unsightly to see the rubber of the hose squishing through the slits which a...

Maybe you could drop us a hint on where you usually shop for "any material" o-rings?

Thinking about this because mine is getting brittle. Is it even theoretically possible to do this with the engine in the car?

Thinking about this because mine is getting brittle. Is it even theoretically possible to do this with the engine in the car?

Any sources? No number on parts diagrams because, obviously they intended that you'd replace the whole unit with a rebuild. But splitting the calipers makes the cleaning and inspection process drastically easier and I can't imagine any caliper rebuilding shop doing the job without splitting them, so...

I'm just stunned that you would loan that car, TBH.

Glove box light was the culprit in my case. Switch was right on the edge of working, so it was unpredictable. I pulled the bulb and the problem ceased.

I guess I'm just trying to affirm that the reason it's a total PITA to do this stuff from the topside is because that's a different approach from the one used by the dealer and the factory.

I have a friend who worked at Borton Volvo in Mpls. for about 10 years and I asked him about this. I think he said they liked to take the whole works out from below. That's probably how they assembled them at the factory.

Has anybody used a geared torque multiplier?

Thanks for all the input! I have a bit more money and the Behr price has declined so it's a no brainer now. FCP lists it as made in France and the Nissens made in China.

It's kind of remarkable that after all these years Swedish Car Parts still hasn't solved the stink.

OK, thanks. Yes, I know Behr is a Volvo supplier, but at the time when I started shopping for one 5+ years ago I was reading a lot of stories of Behr cores failing, usually where the tubes were molded directly into the plastic. Thanks for your positive report. Did you just take it out of the box and...

ecbsykes wrote: ↑Sat Feb 22, 2020 9:50 pm Get the Behr for about $80 on FCP. It's the OE part and should be just as good as the blue box. Nissens is also fine quality.

Have you used either of them?

Hi, I installed one of the Swedish Car Parts "Made in Europe" heater cores several years ago. It smelled pretty bad for the first year or so. Toward the end of the second winter it died down to where it was tolerable, but it hasn't really diminished at all since then. Mostly it's a hot plastic kind ...

Magnaflow cat-back and yellow Bilsteins, but kept the stock springs. Enough ride height to get through the snow, plus enough travel to only hit bottom on the worst potholes, and no detectable roll or dive.

So you cant just tell Lseat you want one to match interior code 3960?

Would that fit an 850?

I got frustrated and gave up on VOL-FCR. I found an iCarsoft i906 for about $70 used on ebay and it works perfectly. Reads and resets ABS, SRS, transmission, and Volvo specific engine codes. Reads live data, too.

Your car may not be a '96, there's nothing like that on my '96.

Actively looking now, I'll be watching this thread. *If* Robert can get OEM level quality I think he'll need to charge closer to $300. I'm willing and able to pay more than that for above OEM quality.

I'd buy four sets in dark grey immediately.

People are pretty good at unloading these when the tranny is about to take a crap. I'd just put a rebuild in the budget and be pleasantly surprised if it's not needed.

I'm really not sure what you're supposed to use 31 for. The Bosch 0 261 231 046 discrete knock sensors look like the picture below, with male connectors. Maybe in the early years there were knock sensors with female 2 pin connectors? The part number (1270492) associated with 30 (pair of knock sensor...

Clearly marked with the proper part number. Here I applied a filter to the relevant area of the picture they have at www.volvopartswebstore.com so you can see the connectors better, and also enlarged the relevant area of the parts diagram(#31). The connectors are male, just like the knock sensors th...

I just went from my summer wheels (16" with Goodyear Eagle GT's) to my winter wheels (15" with Michelin X-ice) and the ride is *dramatically* more comfortable. The rubber of a summer tire or an all season tire which is biased toward the "summer performance" end of the all season spectrum is formulat...

Okay, I got the wiring harness (9442158) and it has 2 male plugs on it, just like the plugs on the knock sensors. WTF? It's number 31 on the parts diagram, and right next to it is number 30, which is described as "knock sensor". It says "made in Finland" on it though, which is pretty cool. A little ...

Done! Thank you! Junkyard for the harness and/or connectors - very, very cheap and you have several to choose from in Minneapolis. It's about a 50 mile round trip to the u-pull, but they do currently have a few P80's. I'd need to make it worth my while. The shell of the connector in the picture is ...

cn90 wrote: ↑Fri Nov 08, 2019 6:14 pm Delete the pump and put a diode in.
Info in forum.

Do you use a remote starter, and finish your coffee while the cat warms up? Mine smells really terrible after a cold start. Like, girlfriend yelling "I hate this stinky car!" bad. It sounds like CIK7 has a similar problem.

You'll want a multimeter in addition to a fully charged battery. It's really tough to effectively diagnose charging system problems without knowing what the voltage is.

CIK7 it's amazing that you still have a working pump! Scott, how long have you been running the pump with the drain hole? Is this really the simple effective solution? I live in a cold climate, my air pump is dead, and the car stinks pretty bad when it's cold, so I'd like to get the system working a...

Thanks, Rick! I've got one of those harnesses on the way. It was probably a squirrel. They're bad around here. I hope I can get it installed without lifting the intake manifold. Your VIN decoding matches what I found. Hopefully one of the mods will take pity on me and update this thread title so I l...

I was expecting to find a bunch of corrosion, but I found that both wires to the knock sensor had been severed. I could cobble something together with butt splices, but the wire stubs are pretty short to work with. Does anybody know where I could buy a new connector or a pigtail? I know it's a "juni...

Knock sensors failures are really unicorns, I would skip that. Most likely oxidation on the connector. All I had to do to get rid of the accelerometer code was reseat the connector. The last time I had my MAF plug off I looked at the pins and they were all dark with oxidation. I've got some Deoxit ...

5546T That list I linked to here at MVS says clearly right at the top of the page: "CODES: 1996 TO 1998 VOLVOS", but it does seem to be crowd sourced. I did several more tests today and confirmed that if the EFI-433 is active at startup it won't run in closed loop mode. Clearing the code magically w...

850oldschool wrote: ↑Wed Nov 06, 2019 10:14 am
I'm quite skeptical that a fault with any of the other three sensors which are (potentially) bonded to the common ground at pin 28 could cause the accelerometer fault if the accelerometer ground is intact.

Of course that should be TWO other sensors, three total.

We can go back and make all those folks look bad with a simple title change. Sometimes the sea of information in the internet drowns us. Not sure what your saying here. Could this thread title be corrected by a mod? Rick, thanks for the background info! When I look at the diagram I'm quite skeptica...

RickHaleParker wrote: ↑Tue Nov 05, 2019 10:05 am TP3911202 is 1996 850.

This is TP3907202 1995 850.

2019-11-05 (1).png

This is a bit embarrassing. After I started this thread I went back and discovered that the car is a 96, not a 95. That 95 diagram you posted is considerably different.

If it's this hard to figure out what is throwing the system into open loop operation, I would say that the system doesn't
even qualify as "basic diagnostics".

redundant paths.png I'm reading a PDF scan of a paper manual, TP 3911202. I put red lines on the two current paths from the acceleration sensor to the ECU pin 28. This is an ISO 9141 car. I didn't know they used CAN. Last night I pulled and reseated the connector on the acceleration sensor, but I w...

I'm new to reading these wiring diagrams, so I can't tell if there is a wire which runs straight from pin 2 of the accelerometer and also a redundant wire through 23/221, or if it's an either/or situation.

Okay, I've cleared the P1308 a couple times. When I switch to the Volvo specific codes it always comes back as an EFI-433/EFI-444 combination. So, I get the knock sensor code, as well as the accelerometer code when the car is sitting there idling. I see from the wiring diagram that the negative wire...

I've spent hours reading about OBD2 over the last 2 weeks, and I have to say that the fuel system status readout in the generic OBD2 mode is by far the least documented part of OBD2. What I know so far is that "OL-DRIVE" is when the ECU makes a decision to temporarily suspend closed loop operation d...

Small screwdriver through square hole in clamp and tip against hook to lever into place.

Okay, so what I seem to have figured out here is that my P1308/EFI-444 is causing the engine to run open loop. I cleared the code, started the engine to see if it came back instantly (it didn't), then flipped down to short term fuel trim and found it working normally. Reading "fuel system 1" returne...

I usually spread the ears of the snap ring with a small screwdriver as I slide the joint back on and it just takes a few light taps. It should slide on easily without the snap ring. If the joint is on all the way the snap ring will rotate easily when you push it with a small screwdriver.

Hi, I recently acquired a scan tool and I've been looking at all the available data. Something which seems odd is that the short term fuel trim is always exactly zero. When I graph it it's a flat line, with min and max values of zero. Is this normal? I was expecting a jagged line continuously moving...

I recently picked up a used iCarsoft i906 for $70 on ebay. It claims it will do engine, transmission, airbags, and ABS. My car is a manual and I've only used the engine diagnostics so far.

Thanks for the tip on the knock sensor! I'm reading ECT data on my scanner for both temp and voltage. Temp is between 98 and 103 and voltage is around 2 volts. Can I trust that? Also reading IAC data which is close to the MAF numbers at idle and the range where you expect the IAC to be operating. Ca...

Today I drove it to the tool store (Delegard Tool in Mpls.-recommended!) to buy this: http://www.langtools.com/sku-74853-small-schrader-right-angle-adapter/ Which they had in stock for about 12 bucks, so now I can easily hook a fuel pressure gauge up. After about 10 minutes of hot soak while I was i...

It sounds like you are having a similar issue to the one I'm having with my 96 NA. Mine also starts up and runs fine until it gets thoroughly warmed up after a little "rest", but it's been getting worse. Have you pulled the codes yet? Does it stall less in cool weather? I was playing with my new (to...

I cleared the codes and the ones that came right back are: EFI-433 rear knock sensor EFI-444 accelerometer EFI-445 SAS pump I didn't check resistance of the ECT sensor, but the coolant temp reading on my scanner has been in the 98-103 range, which seems normal. I watched the live data from the MAF a...

Do you have the shaft clamped in a vise?

Thanks for the thoughtful reply! The cap, rotor, plug wires and plugs are all less than a year old, only the coil is original. The wires are Bougi's and the plugs are Volvo. It starts immediately, before it even completes one revolution, and I'm still amazed at how smooth it idles. Whether it's stal...

I've been working on this problem for a couple of months. It only happens when the engine is thoroughly hot, usually after at least 20 minutes. The car starts instantly and has full power until the problem occurs. I first noticed it when I would be cruising at highway speed and then hit some dense t...