One trick I use for removing stubborn torx and Allen screws is to put valve lapping compound (a paste of oil and aluminum oxide abrasive) on the driver bit. Also sharpening the bit with a bench grinder right before using it.

Abscate has figured out a clever way to obfuscate "FAG" by referring to their parent company. We are impressed.

https://aftermarket.schaeffler.com/en/wheel-bearing

I've got the water pump off. Does the coolant pipe have to be removed for this to fit properly?

Can the inner timing belt cover be replaced with the engine in the car? It seems like it's supposed to wrap around the water pump housing, but after a lengthy struggle I can't get it in place. If you've put one in let me know what the trick is. Or, if you've put one on an engine that's out of the ca...

454cid wrote: ↑15 Jan 2023, 20:24 Do our engines have block drains?

There is something that looks like it might be a drain on the back side of the engine near where the water pump bolts on. It looks like a supersized brake bleeder.

I've seen two like that. I've always wondered why they didn't use the standard black plastic JPT connector there.

If you apply oil, make sure to rinse it out of the drive recess with solvent, because the lubrication will make it easier for the bit to twist out without loosening the screw.

It can also be helpful when removing stubborn torx or allen screws to dip the driver bit in abrasive valve lapping compound. The abrasive grit helps the bit grip the inside of the screw head.

I wonder if it would make any sense to pull the connector off the ECT sensor and plug in a potentiometer or resistor in its place for testing.

At this point I would probably take the timing belt off and spin the rollers and the water pump by hand and wiggle them. It sounds like one of the rollers to me.