Hello, I have finally succumbed and am now looking for help with this issue.

My 1998 Volvo S40 1.8 has the Fenix 5.1 system, which has made any OBD scans super difficult. Thus I have tested lots of things manually.

What I've done so far:
- Checked fuel pressure (ok).
- Replaced fuel pressure ...

Turned out the tensioner was bad, figured that out when I was trying to install the bushing... The reluctor was fitted correctly though. I'll have to get a new tensioner before I can do anything else

I made sure that none of it got into the oil passages. Applied a very thin layer of it, too, spread it out evenly with a sponge paint roller, so I doubt it's a problem. Haven't heard any noises from anything else. I really don't want to completely undo the cam cover either, as it was a pain to clean ...

I'm pretty sure I got it right on the first try, then tried it upside down just to check and it didn't sit properly, so I put it back to normal again. It seemed to sit properly when I installed it, but I'll look at it tomorrow. I still suspect my cam cover did it though as it made a similar noise ...

Yeah it seems to happen once every full turn for the camshafts. I loosened every cam cover bolt again just to test. The cams sat too hard, the timing belt skipped when I tried to pull it one turn and apparently it's done that 3 times already when trying to crank the engine as it was 4 teeth off ...

Hello, I've replaced my head gasket and other gaskets, but after reassembling the engine it simply won't start. It cranks, but all of a sudden there's a high pitched metal scraping noise from what sounds like the cams, and the engine dies - however it's possible to crank it again after that, with ...

Sorry for disappearing for a month - I simply haven't had time to work on my car. Now that I have though, I'll share the news. We had the old bolt machined out and fixed the intake manifold, as well as replacing the intake gasket and I ended up making my own gasket for the throttle valve. I've also ...

Did you checked IAT values with multimeter?

Once it checks ok....we will proceed to MAP.

If it is ok....we will attack FPR.

If all of that checks out ok....then your brand new o2 is bad(it happens) or you have a vacuum leak which needs to be fixed and which can affect ALL related sensors and ...

Does the problem go away once the car is full up to temp after 20 minutes or so, or will it persist through a long drive?

It used to work smoothly once the temperature stabilized, but this only happened if I let it idle (the engine refused to get to work temperature when I was driving ...

misha wrote: 27 May 2020, 16:52Key in pos.II?

Yep, obviously