Volvo help, forum + news for all models

1999 & 2000 models have chipped keys for U.S market.
Eu market got them in '96.
I'm affraid that you must visit a dealer.

Check the Bosch number on it...it will be Bosch 0 280 217 107.
Yes...they are cheaper in U.S.

You mentioned flashing CEL....that always indicates that engine is misfiring.

Yes you can.
Use ONLY Aisin or SKF water pump.
Just make sure that you remove ALL of the old water pump gasket.
However...you will need to remove timing belt and set timing again after water pump replacement.

If you can find serial db9 to OBDII cable(Vag-Com kkl) i can send you Vol-Fcr via email.
Other than that...you can remove and clean out front abs sensors because....since they are magnetic...they can be fouled up with metal debris from pads and rotors.

Regular fuel pressure for your year is around 43 psi. Hopefully issue is simple. Neil. YES...but.... For cars with FPR at fuel rail which is vacuum controlled: -1st prime without starting the car 43.5psi -at idle around 35psi -at WOT in high rpms...again 43.5psi M4.4 cars with FPR at the back near ...

Main fuel injection relay is the grey one on cooling fan shroud.
Fuel pump relay operates just fuel pump.

Check fuses first.

...I just installed an Aisin (?) (volvo) water pump. In the box was a prominently printed note warning you NOT to rotate the impeller without coolant in there to lubricate things. So, the bearing itself is sealed, but the tolerances are so close (at least on the OEM pump) that the impeller will sco...

If you scan the srs module....the code will be remain stored untill cleared with a proper scan tool.

Shhhh!(knock on wood)

Not stock!

B5(5CYL)25(2.5L)4(4valves per cyl).
You have 2.5(2435cm3) engine.
VIN number will reveal actual year of production.

Problem is Lucas(read aftermarket) ignition leads.
These cars will ONLY run properly on Bougicord(oem) leads.
Even Bosch leads won't last long.

Fuel pump check valve is integrated in fuel pump output line(in the sleeve where fuel comes out).

Flashing CEL always indicates misfiring.

Could be fuel pump check valve.

I can't say anything about that since my is automatic.
Wait for members which have cars with manual transmission to chime in.

There are known good and reputable aftermarket brands but there are also too much junk aftermarket brands.
Avoid everything you never heard about before.
Bendix ,Ate ,Sachs are excellent aftermarket brands,and in most cases,they are oem parts for most car makes including Volvo.

ATE or Bendix would also be oem quality.
That FTE....never heard of it.
I'm 99.9% sure that it's junk...right out of the box...since i never heard about that aftermarket brand.
You have a warranty...return it and demand oe,ATE or Bendix.

'95-'97 one.

1.Headlights are interchangeable with newer model headlights as long as you use thicker headlight trim from newer model.In addition to that...you will also need side lights from newer model. Hoods and fenders are the same for all model years,except that fenders from '95-'97 have wider plastic trim. ...

I never tried h & m buttons to change C to F or 24h clock to am and pm...but it should also change readings on board computer for fuel consumption from km to miles.

Doesn't that changes also affect speedometer to read from km to miles and vice versa?

Read this from the beginning:
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=92261&hilit=Speedom ... c&start=30

If it's in pretty warm climate you can use 10w-40 all year round. 5w-40 also. You don't need 0w-40 since 0w is for temperatures below -30C. Do not use xx-30 because it is for ambient temperatures UP to 20C! https://www.google.com/amp/s/volvo850wagon.wordpress.com/2013/07/21/engine-oil-consumption-ty...

That is the problem,the new cluster is still displaying speed in miles ....is ambient temperature in C or in F on display?

It's not because of tyres:
https://tiresize.com/comparison/

Speed error is minor.

Are both clusters in miles?
Fuel in gallons or liters?

bcfischer wrote: ↑Wed Aug 26, 2020 11:21 am ...If I wait for the pump to prime and then stop, and THEN turn the key to the key III position, it starts predictably well...

Then there is no problem.
The system is designed to work like that.

You need to prime it(turn the key in pos.II and wait 2sec untill fuel pump stops),then start the car.

I installed tailgate from '98 v70 to my 850, 3 years ago. Since v70 tailgate have upper LED 3rd brake light you just have to tap into rear tail stop light wiring(i tapped into passenger's side stop light). Pay attention on polarity since LED needs correct polarity. No burnt bulb warning light when y...

Vol-Fcr up to '99.

June...5w-30 is not fine with the clouds of blue smoke he have. Even Volvo ambient temperature diagram shows that it's NOT suitable for summer temperatures above 30C. Engine is obviously not happy with it. 5w-40 is more suitable or 10w-40. Might be bad turbo,might be bad rings or bad valve stem seal...

Not all engines likes the same oils,abscate allready pointed that out. Some of them are thinner and some of them are more viscous for the same viscosity which depends on brand of oil. They are all within spec for the same viscosity but the numbers are slightly different from brand to brand on viscos...

It's too thin for the age and mileage of the engine. That's why i asked about viscosity. Switch to 10w-40 semi-synth high mileage oil like Total,Castrol,Mobil....and oil consumption along with puffs of blue smoke will be greatly reduced...around 50%. If that doesn't help....you will need head rebuil...

What oil viscosity you use?
I get a puff of blue smoke when i hit gas pedal from a stop after idling a bit and that's it.
No smoke at acceleration or in any range of rpms after that.
Spark plugs are clean and healthy which is a sign of good combustion.

Be cautious about driving it too long with leaking valve stem seals, as the leaking oil will cake onto the valves and eventually burn out your valves, which is much more money and work than just fixing the stem seals. :-) I have leaky valve stem seals for last 10+ years. ;) Engine burns a liter of ...

For future coolant replacement,remove the lower radiator hose.
Petcock removal is always a risk.

Pressure in the cooling system should never exceed 150kpa....at idle,at mid throttle or wot! It's operating pressure is UP TO 150kpa in all rpm range,driving conditions and gas pedal position. Hoses are the weakest points,they should blow off first. It could be that your expansion tank cap is at fai...

What brand of Maf did you installed? If it isn't oem Bosch 0 280 217 107 this is what you could expect. Normal behavior of the engine when maf is unplugged is pointing you that Maf is bad(or it's connector,which is prone to failure)and good news are that the cat is NOT plugged. Also note that....whe...

Yes....but if it wraps around crankshaft when it brakes(it happens)....it pulls the timing belt with it.

If you have battery warning light ON,along with all other lights on bulb check with key in pos.II,thin wire is ok. Alternator or voltage regulator is faulty. I would remove it and take it to a car electrician to have it tested. Then you will know if you need a replacement alternator or just a voltag...

It was easy enough to google the volvo 1275638.

As abscate said....it's insane that longer belt fits tighter than shorter belt.
Proper length and part# is 6PK 1743 for whatever brand of belts.
6PK=6 channels
1743=length of the belt.

I just checked....yes it's Contitech(Continental) 6PK 1743.

Continental & Contitech is the same. Conti also. Continental Conti are tyres,Contitech are belts(rubber and plastic). I have Continental serpentine belt installed 2 years ago. I'll check the numbers from the belt if you want. It should be 6PK 1743. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Continental-6PK1743-Serpen...

Do you have battery warning light with key in pos.II(bulb check)?
Is it ON while engine is running?

All wagon tail lights up to '96 have this problem.
'96-'00 don't have this problem anymore because Volvo decided to use higher quality plastic and protection for tail lights.

B5252 is 10v engine.

I was replacing coolant today with Basf Glysantin G48 and took a look at underside with splash guard removed. It looks like ac compressor can be removed from the bottom through the opening where ac reciever/dryer canister is,but canister must be removed first. That would not be a problem since i fou...

Mstrshkbrnnn wrote: ↑Thu Aug 20, 2020 4:13 pm ...I definitely did not do this. Just curious though, what happens if you do?

Fried alternator,relays in fuse box if you are lucky....ecu(s) sometimes survive.

Thin wire is above the thick b+ on alternator.
Get readings from b+ and alt housing.

Thin wire is a signal wire for warning lamp and it's "awakening" for the alt.
Without it or if it's shorted somewhere...alt will not have an output.

Measure the output from the alternator directly with multimeter....positive probe on b+ and negative on alternator housing while engine is idling. If you don't have 13.8-14.2v ....alternator is shot...or voltage regulator. Also check a little thin wire above the b+ terminal...if it's disconnected or...

Nope...my original black cap is 150kpa just like green one.

Somebody said...long time ago here on MVS....that all black caps were born bad and should be replaced with green one...but i don't remember for what reason.

Thanks ...i'll keep the green one for spare...since the original black one is ok.

That's how it works,it is pulsing...usually at idle(or when ecu ask for it) will make clicking sound,indicating that it is working.
Nothing wrong with it...it works properly.

Mine black cap is still original....no cracks,no leaks,maintains pressure.

I just replaced expansion tank because the old one had a hairline crack on return sleeve and it was seeping coolant a bit....slow seep but i wanted to sort that out. The replacement is original Volvo,used one,but it came with green cap.Pressure is the same...150kpa. I swapped my old black cap just i...

Not necessarily....after you remove the key from ignition....just wait around 10-15 minutes for main injection relay to go in sleep mode(to click off).

...and maybe was flashed after a manual swap.
You can't know for sure...but notes on it could mean that it had manual software installed.

Try it....with key in pos.II you should have flashing arrow....if not....it isn't flashed.

Generally,ecu(s) are not interchangeable because of software differences. The car will run with it,but not properly. Transmission will not shift properly because look up table for auto trans is missing...orange arrow will be ON,idle will not be adequate...and you will be risking to ruin your auto tr...

225/45/17 is the widest that can fit on s,v,xc70 with standard ET43. 3mm spacers will rule out any possible rubbing. 215/45/17 is the widest option for 850 but 205/45/17 is troublefree option. 235/45/17 (235 width generally)is too wide and if you are going to keep them....then you will need spacers ...

To be more precise...S80 T6 have 272hp.

S90 is nicer

Maybe it's something with Denso management...but i really never heard that bad or unplugged MAF will force cooling fan to come on. MAF is MAF it's reading air mass on whatever car make. Unless it share the same ground with ECT and because of that...when you unplug Maf,ect loose it's ground and force...

Maf sensor have nothing in common with cooling fan or ECT... as far as i know. It measures intake air mass not intake air temperature. Btw....when MAF is disconnected it should idle just fine ...without fluctuations...and certainly not that wide fluctuations from 700-1300rpm. That is pointing that y...

If sas valve fails,the condensation(water)from exhaust valve will go through air pump and then be sucked into intake,passing by MAF sensor and damage it.

Engine...not without modifications...cap & rotor vs.coil packs,etm...etc.
Transmission... if it's auto....NO.

Camshaft control fault position can be the reason for rough idle.
I'm surprised that it runs with that code.
It's either that camshaft is at wrong position or camshaft sensor is faulty.

Usually....the engine should run ok with Maf disconnected.
What are the codes?

Read the thread:
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=18502&hilit=Fix+for ... low+wipers

eightfifty2x0 wrote: ↑Sun Aug 09, 2020 1:47 pm ...Hvala ti, brate

Nema na cemu!

Air pump and it's relay are under driver's side fender.

...You mean turbo charged cars require a different oil that naturally aspirated ones? Generally....turbo engines should use full synthetic oil because of a turbo(it will last longer and will have better lubrication in all conditions). Non-turbo can use regular oil,semi-synth or full synthetic...wha...

Srs module is under hand rest at center console.
Any '95 srs module will be just plug and play.

Sas solenoid must be connected and sas valve plugged or removed and manifold port plugged.

Other than that....cut the red wire from air pump relay(positive feed for air pump).

If all above is covered....than there is a possibility that you fried a diode while soldering.

140 pressure reading is still low is it not? Neil It wouldn't run that good Neil. My guess is that gauge is not reading properly or didn't seated properly. Just found this: https://www.google.com/amp/s/blog.fcpeuro.com/how-to-do-a-compression-test-on-a-5-cylinder-volvo%3fhs_amp=true Check compressi...

They are interchangeable.

Disconnecting battery will reset ecu and fuel trims....and that's a must after replacing any sensor on these cars.

Resetting codes with scan tool doesn't reset fuel trims just CEL and a good practice is to remove negative battery cable for about 15-30 min. after any sensor replacement.

Super granny with T5

Crankcase pressure...you can try with upgrade if that bothers you.

If i remember correctly you said that engine use 1 quart/3k miles,that's 1l/5000km...that's nothing. If there are no visible signs that engine use oil (blue smoke from exhaust on WOT or when you decelerate with engine)...i would leave it alone. Upper limit for oil consumption is 1l/1000km. What oil ...

No they are not...except for headlight light pattern and chipped keys which were introduced in '96 for EU market cars.
U.S cars got chipped keys in '99.

Ecc in F in opposite to C.
Instrument cluster....miles vs. km/h and gallons vs.liter...but that is obvious.

Hood from 850 is also not interchangeable with s,v70 and vice versa.
Different shaped headlights ,bumpers and side lights.
The hoods are also different shaped.

abscate wrote: ↑Thu Aug 06, 2020 4:32 am ...Misha, is this right?

I though the S/V70 front ends were identical?

They are abscate.
Grilles for 850 and s,v,c,70 are different shape.
I understand that op asked about interchangeability between 850 and s,v70 grilles.

erikv11 wrote: ↑Wed Aug 05, 2020 2:50 pm Grills are interchangeable.

If you guys mean on hood grill...Grills are not interchangeable...the hood on s,v70 is different shape.

Doors will swap but door cards are not interchangeable and you will need to figure out how to make inside door handles to work since they are in different positions on both cars. Wiring is different too,because power windows switches are in the door cards on s,v70. Blower motor is the same....gloveb...

What 4.2?
There is only LH 3.2 Jetronic in '94 non turbo.

Next year i'm going to full ac system inspection and re-charging....and we will see if we could remove it from the bottom. More i look at it,i have more hope that it can be removed from the bottom if we move the reciever/dryer aside. It will not come out easily,but with some tetris(ing) i hope it wi...

So far so good(knock in wood)!
Zip ties method solved the problem.
Ac is working as it should.
Just finished 2 hour trip and ac blows cold all the time.

I would take it to my ac professional shop to rebuilt compressor or do re-shimming,i would not attempt to perform the job myself,since the system needs to be vacuumed for compressor removal. When it needs to be removed,i would tell them to check the compressor in detail...if clutch needs to be repla...

First time ac compressor problems during the ownership. It's a classic case of worn-out clutch and excessive gap. Yesterday was pretty hot day(40C) and ac ran perfect for about 30min. All of a sudden it stopped blowing cold air...system professionally recharged and inspected last year in Aug. I open...

ET 50?
Nope!
ET 49 is the highest offset which can fit 850 and NOT wider than 205 tyre with this ET.

No problem if you install spacers.

Us market got s,v70 in '98.
Eu market had them in '97.

That's why it doesn't appear in search for '97.

With sensor connected or disconnected?
Resistance should be checked when sensor is disconnected.
If you checked resistance with sensor connected,you could damage ecu.

You really need to scan for codes.

Take it back...it's obvious that it's bad right out of the box...or you didn't reset fuel trims after new sensor replacement.

How do you know that heater on o2 is bad?
Did you read the codes?
Mileage is pretty low for o2 sensor failure.

How is oil consumption between changes or at 1.000 km/miles?
Usually rings doesn't go bad if engine is maintained well,but valve stem seals DO go bad at about that mileage.

What is condition of the turbo?

Remember....every time you need to replace sensor(o2,maf,ect...etc) you need to remove negative battery cable for 15-30min in order to reset fuel trims. About o2 sensor....write down Bosch or Denso numbers from it('01 should have Denso management)and buy o2 sensor with exactly the same numbers and f...

When they are on when you unlock the doors,they should go off after a minute or so or immediatelly after you turn the key to pos.II.

There is a timer relay which controls those lights,but i don't know where it's located.

They should turn off immediatelly after the car is locked.
Otherwise...they turns off after a minute or so.
There should be three positions of the switch...always off,on/off with doors opened or closed and always on.
Check if switch is in proper position.

If the o2 sensor is aftermarket and not OEM...it's bad right out of the box.
These cars will not run properly,or not run at all,on aftermarket sensors.

Thermostat was allready been replaced then...because OE Volvo (Wahler)for non-turbo is 90-92C...(92C for very cold climate area).
87C for turbo engines.

Read the codes...you have diagnostic ports under the hood.
You just need a pencil and a piece of paper to write them down.
A2 & A6 ports...engine and ignition ecu.

...Eventually it will result in an MOT failure in the UK as the rust appears to be localised around the rear seat mount. Why would MOT test require arch liners to be removed? It's funny...because sills(rocker panels) are covered with plastic side skirts.Do they remove them too to inspect sills cond...

That puller tool is designed for things like this.
There are few sizes of the same tool.
Pulley can't be bent because the tool grabs it in 3 points and it push the center while pulls the pulley in 3 points.

Turbo cars sits lower than n/a cars and a lot lower than xc cars. Originally...suspension is a bit stiffer on turbo cars. If you want to be safe in regards of handling...you will need to swap the whole thing....rear XC shocks with springs and front XC shocks with springs. If you don't mind...it will...

I that case...the rear end would sit a lot higher than it should...and again....handling would be compromised because the car will be diving with nose(front end) down.

Ride height will be higher on the side where you would install an XC nivomat.
It will look awfull and handling would be compromised.

Wrong pads.
The 2nd pad on the picture you removed from the car is not for replacement.
It's in excellent shape and have a lot of friction material left.
Replacement should be done when friction material is down at 3mm.

In what shape is a battery? If it doesn't have required capacity(not just voltage,but amps)it will reset the board computer while cranking. So....it could be weak battery,positive and negative battery cables that have high resistance or bad ground. Time for digital multimeter readouts. About instrum...

There is a rumour that board computer needs to be activated at dealer for cars which are not equipped with it originally.

You have a removal tool and o2 sensor.
Go for it.
Remove negative battery cable while you removing the old sensor and re-connect it after you install the new one.
This way you will reset old fuel trims.

All is pretty straight forward and they are all the same,including 850 wagons....why do you need it?

The key is to press on it hard(with the weight of your body)while slowly braking it loose.
This way torx will not skip and strip the bolt.

Maybe it does not affect fuel trim on '95(M4.3 management)...but on my '97 with M4.4 it does.
Both o2 sensors are communicating with each other all the time and if rear one detects that something is wrong it will not just turn on CEL...it will also change fuel trim.

Turbo engines should have 87C thermostat....non-turbo can have both...87 & 90C.
I wouldn't use nothing but Wahler or Vernet when it comes to thermostat.

I was referring on gray one when someone said that they are born bad.
It seems that someones experience is that grey one should be replaced with green.

Mine is somehow gray and it's still original.
Somebody on the forum long time ago said that "they are born bad"....but i never had a problem with it.

Green is a replacement as far as i remember.

Why don't buy used one from a junkyard?
They are not really prone to failure if they are not starved for oil.

When no crank issue appears...try to start it in "N" position.
If it starts...it's PNP switch...if not....it could be ignition switch or starter solenoid.

I had bad b+ cable from battery to starter.
I had almost 1v voltage drop on it when everything is warmed up under the hood.
Cold test was always ok and without voltage drop.

850 wagons have that 10mm nuts on sides.
V70 don't have them...they just slide onto side plastic guides.
Different style bumper covers.

What voltage you have at battery terminals?
You should have 13.8-14.2v at idle with headlights,heater blower 1-3 speed and radio ON.

Nothing is better than Volvo plugs.
There are some members who have great experience with NGK irridium plugs,but i never used them.

If spark plugs are replaced regularly and if you maintain charging system,they can last forever.
DIS system doesn't like low charging output from the alternator and battery must be healthy.

subzerocarfanatic wrote: ↑Fri Jul 03, 2020 11:48 am ...Why do the OEM Volvo ones not come pre set?

Who said that?
They do.
Proper gap setting is for cheap copper Bosch or NGK.

If the numbers match,they are ok.
About spark plugs....gap is critical on turbo engines...so use volvo set of 5 for turbo engines or cheap copper NGK or Bosch and gap them properly.

https://www.rendcarparts.com/volvo/part ... D9125601BO

Nothing aftermarket simply doesn't work on these cars...they are out of spec and while you trying to solve the problem you had before ECT replacement...you simply chase your own tail. ECT sensor on these cars is highly important,like Maf and O2. It's not just temp gauge sensor...it also sends info o...

Meyle ECT???
Only Volvo ECT(which is Valeo) or at least Vernet.
Check ECT connector from wiring loom side.
They are prone to corrosion and damage.

Flashing CEL means that engine is misfiring.

Actually...if SAS valve is stuck open it will let water from condensation to air filter and through the MAF...killing the MAF sensor.

Also...that condensation gets into cylinders,producing intermittent misfire.

I had this long time ago.

Pressurised coolant (50-50 mix)will boil at 120C. Driving with cap off will not overheat the engine as long as it have coolant in the system. There is ECT which will turn on the cooling fan around 100-110C...pressurised or not. Proper pressure in the system is just helping the engine not to overheat...

Neither of those two looks like mine.
Mine are still original.

You will need to remove door panel and check wiring and connections.

Air pump works for a few seconds after starting a cold engine and sometimes at prolonged idle when ecu ask for it. You can delete SAS and still pass inspection with soldering a diode in ecu and leave everything as it is. If your problem is SAS valve,you can also block it and leave all components in ...

So...we are on the right track.

It tries to escape when air bleeding from the system starts.
It's faster procedure and almost no possibility to have trapped air in the system.

It will not blow the cap or tank but can make air pocket in the system.

Don't forget to remove negative battery cable for 15 min in order to reset fuel trims...after you replace it.

Just to remind you that canister purge valve code have nothing to do with this.

I agree with scot850.
I must ad that K&N filters are nothing but trouble.
Oil film from them usually mess up Maf sensor readings and makes more problems than benefits.

That would definately be a lot of unmetered air comming into engine. It's a part of PCV system...a flame trap housing. Check if that is just poped out or it's broken. It's a bayonet fitting...easy to install,but it can be tricky to put back on because there are two hoses attached to the flame trap h...

300/400 series are not even built in Sweden. They are far away from Volvo quality,the worst cars under Volvo brand...with Renault engines(340/440) 1.4,1.7 & 1.8. 360/460 had Volvo engines 2.0 but still....they are far away from Volvo. Same with s,v40('96-'04) only 2.0 petrol engines are from Volvo. ...

Sounds a lot you you guys work on your Volvos. Is burping air out of the system a difficult or critical process after refilling coolant following draining it.? One guy Scottish Brick on swedespeed says not so much, pour it in, drive a mile or so, then top up. Drain the coolant when engine is hot(af...

We also have Volvos in Europe....we have them in the family from '70s....not a single one had rust problems.
Every properly maintained and serviced car will be troublefree.

We are going offtopic a bit BUT i must say this... Mercedes is not that great like most people think. Rust is their weakest spot.They rust pretty badly without notice...and when it is noticed...there is nothing left of the floor or sills. E-class,C-class,A-class suffers the most,where S-class have d...

What hose you guys are talking about? SAS pump hose which is attached on the upper half of stock airbox cover? If so....you will soon have SAS code . If you block it...air pump will blow it when it activates. Your car is equipped with SAS system...so you will need to find the way to connect it on ne...

Things in common are power supply(ignition switch) and ground.

Flame trap flange also have a seal (o-ring) which prevents vacuum leaks between MAF and throttle body. It's a bayonet style mounting.You can't remove lower side plastic adapter from throttle body,on which you mount lower ribbed air hose,without releasing flame trap flange.There is also a hose attach...

It doesn't seal well...that's why you have high idle.Engine is sucking "false" and unmetered air.
Did you re-connect flame trap flange and hose on it?
Also...check that ribbed hose for air induction between maf and throttle body is tight and have no leaks.

Why that MAF sits upside down?

Did you installed a throttle body gasket?

Let's see if new coolant and cap will make things right.

I must have a mad luck....since my tank and cap are still original.
***Knock on wood***

But...wouldn't there be a higher than normal pressure in cooling system?
Cooling system hoses would be pressurised and hard in that case....or i am missing something here.

How come that compression is ok along with cooling system if there is a problem with head?! That is the purpose of the line on top of coolant tank. Compression checks ok,no oil in coolant...no coolant in oil,proper cooling system pressure,doesn't overheat....i don't think that the engine have head p...

I don't know what is the spec for oil pressure...but i think that sensor is faulty here.

I would replace it anyway.

Read this:
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticl ... cement.htm

You didn't understand me well. When splicing into original ecu wiring or adding a clone ecu box for LPG ecu....resistance and voltage for original sensors signal is corrupted(usually) or slightly out of range which makes problems when car is running on petrol. It happens that car runs magnificent on...

LPG system can make things harder to track down. They are almost NEVER installed properly and if it does...installers usually use short-cuts and splice the wiring to install some sensors which are needed for LPG. Those splicing into wiring can corrupt signals for original(factory)sensors which are n...

I'm not claiming that higher viscosity oil would solve your problem,but there is possibility. You should be able to test oil pressure before throwing money again on something you just replaced. There is some gauge which is screwed into the pressure sensor hole while engine is running. That would cle...

Live parameters from all sensors while engine is running and while driving the car...TPS,O2 sensors,Maf,ETM...etc.

I don't have the answer to your question,except that there might be loss of communication in CAN network.

Live data diagnostic should be performed and then you will see what is the problem.

5w-30 and 10w-30 is too thin for the car with that mileage. 5w-40 or 10w-40 would be more adequate. Both of those oils have the same viscosity when engine is at operating temperature(xx-30 index). You might have a problem with oil pressure...but there is a possibility that the light is shorting some...

Does the car run good at all with new engine,ecu and wiring?
Is the only problem with it...not reving past 4k rpm?

It's not that simple....take a closer look at a diagram at the bottom.
All those CAN symbols goes through some module,not just those that you mentioned.

Every single module in the car is connected with each other via CAN network.

Not possible!

What engine did you had in s70?

What oil viscosity you have in the engine?
What oil filter you installed?

If oil is too thin for the mileage and condition of the engine...oil pressure will not be adequate.

If oil filter is something aftermarket without built-in check valve....oil pressure will be compromised.

Problem is in CAN network which introduced in '99 with ME7 management. You can't just swap ecu in these cars because they are "married" with the car. They need to be re-programmed to match with your car and ALL other modules in the car. It's a dealer thing,unless you can find some good tuner who can...

I said...if freon is low,compressor will not kick in and fan will not turn on as it should...when AC is turned on. That said....if compressor is not working when AC is turned on,because of low level of freon....the fan will also not turn on. Otherwise....the cooling fan should turn on at proper cool...

'95 will have both....OBDI under the hood and OBDII at center console.
From '96 there was only OBDII at center console.

No...you can't enter OBDI codes in OBDII car.

Rocket99 wrote: ↑Fri Jun 19, 2020 11:11 am ...Turned on AC, cooling fan never ran.

If it is low on freon,compressor will not kick in and cooling fan will not run.

Yes...but that setup is pretty rare for '95.
Usually...they are Jetronic.

Open up ecu box. If it's Jetronic...it will have 2 ecu(s) in ecu box....for a car with manual transmission and 3 ecu(s)...for a car with automatic transmission. That said... -2 ecu for engine and ignition for a car with manual transmission -3 ecu for engine,ignition and TCM(transmission control modu...

You can't retrofit OBDI in OBDII car,but you can use flash code reader for ECU and ECC since '96 850 T5 have M4.3 management which still produce flash codes.
All other modules are fully OBDII.

A6?
Being a '95 it should have Jetronic LH 3.2 management will can have 2 separate ecu(s),one for engine and the other for ignition.

I'm with abscate. Since your starter is now stuck....i would say that all that noise you had while you still could start the engine was from a bad starter. It could have stuck it's bendix into a flywheel and blocking it. Before it got stuck into a flywheel....there was a good chance that it interfer...

I don't understand how something in the engine can be broke after injector(s) replacement or rebuilt.
If there were no problems before,there must be something you did wrong during injector replacement....something fell off from injector or something got into manifold openings.

After you replace the hose and correct gap(if it's not gapped correctly),remove negative battery cable for 15min to reset fuel trims.

Vacuum leak is your problem and spark plugs if they are not cheap Bosch copper plugs properly gapped. Gap is critical on turbo engines. That leak is messing with Maf and o2 sensors readings which results in higher fuel consumption. In stop and go traffic with short distances...add there automatic tr...

You have one leaky injector.
Injector MUST not spray fuel with key in pos.II.

First,take the car to ac shop to check freon level.

Email sent!

Thermostat is at fault here...use Wahler(oe,oem) or Vernet.
N/a use 87-90C.
Turbo 87C.
ECT must be oe Volvo(which is Valeo btw) or at least Vernet.

Like upper advice...before change ECT check both connectors for corrosion.
They rarely go bad....mine is still original.

erikv11 wrote: ↑Sun Jun 14, 2020 4:17 pm Measure AC clutch gap at rest, car off. Just reach down there.

So....at rest...when clutch is disengaged,it should be within spec(0.3-0.5mm).

What is a maximum allowable clutch gap,before problems begin?
Never had a problem with ac compressor,but want to be ready for it if needed.

Abscate....
How do you measure clutch gap...when clutch is engaged or at rest(disengaged)?
I know that it should be around 0.3-0.5mm max,but i'm not clear on this.

Fully charged battery reads 12.7v. You will need 14.2-14.4v at battery terminals with engine idling without consumers ON. WITH consumers ON(headlights,heater blower 1-3 speed and radio) 13.9-14.0v. Anything below 13.5v with consumers ON is not enough to keep the battery fully charged. 11.9v is disch...

Yes...ECC is fully OBDII on s,v70('97 & '98).
****'97 EU is '98 U.S.

In what shape is a battery?
You will need to perform a voltage drop test and aternator output when everything is warmed up(after about 30min.of driving),without turning the engine off.

I'll confirm that tommorow when i check my vol-fcr in s,v70 menu.
But i'm 100% sure that ECC on s,v70 is fully obdII.

I would grab Meyle HD!

No flash codes on ECC from s,v70....they are fully obdII. 850 in '97 was the last one which ECC produce flash codes. You will need at least Vol-fcr. BUT...since the ECC doesn't even have a power for a few minutes....you will not be able to communicate with it. There must be a relay for powering ECC,...

If you have just bushings that fail and ball joint is good with no play...you can replace them for 3-4€/each and reuse the control arm.

Do you know how to properly install them?

I got an impression from it's description that it's ECC doesn't even have a power until the car gets hot. Siezed cabin temp sensor will not prevent blower to work,Neil. The only fault which can prevent blower to work is power stage fault. ECC doesn't get a power until 20-30 min after startup.Fuses s...

Honestly, I thinknthey are all junk. I can't remember if I put Meyle on one of my 850ies, but all of them fail biannualy. Every other onspection or so one or teo of them are shot. So be warned, no matter what you use, they won't last nearly as long as the OE units installed in the factory. 1.Meyle ...

Yes....
1.Meyle HD will outlast all others....regular Meyle will not last long.
2.Lemforder(oem)
3.Moog(good quality)
4.TRW(good)
5.Febi(good)
I never used anything from QH,so i can't say anything about their parts.

manovlov wrote: ↑Sun Jun 07, 2020 1:04 pm Hy,

Manov, newbie.

Could it have something to matter with the Mass air flow or the camshaft sensor ?
Capture d’écran 2020-06-07 à 21.00.59.png
Capture d’écran 2020-06-07 à 21.04.04.png

Manov

Nope!

There is no fuse for it.
It illuminates along with cluster and other dashboard and center console lights when you turn on the headlights switch.

Different markets,different prices.
In Switzerland they have even higher prices,doesn't matter if it's high mileage car....if it have fresh control.

But same model,with same equipment and same mileage...in Italy...goes for scrap values.

According to how it looks...VIN will say that it is '95.

Fog light from the 1st picture is for '92-94 850.
They have different bumpers(headlights,side lights,tail lights...etc).

2nd picture with fog light in the bumper is round fog light(spot light,projector) for '95-'97 models.

bmdubya1198 wrote: ↑Sat Jun 06, 2020 11:04 am You should be able to blow through towards the manifold. The arrow points that direction.

Yes...it's one way valve.

I'm talking about ECT wiring....it's connector from the wiring loom side...it gets corroded and sends wrong resistance to ecu.
When wiring have corrosion...the heat makes things worse.As heat goes up...then resistance of bad wire also goes up.

Fuel pressure is ok,like i said.
Time to check ect wiring.
That check valve shouldn't be a problem...but i can't say that for sure.
Is vacuum line(hose)between purge valve and intake ok?

If you want it to be done properly...you will need to pull off the bumper.
Cut from the inside of the bumper following the lines and perform fine finish at the outside.

You will need a FRONT fog light switch and a relay to wire them.

Check pcv box part number.There are 2 kind of pcv box...with different part numbers for '96 & '97 850.
My '97 have exactly the same setup like s,v70 from '97 and '98.

113k is a bit low for valve stem seals,but it also depends was the engine abused and was it maintained regularly.
Could be a turbo too.
If smoke is blue...it's the oil.
If it's black...it runs rich.
If tune wasn't done properly it could damaged the rebuilt turbo.

jonslave wrote: ↑Wed Jun 03, 2020 5:05 pm ...just curious, what is the maximum number of teeth the cams can be off before catastrophe?

Up to 3...more than that is game over.

I never used cam locking tool and never had cams or crank moved when replacing the timing belt.

Higher ET...closer to caliper. That said....higher offset means that wheel is more toward to inside. On p80....the higher et wheels which can be mounted is ET49 and no wider than 205 width tire.That's close enough to the strut. Original ET for P80 is 43. I have factory S80 alloys(which have the same...

Just checked mine.....closed in both directions when engine is not running.

Your's could be failing....since it's closed in just one direction.

Here you can see that a good evap valve is closed in both directions:
https://volvo850wagon.wordpress.com/tag/evap/

Could be a warning for your battery.
Maybe it is low on charge after all "exercise" you were performing with diagnostics while key is in pos.II.

Did you checked IAT values with multimeter?

Once it checks ok....we will proceed to MAP.

If it is ok....we will attack FPR.

If all of that checks out ok....then your brand new o2 is bad(it happens) or you have a vacuum leak which needs to be fixed and which can affect ALL related sensors and fpr.

Key in pos.II?

I know that....I was reffering to the cluster you bought as a replacement...for a quick check of compatibility.

EDIT:
ETS light is at left side of the cluster...just besides srs light.

Did you disconnected it's connector during this test?
It should be closed in both directions when disconnected.

Arrow is pointing towards intake manifold?

Yep...that's the MAP!
http://www.bildelsbasen.se/?link=item&s ... d=24973327

This is how to test it:


Instead of vacuum pump,you can create a vacuum with your mouth and use the vacuum line side from the manifold.

The easiest way to check compatibility is to remove the bulb sockets from right side for warning lights and with a help of flashlight to check if it have ETS light(that's for '99 & '00).

If it have Lambda symbol it's for '97 & '98.

Looks like it's from '99: https://www.usedecus.com/en/volvo/s70/volvo-s70-v70-1999-2-5-petrol-speedometer-instrument-cluster-9472522-9451530-9472725/ At the back of the cluster...part # under VOLVO...towards the left from date production(under PP T40). That number counts. According to production dat...

Can that metal casing be removed?
We need a part number for verification.

It have 3 pin connector(common for MAP) and a vacuum line which goes directly to intake manifold.
What you mean by hand sanitizer?

It should be clean alcohol....without leaving residues.

Post a picture of back side of the cluster....to see Volvo number and the other numbers.
I'll see if i can check them for you.

Part # are different for E.U and U.S market.

EDIT....
Just saw that you're from Portugal....so it is km/h speedo.

Fpr line is routed with a shortcut. :) That on fan shroud could be MAP but i can't see because of it's shield(carrier). Can you take it out of there? IAT could be saved. If it's covered with oil residue it can't sense incoming air temperature. Try to clean it with a tooth brush and some alcohol from...

Just make sure it's from '98.
'99 and '00 will not work because of CAN network.
Physically and visually...they are identical...it's just part number which is different.

Just remove it and blow through it in both directions....if it's closed...it's good.

If you can blow through it,it's bad and stuck open.

It's unpowered state is closed.

That broken bolt can be extracted with extraction drill tool....no need for a replacement manifold.
Extract it and put in a new bolt.

Post a picture tommorow where that white vacuum line goes to the front. It should go to MAP at fan shroud. Also...check FPR vacuum line where it goes...it should go to a vacuum tree at the opposite side of that white line....and should also be white. FPR is at fuel rail....between 1st and 2nd inject...

No lighter!
For Map you measure voltage while applying a vacuum to it's vacuum line and voltage at rest.
YouTube have a lots of videos on how to check Map sensors.

For IAT you measure resistance,just like for ECT.

Power steering fluid quality:ATF.
http://new.volvocars.com/ownersdocs/199 ... .htm#pg134

MoVolvos wrote: ↑Tue May 26, 2020 4:49 pm ...I believe the 98 calls for DEX III (transmission fluid) in the powersteering so the Havoline covers the DEX III and 3309 for the transmission also.

ATF spec doesn't matter for power steering.
The most important thing is that it's red ATF.
Just regular red ATF is fine.

The parts dept at Volvo dealer said DOT 3 ps fluid should work. True or not true? Should work???? NOT TRUE! Don't go to them and don't listen to them! Owners manual says ATF(red) for power steering. Later models use Pentosin,which can also be used in P80 BUT you MUST flush power steering system fir...

Is that black silicone...holding a vacuum tree? MAP is highly sensitive to vacuum leaks and it measures the Manifold Absolute Pressure. That silicone is the source of your problems....what about the bolt hole? That's where the main vacuum leak could be...messing with MAP and O2. Where that white vac...

That oily residue is from oil vapors.It's normal. What you can try about FPR....remove it's vacuum line from vacuum tree,cap the vacuum tree to prevent vacuum leak and start the car...see if idle improves. If it is improved....than you found the culprit. Sometimes FPR can start to leak in vacuum lin...

Just regular red ATF...1l is enough for power steering.

Do you have exhaust leak between exhaust manifold and cat? If so...o2 sensor reading will be corrupted. I can't remember if 10v cars have flexi pipe between exhaust manifold and cat...but if it have and if it leaks...o2 sensor will not work properly.It will send false reading to ecu. Intake leaks wi...

It's EVAP system purge valve.
https://www.google.com/amp/s/volvo850wa ... -tank/amp/

IAT sensor have exactly the same spec as ECT.
Multimeter is all you need.
A2 5-1-2 :
https://www.scandcar.com/volvo-850-error-codes/

You have a vacuum leak somewhere or o2 sensor connector is bad.
FPR-fuel pressure regulator should be checked if it leaks fuel into vacuum line.

Fuel pressure is good since you have fpr at fuel rail. 43.5psi at 1st prime and around 35psi at idle. Wot should again rise at 43.5 psi. Are there any codes? Fuel vapor lock could indeed be the issue if the valve is stuck open. The valve is at driver's side,attached near radiator and it's vacuum lin...

Was brake light on during this?
Check for leaks and check brake fluid level.
It could be that master brake cylinder is failing if there are no leaks and brake fluid is at proper level.

10v cars doesn't exist is U.S.
Did you checked for codes?
You have diagnostic ports under the hood.

I just re-read your old post about this....
Cur runs rich....
10v car can run rich if MAP,IAT,O2,ECT sensors are bad...furthermore....FPR could also leak fuel into it's vacuum line...check it.

But OP asked about serpentine belt tensioner pulley and idler pulley...not the tensioner itself. Pulleys are both replacable and maintenable as a regular service on proper mileage interval. Off topic a bit... I had brand new Gates serpentine belts failure in a 6 months on some of other cars...but NE...

That scenario is possible but that is rare. It usually happens when serpentine belt is old and damaged,have cracked channels,and it start to slice itself on the crankshaft and ac pulleys,then it breaks and enwraps itself around the crankshaft blocking it,which leads to timing belt failure. There is ...

Could be that coil replacement wasn't needed since spark plugs were that worn.

Happy Volvo miles!

Abscate is right...
Water/coolant flow lines must be without restrictions and damages.
Some dents and damages on the grille of the radiator(air flow/honeycomb) is not that important unless there are a lot of them and if they are blocking the airflow.

Ok...it seems that this is similiar to Vol-Fcr. Vol-Fcr is excellent and works perfectly.I have it...but it also have it's limits. But still...there are things which require a trip to a dealer. I don't know if it is a case with this app...but most od them are advertised that can do a lot of things ....

...Don't be snobbish.... I'm not...there are some things like that which requires ONLY original diagnostic tool because some modules are protected and require vehicle's or module PIN code for access and programming. There are also some specific manufacturer's dtc which CAN'T be read with nothing el...

Volvo diagnostic tool MUST be used here(the one which official dealers/service use)....nothing generic/universal and certainly NOT some android app.

Something is up either with your cluster or abs/tracs module.

Do you have abs/tracs light ON?

I don't know if Volvo changed part number for '99+,but all 850....'97 & '98 s,v,c70 use Mahle KL85 fuel filter.

...My tires are standard 205/50/16, and the speedometer/odometer/cruise control are working fine apart this 15%... What was the year when Volvo switched to 205/55/16 because of customer's complaints about bent rims? I think it was with introduction of s,v,c,xc70 models in '97(EU) and '98 for U.S ma...

Don't bother...it can ONLY be M4.4 in '97 & '98 non-turbo B5254S.

Open the hood,remove oil filler cap,put a latex glove onto the filler kneck,start the car and see if it inflates or it's being pulled down with vacuum.

If it inflates pcv system is clogged.
If not...it's ok.

The bearing on the tensioner pulley have protective membrane(seal).Wd-40 couldn't get into it without dismantling. If you want....you can remove tensioner arm,it is bolted with 2 bolts to the engine and then remove the pulley which is held with big torx bolt....but first release the tension and remo...

yanga001 wrote: ↑Wed May 06, 2020 12:46 pm ...I know VolFCR covers Feniks 5.2 but you need the correct Vag/Com cable with the ft232 FTDI from what i heard...

Vol-Fcr doesn't cover Fenix 5.2 and M4.3. since they are OBDI and still produce flash codes.
It covers just M4.4 management which is fully OBDII.

If they don't make noise and have no play....i would leave them alone.
Mine are still original and i'm on 3rd serpentine belt replacement...from new.
I just inspect them when i'm replacing the belt.

All '97 & 98 20v cars B5254S have Motronic 4.4 management...not Jetronic and certainly not Jetronic 4.2.
LH 3.2 Jetronic is used in early 850 with separate ecu(s) for engine and ignition.
Jetronic 4.2 doesn't exist in these cars.

Perform a voltage drop test in order to see are main b+ cable and ground ok.

TDC sensor(on flywheel) should also be checked.
ECT sensor's connector from ECT side and wiring loom side should be checked for corrosion.

Then your coil is ok.
B5254S also have 20v designation on valve/spark plug cover...while 10v cars have DOHC instead of 20v.

Is your 850 10v or 20v car?
10v cars were not imported in U.S.
B5252 is 10v car.
Is CEL on?
Read the codes from A2 and A6.
'93 non turbo have two separate ecu(s) for engine(A2) and ignition(A6).
You have built-in diagnostic ports under the hood on ecu box.

...I checked both ends of the positive cable on the battery and the starter and they are both tight and corrosion free. How did you checked them...visually? They all look fine visually,the problem is that they are not usable(electrically). The only way to check them is a voltage drop test on both.....

...I purchased a working coil from a salvaged ( due to accident ) 1998 S70 on ebay for a very good price. I did match the part number with compatibility and from what I can find, it is compatible with a 1993 850. I will put it in as soon as it arrives and report back my findings. Thank you again! A...