Volvo help, forum + news for all models

My drivers side blinker stopped working when water seeped into the socket panel and rusted the contacts. The best way to check that is with a continuity tester or multi-meter. You can remove the socket panel and probe the continuity between the plug pins and the bulb contact points. I replaced the p...

Check the fuse for that circuit. I had this issue on my 850. When I touched the brake pedal, activating the brake light switch, the fuse would blow. I performed a lot of continuity and voltage tests with no clues emerging. Then a longtime Volvo indy tech mentioned having the right bulbs. I had two i...

Eric the Car Guy made the off-hand comment that 80% of freon leaks are at Schrader valve in the filler port. It looks like a tire stem but it's a little bigger and you need a special tool to change it. NAPA has them for ~ $8.00 branded for GM but appears to be the same thing Volvo used on the P80's.

Wonderful videos. Having been through this a couple of times, I found that both are helpful, the second one really nails the whole process, though I'll add a couple of comments. YouTubers sometimes gloss over sticky parts of projects. Both could have emphasized a little more how tightly the clutch s...

I knew the freon was down since there's a slow leak, probably in the dash. I charged it last year and it was okay for the summer. Today, I put the gauges and vacuum pump on it, registered about 5 lbs + pressure before pumping. It took just a few minutes to get to minus 30. Then when it wouldn't take...

A couple of years ago I had the a/c pulley off and took out a shim to set the a/c clutch factory clearance. The car hasn't seen many miles since so I'm pretty confident the setting is correct. But the clutch isn't engaging with the a/c and recirc switches set to on, and the blower fan at 3. There's ...

BEJinFbk I looked around the web and didn't find a unit that was getting mainly good reviews and was miniature like you're describing. Maybe I'm not using the right search terms. Do you have anything specific in mind? I'm going to check with a neighbor across the alley. We're on good terms. Not sure...

Both deterrent and image capture effects are what I need. Maybe it's going to be a fixed exterior mounted cam. The dash LED blinks and is visible from the side so it should provide some deterrence, but it hasn't stopped the vandalism. So at the moment, a fixed, visible exterior camera seems like the...

Good insight. After I posted, it occurred to me that if somebody is intent on damaging the car, if they see a camera, why not go all the way, smash a window and make off with the camera. Surfed around ebay and Amazon, there are a lot of small cams but mixed reviews. Not sure how I could mount one in...

Suggested by abscate: cameras in the rides. My car has been attacked in the alley 3 times too many. Does anybody have experience with onboard security cams? I just took a quick look and found this one: https://www.amazon.com/Crosstour-Dashboard-Recorder-Detection-Recording/dp/B07FXV5WHN/ref=sr_1_10?...

abscate: thanks for your condolences!

Hmmm, cameras in my rides? Can you suggest options?

Maybe that needs to be a new topic.

This blog thread by Bobistheoilguy has a couple of interesting posts, including one that compares the viscosity spec's of Amsoil's ATF vs their PSF. One poster discusses all the different hydraulic systems his machines have and he uses the ATF. The consensus is use the ATF. The PSF is slightly less ...

It's been a while since I cleaned my drain tubes so I'm not sure this is correct—but it's worth a try. There's a catch channel along each side of the panel to route water (that leaks around the sun roof gasket) forward or back to a front or back tube. If the sun roof window is open a lot the channel...

Honestly, I have a suspect, based on years of local harassment and who might well have enjoyed himself trying to pry his way in. I know from multiple comments over the years he does envy that car (and other things about my property)—it's emerald green with sport wheels and at least on the drivers si...

Today I discovered what look like hammer dents up and down my B pillar, but on closer inspection it's clear somebody had a device inside the door seal, probably trying to get to the lock post. The inside of the door jamb has deep scratches. Anyway, two questions: if they had secured a tool around th...

There are 2 tiny o-rings that fit into the recesses to seal the transfer of fluid between the halves. You can see them here: https://www.partsgeek.com/rz2gfry-volvo-850-disc-brake-caliper-seal-kit.html?gb=pp&cid=28884375&aid=4168799373&kid=1100003048918&msclkid=057bd01513b5187a87218ea9bfc67a4c&utm_s...

On my 3 850's, my rear brakes always squeaked until I changed out the pads to Bosch organics, now they're all nice and quiet. I think I'm running metallics or semi-metallics on all fronts, not sure of the brand, but they're all very responsive to the brake pedal.

Last summer when I bought a part at O'Reilly Auto Supply, the clerk walked out with me, signaling me over to the trunk of his car (which wasn't a Volvo). In his trunk, though there was a gas powered Volvo 855 radio controlled car about 20 inches long. Very cool. Detailed replica.

I mentioned the problem of an oversized circlip to a local shop guy, he said "it will go in. Just wail on it with a big hammer". I just tapped lightly with a hammer on the one I was having a problem with and it was clearly hitting solid steel. Just that tap though got it stuck. I had to buy a long c...

"Stock MAF" but is it known to be good? I had an 850 that behaved like that, the MAF was bad. Try disconnecting it just to confirm. If there's no difference then I wouldn't suspect the MAF.

Do not use a heavy hammer to pound in the axle. I had the same problem with Autozone axles, the circlip they used on two I tried was too loose, so it was hitting the face of the receiving gear instead of the taper that compresses it. If you force it with a hammer the circlip will deform and wedge in...

ZionXIX: if your engine has been reasonably well maintained you might be surprised how new your bearing inserts look. I was when I rebuilt my 96 855 turbo (it had a bent rod). I took the inserts in their bearing caps, just as they were when I removed the caps, to two different engine rebuilders for ...

The rod cap bolts are inverse torx so you'll need the right socket for that. I've forgotten the size of the bolt heads (10 mm?). Those are stretch bolts, btw, but can be reused as long as they retain their original length. So tightening them will be measured torque plus number of degrees. They'll sq...

smacknab wrote: ↑Thu Apr 23, 2020 1:44 pm Anyone know if the process is the same for a m56 transmission? The mating of the oil pan and transmission makes me worry a bit that I don't have the right seals etc

Your photo is looking at the back of the engine. There are no seals back there. All the seals at the front.

No question, it's a dicey repair for a DIY'er. If the car otherwise is in good condition and the owner is willing to spend some bucks to keep it runnable, then it's worth an attempt. Look at the thickness (thinness?) of the sheet metal that forms the tower. The contour of it gives it strength, espec...

I would begin by removing the shock mount that's attached to the top of the shock absorber. Remove the shock from its bottom mount, so it's out of the way. Then clamp the head of the rusty bolt in a vice so can cut off its rusty threaded end flush with the nut (that's on the underside of the piece t...

The result is stunning. But are you actually treating the clear coat or the paint itself?

Oops, I see the answer to my question—wasn't aware that some colors weren't produced without a clearcoat.

I've had a couple of lower corner headlight bucket mount bolts rust that broke out the plastic corner of the bucket that contained the threaded female lug for the bolt. The problem on those wasn't that the titanium bolt rusted in the lug, but the tip of the bolt that was exposed beyond the lug got r...

Thanks, rspi for doing this analysis. I look forward to what your results!

Centric (decent quality) makes the kit with all the parts you need: https://www.partsgeek.com/bhxqqfh-volvo-850-caliper-repair-kit.html?gb=pp&cid=28884375&aid=4168799373&kid=1100003048918&msclkid=93bddbb784a913893e43852c39f8d6ab&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Shopping%28BSC%29&utm_term=...

On page 8 of this tutorial there are more spec's on o-rings for the p80 A/C system.

https://images.matthewsvolvosite.com/vo ... torial.pdf

To separate the line barb from the radiator fitting, I would lock the curvature of the line in a large vice, then use a small pipe wrench with good teeth to turn the fitting.It WILL break loose.

I think I used a little assembly grease to hold the rectangular o-ring in the t-stat housing while reassembling.

Actually, I got that one from the junk yard : ) along with half a dozen others in my miscellaneous bin. I hadn't used it because the wider ones seem so much sturdier, but while sturdy is good, the narrower ones might actually clinch the hose more tightly. Plus the upturned edges prevent cutting into...

Lower radiator hose blew off my 93 850. I thought the shiny stainless steel clamp I'd used there would be good. It was tight but apparently not quite tight enough and over a couple of years there might have been a little seepage around the nipple, enough to make it slippery. Then I suppose it was ju...

"I plan on investing in a chinese vida so when I do I’ll do a little write-up with my findings" Watch out for the Chinese code readers. I have one bought several years ago that's almost brand new was only used on 3 cars to test it—after it failed to work on my 850. It didn't work on any of the other...

While you're waiting to pull together all the details, you might try an internal cleanup with Seafoam. I've used this on my 850's—not the intake injection trick but do a clean oil change with full synthetic 10-30/40 and half can of Seafoam in the oil and leave it in there. The other half goes in a f...

The problem might be a weak motor, but those motors are pretty robust. More likely one or both of the drive posts are freezing in their bushings. Search the data base here, or ask Steve the moderator (abscate) if you can't find the tutorial. Over time, the posts build up corrosion and they bind. Bef...

It's been a while (thankfully) since I've had to do this, but here's what I remember: If the cam cover is the same as on the 850's, I've used a 3/8" or 1/2" square drive to pop the seal. On the 850 if the crank timing mark is zeroed, #5 valves (I think on the intake side) will be loaded open under t...

Superfluous information, since you have a perfect seal set in the form of a gear shaft collar—but somebody who doesn't have one of those lying around might be interested to know that a short length of 2 inch diameter PVC plumbing waste pipe is exactly that size. Home Depot sells 2 foot lengths which...

"Upullrparts" junk yards in Twin Cities, MN, don't keep any notes on engines. They process cars immediately, meaning all fluids are removed. Odometer readings (if visible like in 850's) are recorded with VIN's. Beyond that, even if cars were driven in, no data is kept. Cars come in daily, stay for 4...

I would want to know what the internals look like before replacing the TB kit, seals, etc. While you have the engine on the ground why not open it up (there are tutorials on here). Pull the pan; you'll want to replace the oil pickup o-rings anyway. While you're in there, pull the rod caps to have a ...

True, the MAF changed for 95 and up, but if the car has > 200k the MAF has probably been replaced. Thus, if it looks somewhat newish, and if the car has been there for a while and might have an appointment with the crusher soon, might as well grab the MAF—somebody here might need it.

I think it was 2013 when I used the Permatex on the pan flange, hasn't leaked. I came very close to getting an admission from a Permatex rep that the Volvo "real thing" is made by Permatex. The person did tell me that the Permatex product is rebranded by several vendors. Anyway, it's what I used top...

The white sealant on the oil pan bolts seems to be a threadlock of some type. It's probably intended to both seal and secure the bolts. Before I replaced the bolts I cleaned the threads with a fine bristle wire brush and also cleaned out the threaded holes in the block with a tap (M-7?) so I could t...

There are quite a few p2's in the two main junk yards around the Minnesota Twin Cities, but like elsewhere p80's here are pretty scarce. I didn't see one for almost a year until last summer, then several came in. I have 3 850's, which is why over the years when they were plentiful I harvested a fair...

Thanks!

Part of the problem you're describing is a lot of those moving parts are trapped where it's hard to get at them with the unit installed. It's more work than you want to get into, but if you can locate a donor car with a good sunroof you might want to swap the whole panel. That's what I did when boug...

And by the way, would you please change the lead heading of this post to:

Re: Volvo 850 broken hood cable solution

Only if approved by a consensus of females in your sea of estrogen.

I've retitled this post for easier searching.
The new title doesn't begin at the beginning.
abscate: can you change it?
Thanks

Where there's already some rust, you can try POR 15:
https://www.por15.com/

Plus the company sells a complete line of preventive products.

OR you can pick through NAPA's impressive fastener kit and find a hefty self-threading screw with a broad flat head that's a tight fit for the largest hole, grind it in there and be done. That's what I did on one of my 93 mud flaps that was coming loose. After maybe 5 years it's still holding well.

If your caliper piston isn't perfect after cleaning (and soaking overnight in 90% alcohol to remove any invisible residue) there's a good chance it will leak. You can get a complete kit from a UK source for $38.00 shipped (in 2017). Source: http://www.biggreddemo.auto-guru.uk/ I bought one just to h...

Junk yards come in handy for piecing back together bang-ups like this. Tail lights in Minnesota JY's $18 each piece, so $36 for those IF the metal tail light seat isn't bent much, or at all, just scratched up. Junk yard lift gate: maybe $45 complete. Wheel looks okay, new tire needed. So if the corn...

The Rexka push pin fasteners look like, and a billed to be, the real thing. If they're the right size for the hole in the sheet metal, that's probably the way to go. erik. Please let us know what, if anything, had to be manipulated to install the replacement rocker covers—IOW how you installed them ...

JimBee +10,000 points awarded for a scale in your photo Thanks, abscate. What can I remit the points for? Like erik says, except I used an extra cable from the junk yard that connects between the right and left latches which are pretty substantial. Cut about 60-40. Then remove the cables from their...

abscate wrote: ↑Fri Nov 29, 2019 9:05 am JimBee

+10,000 points awarded for a scale in your photo

Thanks, abscate. What can I remit the points for?

Two nightmare scenarios that I've thought about when traveling in the 850 are sunroof glass stuck open, you're in a remote area and there's a rain forecast. And your hood cable breaks (hopefully not at the same time that your sunroof is stuck open). But, hey, sh*t does happen. I've seen a few 850's ...

From a side discussion on bumper brackets, bolts, topic, the question arose about the best rivets to use to refasten a fender liner. I have three that need to be reinstalled on two 855's, on the short list for spring. I've noticed these at Harbor Freight: https://www.harborfreight.com/90-piece-pom-r...

Interesting side topic on the rivets. That should probably be a separate post.
Has anybody tried these?
https://www.harborfreight.com/90-piece- ... 67611.html

Tascaparts.com had the OEM bolts in stock a couple of years ago when I bought mine. You could check with them. I found at the time it was best to call. Tel # is on their site. The clerk was very helpful. I bought the brackets for both 96 850's and the right side only for the 93 (left side no longer ...

Extreme redo: nice job! I'm keeping my 93 850 going as well, mainly for winter driving in Minnesota. Miles are around early 200k's, it's been pretty reliable. Clear coat failure on the hood and roof are pretty bad. Color is teal or emerald green, quite radiant, still. I've toyed with a repaint, unfo...

Any leaks in the intake air and vacuum systems will cause erratic engine operation. Small ones in vacuum lines are a common problem on the p80's. I've had a couple of issues with the accordion hose from the filter box to the intake—one was a tear on the back side so I didn't see it immediately and t...

You can just JB Weld the wheel to the hub....or zip tie the four holes to the five.. :lol: abscate's creative imagination knows no limits—living in that neck of the woods, there's probably an Edisonian gene or two randomly distributed in the NY pool :lol: Misha: I think the tech changes the stem wh...

Helpful points about fitment, giving me food for thought. Abscate's keen observation, shared by bmdubya that the disc will need 5 holes to bolt up the strange wheel. I hadn't thought about that but I do have a few 5 hole rear discs in inventory, even a new one if I decided to splurge and use it, ins...

I'm pretty sure all the 93's are 4 bolt. The platform does seem the same. I also have 2 96 850 wagons and have used brake parts between them and the 93 interchangeably (many harvested from the junk yard), so I'm thinking the axles are probably the same. I'm kind of kicking myself for not snagging a ...

My 93 854 is ready for winter driving except that one of the aluminum wheels isn't holding air for very long. It has been ground and resealed several times and air loss is fairly rapid now. I just happen to have a spare five bolt 850 wheel that's the same style as my 93 wheels and has a mounted tire...

Good point. A full gallon drains each time, so total changed would probably be 4 gallons. The soot on the stick does indicate there's still some present, so maybe needs another round.

My 96 855 auto trans has had at least 4 drain & fills over the last 5 years. It sits for long periods while I drive the other 850. When fully inserted in the tube, the end of the stick is almost horizontal. Yesterday, I pulled the dip stick and expecting to find nice clean fluid (like it appeared wh...

I tried spraying pins with silicone spray, don't think that's going to work. It has its place, probably not on the pins :\

Are you able to get to the cut points on the wires to reconnect them? I'd try that first. A female-female crimp connector would probably work, after stripping off a little insulation.

Do any of these failures result in not being able to open the door at all?

Next time I check my pins I'm going to clean them up and spray them with silicone lubricant. It works great on all rubber parts and has no viscosity at all or temperature sensitivity.

Have you checked with a Volvo dealership on the part numbers? Kline Volvo in St. Paul has been really helpful to me when I've asked them to look up something. 651-481-9600. I'm assuming it has an automatic trans, so you might consider changing the transmission cooling lines to/from the radiator. May...

I was set to go on the LCA bushing replacement, but when I got up close discovered it wasn't as bad as I thought—it was last spring when I had it in for alignment. Just for the lark of it, I decided to unbalance the front tire pressures a bit to see if that would reduce the pull. It does! Not comple...

There is a new lens (maybe) available, shows on computer inventory but vendor not sure if it can be found. If so, $90, but it would be new. Plus shipping, ouch. I paid $90.00 for a whole 5 speed transmission for that car (okay, that was 2008, but still). Now, getting it ready for winter again; last ...

Parking on the alley has its advantages, as in no close front/rear parking hits or scrapes from curb parking. Unfortunately, vandalism can be a problem. I've been pretty lucky, though have had a couple of windshields taken out, which were fully insured. Now, though, my dear '93 850 has a small hole ...

Hip Hip Hooray! Many thanks to Matt for helping us to keep these Swedish machines in good repair!

We have rain coming in the next couple of days. Hope to pull the LCA this weekend weather permitting and will size everything up. If the replacement bushing is a go, I'll try to get it done and take some pics.

Nice, crlande. When I discovered O'Reilly didn't have it, I didn't check further. Just checked with my local Autozone they do have it available for rental. With all those sleeves hopefully one will fit. Will find out tomorrow!

Rubber control arm bushing is missing from front-most bushing where it mounts to the rail (on the right side). I suspect this is why the steering pulls slightly to the right. Noticed it when I took the car to a reputable shop for alignment. They couldn't eliminate the pull. The other bushing and bal...

Aside from piston quality, I think the most vulnerable part to fail on an oem rear caliper is the seal groove. If the dust boot fails, even leaks a tiny bit, moisture can get in there and cause some rust to build. The bore isn't that critical; the seal takes care of holding in the fluid around the p...

I bought a couple of 850 rear caliper rebuild kits for ~ $11.00 each. If you're going to order a reman, you could check with Rock Auto, e.g, the following: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/volvo,1996,850,2.3l+l5+turbocharged,1433983,brake+&+wheel+hub,caliper,1704 What I might do. If I had a littl...

"I've read somewhere that if you take your front indicators off, you can get to the bonnet catches. Apparently the indicators are held in with spring clips?" It's technically possible to do this, but you have to know exactly where the release lug is on the latch, b/c you can't see it. If you are tha...

If a prospect wants to know where to find a replacement marker light, Rock Auto had them at least until several years ago when I last bought one. You need to specify 93 because the front profile is different for later models. I think they were priced around $15.00. Mine looks like yours, has around ...

Robert's video, as we've come to expect from him, is well done and very useful! Surprised to see a different scanner he used, I guess b/c it works with both Apple and Android phones.

On the Android platform, does anybody know if whether Veepeak is superior to ELM327?

It would be great if somebody would set this up on an android phone and give us a walk-through with demo!

Got it. Thanks. Will it be obvious how to set it up?

8 years ago, I used the ELM327with Torque app on a cross country trip in my 850 base. It was fine for what I needed, accurate speed, MPG, a couple of other things. Now, I'm looking at the ELM327 again and found this recent post by esl-97-850-T5 on what appears to be the latest fully featured 850 upd...

This looks like the unit:
https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Steeri ... way&sr=8-1

I used to use Amsoil in my 93 854 when I first bought it in 2008 but after acquiring 2 96 855's I went to whatever "full synthetic" brand is on sale and usually in the 10-40 viscosity, although I've used 5-40. Here in Minnesota my 93 (which I drive as my winter car) starts readily on 10-30 even at -...

My guess: Drivers side looks like it might be original, passenger side doubtful due to the finish color and deterioration.

Further comments?

Try this link:

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/ ... zZjdTJEUzA

The hood on my 96 burgundy color wagon has some broad streaks of missing clear coat. The paint now revealed isn't damaged but is getting sun bleached. If I want to prep it well and then re-clearcoat the whole hood (going over the remaining clearcoat) without stripping and redoing the paint and every...

Is there a better place on MVS to post this? My 3 850's have paint issues. The 93—well, not sure what can be done there, except maybe a full repaint which is probably not worth it. The car runs well, starts immediately in cold weather. It's my winter beater. The hood and roof have major paint failur...

abscate wrote: ↑Tue Jun 04, 2019 12:50 am I think their place is redoing the job every 5 k

But is that an ironclad fact

Source with the best price on OEM heater hoses?

Cool. The HW replica might help to cement the mid-90's wagons' design legacy. Last summer the clerk at O'Reilly's Auto Parts took me outside to the trunk of his car where he had a radio controlled, gasoline powered 850 sedan, about 14 inches long. It had a multi-speed transmission, acceleration, bra...

I checked voltage at the fuse box on all the circuits—ignition off. Found significant (close to battery) voltage at: 5, 6, 12, 13. Very slight amounts at: 14, 23, 24, 26. I had a jiffy fix for the glove box lamp—one of those very small caliper nipple caps stuck on the end of the switch post, it fell...

I think we need a guinea pig. Poor URO (which seems to have gone through a sort of metamorphosis a few years ago) gets so much innuendo. Has anyone actually tried those heater hoses? Are they soft or firm rubber, fabric reinforced or not? Somebody could rig up a fitting to adapt an air hose to a pai...

Heater hose replacements, such as those carried by Advance Auto are made of a softer rubber than the straight off-the-roll rubber-fabric reinforced heater hose we've used forever. What lee mentions about the tugging effect on the heater core pipes with engine movement of standard heater hose is a co...

Cool. I hadn't seen a chart like that before.

I have noticed that the fuses have a bit of metal revealed on each side of the top, so I'll put the meter on those tomorrow and see what I come up with.

All of today's measurements taken on the 10 amp multimeter setting. The glove box lamp did turn out to be part of the draw. All fuses installed: Glove box: open, lamp on, reading is .22 on 10 amp setting, so 2.2 amp draw. Fixed. closed, lamp off, reading is .1 (1 amp draw) Fuse 15 out: car door open...

I'm testing like abscate suggests, negative cable off battery post, meter set to the 10 amp position with its leads connected between negative battery post and negative cable. The car has been parked for a week with the battery disconnected so no part of the system should be energized. I've had this...

Key off, multi-meter on the 10 amp setting, I'm getting fuse readings that range around -.17 to -.35, but settle at -.22—except for #12 (stop lights) that settles at -.15. The battery does drain really fast (over night can lose 2 or more volts). Apparently those readings suggest the whole system is ...

The bearing near the brushes dries up and gets clotted with debris from the brushes. I've resurrected a couple that continue to work after several years, but I don't run them at max speed. You can pull it, get it on the work bench, set a couple of supports either side, then using a flat bar on both ...

Can we see it in use?

As pointed out, those fronts are easy, if as abscate says, the flex hose nipple hasn't siezed in the caliper. Nice writeup. Everybody still running one of these cars is going to be doing this in the near future.

That was a good price on the rebuilt ATE caliper. Is the piston fully chromed?

I have a night vision camera I'm going to install that targets that area. A sign that the camera is watching might help. Parking inside is not an option. Previously, there has been some vandalism, I think mainly intended for the neighbors for political reasons. My car was close by so they got me too...

I'm putting new tires on a car that I park on the alley, so it might be vulnerable. My main concern isn't the tires, but the wheels, which are aluminum's off an XC, replacements would be hard to find.

I've seen some specialty lug nuts. I'm wondering what forum members use.

I'm still hanging on to my 93 850 GLT. It had some blemishes when I bought it in 2008—my first Volvo. I'd been looking for a used sedan and suddenly began noticing Volvos all around me in Minneapolis. So when this one popped up on Craigslist, I took it for ride and was immediately smitten. I'd never...

The link originally included in the post worked from my computer but not from others. It's edited now. Please check it out and let me know if it works.
Jim

rspi: what shocks are you running on the rear and how do they feel?

Good points! Radio Shacks were a great source for small electronic parts. They're all gone from the Twin Cities MN area now. Hopefully, a diode sourced from Walmart or online will be correct. What will happen if its properly identified but poorly made; does something fry? What wattage irons do ppl u...

I posted this on MVS last summer but I can't find it, so I'm reposting. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B2vVfbJibK08THlqSzZjdTJEUzA That link should bring you to my google-drive page where you'll find a pdf that can be downloaded. If you're also replacing the evaporator, abscate (MVS moderat...

What's strange is that none of those issues appeared to be present until that fateful night last October when the IAC hose came off the vacuum tree and I stumbled home—then the high idle and lower gas mileage became obvious. So, what's mysterious is that it seems to run well otherwise. But maybe wit...

I could do the diode to get rid of the CEL but is that going to correct the high idle? It's the idle I want to bring down and hopefully restore the great gas mileage I had been getting on this manual trans base 2.4 — high 20's up to 30 highway. So that's first priority.

Last fall, before I parked this old friend for the winter, I limped home a few miles with the engine jumping around due to massive air leak—hose from IAC had come loose. After I secured the hose the idle (which has always been steady at 700) is now high ~ 1200 and gas mileage is little off. After si...

A few years ago on my way to work I had a smoking hot left front brake. I was close to work so let it cool for a couple of minutes and made it in. Scary. It looked like it might light up. At the end of the day, I drove slowly on side streets and used the brakes very lightly, there was still a little...

That one's gone. It did look pretty and had some good features. I got as far as luke warm and would have taken a close look at it but it was 200 mile round trip. The discussion was helpful though in helping me to think it through. Had it been a manual trans I think I would have jumped on it. Now the...

gmh: Thanks for the link, I read all the reports, it's great that so many owners of Volvos in the 99-02 vintage bracket have had a successful fix with the XeMODeX update. There are also quite a few with ongoing problems after they got the update—that's what concerns me. Even with multiple returns, s...

Thanks all for the info. I'm ruminating on it. Supposing that the car has good esthetics but hasn't been maintained or lacks records and needs a new ETM, what are the likely repairs going to add up to? I'm thinking TB, water pump and roller kit, suspension parts, tires (no mention in ad), brakes. Wo...

abscate says: If the AT shifts smoothly and the neutral stop software was removed its a great car at $1500 What if the stop-neutral software is still installed and how could it be removed? Also, what additional years around '01 have similar fitment parts? Does the '01 have the pricey throttle contro...

Seller wants $2900. Neutral stop software? How would I know if it has or doesn't have it? Also, re the endlinks: if they're not loose, not decrepit and move freely I don't understand how the rising wheel banging over a hard edge of something acts like it's not at all dampened by the shock absorber. ...

Thanks for the feedback. I guess they're getting rid of it for a reason. I have to admit though, it is photogenic. The one thing I can't get right on my 2 '96 850's is the suspension. I've tried 3 different brands of rear shocks they all bang on road cracks, asphalt pythons, edges of bridge decks, e...

Also, upgrading from a 96 850 what surprises, repairs would be likely? New things to learn?

I've done several and I second most of what tardcart says. The first thing to check before going further is the bleeder screw. If it's seized, you wouldn't be able to bleed it even if you could otherwise rebuild it. If you're near and junk yard, you might find a decent used one. Again, first thing t...

The way I reglued my headliner where it had lost its bond around the edges was, after cleaning off the dried glue residue with a small brush with medium strong bristles, I used common pins to hold in place (pinning back) any cloth that was loose but wasn't being glued in that pass. That enabled me t...

When it's time for new rear brake pads, you might want to try the Bosch organics (~22.00). I have them on 3 850's and they are delightfully quiet and otherwise perform well. I haven't noticed much dust either.

Try this link for a downloadable pdf tutorial with some additional pics that I cobbled together for an 850. abscate's pictogram is a great overview with lots of really helpful details. You might find a couple more pointers in the pdf.

https://drive.google.com/drive/my-drive

Jim

10 x 10's hold up a house. Plus a couple of 3x's and/or 2x's for exact height. I keep a stack of short pieces in my work area. That's what I use for main support after jacking with my HF aluminum "racing" type hydraulic jack.

I would find it excruciatingly hard to part with it, even given the work it needs. That said, though, top of the work list at current mileage, would be drop the pan and replace the oil pickup o-rings. They must be on the verge of breaking down. If that happens value will drop to salvage level.

The last couple of winters my 93 850 had been reluctant to turn over when the ambient temp was in the lower teens F. I knew the battery was okay. Last summer, I cleaned up the ground terminal behind the left side headlight and the negative connection to the block, and rebolted them with a dab of ele...

What is its purpose?

Nice find. Thanks for posting. I'm ordering right away.

I found the best place to get the most accurate fitting cv axle boot (that I could find) is Advance Auto (owns WorldPac distributor). You can order from your car's VIN. The boot I repaired with GKN/Lobro fit perfectly on the axle shaft (small end of the boot), I did have to stretch it more than I li...

I bought mine a couple of years ago from Tasca Ford. They had the complete set of bolts for brackets-to-chassis and bumper to brackets, as well as the brackets for post 93 850's, which are the same for both sides. For the 93's, the brackets are different for each side and only the right side was ava...

If you buy a used R, isn't it likely to be run hard with lots of engine wear—and everything thereto attached, even if it was fairly well kept up and still looks good? Really, don't people buy a hot rod to run it like a hot rod?

Easy fixes are wonderful :) If that doesn't fix it, I agree with above suggestions that the electronic coolant temperature sensor (ECT) is suspect, especially if it has never been replaced. Why the ECT? Others might correct me, but as I understand it, that sensor sends information to the engine cont...

Minneapolis: very Volvo. When I bought my first one, the 93 850 in 2008, there had been 4 or my block. Once I started to notice them, I was seeing them all over the area and still do. 850's are getting scarce but there are still quite a few around, and on up from there.

I had this problem with my 93 850 when I first got it. After a deluging rain, there was an inch+ of water in the drivers side footwell. It also flowed under the seat to the back floor. After cleaning out those soft rubber drain tubes (above discussion) it didn't happen again. My theory is that given...

If there's an Advance Auto parts store near you, it might be worth taking your vin number to them as a means of identifying the correct boot made by GKN/Lobro. Advance owns Worldpac, a worldwide distributor of aftermarket parts. Worldpac might be able to get a match for you. You need to order throug...

If the door won't open, how do you remove the panel short of demoing it?

Teflon spray. Hadn't heard of that before but, yeah, seems like a capital idea. I have wiped wax on the seals for winters past and that seemed to help. Surprisingly, for all the jammed up lock cylinders this time, the door seals weren't frozen, maybe due to last year's waxing.

In Minneapolis the other day, we had rain all day, temps in the upper 30's, then rapid fall off to well below freezing. Yesterday, tried to enter my car and the key wouldn't even part the slide cover to go in the cylinder. I got some PB Blaster in there which has worked before, but to no avail. Fina...

The last True Value store in Minneapolis that had what Lee described closed a couple of years ago and auctioned all that beautiful hardware to a Florida farmer, I was told. Their basement was a sight to behold. The Chinese hardware now available is not that high quality—some of it is really like abs...

Misha: The big question is, how do you know if it's okay or in good shape if it's shifting properly under normal use?

Taken together, I agree with most of the suggestions in the above comments. I've done several of these on my 3 850's and have found two things: One, the groove around the ball joint stud that goes into the knuckle can actually be pushed too far beyond the pinch bolt hole, so I've learned to go real ...

The power input shaft from the engine is turning inside the transmission, probably churning fluid that's passively washing around the output component to rotate the wheels when there's no resistance, but what's lacking is a firm connection via the clutch(es) between the input shaft and the output pa...

I used an end cut nipper, not ideal but does the job. It's very sharp, but won't cut through an authentic Oetiker clamp.
https://www.harborfreight.com/10-in-hea ... 60815.html

SuperHerman has a super good idea. I'll keep that in mind next go-round.

My 96 850 base wagon came to me used (heavily) with steel wheels and the "rubbery plastic" Volvo brand full disc wheel covers. All of the steel wheels eventually had a little warpage, one significant. I was hearing a rythmic sort of thrumbing sound, I think from the runout of that wheel. I found a n...

You might need to remove the rear door to remove the rocker panel cover (side trim, you're calling it?). At least on the later models, (I have 2 96 850's) there are plastic pins that are locked into the underside of the top-threshold trim piece that go into locator holes in the horizonal body part u...

I'd forgotten that I had a GKN boot in storage but discovered it just before I was ready to zip tie the boot onto the CV housing. The one I found (GKN 300439) was packed with a 104mm oetiker clamp, 7mm bigger than the one that was packed with the GKN boot I was installing. The 300439 is apparently s...

As far as I can tell the boot's clamp channel is over the cv's groove. The boot is Lobro/GKN 300427 for the 93 850 mt. It was spec'd by the Volvo's vin. Although I had to stretch the large end of it maybe a 1/4" to get it over the cv housing, it seemed right. The other end had to stretch too, but we...

Thanks to all for the helpful suggestions!

All I need is an extra 1/16" but if I flatten the crimp crown to gain that extra length how will I be able to grab the crown with the crimper to tighten it?

The new axle seal is installed as is the cv refurb with cv cleaning, new grease and GKN boot, the axle's set to go back in except for the large oetiker clamp. I can't get it tight enough to catch the tab. The local shop guys suggest using a heavy duty zip tie instead. I'm tempted but would really li...

Others might know more about the relays inside the little box on the lower front of the transmission. It's kind of hard to get the cover off their housing, but apparently doable. The relays themselves I seem to recall are not expensive and fairly easy to change once you get access. I haven't tried i...

850's are becoming scarce around here. But for some things I guess I'll need to wait for them show up at the end of the line.

MVS home page lists a post on this, but for some reason it doesn't open in my browser. I researched this several years ago and found that Pilkington was the OEM provider for Volvos. I searched for a while to find a Pilkington windshield when I needed a replacement and then later for the side rear wi...

I pulled the lower control arms from a 98 non-turbo auto trans yesterday at the Upullrparts.com yard in Rosemount, MN. Red sedan, row 321. My harvest included an FAG new looking front hub for $11.00. Not sure if the axles are OEM, but they look like they might be. They have newish outer boots, and t...

The second time I looked at it, was less interested. I'm glad to know that, though, as I guess the other 60+ viewers of this post are too.

The one I really wanted was in a 95 GLT with low miles that I came across last winter. That wheel was a beauty, but there was no key so it went to the crusher.

Give this company a call:
http://www.crankshaftsupply.com/

The tech who sold me a connecting rod when I rebuilt my 850 had shelves full of engine parts, including a bunch from Volvos.

Somebody on here suggested taking out the stuck axle by removing the one on the opposite side and using a long punch or 1/2" extension and a heavy hammer to knock the stuck one out from the inside out. It might work if you can go straight through one side to the other.

I'm questioning the steering wheel not because of the spline, I'm sure it would bolt up. I'm wondering about the horn and SRS connections. Why would I want another steering wheel? If there's a really nice GLT style I would swap it into my base 96 855. Not sure about electricals and bolt ups of 98 se...

Heading to the upull tomorrow where there are a couple of 98's. Actually, it's the seat belt retractors I need.

I know that most of the parts I'd be interested in will cross over to my 850's, not sure about those two items.

I came close to jamming one, which is how I know it can happen. It was an O'Reilly axle, I don't recall the brand. I thought the circlip seemed loose when I bought it, but went ahead anyway. Like I said, it hit solid steel. A local shop manager told me to wail on it and it will go in. I didn't wail ...

Keep us posted!

Another cautionary tale that doesn't necessarily speak to the quality of the cv joint—it's the loose fitting circlip that doesn't know it's supposed to contract fully into its groove as it moves into the tapered receiving piece. Instead, it hits the face of the receiving piece that's flat, not getti...

There are 2 problems with the rear brakes that eventually cause hair loss on the frustrated P80 owner. The main one is the seized brake line fitting at the rear wheel calipers. Sometimes you can get the left side fitting to loosen, the right side is almost always extremely hard to impossible to crac...

A little history. A month ago, 3 miles from home, engine was hard starting and would hardly run. Up until this point, the idle had always been normal, ~ 750 and it has regularly started and run well. After 3 miles of the engine pitching conniption fits I finally made it home. Discovered the next day...

You might want to swap in a headliner from a car with a sunroof, so you'd have a nice neat opening on the inside.

Not surprising, I guess, that the updated spec is only + 30 degrees; 120 would be a powerful lot of torque, even for that large nut.

The AWD would probably have a splined rear hub since it's powered. I'm curious why the torque spec would be different for the same hub/bearing on 2 different models.

Great, thanks.
It looks like the same bearing/hub is used on all 850's and on up to 2000 V70. True?

I've got a noisy rear bearing I'm getting set to replace. Does anybody know the torque for the axle nut? One post I read on replacing the front hub said something about greasing the lip on the inboard side of the bearing. Is that the same on the rear hub?

A couple of concerns to keep in mind. Models with a factory sunroof have a stiff corrugated steel band that runs under and up against the roof panel and across the roof right behind the sunroof opening. This band ties in to the top body rail on both sides providing support for the quite flimsy roof ...

Yup, the lock tab is the problem. And unfortunately, the T25's are not accessible with the wheel at straight ahead. The car will be in the crusher in a week or 2, so making a mess of the cylinder housing to get the cylinder out shouldn't cause anyone to be distressed. Would a heavy hammer and a heft...

Two questions, actually. My 96 base 850 has the plastic steering wheel. I know of a 95 850 T that has what I guess is a leather covered, nicer feel, grip and appearance. There's no key for the car. Can the key cylinder be removed with appropriate tools, so I can get at the wheel nut? Also, would the...

The 99 and 00 xc's that I've seen at the junk yard all had ATE double piston, apparently the same caliper that's been used on the 850' since 93. If the mounting hardware is the same,you might be better off to source a pair of used ATE's and use as is or rebuild them. A shop in Minneapolis that can r...

I looked this up recently, also, due to same symptoms in my 96 base 850. I haven't solved mine but I will explore one suggestion: the control module in the fuse box. Somebody confirm this, I think it's the one next to the headlight module. In that post I think someone suggested cleaning the contacts...

Compared to all the the other little things that add up, still on the fence about them. If they're still available this week I'll be giving it some deep thought.

The XC90 strips are slightly modified from the 850's. The set I saw had no peeling and I thought would like nice on my GLT wagon. But the yard charges $2.00 per foot for trim and those strips are about 10 feet long. Yikes.

Would you pay $40.00 for the set? Plus tax, of course.

A couple of weeks ago my 96 850 na base seemed to misfire just slightly going on an errand. I parked and when I tried to start it again it was very hard starting, which it never is. By this time, it's dark outside. I got it going, barely, with a lot of accelerator jiggling. There were many traffic l...

Like abscate said, the hard brake line fitting at the rear calipers on 850's is often impossible to break loose. But if you follow that line to just in front of the rear wheel it screws into a "splitter". On the 850, those fittings, at the splitter, always crack loose quite easily. A small vice grip...

Pics?

The bolt on bumper brackets for the 93 850 sedan are different for each side. I think all later p80's are the same for both sides.

I'm not surprised they use 2 on each evap connection, just like the dryer gooseneck.

I have 2 96 850's. Last summer, I went through both systems, adjusted their clutch gap (shim removed), cleaned up all the seats in the o-ring connections and installed new o-rings. I need to do a close check on all those connections to make sure that's not where I'm losing pressure. That would be an...

I had those all apart last summer, so they'll come out easily.

Ah, solutions. There's nothing like experience and a little Yankee ingenuity to get things done! I did have a second thought about the stuck springlocks at the firewall. The problem getting those apart is with the pipes anchored to the coil you can't wiggle them loose. But, sure, cut them off, leavi...

Two problems I can foresee: running into broken dash mounts and really stuck springlock connectors at the firewall. I haven't tackled broken dash mounts but have read a couple of tutorials and viewed the pics. I'm wondering if ABS sheet stock (which I have) together with JB Weld might be a fairly ea...

Mine is a 96 855. The platform is the same, no?

Great! I haven't made the appointment yet, but am thinking I'll need to attend to it this fall. I'll get a medical opinion on its progression in the next few weeks. I'll stay in touch on details. I need to order the coil. Do you recommend a particular brand and source? I haven't scoped it. I do have...

I agree with **all** the comments! abscate's insight on the orifice tube possibly getting clogged helps with a decision; if that happens, then where are you? abscate, how about doing one more? A nice number like 5? I'll be heading in the vicinity of New York on my way to Toronto to get a hernia fixe...

Last summer I went through all a/c connections, cleaned them up and installed new o-rings, took off the compressor and adjusted its clutch and installed a new dryer. The system worked great for the rest of the season. This summer, the system was blowing barely cool air and the compressor was cycling...

The strut post has a shoulder that is supposed to sit up against the underside of the bushing in the spring seat. Then, the crossnut that you can't see from above because it's under the large mount washer on top, tightens down onto the top of the springseat bushing. Properly installed, that prevents...

Autozone (Duracraft) has what you need. 12 bucks. Plus it even has an auxiliary pigtail with bullet plug.

For the 850, 32 inch seems just about right.

https://www.autozone.com/ignition-tune- ... 6_309932_0

Once again, after 5? years I've got a couple of leaky seals on the 93 850. I think I used Elring last time. Searching around, I came across this 2016 post which concludes that Cortico and Elring are the same item—and that Corteco is considered OEM. https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic....

Re: using Volvo originals is why I harvest decent looking calipers from upulls. The other aspect that abscate finesses is the frozen rear brake lines. Not only might the line itself seize on the nut, but at least on the right rears, the nut threads usually seize in the caliper. If you are able to ge...

I had mine off, so I could hear the ball valve inside when I tilted or inverted it. It makes sense that it somehow would create a vacuum, but if the tank isn't full, would there be enough negative pressure on that line, from the valve to the tank, to pull a vacuum on the empty space in the fuel tank...

In my opinion that would be a loss. https://www.usatoday.com/story/money/cars/2018/09/05/stick-shift-manual-transmission/1131578002/ BTW: thankfully, the 360C is just a concept, probably spawned out an imagination fueled on magic mushrooms. But then, 50 years out, who knows what the future might hold?

I don't understand how the rollover valve actually works, since it's not on the fuel line. I replaced the decayed hoses on mine (1/4" ID silicone fuel line for small engines from O'Reilly Auto), but can somebody explain how it stops the flow of fuel. Related, there's another small device just ahead ...

The perch height difference in Erik's pics is pretty distinctive. When I pull the XC struts I'll place them next to the correctly spec'd units they replaced, just to put a tape measure on the difference. I'm wondering if the XC springs are the same as other P80's, and it's just the strut perch that'...

Erik: thanks for the pic. Clearly shows the perch height differences. Good suggestion on the hardware.

Trim Coat mentioned above, looks like an effective option. Add another $9.99 for shipping to Minnesota. https://www.autobodytoolmart.com/sem-trim-paint-aerosol-p-15327.aspx?msclkid=dc1f2973e1ed19987f1672f3ee48a191&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Bing%20Shopping&utm_term=1100001936192&utm...

Neil: The Sachs label is still prominent and clear. I didn't look closely for part numbers. I'll check tomorrow if I don't get rained out. I'm pretty sure it's an XC that I pulled them from. The pnp site doesn't designate the model beyond v, s, etc., and the year, so I can't get that detail remotely...

Well, I thought I had a nice find. The struts, springs and top assembly from a 2000 V70 XC look just like those in my 850. And they actually bolt up. And the ride is what I'm looking for. But the front end is way too high with them installed. I can feel the cv joints chafing at an angle. So they nee...

Since you have the replacement on the ground, why not pull the pan and the rod caps on that one for a quick inspection of the bearing inserts and journals. Bag the caps with their inserts to keep wear parts together. If there's any discoloration of the bearing inserts that might not be the best moto...

If you find the bearings in perfect condition one possibility might be a clogged oil galley from some crap that was in the replacement pan and got through the filter. For some reason, it seems like your top end is intermittently getting shorted of oil. If you suspect galley clogging, half a can of S...

Those garter springs get rusty. If so the spring might not be pliable enough to slip over the "horn" and then fully constrict again enough to hold the union together. Were it mine, I think I would try to get a little lube/solvent such as PB Blaster into the spring. It's a tough call. You don't want ...

I haven't read this whole post so I apologize if any of this is redundant. Always be sure your car is SAFELY SUPPORTED. THE SAFEST SUPPORTS ARE PROBABLY SQUARE CUT PIECES OF TIMBER AND WORKING ON A LEVEL SURFACE. Replacing the rear calipers on an 850 can be really hard because their brake line fitti...

Others will probably reply to this question: It's pretty close to 5/8" ID if I recall correctly.

Helpful info!

So the good news is that not only would I get the roof rails and sections of trim but the donor trim will also be a little more prominent in a good way. I think its coating is in tact.

Oh, crap. I'll find out on next visit. On my 855's the trim pieces that are regularly one continuous section run from the back across the windshield trim strip and down along side the windshield. There isn't anything overlying them. So it will be interesting to see how the sectioned ones for the roo...

Neil: This is helpful. But I'm puzzled about the section (of trim strip?) from the windshield needing to be cut. On the car I looked at, the various sections seem already cut to length. Is there a reason the front-most one can't be pried out like the others?

Among the goodies I'm harvesting from these 2 carcasses is a set of roof rails if they will fit my 850. I realize these cars represent the end of the P80 run, but I'm noticing that some things are different. Hoping the roof rails will cross over.

Helpful info. Thanks! I've been running 195/65 15's on that car and am generally content with the roadability of them. I'll probably continue with that size. At $36 per wheel and some usable rubber remaining on them, it still seems a bit superfluous, but if they're straight, plus the appearance fact...

A couple of the steel wheels on my base 855 have slight runout, one visibly bent. I've spotted a set of aluminums at the JY that look pretty good. Will they have the correct inset?

@viper69: that's some testimonial! Do the vendors know about this post? They should be paying you a commission. Looks like the one I'll be installing.

Is this tool now available again?

Odometer(s): That's the next fix. None of my 3 odo's are now working. FCP actually sells a kit containing both gears plus 4 lamps (for while we're in there) for $29.00. I think they're from the same vendor. I seldom use the horn either. But just in case, on my 93 that had failed contacts I just inst...

Glue. Hmmm. Hadn't though of that. Or maybe JB Weld used the same way? But then if having it there or not doesn't make a difference, well the easiest fix like Rattnalle suggested is to keep it in the spare parts kit and not worry about it. I'm not sure how long it had been sitting on top of the muff...

Is this the best repair for the inevitable 850 horn failure?

http://www.odometergears.com/documentat ... lation.pdf

Neil: The car is a 96 850 wagon. The forward catalytic converter has a shield over it; that one is fine.

The muffler in question is further back, but forward of the rear suspension links. It's the larger pancake style. The single exhaust system has only the one pipe and one muffler.

Four studs are toast, shield resting on muffler. There doesn't seem to be as easy way to get fasteners in above the muffler. Seeking an easy solution.

Calgary is probably out for abscate, since he prefers to travel by boat.

Ooof. Something like that first came to mind. With all the other little details and an axle boot to replace, well, time does slip away. Running it without the shield?

True about the corrosion protection. There are a couple of rust spots on both of my 96's, plus exhaust and the top of muffler heat shield that was lying on top of the muffler. All 4 studs were rusted off. Not sure what to do with that.

What's strange is there don't appear to be any water leaks, just that hole right beside the seat mount that could admit moisture. As a Minnesota car—new to me in 2011, but records from local Volvo dealer up to 2006 and local owner after 2006 known—the only salt exposure would be from road salt and t...

Yeah, it looks like the corrosion that builds up around a battery terminal, only it almost looks like cigarette ash—a huge mound of it. There's a hole through the floor panel right beside the mount point that's corroding. Moisture might be coming up through there and keeping the carpet in that area ...

This car was stored outside for the winter with no battery. When I started driving it recenly, I noticed a pile of ash almost an inch high around the left front seat mount bolt. There's a hole right next to that seat mount that goes through the floor panel. It almost looks like there was a different...

A bearing that is worn enough to cause a knocking sound should be dropping oil pressure. At idle is your oil pressure light coming on?

Make sure your dash HVAC controls are correctly set: both heat/cool dials all the way to cool; recirculate switch on; on/off switch should be "on" position (LED out). Also, there are 2 relays under the dash, on the HVAC unit; either could be bad. If your a/c clutch is set right and your system is pr...

Got it. Will Do. Thanks!

Now that's teamwork, epitomized. I learn just enough functionality with the many tools I use to get the basics done. Hopefully, RickHaleParker will stick around MVS!

Now, how can I replace the large files on GD with the reduced size versions?

Thanks for the offer of hospitality! Maybe I'll travel up there some day.

abscate: last summer we had a link on MVS that successfully accessed the Google Drive page and download the file. I can't find it now on the MVS site. The file is large which is causing a download problem. I think that's why it wasn't directly uploaded to MVS. Now I can't find the original text file...

Matt, I think the file was too big to upload. I've only used the GD twice, last year being the second time. I had successfully placed a link on MVS that brought visitors to my site where they could download the file. I've searched MVS but now can't find that link and don't recall how I created it. I...

Last year I went through the a/c systems on my 2 96 850's and took some pictures. Anyone tackling this task might find some of this helpful. It's saved in pdf format here:
https://drive.google.com/drive/my-drive

Hmmm. Let's see; it's quite a while since I last took a little jaunt to Calgary.....
Thanks for thinking of me anyway!

Today, I checked out the 99 and 2000, the differences are visually obvious, so that swap is a no go.

@Neil: Thanks for checking VIDA. Based on what you discover, if the later liners look similar to the 850's, I'll have my 850 with me tomorrow, so I can pull a liner and compare it visually to mine before I buy it. But since it's a chore cutting out the rivets I'd rather know in advance if it isn't l...

See last post. I need to replace a front fender liner on one 850 and possibly a rear on the other. The only vehicles available right now at the yard I'll be visiting are a 99 and 2000. I realize there are some styling differences between those years, but not having them side by side or any experienc...

Before tracing out the electrical issue, I would make sure you're a/c clutch clearance is really close, as in .3 mm. Much wider than that, clutch won't engage the compressor. The gap can be measured from under the car, quick fixes with zip ties are described on this forum. I'm wondering if a stuck r...

Okay, so that's one more thing that it probably isn't. Well, maybe. Anyway, if you're really flummoxed, you could try the same test, running it just to try it without the sock filter.

You haven't mentioned the brand of fuel pump you installed. If it's a Walbro, and you can't figure out what's causing the roughness, try pulling the pump, removing the filter and reinstalling it just to try it. The Walbro I bought wouldn't start my 850 at all. Finally discovered the sock filter that...

Thanks for the info. FCP lists the "genuine Volvo" parts number, but seems to indicate it's a Rein product. I'll call them tomorrow to clarify.