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Is it a case of the lower electrode bending upward or the center electrode dropping downward?

I wonder..... Getting several random error codes including P0700 Transmission Control Module Error....

I wonder if the problem might be the TCM connection may be flaky and needs to be reseated just as the ECM needs to be removed, connections cleaned, and reinstalled in some instances.

cn90 wrote: ↑Sun Oct 18, 2020 11:06 am Actually, I don't mind saving money as long as you know ahead and drill the holes bigger before installation...

Oh, also....
The original clips are better quality and better fit than the aftermarket ones so I re-used the original ones.

cn90 wrote: ↑Sun Oct 18, 2020 10:35 am Now I am curious in terms of fluid source...

- Is it from the top squirting downward...or...

- From the wiper motor spindle squirting up?

On my 2003 V70 Base model it's from the wiper motor spindle squirting up.

This is the part I don't understand... With Volvo Genuine part so cheap (can't remember but around $6/each), why would anyone play with Chinese parts? Here is a Volvo dealer pricing at $6.21: https://www.volvopartswebstore.com/products/Volvo/Sliding-block/1125295/3509416.html Of course I have used ...

I found the aftermarket ones to have smaller holes so I drilled them out just a bit.

Note how the OE part slides further down on the tapered punch. The last photo shows difference in hole diameters before drilling out the aftermarket one.

So does the car now have steering bump stops installed or not?

Some of the rear wipers park to the right and some to the left. I don’t know what years went what direction. If you have the wrong wiper for your particular car then the nozzle deflector will spray downward rather than up onto the glass.

Have you closely examined the condition of the wire harness and connections between the ETM and ECU? It’s somewhat of a common point of failure.

If you didn’t loosen the hub(s) and/or sprockets from the cams when you replaced the belt then you should ignore all the talk about pre-loading the hubs. Just get all three sprockets on their marks and install the belt. Double check the marks after you’ve set the tensioner.

Do NOT loosen the three bolts or you risk being more lost than you may or may not be now. I agree with waiting a day or two to see if it throws a code. I had mine one tooth off and it didn’t throw a code on initial start up. It waited for the second start up to light the CEL.

Want the easy way out? Try Trico 16" refill, the refill, not the whole blade. It takes less than 60 sec to replace the refill. PS: Or try Trico 47-600 Refills and cut it to factory length. https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=64540 Cn90, where do you get Trico refills? I can’t f...

I just checked my 2003 V70. The blade is just shy of 16". For replacement I purchased one of those $4.00 Walmart blades and removed the rubber blade along with the two metal stiffeners that are imbedded in the slots in the rubber. I may have cut the aforementioned "shyness" from the 16" blade and st...

Since you only hear it at speed, maybe something is flapping in the wind. Mud flap, splash pan, front chin spoiler, ?????

I only know Just enough about this stuff to be dangerous, but have you put a vacuum gauge on the intake to see if it is wondering up and down. I’m thinking that maybe some how when you tromped on the gas pedal that something on the turbo got stuck like the waste gate actuator so now you either get t...

I’m going to assume that the vibes exist at idle, both in gear and in neutral, and not just while driving. One way to help determine if the problem is a motor mount is to place a jack under the oil pan with a short length of 2x4 or 2x6 between the jack and oil pan to distribute the load to the outer...

Worn sway bar links can be diagnosed
by disconnecting the lower end and wiring the link back out of harms way. Then drive the car and see if it still clunks. It it does still clunk then You may have a worn out spring seat.

It seems I recall someone in a prior discussion saying that the switches were plug-n-play up to a certain model year, like around 2000, and then for anything newer you had to consider the programming. Maybe it was at the P80/P2 break???

They are not necessarily plug and play even though the P/N may be identical. The little white label(s) indicate how they’re programmed and that has to be a match between the old and new switches.

Having tried three or four different types of oil filter wrenches over the years, my favorite one is the canvas strap type. You can slip it onto the filter up in tight places and it is definitely “one size fits all. It does require a 1/2” drive to turn it. https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/toughon...

Ditto on using the properly fitting torx bit. Another thing that can help is to take a small punch - small enough to fit down into the bottom of the torx hole - and give it a couple of good raps with a hammer. What that does is slightly push the screw shank downward, in relation to the head, and rel...

If you’re not removing the cam hubs/sprockets then this video is a good one:

Does the following sound plausible?

Warmer engine and warmer intake air trigger a leaner mixture.

Leaner mixture causes pinging.

Pinging causes a retarded spark.

Retarded spark, in addition to maybe too low octane fuel, reduces power.

Is that to much of a stretch?

I'm not sure you can make a comparison between air output with heat vs air output with AC. The system probably wants to push air down to the footwell vent when the heat is on and more air out of the dash vents when the AC is on, especially when you have the "Auto" air control button selected. What h...

If I still own my 03 with 2.4 N.A. the next time it needs a PCV service I am going to consider replacing the manifold bolts with torx heads in order to make that one lower bolt easier to tighten. For some reason I have always been able to loosen it just fine with a crows foot and 1/4” drive socket b...

we put the battery jumper cables to it and it started right up Sounds to me like a case of not enough battery power, after cranking the starter, to adequately power the fuel and/or ignition system(s). If you haven’t done it already, try cleaning the battery terminals. After you do that and reconnec...

I’ve been there. Follow this link - it describes what I found:

viewtopic.php?t=47882

There is only one sensor and it drives both the gauge and the fan controller. It sounds like you’ve pretty well diagnosed it down to a faulty sensor. Maybe someone on the forum has a temperature vs resistance curve and can give you two or three data points to check.

If the pedal travels a shorter distance with a quick panic jab vs a slow and easy pedal application, that can be an indication of a master cylinder issue. (The piston seals seat more firmly against the cylinder wall when there is a “sudden” rise in fluid pressure against the front of the piston.)

I’m not sure if this would contribute to the leakage or not, but when you did the PCV service did you blow air through the engine port to make sure it wasn’t obstructed? That could cause condensed oil to back up into the hose and breather box. Could you have accidentally sliced the hose with the wor...

This might be a situation where the original Oetiker style clamp fits in better. But good luck making that swap with the manifold in place.

There are a couple different sized hoses that connect the breather box to the engine block depending on the year (or actually engine serial). You may have gotten a replacement with a large hose and you really needed the small one. That’s what happened to me when I ordered a replacement for my 2003 2...

Hang tight - Maybe someone here has the same headlights and can guide you through the process of temporarily applying direct power to the headlights to test the bulbs. Mine are the plain Jane headlights to I can’t tell you with certainty where you’ll find the connections on your high end lights. Pro...

Is EVERYTHING in the instrument cluster (DIM), like all the warning lights at start up, etc, non-functioning? Or are some things working and some things dead?

So a question for your mechanic would be, “If the car had the wrong TB P/N installed since who knows when, then why did it run perfectly fine for numerous years and then suddenly go bad?”

I spent a bunch of money, including $350 for a new Bosch throttle body, only to eventually find the problem to be a bad connection under the ECM. Consequently I have a spare throttle body sitting in a box - probably nothing wrong with it. At the time this all was happening to me my local Volvo Indy ...

As I recall there is only one circuit that passed through brake light switch so it “seems” improbable that the switch could partially fail in a way that it continues to illuminate the higher amperage bulbs and not the low amp LEDs. Did you check the switch open/close function with an ohm meter (with...

Volvo specialist thinks it may be a fault with the wiring harness that goes to the throttle body. He said he has seen them fail. I agree the harness from the ECM to the throttle is known to fail and that could explain the throttle-related fault code(s). But what about the other, seemingly errant, c...

I swear it seems Volvo revised their vac hose configuration every year. At a glance I would guess that hose prides manifold vacuum to the brake booster and maybe the evaporative system??? Can you can see where the hidden end originates under the manifold? If so I would think you should replace it ev...

I buy Hella brand bulbs from Summit Racing. Very reasonably priced, at least that’s what I’ve experienced.

Pete says “... Pissed I spent $500 or so in parts...” You’re not alone. I spent $350 on a brand new Bosch throttle body because of all the throttle position etc fault codes that I was getting due to a faulty ECM connection. That’s why I continually harp about checking that connection early in the tr...

Just as you say. It may be cool for say 5 to 10 miles. If it is a really HOT and miserable day. (maine doesn't have many. Then if I stop and the car has been sitting it might work for a short time again. but not for long. OK, so when it stops working is the compressor still engaged? Also, when it s...

Once it stops working, is it then totally out of commission until you go back to Rudy’s Ripoff Repair Shop? Or will it start working again the next day for a short period and then fail again?

Here’s the 2007 that the OP is probably also eyeing: https://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/cto/d/snellville-2007-volvo-v70clean/7145397819.html I saw it a couple days ago and started dreaming up reasons why I need to upgrade from my 2003 V70 2.4 NA and see if I could go grab the 2007. If that car is wh...

Idler pulley not sitting flush against the engine block?
Did you temporarily have the belt removed? Did it maybe get reinstalled in the opposite direction? (Guess it shouldn’t matter, but.........)

Perhaps ECM jolted loose by bouncing up and down the driveway? When I mentioned re-seating the ECM earlier in the thread I was thinking more about dirt and oxidation on the 16 year old connections rather than the unit shaking loose. (But hey, you may be right.) When you get numerous, and seemingly ...

I seem to recall you saying somewhere in the thread that you can clear all the fault codes and the car will run smoothly the first time you start it, but when you shut it off and restart it the second time it runs rough and starts throwing codes. Do I have that right? Also, can you run it as long as...

My 2003 V70 suffered the exact same symptoms. First make sure the compressor is engaging and not cycling off and on - that's the first indication of a failed evaporator sensor. To access the evaporator sensor you have to drop the kick panel over the drivers feet. The sensor just slides into the evap...

On both our P2 cars (2003 V70 2.4 NA auto and 2005 S80 2.5T auto) I found that the onboard mileage calculator always indicated SLIGHTLY worse MPG than if I calculated actual fuel burned vs actual miles traveled. I also found that I could get better mileage by NOT using CC. CC doesn’t have the abilit...

Before you shell out big bucks for new axles you might want to give Axles Unlimited a call and see what they would charge to rebuild you original units. I’ve had good service from them in years past.

Your fault codes seem to be all over the map. Have you tried re-seating the ECM yet?

If the reservoir has plenty of fluid and there are no leaks anywhere then the master cylinder is faulty.
Also, it might be that you are getting a brake pedal position code because the pedal IS going all the way to the floor.

They are blank no name coils. I will try and swap them around. And plugs I used bosch platinum. The ones with 4 prongs around the tips... With as many misfire codes as you’re getting I wouldn’t be surprised if you don’t have ANY known good coils to swap around. But before dumping a bunch of money o...

How many km on the spark plugs and what kind are they?

I had the clutch gap problem on my 03 V70 with just over 255,000 miles. I was able to add three shims to the front of the compressor clutch by removing the front tire and then removing the crank pulley access plate. The compressor and accessory belt were left in place. I cut the shims out of some .0...

One good feature of the non-turbo is the ease with with you can remove the ETM should that become necessary. The turbocharged versions' ETM is buried within and below the intake manifold. Just to complete the thought, the early design ETMs wear in a manner which results in the engine rpm hunting ra...

Decent price on 3309 at Summit Racing:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mob-123062

Thank you guys for the input. It seems every time I try to cheap out on parts it comes back to bite me. I live near Voluparts and they have OE for $31 including the tether so I think I'll do that. Even if the cheap brands work right they don't have a tether so I could see myself leaving it at the ga...

Oooops, I guess I drove off from the gas station and left the gas cap sitting on the roof of the car. (The tether broke years ago.) Funny thing is that I got NO CEL. Didn't know it was missing until the next fill-up. Has anyone replaced their OE cap ($35-40) with one of the aftermarket caps, ie Stan...

Are the front center axle-to-hub bolts good and tight?

In regards to VVT, some people say you need to tension the hub when you remove the belt, im not sure why. If the hub doesnt move and its at the timing mark why move it? As i understand it the VVT hub should only be tentioned when it has been removed from the shaft. Thank you for mentioning that. To...

2003 V70 2.4 NA, 255,000 miles.
Maintenance Pre-155,000 miles unknown. Full ATF flushes every 30,000 miles since then. Have found that slightly overfilling by about 1/2 pint eliminates any D to R or R to D transition hesitation. Has always up shifted and down shifted very smoothly.

Sometimes you can take a drift that is small enough in diameter to loosely fit down into the torx hole. Smack the drift a few good blows with a hammer. It will slightly force the bolt shank downward and relax some of the load on the threads, allowing you to more easily unscrew the bolt.

car-part.com has a few listed in the $25-$65 range from various wrecking yards, depending on the color you need:

http://www.car-part.com

RickHaleParker wrote: ↑Sat Apr 04, 2020 12:10 am
Things are pointing toward the previous owner had the head rebuilt but did not torque and stretch the head bolts.

Or they reused the old bolts and they DID torque them but now they’re over-stretched and weakened???

Possibly a restricted exhaust system?

What type/brand spark plugs and coils did you install, and is the evap system fault code the only one you're seeing?

Also, (long shot) do you have a fuel pressure gauge that you can connect and monitor while driving?

A few years ago I had my local Volvo Indy replace a spring seat for me. He laid a Volvo blue box part on the counter next to what I recall was a rein brand part. They looked identical except, on the rein unit, you could see where the molded “Volvo” name had been ground off - exact same location. htt...

Good chance the problem is frayed wiring up inside the LH tailgate hinge cavity. Read this thread:

viewtopic.php?t=47882

....I have bought some very good bright ones for under a $1 each that were polarity sensitive but also didn't fail if installed reversed. They were not marked in any way so you could readily know which polarity to orient them to. My experience exactly. Once I discovered the problem I went through a...

I converted the instrument lighting in 1800 to LEDs. I found the bulbs to be polarity sensitive. If I put them in one way they wouldn’t work. Turning them in socket got them working.

I’m going to risk asking the dumbest question..... Is there any way this could be a case of mixing LH for RH?

That warning system can be very sensitive. Make sure you have matching bulbs, both brand and wattage, on both LH and RH sides of the car.

I like Hella brand and they can be purchased rather inexpensively from places like Summit Racing.

Did you check the fuse for that door?

When you re-seated the ECM and TCM did you get the little pink latches completely slid back into the locked position?

Did you replace the hose that runs from the breather box up to the top of the engine? They like to split open just above the breather box and exhale an oily smell.
Also, when you serviced the PCV system, did you replace the little nipple fitting that attaches up under the intake manifold?

If it’s a Bosch throttle module for your 2003 S60 then it wouldn’t make sense to ship it off for a $600 rebuild when you can buy a brand new one for about half that price. By the way, the Bosch is plug-n- play so there’s no coding required. Here’s one: https://www.partsgeek.com/jcvjlbs-volvo-s60-thr...

I had a big problem using after market sliders rather than Volvo original - ended up having to do the job over again:

https://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/16 ... learn.html

Have you taken a good look at the condition of the CPS wiring, particularly the connector? Are the pins fitting snugly when you connect it? Are the wires still firm to the connector? Are any terminals pushed back into connector body?

Congratulations on BOTH new babies! I would try swapping in the fuel pressure sensor from the other car. We had a failing FPS in our 2.5T that caused missing problems like yours but it took FOR EVER to finally get a CEL. If that doesn’t help then I’d steal $10 from the diaper fund and go pick up a s...

Is it possible that when you removed the old heater core that you may have spilled some coolant into some sort of “electronically important” component?

The circuit board part number is one thing but it’s the stickers on the back side of the DIM that determine the compatibility. Since it sounds as though the OP has just a spare board without the rest of the DIM then it stands to reason that he wouldn’t know if it’s a compatible board without stickin...

Have you checked the resistance across the sensor's heater wires (with the sensor disconnected from the vehicle). I don't know what the expected resistance should be but I'll bet it's not either 1 ohm (indicating internal short) nor infinite (indicating an open circuit). Besides measuring across the...

The 6th and 7th digits of your VIN are the engine code. Try to find another engine from which the donor car carries the same code. Now, having said that, there may be ways to utilize a different coded engine with the swapping of certain sensors and other hardware but I'm not the right person to guid...

I hate to harp on this but did you try reseating the ECM/TCM into their connectors and getting them FULLY locked back in? The proper tool for doing this has dropped in price to about $15 USD. The Haynes manual even shows you how to fabricate your own Tool. If one of those connections aren’t snug the...

So now I got a new problem, I tried removing the ECM and TCM so I could inspect them to make sure that everything looked in its place and now after reinstalling them the car will not start. Getting a p0727 and p2121 code now. Car will crank but will not start. Did you use the lock/unlock tool to ge...

When the Serp belt snapped is there any way it could have damaged the back or bottom side of the ECM/TCM box and, more specifically, the connections on the bottom of the modules?

You may be right about the key - I don't know. Stand by and some more-knowledgeable-than-I folks will likely offer suggestions. In the mean time I think I can safely say DON'T let the guy start messing with an ECM replacement without first doing some exhaustive diagnostics. A drastic move like that ...

The plugs have only 2k miles on them and I bought the OE Volvo ones with the funky 3 pronged electrodes. Personally I'm not a big fan of those sort of plugs. If swapping coil(s) out doesn't fix it then you might consider a set of plain old copper core single electrodes like NGK BKR6ES. I've had gre...

Are you saying your fuel pump is pushing out 60psi yet you have 0psi at the injector rail?
Is the pressure gauge connected properly to the schrader valve?
What happens if you hold a rag over the schrader valve and depress the center valve core? Does it spray fuel?

Your logic makes sense. Especially when either one of the cam sensors throw a code AFTER the crank sensor code appears. I vote for fixing the p0337 first, then see what happens with the cam sensor faults.

The problem with jacking the car up to check for play in the CV joints is that when the wheel is hanging down the CV joints are now cocked at a different angle than when the car has weight on wheels like when driving it. Now if you can figure out a way to safely lift the wheel off the ground from un...

If the shaking increases with added throttle load that’s an indication of a bad CV joint.

Try disconnecting the vacuum hose from the booster and plug the hose. Then see if the problem disappears. If it does then you have a seriously leaking booster. NOTE: Be VERY careful if you try driving the car with the vacuum hose disconnected as you won't have any power assist and will have to press...

Before I remove the old T-belt I rotate everything to put the cam sprockets on their marks and then mark the crank sprocket and adjacent spot on the engine case with a Sharpie.

A handy little tool for these situations is a simple little thing called a Grip Scale. It’s a crochet hook looking thing that measures the depth of a hole and is usually marked in 1/16” or 1/32” increments. It may also be available in mm - I’m not sure. https://www.usatco.com/item/GRIP%2BSCALES/Grip...

The recall only covered certain VINs in certain southern (warm) states. Kind of a Volvo rip off, I know. You can call Volvo customer care to see if your VIN is included.

Prorated warranties are a scam that the big chain tire stores use to make sure they get you back in the store to spend some more money. Good chance your tire could have been patched but I’ll bet the store made it sound like “it HAD to be replaced and since you were smart enough to purchase the warra...

If the glove sucked inward real well at idle but then inflated when under load then it might just be that your engine has more blow-by than than the PCV system is capable of evacuating from the crankcase.

I don't know if any of these cars, especially a turbo with high mileage, would show negative crankcase pressure under that test scenario.

I’ve had two different W/W reservoir leaks. One was the rubber grommet where the filler neck is inserted into the top of the tank - only leaked if I filled the reservoir up into the neck. The other was the seam where the upper and lower halves of the tank are bonded together. It turns out that the d...

ECU removal tool: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Volvo-Ecu-Removal-Tool/111567238?wmlspartner=wmtlabs&adid=22222222223050222848&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=e&wl1=o&wl2=m&wl3=10354719167&wl4=pla-4577954126136069&wl5=&wl6=&wl7=&%20wl10=Walmart&wl12=111567238_0&wl14=volvo%20ecu%20removal%20tool&veh=sem&msclkid...

The cause of both the noise and the pulsating power steering may one in the same. Maybe the belt has stretched to the limit of the tensioner or maybe the belt is just very dry, either one causing the belt to slip on the P/S pump pulley? With the engine idling have an assistant crank the steering whe...

How about setting the front wheels up on ramps with the steering wheel turned to the “problem zone”, then have an assistant wiggle the steering wheel back and forth while you monitor the entire steering system searching for play? Try with both engine running and not running. Don’t forget the steerin...

The numbers on the white stickers on the backside of the DIM are what hold the keys to the castle. I’m not exactly sure which numbers matter and which ones don’t. But if you take a picture of the stickers and email them to a knowledgeable used Volvo parts house, like Erie Volvo, they may be able to ...

Believe it or not, on the last couple battery purchases I’ve found the best deal at the Volvo dealer. Plus you get one with the correct vent.

Looking at Craigslist I have noticed a lot of of XC90's for sale - they can't hardly give them away right now. If I was in need of some basic transportation an XC90 with 2WD and a 2.5T would be really tempting.

I’m guessing all those codes, or the majority of them, are residual from when the wiring shorted out. I would try clearing the codes and see what pops up when you try starting it again. In some cases, like an O2 preheater circuit for instance, the fault code will pop up simply by turning on the igni...

Been using Mobil 3309 for many years and many miles without any trans issues. Summit Racing has it for under $5/qt when buying in quantity.

The same temp sensor is utilized for both the instrument cluster gauge and the cooling fan control. So if the gauge is reading correctly then it's very likely the sensor is OK.

If it were me I’d try unlatching and re-seating the ECM in its connection. It’s known to get flaky with age. Other than the $15 tool to unlatch and relatch the ECU it’s basically a free thing to check. Also closely examine the connector at the ETM end of the harness to make sure it’s still well pinn...

You can try the sight below for a used parts search. Sorting results by distance from your zip code will possibly find what you need without having to deal with shipping:

http://car-part.com/mobile/index.htm

GlennG2759 wrote: ↑Mon Sep 16, 2019 6:48 am Just reading this post for future CA job.
Chrism, that 2 x 4/ chain method sounds good and pressing down with a knee or foot, would eliminate the need for a second set of hands.

Yep, you got the picture, GlennG.

I’m a little late to the game here but the way I’ve tackled it in the past was to hang a looped chain over the outer end of the CA and then slide a 2x4 through the lower part of the chain loop (below the CA). With the inboard end of the 2x4 resting under the subframe I had about three feet of it han...

Ask yourself:
How much room do I need inside?
How important is fuel economy?
How many miles do you drive per year?
How much HP do you need? (Is turbo necessary?)
Do you REALLY need AWD?

Volvo has probably built, sometime in the last 15 years, a model that fills the bill.

Check for voltage at the compressor disconnect when the car is shut off. If there is voltage present then there must be a relay hanging up somewhere that’s draining the battery.

As you rotate the engine the pointer on the tensioner will move back and forth a bit especially if it’s a new belt that’s been folded over in the packaging.

The 6th and 7th characters in the VIN give you the engine family code. You want yours to match the donor car.

https://www.volvotechinfo.com/index.cfm ... vinDecoder

Also now that the rails are stripped I am toying wit the idea with vinyl wrapping them. We also had an ice white S80 that we recently sold. It had the same peeling problem and I had considered a vinyl wrap as a solution. I don’t know why it wouldn’t work. Some how or another those trim pieces can b...

Jimmy57, So might that add some validity to my theory about the push rod between the booster and the MC? If the rod is too long it would start pushing the piston forward when you snug up the bolts. I always make sure I can mount the MC up to the front face of the booster without feeling the rod push...

If the booster and/or MS were ever replaced the installer may have not have carefully matched the push rod length to the original configuration. I’m not really sure if a too-long rod would cause your problem but it was interesting that loosening the MS helped. I would be inclined to try shortening t...

What is it that leaks oil so badly that you have to protect the hoses from it? Will the new engine put an end to the leaking?

I had mine replaced about four years ago after I cracked it with my elbow when removing the shift lever. It took the guy all of about 25 minutes start to finish. At the time it was about $140 for a Pilkington without rain sensor. If you have a rain sensor you’ll pay a bit more.

If your old DDM has a little white sticker with two or three numbers on it then you want to match those numbers to the sticker on the replacement DDM. I replaced mine a couple years ago with a junkyard part and as I recall I was able to match two of the three numbers. I also made sure the replacemen...

Thanks for the reply - but would this cause low/restricted air-flow as well? As I recall those linkages drive a couple different flapper doors on each side of the unit. I believe it could be affecting the overall flow especially if the problem is only on one side of the car. Is the airflow ALWAYS s...

There are plastic blend door actuators on both the LH and RH sides of the HVAC unit. The actuators on the drivers side tend to interfere with the removal and replacement of the heater core especially if they weren't “parked” in the correct position before beginning the disassembly. This can result i...

It’s a plane looking six point bolt on my 2003. I guess Volvo thought switching to five point would discourage some accidental removals.

From what I read about those codes, they apparently refer to the timing correlation BETWEEN the crank and cam(s) and not some much that the sensors are bad. How’s the condition and tension of the timing belt? Could it have slipped a tooth? Maybe a VVT servo issue? Just tossing out some ideas to get ...

I always thought the Volvo recommended procedure was a bit over-kill. If you want to release any residual pressure it’s easily done by spraying the fuel rail Schaefer valve into a rag.

I cut it down to 12.4mm and still can't get it to fit. Can you grind the socket down to a smaller O.D. up by the end that receives the extension? The closer to the top, the smaller the diameter. Someone in this thread mentioned that those bolts don’t require much torque so you may be able to remove...

Point well taken there. Of course we’re assuming that the person who is reassembling it will be able to torque that little bugger exactly right anyway? Mmmm, maybe.....

Another crazy idea I’ve considered for that pesky bolt..... The manifold flange is about 1/2” thick where the bolts go through it. What if you ground off 1/8” or 3/16” of material in the area of that bolt and then used a bolt that’s that much shorter. It would provide 1/8” or 3/16” additional cleara...

Consider replacing that bolt with a torx head bolt. It might make it easier on the next person that has to loosen it.

Have you done any recent work on one of the axles such it might not be fully connected at the splines? (Long shot, I know.)

“...Are you saying take it somewhere else after I replace everything?...” Oh, no, that’s not what I meant. I’m not real familiar with the inspection process in your state. But your original post sort of sounded like the same shop that does the inspection also does the repairs. Maybe I have that wron...

Is it wise to have the inspection performed at a shop that can profit from the outcome of that inspection?

When you had the serpentine belt off did you spin the tensioner pulley and listen to it? With the engine idling, a well placed (CAREFULLY placed) stethoscope or long screwdriver held to your ear can often zero in on a component with a bad bearing. You could also run the engine briefly with the serp ...

Try a wrecking yard.

Odd that the problem only arises after driving for 40 minutes. That would suggest it may be heat related. Have you flushed the fluid recently? Volvo recommends the Pentosin type fluid. Also, is there any chance the serp belt is slipping in the pump
pulley when it gets warm?

If the engine temp is not climbing above normal then the fan may not NEED to turn on. Is the gauge reading normal? Are there any indications that the engine is getting too hot?

Got a new fan off of a pristine 04 and replaced it tonight so we should see! I'm hoping it will be the fix, I’ll update when done! Please do let us know the results. I’m having the same problem with my 03 V70 with 240,000-ish miles. The AC will run all day long as long as I’m moving down the road o...

I replaced that hose on our 2.5t without removing the manifold. As I recall I DID remove the throttle body so that I could attack the connection at the breather box from the side.

Country of origin = Sweden.

Leaving the key in the ignition shouldn’t run the battery down. Leaving the key turned “ON” will run it dead.

If you can get the battery charged up and the engine to crank over, I would pull all of the spark plugs and check compression on all cylinders. If it’s blowing oil as bad as it sounds it may have a holed piston. Rate occurrence, I know, but.....

Is it just the shade that’s stuck open or the glass also? If the glass is shut with the shade stuck open then would it help to open the rear edge of the glass up into the vent position?

I would question whether you really need to replace that elbow.

At an asking price of $7000, I had to see where you’re located. India? Do Volvo’s fetch a premium price there? I’m guessing the seller is a dealer. Who else would have the guts to ask that much? As Archer mentioned, you need to count on some additional expenses after the purchase. A few things to as...

cypilot wrote: ↑Sun May 12, 2019 6:43 am Excellent. Many thanks. I'm going to pre-soak with Krud Kutter, then go from the front and see what happens.

Krud Kutter - perfect!
Purple Power is another good one.

I found this one in the garage. Is it close to correct?

If it has aftermarket tinting you should be able to see, and feel, the upper edge of the film near the the top edge of the rear passengers door windows.

Your diagnosis sounds logical. However one thing stops me from saying “fan controller for sure”. You’re only getting 0.03 vdc at the purple wire. That sounds quite low (3/100). I don’t know what the expected voltage should be. Is there any chance you misread and it’s actually 0.3? One of two things ...

I haven’t paid for a “professional” alignment in almost 30 years. The tape measure between the fronts of the wheels vs the trailing side of the wheels has given me the desired toe. Haven’t messed with camber too much but I’m considering making some sort of squaring tool that uses the garage floor as...

I’ve also swapped the coils around as well as the injectors with no change, I failed to mention that as well. The one thing I can think of is the timing jump bent valves, but it was only one tooth, or a faulty engine ECM. Have you checked the compression? If that’s OK you might try reseating the EC...

Devils advocate here.......

Did it make strange noises immediately after the clutch job?

Is there any chance the people that replaced the clutch forgot to to put oil in the tranny?

Does the speedometer work OK?

Also I’m wondering if there is some sort of electronic module at the wiper motor end of the system that could be the culprit.

I had a drivers window control switch (DDM) that misbehaved in somewhat the same manner - OK with the key at position 1 but acted up with the engine running. A replacement switch was the ticket.

You say you tried replacing the switch? Are you confident you installed a good one?

What happens if you just have the key in Position 1 (engine not running)?

Don’t assume a bulb is good by just looking at the filament. They often break down within the base where you can’t see the problem. If the metal bulb base is at all loose on the glass part then toss it.

It sounds like you’re getting fuel flow (maybe too much?) and not not enough spark. Are the coils bolted down snuggly? I believe they need to be in order to properly ground.

Is the fuel pressure sensor plugged in?

I would agree that the shield may offer some degree of protection. But after making many, many 850 mile trips across I20 at 80 mph that any fuel consumption penalty is negligible at best.

We’ve driven both our 05 S80 and 03 V70 for YEARS without splash shields and have not suffered for it. At first it bothered me but that feeling subsided over time.

With that many codes showing up within such a short time span I wouldn’t spend a dime on it until I unlocked and reseated both the ECM and TCM. Then if the codes persist start looking elsewhere.

Are you trying to mate a Volvo or other “amber turn signal car” with a trailer that is wired to utilize a common brake/turn signal circuit like the older US cars were wired?

Are you using the Volvo trailer wiring kit?

Sounds like you've got one heck of a leaking brake booster. Try disconnecting the vacuum hose from the booster and plug the hose. Then see if the problem persists. Be careful if you drive the car with the hose disconnected as you will have to apply MUCH MORE foot pressure on the pedal to stop.

I never had good luck using "designer" plugs in a Volvo. Going all the way back to our 1972 144, the cars just don't like them. But of course the auto parts stores will always tell you the latest platinum-titanium-iridium-kryptonite-whatever exotic metal is the way to go. They make lots of money sel...

This morning I removed the brake pedal position sensor. I replaced it with one from an XC90 that had no ABS warnings. The problem has not gone away. Is this the part you replaced? http://i.ebayimg.com/images/i/230922126802-0-1/s-l1000.jpg Also, have you considered the possible failure or misadjustm...

It would be interesting to borescope a couple of the combustion chambers both before and after the "cleansing" and see how much good it really did.

If I can offer the cheapskate’s side of the PCV issue, on the turbo engine you can pretty much get away with taking it apart and flushing every thing out. Invariably you will need to purchase the little nipple fitting that attaches to the underside of the intake manifold - around $30. You’ll also ne...

Marcobrick wrote: ↑Thu Mar 14, 2019 9:58 pm The brake failure message appeared while driving home after having the brakes bled by his local mechanic.

Might the mechanic have accidentally introduced air into the system? Or might he have pushed the pedal to the floor repeatedly and possibly damaged the piston seal?

Item #14 in this parts breakdown.

https://www.volvopartswebstore.com/show ... evel=28254

Be aware if LH vs RH, BLIS or no BLIS , etc.

There was a recall issued for leaking fuel pumps:

https://www.nhtsa.gov/vehicle/2001/VOLVO/V70#recalls

When doing the glove test, you'll know within a few seconds if your PCV system passes or fails.

Check out these videos....

Glove Test:


PCV System service video:

Not sure if this diagram is 100% representative of your car or not, but it appears that both turbo and N/A are plumbed the same: https://www.volvopartswebstore.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=238545&ukey_make=865&ukey_model=12011&modelYear=2002&ukey_category=7855&ukey_driveLine=464&ukey_trimLeve...

What kind of spark plugs did you install?

As I recall when I did this on my V70 (it was several years ago) I was able use to my floor jack and a block of wood under the oil pan and just lifted the engine a TINY bit - like whatever I thought the rubber motor mounts would allow - and that gave me enough room to get after the bolts.

This may be an ignorant question but can the VVT hub/sprocket on the new engine be replaced with the solid (non-VVT) sprocket from the old engine?

Regardless of the way it's done, I can see a need for a cam slot holding tool in order to get things in correct relationship.

The write-up I read says these are one-time torque to yield fasteners that should be replaced with new. 65 Nm + 90 degrees for the front bolt and 105 Nm + 90 degrees for the rear bolt/nut. Scroll to nearly the end of this document: http://www.v70xc.com/0/resources/how-to/pdf/replacing-control-arm-bu...

Replacement throttle bodies don’t come cheap - no need to replace, at least not yet. Clean it with some spray carberator cleaner and a toothbrush. When spraying the carb cleaner try to hold the throttle body in an orientation that doesn’t allow the carb cleaner to run into the holes for the butterfl...

I'm in the midst of cleaning out the garage in prep of moving back to GA. I've got a spare pump if you need it for the price of the postage. Do your windshield washers pump water OK?

NGK 6962 have those “V” Power electrodes. I’m not so sure they really work well in Volvo’s. I would have used BKR6ES (NGK 6364).

If nothing else they should have told you at the get-go, BEFORE they tore it apart, "Mr. hu5ker, we would be more than happy to look into your brake problem, however I must let you know that if we take it apart we have to replace everything inside, on both sides, for a total of $XXX.xx. NOT wait and...

You symptoms are indicative of worn out or loose control arm bushings. If that's the case, it will pull in the opposite direction of the bad side when you accelerate. In your case - pulls to the left - check RH control arm.

Also make sure the LH axle is properly engaged with the differential.

It looks like both versions might be available. The P/N for the one without the vac tube is 9202208. I think I would prefer WITH the tube if it’s still available.

While you’re in there I would seriously consider replacing the banjo fitting piece along with the hard plastic vacuum line that is part of it. That plastic line will eventually clog up rendering the PCV system ineffective. I saw on one if the dealers web sites that the banjo fitting and the attached...

Here are a couple links to previous DDM problem posts. One even describes the clicking and battery going dead: https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=26624 https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=23510 If there is a a small white label stuck on the module with numb...

Has anybody tried unlocking the ECM and TCM, cleaning the contacts and re-installing? Both the dealer and the independent should have the lock/unlock tool.

EngineeringBloke and precopster speak the truth. If you have an early P2, like up through 2002 with the Magnetti Marelli throttle, then yes it will likely need programming. I've never owned a so equipped car but I believe what everyone has reported. But on the later P2's with the Bosch throttle, it'...

abscate wrote: ↑Sun Feb 17, 2019 6:38 pm Play on words , orange

Racket is a word for a someone scamming or not being up front

It would help if my phone and I would spell it right.

Sounds like the problem isn’t so much the rack as it is the racquet.

I'm curious if you lifted each wheel, one at a time, from under the lower control arm/ball joint. That way you would be analyzing with the suspension and tie rod in a close-to-normally-loaded position.

We removed both computers one at a time and then added one back in and nothing changed. At the end of the day, with the TCM and BCM removed VIDA displayed these errors. Are you saying that you ran VIDA diagnostics while one or more components were removed? I don't possess a VIDA/DICE setup so I'm n...

The fact that you turned the ignition on to Pos II and got an error message before the engine was even running may be somewhat telling.....

May be time to re-seat the ECM and TCM. (That's my standard first try fix for anything except a flat tire.)

I had the heater core replaced in 2017. Well, wouldn't you know, I hit a pothole 2 weeks ago, and the heat went out again. Since my heater core is relatively new, is there something that could have come loose when I hit the pothole? It worked fine before I hit it. I wonder when they replaced the co...

Bavarian Speed,
How did you seal the housing back up after installing the new diaphragm?

Not so sure those things are good junk yard purchases I forgot to mention also that they really run smoother/faster with some light weight lithium grease smeared deeply into the "U" channels. They'll probably last longer too if there is less friction between them and the channel. Some silicone spray...

The P/N is 3509416

https://parts.volvoofnorthmiami.com/p/V ... 09416.html

According to the online listing it can cause reproductive harm. I'm not sure what people are doing with it that it would cause reproduction harm.

I think I still have the bag they came in. If so I'll check the P/N on the label and get back.

I just looked at one I have out in the garage. The boot has three or four "barb" seals just under the lip that hold tight to the hole in the engine. I think if you shoved a putty knife or large screwdriver under the boot lip and pressed inward with some authority and work your way around the coil yo...

This may save somebody a bunch of aggravation.... Once again I've had to repeat a repair due to using cheap aftermarket parts. When will I ever learn?!?! The replacements that I found on Amazon.com were so "favorably priced" that I couldn't pass it up. When I snapped the bargain sliders onto the end...

I've been working on a project to convert the instrument lighting in my old 1800ES to LEDs and I've learned is that you can open Pandora's box when converting from incandescent to LED. One thing I found, at least in my case, is that I couldn't just run the + wire to the bulbs and ground them through...

That's just a reminder to perform scheduled maintenance, especially an oil change. I believe it pops up every 5000 miles or thereabouts. (I just track of the mileage in the maintenance log and usually end up turning the light off BETWEEN oil changes.) Reset procedure per IPD's web site: 2001 Volvo S...

You'll probably want to go with a 2003 or newer in order to avoid the quirky transmissions and to get a Bosch throttle body vs the Magnetti Marelli. A verifiable maintenance record is quite valuable. Don't buy anything with a check engine light on or if it "just needs a tune up" - if it was a simple...

You are squeezing whatever cable lock device is present, right? What about that little square hole next to "Germany"? Can something be inserted there that would help release the cable? Unfortunately the key needs to be turned to either Pos #1 or #2, I can't remember which, in order for it to let go ...

How about doing a compression check on all five cylinders to see if you even have a healthy engine to begin with? Then, if compression is good, delve into the ignition and fuel systems.

XC70Rider wrote: ↑Tue Jan 22, 2019 9:05 am
This kit has the same size pintle caps as our OEM injectors

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-sh ... 58425.html

I don't see any pintle caps in that repair kit.

When was the last time you installed new spark plugs?

FPS failures are VERY common. So much so that Volvo OK’d a one time free replacement for certain VIN numbers. Have the dealer check to see if your car is included.

After much wiggling, swearing, praying and speaking in tongues I was able to get the key to the III position, but if I turn it to "0" it still sticks at times. I then have to go through the same song and dance to get it to the III position. Right now I just leave the keys in the ignition in III and...

abscate wrote: ↑Wed Jan 16, 2019 7:41 pm That's an aftermarket replacement part and quality of most of those are suspect.

Or hit the Pick-n-Pull and grab two or three OE Volvo solenoids for a fraction of the price. Chance are at least one will work.

I read where loose cam sprocket bolts can cause that fault code. Don't know if that's true or not. But here's a question: While the solenoid is removed from the engine is it OK to crank the starter over several revolutions to push the old thick oil out of the passage way? I've always questioned how ...

Just a few days ago I was quoted approx 3 hrs x $140/hr = $420 total labor. That's in zip code 76132.

Now, the horrendous oil leak I have, due to not servicing the PCV on time, is another story.....

Some, or maybe most, of the components that are electronically "married" to the car via programming have a sticker on them with a printed number(s). If certain numbers on the old part's sticker and the replacement part's sticker match then the replacement will work without reprogramming. I have been...

Thanks for the links, ND.

Even if the things didn't last forever, the simplicity makes it rather attractive.

Thanks for the great info, Paul. Yes looking for FWD - something to replace our 2005 S80 that's starting to reveal its age. We were actually looking for a 2015-2016 S80 4 cylinder but they seem to have become scarce all of a sudden. So in order to get adequate rear leg room AND good gas mileage we s...

Has anyone installed any of these subframe bushing "reinforcers", for lack of a better name? https://blog.fcpeuro.com/how-to-replace-volvo-subframe-bushing-inserts Do they work? Do you just tap them in with a light hammer and then reinstall the washer/bolt/etc.? Or should I forget that whole idea an...

I'm mildly interested in purchasing a 3.2 S80 in the 2012-2014 range and would probably want to stay under 60,000 miles. Current rides are a 2003 V70 2.4 NA and a 2005 S80 2.5T so I've kinda become familiar with the whole white block FWD thing. Issues are creeping up with the current S80 (205,000 mi...

veektor wrote: ↑Sun Dec 30, 2018 5:44 pm
I haven't been able to find a definitive engine cross reference, but just judging by the Bosch ECM part number, I think both of my donors should be fine.

I believe it's the 6th and 7th digits of the VIN that have to match in order to assure a compatible engine swap.

Good luck!

The upper spring seat has rubber cushioning. But the lower seat is metal-to-metal. Just make sure that once it's all together that the spring is clocked to a position that puts the lower end of the spring coil all the way against the bottom of the spring pocket.

Once the AC stops blowing cold will it start blowing cold again after a while or do you have to shut the AC off for a while before you can turn it back on and get get cold air again? Also, when it stops blowing cold dies seem to you that the volume of air flow diminish? With the mechanic finding the...

I would agree with voltech1 about both the slider pieces in the drivers door and that, since you lost ALL functions in other door, that it either blew a fuse or the harness connector at the door jamb has failed. As far as replacing the PDM goes, it can be done without any reprogramming, HOWEVER, the...

On both our 2003 V70 and 2005 S80 that darned little dipstick likes to hide under hoses etc. I would think that in 2006 they still had a dip stick but maybe not?????

Have you tried recalibrating the window movement? Resetting top window position 1. Open driver's door and locate appropriate fuse in passenger compartment fusebox (left side of dashboard). #35 is driver's side, #36 is passenger side. 2. Lower the window you want to adjust as far as it will go. (if y...

When the arms were disconnected, did you slide the window all the way up and down in the tracks to make sure it was not binding or displaying unusual resistance anywhere along the way?

Anyway, I decided to just yank the cam covers off the 2 motors and swap the non VVT intake cam from the old motor onto the new motor. My old motor didn't have VVT on the intake cam. Will be less headache in the long run and I won't have to deal with that pulley wearing out again. If I read this rig...

Did you do the recalibration procedure where you pull the fuse while window is going auto-up? Also, The cheapskate in me bought some aftermarket blue slider gizmos from Amazon and although they appeared identical the hole that snaps onto the ball was WAY too tight. It would have caused big problems ...

I've started the engine momentarily without the accessory belt on, however I had the crank pulley installed. If you don't have the crank pulley on, what will keep the sprocket in place? By cranking the engine over with the exhaust cam being 180 out you may have cooked the goose. Instead of the valve...

Rick, Yeah, I'm aware of the Geely ownership and that most models are still built in Sweden or Belgium (or now US also). But it seems I read somewhere that all of the Inscriptions (longer wheel base and back seat leg room) are being built in China. The standard length S60 is not of interest to my wi...

Hello late Model Forum, Does anyone know if the “B” pillar shoulder harness anchor is adjustable up and down on the late model S60s, particularly the Inscription? My 5-foot wife complains that the belt cuts into the side of her neck and if Volvo hasn’t incorporated an adjustable anchor by now (like ...

Are you checking both fuse panels - engine compartment and drivers dash board?

Check the mating surfaces on both the pan and under the bolt head and make sure there are no scrapes or grooves that may be creating an outward path for the oil to leak. Also examine the washer for lateral grooves. (Very light circular grooves around the circumference of the washer can be expected a...

Depending on your location, this site may help you find an engine: http://www.car-part.com/ If you pull one from a wrecking yard like Pick-n-Pull, look for a donor car that has suffered terminal body damage - good chance the engine/trans were still working OK up until the crash. If there isn't signi...

I thought that if you have a problem with the siren, then it immobilizes the car. I've had a bad siren in my 2003 V70 for about a year now. Although I get "faulty alarm system" message (may not be the exact wording) for about a half minute after starting the car, it does NOT inhibit the engine star...

You either have an oil leak or whoever did the last oil change spilled a lot of oil filling it. Or the PCV system is so clogged up that it's blowing oil out from under the filler cap and its running down into the coil area. Or the upper PCV hose, the one that comes up from the oil separator box, is...

I though I would try 2004..... Same problem. Hmmmm.

I would probably start by making sure all of the wheel sensors and reluctor rings are clean and that the sensors are still connected up properly.

gtacs wrote: ↑Thu Oct 04, 2018 7:47 am I'm gonna check the pressure when I turn the key to position 2 before cranking...

Ooops, as you were too polite to point out, I had the key positions screwed up in my response. I've corrected that. Thanks!

Just curious - After you shut it off and the pressure has bled down to zero, what does the pressure read when you just turn the ignition on to position II but BEFORE you start cranking the engine? It sounds like it's not priming. (I'm assuming the car's pump should do a pre-start pressure build when...

I'd like the car to have as comfortable & safe of a ride on the highway so I think choosing 16" wheels will probably be a better choice since I need to get new ones anyway? V70's of that vintage came with either 16's or 17's and, at least on the front wheels, two different brake rotor sizes. It's l...

The way I test them is to disconnect the lower attach point and drive the car. If the rattle has now disappeared, you found the culprit.

Recently my wife was "lightly" rear ended at a stop light while driving her 05 S80. The offending driver was in an older, jacked up, Chevy pickup - a real Georgia "mudder". The truck had extended frame rails in front to accommodate the occasional attachment of a tow bar. One of those frame extension...

Good question - I suppose it depends on whether the lens assembly and casing are gas/oil resistant. I am sure some high end models are. Were it me I would go with the Ebay cheapy, cannot hurt to have, and test the casing with some gas. If it survives put a clear plastic bag that is gas resistant on...

Are any of these borescope types safe to use inside a drained gas tank? I'd like to see the pickup screen inside the tank on my project car. I can remove the gauge float and look in but one of the tank's baffles blocks my view of the pickup.

prwood wrote: ↑Thu Sep 13, 2018 6:12 am I just ordered a borescope, so I should be able to take a look this weekend without tearing things apart.

Did you order the type that connects to your cell phone? I'd be interested in knowing how well those work.

Last I saw they’re still available new from the dealer for around $60-ish.

Not glued together. Easily opened up. As I recall you only need to unscrew the circuit board piece.

On both of our P2 cars I’ve popped the switches open and cleaned the inured. Much quicker and cheaper than a trip to the junk yard which would possibly would have gotten me one in the same condition.

cn90 wrote: ↑Sun Sep 02, 2018 2:13 pm - Do NOT solder new wires, use butt connector.

Cn90, I’m curious as to your preference for butt connectors over solder. Is the environment too hot for solder?

That alt would be spinning about 50,000 RPM!

At this point as long as we take it easy on the gas pedal it doesn't leak too much, so I'm not planning to disassemble things right away. Before you do tear it apart you may want to perform a rubber glove test just to see if the PCV system is still working right. You wouldn't want to miss out on th...

I m not aware of any emissions related faults caused by the ECM connections. Virtually all engine management sensors are wired to the ECM. So if the ECM is not properly connected there could be a multitude of sensors that are unable to communicate their readings back to the ECM. This can lead to al...