Hell if I know what's wrong with the A/C. That's what this thread is about.

Yeah, true. But right now after I fix the a/c, I'm still looking at new brakes, a PCV job, and new struts at minimum. :\

I think I'm going to get a cordless soldering iron and have another go at it. Right now I'm about two steps away from trading the thing in. I'm having one of those "everything falling apart at once" moments where since the windows were down because of the A/C not working, the wind got intense and ...

Nice. So how much exposed wire do you need? Just enough to tie them together, then slide that thing over and put the crimp down? I left my long extension cord somewhere else, so soldering is a bit difficult for me right now.

What is that? Did you just crimp the wires together in there and bypass the harnesses all together?

I think there is a bit of corrosion around the little.. connector.. thingies that go in the harness that connects to the ECT. I can see the green on the wires. Is there an easy way to clean that up, or will I need to find a replacement harness? Or would I be better to try soldering my connection ...

One more thing. Was reading around and, having seen a similar post, I unplugged the ECT sensor and started the car. Coolant fan kicked right on, so that seems fine. Of course the car was hard as piss to crank. It's been hard to crank since before I originally replaced the ECT sensor (of course then ...

Alright, grounded out those middle wires and the fan turns on. Now what? And could that be related to the A/C not working (it won't turn the a/c compressor on because it thinks something is going on with the cooling)?

Ok, got it. So if that turns on, basically you're saying my ECU is hosed? Or could it be wiring further up that's the issue?

If they don't turn on, then what?

So pull the middle harness from the relay, connect some wire to each pin, and then touch it to the wire to the exposed pins in the middle of the relay?