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Why did you replace a perfectly good filter???!!!

Tape it up, Neil will buy it.

LOL try working on a Japanese car, where every fifth fastener is like this. Only one (or granted, a few) in the whole engine bay? I concede that the oil cooler lines may be the most annoying job on the whole P80 car but overall I see great design engineering, I find working on the Volvos orders of m...

Wish I could.

Does the second key (won't turn ignition) have a chip in it? Try putting it near the steering column while you turn the ignition with the first key. The chip just needs to be close by, its actual position isn't read or anything.

The hydraulic tensioner can confidently go two timing belt intervals i.e. 150k. Chuck is just explaining how to reuse it. Unless the tensioner has high miles save some $ and leave it.

If the collar isn't stripped out yet, no danger to leave the AG in. I would leave it. In which case you On my 06, the collar stripped out rendering it FWD only, I left it all together and ran it as is, then two years later the AG started making loud growling noises so I had to take it out. Stripped ...

Sounds like you're on it.

Once you get the trip odometer rest working, one way to keep that all working is to never push the reset when the car is in motion. Or just never push the mechanical trip odo reset again - which is easy to adopt once you get a trip computer installed!

Right - bulbs alone will not do it, the circuit/function must be activated. Not simple.

That's a really nice floor jack.

Does this same technique work with a 2004 XC70? I’m considering just going Fwd on mine. Pretty sure i have a bad driveshaft on mine with 190k, and not sure I want to invest the $$ when the axels, AOC, angle gear, and diff could be coming up behind it. If you have pics of your setup available, I’d l...

Eh, it's an '01. Show me that in '07 please.

70 series the trip computer (TC) is already built into the cluster, there is no module there. Either the cluster has it activated or not. You can just swap in an activated cluster in the case of the 70 series, I've done that a couple times. Just based on what people have done successfully over the y...

I also think it is most likely just burnt out bulbs. To add trip computer on a 96 the cluster is indeed already able to use it. You just need to to grab the computer/clock module to replace your clock-only, and the info switch from another 850 that has them, plug them in and it works. There may be a...

That head sounds like a good match, I agree with that. Good find.

I don't know what else to watch out for with a head that has been sitting, but probably nothing that new valve stem seals and the machine shop wouldn't clean up. I would probably pull the trigger on this one.

Good info Eddystone thanks!

No. The bearing around the water pump shaft is sealed, if coolant comes in contact with the bearing it will actually ruin it by stripping out the grease.

The coolant can help to cool the bearing I suppose, but not to lubricate it.

I don't know how to explain the screeching.

OK fully getting your point now on asking about what to avoid, makes sense to ask - short answer is you can not tell apart to non-turbo and turbo heads by just looking, unfortunately. So I'm not seeing much in the pics except the plug holes look oddly crusty. Did they give you mileage on this head? ...

I replaced one with thick walled silicone hose. Definitely squishier than the factory hose but has worked well for several years.

In the North American market, 1998 V70 did not come with an EGR valve. The last year of EGR on the P80 platform was 1995.

Sounds like a big vacuum leak, like maybe an intercooler hose.

Have you cleared the code to see if it comes back? I know you have invested a lot of troubleshooting in the old sending unit but at this point I would next swap in a used sending unit from the junkyard. It's cheap and basically guaranteed to be working, so you can go from there to determine if the o...

FR7DPP runs about $7 here, FR7DC about $3.

Agreed, Volvo plugs for P80 cars are all platinum. Copper works great but it is not what rolled out from the factory.

I buy Volvo plugs and run them to 50k or so, FWIW.

Fuel pressure sensor crapping out is common on the P2 (later) V70 and S60 cars, FWIW. It's on the list of "if it hasn't broken yet, it's going to soon" parts. Maybe it's a different design though than on the 99.

"The head you need" is from any 95-98 turbo 850 or V70 or S70 or C70. So apologies but I'm not following your first statement there. The turbo engines were 2.3 L and 2.5 L. These will all have the correct exhaust valves. The non-turbo is 2.4 L avoid it. Used heads for sale are usually listed by the ...

The shop is wrong, you have many, many options. Consider finding another shop. For a direct swap, any turbo head from 94-98 850 or S/V/C70. So that means either HPT (high pressure turbo, 2.3 L) or LPT (low pressure turbo, 2.5 L) engines, they all use the same head. The intake manifold ports are a di...

If the hose is intact, not brittle or mushy and not clogged with oily gunk, and seals well on the ends then I would just reuse it.

Couldn't remember all the details as I have not done this repair personally. However, this is a long thread but most of the info is at the front. 3/8" not 5/8" as per my faulty memory!! https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=53448&hilit=PCV+modification Neil. A serious flaw in...

Sawzall/grinder are my favorite second choice wrenches!

I am totally comfortable letting the hydraulic tensioners go a couple intervals i.e. 150k miles. If I don't know the history and the mileage is up there, I give it a new one and reset the counter.

For brand, Aisin (or Volvo) only on the hydraulic tensioner.

What code is it throwing, P0172 maybe?

Check the intake manifold for leaks near #5, common problem after PCV.

Oh I thought OP was just talking about this stuff
https://www.amazon.com/GS-Power-Split-L ... 922&sr=8-3

Yeah definitely can not go junkyard on wire looms, you won't even be able to collect them they will crumble in your hands. I have replaced some but I did it by getting several sizes then I have it on hand and use as needed. I'd be interested to know what it takes for a complete job, too.

Those three parts all come together at the turbo exhaust flange, a cast iron piece the size of a softball with three holes in it. A lot of people think of it as part of the turbo but it's not. One hole for connecting to the turbo, held together by a V-band clamp, no gasket. One hole connects to the ...

Ummm ok I think you get my point by now

You are on the right track to look at the position of the floor latch. I would loosen it up then figure out the best position then tighten it back up. Sometimes the latch needs to move in the opposite direction from what you might expect. Also check the little rubber bumpers located out at the sides...

You are on the right track to look at the position of the floor latch. I would loosen it up then figure out the best position then tighten it back up. Sometimes the latch needs to move in the opposite direction from what you might expect. Also check the little rubber bumpers located out at the sides...

You are on the right track to look at the position of the floor latch. I would loosen it up then figure out the best position then tighten it back up. Sometimes the latch needs to move in the opposite direction from what you might expect. Also check the little rubber bumpers located out at the sides...

You are on the right track to look at the position of the floor latch. I would loosen it up then figure out the best position then tighten it back up. My point being, sometimes it needs to move in the opposite direction from what you might expect. Also check the little rubber bumpers out at the side...

Yeah, timing work doesn't help at all for access to knock sensors. Timing is on what is technically called the front of the engine i.e. near the passenger wheel, knock sensors are under the intake manifold on what is called the right side.

Chcek the shaft diameter, the axle seal may be different.

Hydraulic tensioner can only be compressed in a vice or c clamp etc, hand tools won't do it.

Gold stars for getting that thing Dremeled off.

I have a KAE intermittent relay, not sure if it is the same part number, but it programs differently from the 99 relay. Put the wiper switch to delay position, then pull the stalk toward you briefly like for a fluid squirt, when the appropriate time has passed pull the stalk again to set the interval.

Rocket Man in his T5 ...

Yeah, just send them out for cleaning and refresh, they will be good as new.

abscate wrote: ↑Tue Oct 06, 2020 2:33 pm A really good friend of mine did this once and found out he had put the intercooler in upside down.

It can happen to good people.

Well, it happened to your friend anyway.

Oh and a very common place for these to leak exhaust is the joints for the cat, either the front or back joint. I think I have repaired all of mine now, Well, had them repaired - muffler shop. These joints that leak are weld joints - there is no gasket. It is the weld joints in front of and behind ...

Smoky exhaust is usually burning oil (which burns gray) due to worn out valve stem seals which is a bunch of head work to fix, or you can live with it the smoke and oil consumption. Smoke may also be unburnt fuel (which leads to black smoke, running rich) from poor running condition. If it smokes al...

Not sure what you mean. Could you explain a little more. Are we talking about (what I am calling the button up top or) the knob at top of shifter that you depress? Even though I have a brand new one in there it feel a little sticky when trying to depress it. Which makes me wonder if the actually me...

Make sure the shift lever is engaged all the way down or the button won't be able to move out of Park. I've had that happen a couple times the last two years when I loaned my beater 850 wagon to friends. Twice they told me its stuck in park, both time I just popped the lever back down and it works a...

Volvo started SAS started on the p80 cars in 1996.

TL/DR but you didn't get out the spacers and o-rings. There is no metal inside there, it is plastic and o-rings. Hopefully they last.

Oh and a very common place for these to leak exhaust is the joints for the cat, either the front or back joint. I think I have repaired all of mine now, Well, had them repaired - muffler shop.

So it is definitely exhaust? People have described mist from the vents when the heater core blows.

For the grounds you have it right it is any one of them. Just pick one, they are all the same ground.

People actually do use tire gauges but it is not a good long term solution. Any pressure gauge hooked up to fuel safe line will do the trick or pick one up from the parts/tool store.

I always feel like one instance of a CEL is not enough evidence to speculate or do repairs on. I'd see if it comes back after another ~300 miles.

The last ECU from VAST, did you flash onto it or just popped it in as you received it? Wondering if it could be a problem with your flashing rig somehow corrupting the file/ECU.

Have you considered adding a little dye to the oil and letting it idle at night with a UV light and watch where the oil is coming from? I've never done that - where do you even find each of those? Related question - Is there a thermostat in that oil cooler line? Are those lines not under pressure u...

Yes. Just say no to aftermarket regulators if you can. Rebuilding with new brushes seems one good way to go.

The aftermarket VR in my T5-R is still working, although that car does not get a lot of miles maybe 3k per year.

bmdubya1198 wrote: ↑Wed Sep 30, 2020 7:07 pm

kallekula wrote: ↑Wed Sep 30, 2020 11:38 am Hard to find anything usable on that one

Passenger mirror looks okay!

Still has good hood springs!

Remember Volvo recommend changing the water pump every second belt change. 10 years is max recommended on a belt irrespective of mileage. Neil. Just to add some garlic to the pot... Early P80 timing belt intervals 50-70k Water pump every second timing belt change so 140 k on the 1996-1998 Except th...

40k is nothing for timing parts. But 12 years is getting up there on the rubber timing belt. It so cheap to replace the belt only, I'd do it for peace of mind and confidently let the rest go until the next interval is up - probably never, in other words. And if the PCV was done right you don't need ...

No, the serial number is the lower one, six digits. Looks like you could probably read it if you just pulled the timing cover and looked straight down at it. You can also read the number off the block near the passenger firewall but it is a pain to see there.

I'm surprised actually, I would have guessed 13g for that model year. Good to know!

Yes assemble the hoses off the car. Sounds like you are on it. Keep in mind the challenges of this job are the install at the oil cooler thermostat, and securing one line near the AC compressor. Complete PITA of a job overall, leads some to instead swap to the newer oil pan with biscuit cooler and b...

... OK.... 1. Verify the leak is this hose. 2. Verify excessive crankcase pressure and PCV. I can dig through old records and see when I did this last. Then, what the heck, maybe it needs a TB while it's apart, and maybe bypass the failing A/C compressor with a non-A/C car accessory belt for now, a...

disclaimer I didn't read the long first post, sorry ... What abscate said - the cooler line near the alternator is oil cooler. If that line is wet above its metal-to-hose joint then you may be lucky, and the leak is just the sealing ring and/or o-ring where the line plugs into the radiator. Heck cou...

I don't remember what the default is in those files but that's right, you want everything set to zero in "Diagnostic disables" except for "diagnostics replacement value: intake air temperature" set that one to 20 or so.

Then values for whites and AC mod and you are good to go.

In TunerPro, 1 is on/enabled and 0 is off/disabled.

I fixed mine with a piece of cardboard 😀 Fold a piece of an amazon box double, stuff it in between the hood and headlight Tight , but not too tight Now the passenger side latch will pop up when you pull This is a great fix. Do it at the same time you are installing simple backup release cables acce...

Here's the best consolidation I know of for using the hex cap versus round cap to make the distinction: https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=75524 see especially pics on pages 2 and 3 And here's some good info from IPD about original equipment: https://www.ipdusa.com/products...

lol to this thread degenerating into the endless rehash of serp tensioner tools

Focus, man, focus!

1/2 to 3/4 adapters are cheap and easy to get, but I don't think 3/4 works does it?

After 98 it's 07, then a distant pack of other years in third place.

Someone recently posted a pic of an Outback car cover draped over a V70. It looked like a kid in their dad's pajamas.

4 or 5 bad spring tensioners does not sound right at all. So far I've replaced only the bearing part of the serp tensioners on some of my p80 cars, and non of them are noisy. So I doubt you have four bad ones but of course it is possible. Maybe we should torque wrench measure a bunch of them, noisy ...

Speaking of junkyard, I'd pick up a cluster from a V70XC or etc that has the trip computer activated, just find any 98 with an info switch. Yes the mileage won't match, but so what ...

Might be a good time to add backup hood release cables, one to each hinge and accessible from under the car. Cheap and easy to do, and saves a monster headache if the cable(s) do break.

Hey hey! Yes, it is not free, but it's not outrageous. So I'm working them on the price. But thanks fellas! We are close. Ok, now one last question (haha) The shifter, drive is forward, low and low 1 and low 2 blah blah ...that's all moving the car forward. Neutral moves the car in reverse. But jus...

Yeah, this one car I saw was bad so, really they all are. Always.

No info switch means the cluster does not have the trip computer activated. Alas.

What are people’s thoughts on this... https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/cto/d/san-rafael-2000-volvo-v70-all-wheel/7198889656.html 14F4A275-07F5-4686-B1BF-F8D7B25CBAC3.jpeg It looks great. Good service history, low miles, highly favorable climate for a Volvo. Will need some maintenance as it ages but...

A large plastic garbage bag is great yes. Put the bag on the footwell then position the opening under the heater core with the edges up. You could even put the bag in the basin if it's short enough, would be easier to remove it after you collect all the coolant.

Yes, one solution is to bore out the turbo manifold.

But who wants VVIS??? No P80 manifolds are still available from Volvo are they?

Get a 95+ intake manifold, straightforward.

AWD was an option in 98 with LPT, but the car would be badged AWD and not GLT.

Easiest thing to do with the wipers is
1 - remove the wiper blades
2 - plug the washer fluid lines with something like a drywall screw, and tuck the lines away in the bumper
3 - unplug the power to the motors

TRACS is a super common failure, it is almost guaranteed to be the ABS module but occasionally it is something else. You can run it as is without anti-lock brakes, or you can get the module fixed https://www.midwest-abs.com/1998_S70.php. Perhaps ancient brake fluid. I just get rid of these headlight...

The transmissions are very hardy, it probably just needs a fluid change as mentioned. I agree with others that a 98 FWD is the best year/model combination. And the LPT is fun to drive.

You can save a good money (get down to to half the price anyway) on the PCV job by (1) clean out and reuse the oil trap box, it is just a near-hollow plastic box and (2) for the large hose, fashion one yourself see posts by user tryingbe here on the MVS forum. Only the funny shaped hose from the oil...

What a steal for $300! The hesitation near idle sounds like vacuum leak, I would first inspect and/or replace all of the 20 year old rubber vacuum lines and make sure there are no uncapped nipples etc, then see if the hesitation is still there. Does not sound like a MAF issue, FWIW. Dozens of people...

How did you know it's my birthday??!! Oh, well, more than 19 though ...

Go MVS! Thanks to Matt and all for making it work!

Wel if you change your mind, I'm the first in line.

Agreed with ecbs: if you pull the drain plug it will drop almost exactly 3.5 US quarts.

I know this is a distraction so apologies to OP but for the record: Actually you can't replace the cable from the positive battery terminal to the start by getting a junkyard item. That cable is integrated into the engine harness. Similarly there is no factory replacement. If you buy Volvo 9456836 f...

yes both styles are compatible, black plastic cap or aluminum cap. NA and turbo are all the same CPS, 95-98.

The blue smoke may just be valve stem seals not piston rings. Still a lot of work but do-able. Please don't replace the left axle, just re-boot it. The replacements are grossly inferior.

Someone buy this car!

Replacing and re-lubing the collar sleeve is a PITA but TBH not as bad as I thought it was going to be. On the automatics the sleeve will often fall right out of the trans once you have the bevel gear removed, indeed that's how it went for me. But I'm very interested to see how this welding job goes...

People have reported keeping it jumpered for days at a time, I would use a wire for that not just a paperclip etc. And I would remove the jumper when shutting the car down for peace of mind and to keep me paying attention to it.

... Is it possible for sensors to struggle under high temp scenarios? Yesterday's ambient temperatures were 27'c when the hot-start failure occured. Temperatures since have been approx 10'c lower. I'm still not entirely trusting of either that fuel pump relay or the CPM. Yes, failure of electronic ...

I am crazy on this price? more then a few calls but one of them said its not worth over 1500 and I was CRAZY. He was really mad. You tell me. https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/d/seattle-2000-volvo-v70r-silver/7191840850.html Thanks in advance. Guess why he's mad? Because in that market you sho...

Those X-ice Xi3 are great winter tires, I really like them. Nice find thanks for posting.

You can use those inexpensive little bulbs for the dash switches in the shifter location, they work fine.

The R coils are not $10 and/or usually improperly labeled on eBay and hard to find in junkyards. I know I could get a spare as a backup but I'm not really stressed about one failing, just contemplating if/when to replace them. They are sitting at 40k now. So to be specific: for proactive replacement...

It depends on your tolerance to failure. I have six cars with coil in plug ignition , two if them get the proactive 120k coil replacement. Four of them get coils replaced on failure. I keep a cheap code reader in these cars. I did have a coil fail at 100k on one of these and had to do a roadside re...

FYI the torque app cannot tell the actual boost psi. It is just guessing based on other engine management values, and it is reported to be not a very accurate guesser. It doesn’t guess, it asks Psiri 4:57 am - abscate realizes the PSIri pun and its awful cleverness 5:12 am - abscate's digging throu...

good lookin' rotor!!

Moderators may want to move this to the XC90 forum?

- Pete - wrote: ↑Tue Sep 01, 2020 3:50 pm https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/it ... 5391614504

Amazing work of art!

What!!!???

Posted 16 weeks ago and still available???!!!!

And a third (at least) issue:

3) The large body of the thermostat itself is soft and can bend very easily at the other interface, where it sits flush with the oil pan.

Nautic blue is a nice color I had it in a wagon, but certainly not rare. It's never been considered rare, are people suggesting that now?

You can use a pencil with eraser hooked onto a drill e.g. Others have forced the gears to the right place but I don't recommend that.

Two not so relevant points to add to this coolant silliness: 1. Volvo owners spends LOTS of time with the hood up admiring their coolant. 2. Personally I like gold colored coolant - Xerox G-05 volvolugnut Actually I use Zerex G-05 in all my P80 Volvos. Which is most of the fleet. Love the gold! The...

I once bent the thermostat housing flange and it leaked until I pulled it off and straightened it. Hasn't leaked since. It's just soft aluminum and as easy to straighten. I seem to have bent it by over tightening it.

I've bought some Volvo coolant about 10 months ago, both gallons are the disappointing green.

But actually, Toyota coolant is Red! Don't ask me how I know ... It's looks orange in my mother's 99 Celica GT convertible. June Whoever serviced her Celica did not use Toyota coolant. Maybe they put in Dex-Cool. Toyota coolant is dark red, redder than red, no mistaking it. Been buying it from the ...

But actually, Toyota coolant is Red!
Don't ask me how I know ...

A bad rotor is also possible.

* 11 years and only 31K miles. Is this bad for the vehicle? https://seattle.craigslist.org/kit/cto/d/kingston-2009-volvo-s60-only-30k-miles/7182547676.html Wow, that's clean! I would go over everything very carefully and do the timing belt really soon if it hasn't been done, but that would make a g...

I think you just checked the cams so this is probably irrelevant but: Is the little metal mounting disc under the CPS (and the distributor one for that matter) in the correct orientation? It's possible to mount them wrong and still reassemble, then they are 180 out of phase.

Grab the free head, rebuild it (personally I'd get it rebuilt but yes that costs money), swap them out. As much as I prefer engine swaps the head swap is probably the only way out of the bad valves stem seals situation. Unless you do them in-car on your present engine of course. The bottom end shoul...

Get the synthetic grease and go to town - it's a hassle to get it in there but the noise will go away and make you a happy driver!

Did you measure them, are they actually 0.036? I'd adjust the gap to 0.028 or buy another plug that comes gapped to that.

I sent you a private message about the shocks.

Yikes, definitely don't ignore/neglect a working angle gear, but also don't crack one open if it's not leaking. What Pete said.

The date-fix patch comes from Swedespeed, those guys figured it (VIDA installation) out well, you can also find installation instructions there but it is not simple.

I used Prestone's 11S equivalent and it works fine, for the record.

My S60R had moaning steering column that was fixed by greasing the small bearing, definitely check that.

I would just replace the blower yes, it's 15 years old, not the resistor. Oil the shaft if you don't mind going back in later this winter on the chance it fails then.

Good time to swap the cabin filer? Lysol the AC box?

Conti 1743 for my P80 cars.

Dayco makes quality belts but it's maybe not worth the confusion on sizing, I use what everyone else is using ...

Finished up installing the used, low-mile angle gear and new collar in the S60R . Rear driveshaft is left uninstalled for now, until I can find time to service the rear haldex. Then I'll finish putting it together. While it was out of commission, in addition the angle gear-related seals and AG fluid...

A google search like that will return information about the rare broken t-belts that got posted about, but otherwise very little about the actual landscape of timing belt longevity.

It's really tough to reach them but you can.

This code is almost never an actual knock sensor problem - usually the wiring is damaged or connections are dirty.

lol

So you figured out your car needs a hydraulic tensioner not the mechanical one?

I'd get this, $200 https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... kit252-oem.

I've done both a couple times and will just submit that an engine swap is much easier than an R and R of the head, in terms of special tools and paying attention to fine details. Time involved is the same. Engine requires more attention to safety but otherwise you take it out, you put the other one ...

Gates timing belts have been documented on this forum more than once to be bad out of the box and wander back and forth on the pulleys. In general I consider Gates drive belts and thermostats and especially their automotive hoses to be high quality, but would not touch Gates for timing parts on an i...

Coming from an S40, you sure that water pump fits your 98 NA? I'd probably use it if it does, or buy a Hepu if it doesn't. Front cam seals i still never touch unless they are leaking, regardless of mileage. If you do, they must be Corteco (or Volvo). Tensioner (is yours hydraulic or mechanical? 98 i...

C70 - nah.
C70 vert - nah squared.
And it's a 99 ...

Always a hassle getting it snug I agree.
I tighten it by turning the rubber hose on mine. Oh, also good to put an o-ring at the top of the threads to help seal it, mine has that.

Actually what you want to know is who has tried it and with success or failure. More so than what might work, what the parts books say, etc. That is the greatest strength of the forum, getting the practical (empirical) information. I haven't tried it and don't know who has! But we have the search fu...

Super useful to test all cylinders at the same times, compare the readings.

I've swapped them in and out without disconnecting anything. But you'll never go wrong disconnecting the negative cable, wouldn't hurt.

120 sounds low but not burned valve low. Might want to check a couple more make sure they all read close to 120 on that gauge. Good idea on the injector. You can swap injectors around and see if the misfire follows the injector, but I would be careful not to tear any of the rubber seals. Some people...

Valves only burn in the blink of an eye. One moment the cylinder holds compression, the next it doesn't. I think I would check compression first, then check if spark is getting through to the plug while I have it out (wire could be bad). Or you could swap wires if there is enough length, I haven't t...

I'm curious, what car is this?

Please keep us posted.

... Have a line on 98 S70 T5 with the same mileage as my V70. Don't think the wife will approve of two 22-year old volvos in front of the house. Part of me loves the simplicity of my V70 but another part thinks the T5 would be more fun than a fella has a right to have. This is tough, having to choo...

Ah ok - good points! I had a look too, that is annoying IPD doesn't give you some useful info, guess they are trying to protect their markup. To be fair I am also comparing new-ish overload springs to old factory ones when I say improved handling. I've not swapped the springs around much. But I do l...

Can you elaborate on the iPD HD springs for those of us outside the US? Assuming HD is heavy duty, one would assume they're rated for higher weights, and hence would have higher spring rates? You say they improve handling without affecting ride. The former is believable mechanically due to the high...

I will second that about the IPD HD rear springs, I put those on my V70. They are great, improve the handling without changing the ride height. On the 95 R the best modification for me is the m4.4 tuned ECU. It's the little things - like it starts up so much more quickly. That and stage zero, which ...

My 2004 V70 2.5T now has 116K miles. Oil is synthetic 10W30, filter is Mahle. The engine ticking noise ("diesel" noise) continues. Sometimes, it gives the impression of lower end knocking. I hear this noise mainly from the outside. Inside the cabin, engine "diesel" noise is minimal. Car otherwise r...

Nothing Special Edition about it, wonder what is up recently with sellers posting these things. But a nice looking NA. Maybe a $3500 car in that market?

(oops - referring to the 98 NA in Boston area, smacknab's post)

You have a 98 with a Denso CPS?

Are you sure it's not a 99?

850oldschool wrote: ↑Sun Aug 09, 2020 2:13 pm Is it safe to say that if the TB is gummy there may be a sludge problem elsewhere?

A gummy TB gives no reason to suspect a sludge problem. Clean it up. Be sure not to get solvent into the TPS.

Oh yes you can. That's a nice deal for someone who wants to tinker.

For sure non-turbo 98 V70 and 95-96-97 non-turbo 850 all used the same injectors in US spec cars. There are no doubt other cars use these Bosch yellow injectors but that's an easy list to work with. I've got a spare set of yellows from a 98. 93-94 cars have a handful of oddities, I'm really not sure...

Definitely inspect the PS hoses and PS rack. Much, much easier to do now if needed.

Fuel injectors are like 6 bucks each at the junkyard.

Also keep in mind - the misfire codes are notorious for not reporting the right cylinder or even the same cylinder all the time, so you will want to keep an eye on that.

Are the wires Bougicord?

Keep working on it but for the record yes it is pretty easy to cook the diode when installing, if you are soldering.

A 95 860 non-turbo has the yellow injectors.

Best bet is to send off a set of factory yellows for rebuild and test, as abscate mentioned. Will run you $75 - $100 or so. I like these guys but it's been a while https://www.cruzinperformance.com/.

I drain then refill with distilled water, run it for 5 minutes or to the store, then drain and refill again with distilled water, do this three or four times until the system is nearly completely distilled water. Do a final drain, add half capacity using undiluted Zerex G-05, top up with distilled w...

The only reason I thought it may be a turbo is because they call it (probably wrongly) a Sport. The Sportwagen 850 was a turbo. Neil. In the US, the Sportswagon 850 was whatever car the dealer decided to glue the badge onto that day. My first 96 NA 850 wagon came with one of those silly badges. It ...

scot850 wrote: ↑Fri Aug 07, 2020 11:57 pm Does seem a high price for the mileage. Bonus is it is a stick shift and a turbo. Maybe bad pictures, but rear shot makes the rear part look a different color to the rear door forward.

Neil.

You think it's a turbo?

Sport Edition lol. That means ... one day the dealer decided to call that car a Sport Edition because maybe it would sell better. Or the CL person who wrote that ad made it up. Like the 850 Sportswagon edition that was so popular in the NE area of the US. Here's a list of the extra goodies you get w...

To swap the hood you have to swap the whole nose.

It’s rare that the L shaped torx key won’t get them out. Glad you got it done

misha is right again, the 850 and 70 series P80 grills actually do not interchange.

I got caught up in the waterfall/eggcrate matter which both fit SCV70 because the 98 x70 had a waterfall style grill similar in appearance to the 850's.

I'm not getting it. Seems like just standard loosening needed of the T45, which should be trivial now that the engine is out. Regardless of the state of pulley. Get a T45 socket and take it off. Or no?

Grills are interchangeable. Doors will mount but basically do not swap unless you want to do a lot of work to make the electronics work. I.e windows, door locks. Tailgates swap! I don't think trunk lids do, however. Blower motor maybe, they are definitely different but I can't remember if they swap ...

So you can't get the T45 to budge? Is this engine in the car?

Hydraulic, from FCP: Up To Engine Serial Number -1266127 (See Sticker on Timing Cover) https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-engine-timing-belt-tensioner-850-s70-v70-c70-9146693 Mechanical, from FCP: For vehicles with mechanical tensioner and direct ignition, engine range from 1266128 up to 3192745...

If I recall I used P2 nozzles (I may be wrong) as the mechanics at the dealer when worked there for a few months said they were much better than P80 versions. Neil. For the record: the 99-00 P80 squirters, and the part number jreed posted, *are* P2 squirters. They are definitely better than the P80...

Nice work!

Leave the solenoid and the relay and leave them plugged in, the ECU still looks for those. But you don't need any vacuum lines to the solenoid. Unplug the hot to the air pump. If you want to strip things out and free up engine bay space then remove the air pump and the SAS valve and all associated p...

These bolts (firewall side of the head) have to be the absolute worst part of installing the head.

Get any needed sodium-filled valve-or-two from a junkyard head, spend the money on good seals instead.

matthew1 wrote: ↑Thu Jul 30, 2020 7:48 pm Screen Shot 2020-07-30 at 7.44.01 PM.jpg

It's a Plat.

Not too far away, if only I had a trailer and a whole bunch of extra time ...

"... someone jacked the head from me" right!

The forums show plenty of reports of bad cables, but basically nothing regarding a latch going bad and leaving someone with a hood stuck closed. The latches themselves last well.

viewtopic.php?t=71962

Many of the aftermarket valve stem seals have a terrible reputation - puffs of blue smoke within 10k miles. But I hear you, quality durable parts do not come cheap it is a balancing act.

I'd definitely replace the valve stem seals, and only with the Volvo branded ones. Can't imagine pulling a head and not cleaning it up before putting it back on. The install is just too much work to do it right, to be putting back on a substandard head. I have always paid the machine shop to install...

Yea, whites and blues flow exactly the same in the same car, e.g. 350 cc in a 98 C/V/S70 car. Blues came installed on cars with higher pressure FPR (99 and 00 T5), where they accordingly flow higher (395 cc). OK, what Chuck said.

On my P2 car, I removed the drive shaft with the rear wheels on ramps. I was able to spin the drive shaft as needed to access the H6 bolts. The rear haldex is normally not engaged. Not sure about P80 cars. For P2 or P80 the front wheels need to be free if the angle gear to collar junction is still i...

Sounds like it's time to pull the headliner and install new material before you put that new trim in place.(Unless it's only loose around the sunroof) I used THIS STUFF when we redid the headliner in the wife's 855. Spray dyed it to the color we needed. Quoting Chuck's post from 6 weeks ago, so he ...

OK I see, good job on the block ports. Using an oil-rated (hydraulic) hose not heater hose, using coils, using a 90 degree brass fitting: https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=81582 https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=86681 A quart of oil every 3k sounds exces...

My PTC valve had a small hole in metal surrounded by a "D" shape. The "D" shape popped out with a screwdriver so I didnt have to do any drilling. My engine still smokes with this mod. I'm going to try the larger heater hose next. Anyone know if using the heater hose causes it to kink when making 90...

Well I cleaned the PTC and I'm still getting a high five on the glove test. :? So what would be the recommend next step ? Compression test ? Kind of hard to believe that the proverbial little old lady car with only 130k would have bad rings but I guess anything is possible. Check the port into the ...

RickHaleParker wrote: ↑Tue Jul 21, 2020 9:57 pm Sounds to me like the hose does not fit well. What brand of PCV kit.

This. What brand is the hose? I go Volvo only on this one.

Sounds like you have the right hose, there are indeed two different versions. The "wrong" alternate wouldn't even line up.

My thoughts exactly - a worthy old car, at least decently maintained, could be fun with investments.

Here are some starter threads, be sure to not use the US 99 pinouts as they are different from US 98 (US 98 same as your 97):

viewtopic.php?t=89551
viewtopic.php?t=63948

Yeah, I'm all for (effective) ghetto fixes for the most part but not even I could stomach a piece of tape on the cluster.

Since your car have mechanical tensioner then yes, likely it was changed. If hydraulic I wouldn't assume.

Water pump is usually good to at least 200k, better to leave the old factory one in there than put in a crappy aftermarket one.

manovlov wrote: ↑Thu Jul 23, 2020 11:57 am

scot850 wrote: ↑Mon Jul 20, 2020 1:55 pm

There is a recent thread by a MVS member who claims you can replace the sway-bar without dropping the sub-frame.

Neil.

Any way to find this post Neil ?

Manov

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=94594

On the valve stem seals, Volvo brand only, https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=71962. 99% chance that explains the oil consumption but it would have been useful to know compression numbers before you pulled the head. Replace the one bad valve. Clean up the rest of the valves, no...

but if you are meaning to put this motor in an 850 (?) then you can upgrade the turbo to 18 or 19, need to match the flange design, straight versus angled. Look at using an ECU tuned for your application. Bigger turbo and injectors, just a flash to the ECU. You can use one from a similar year HPT 8...

Dremel it partway then use a nut splitter if you can find one big enough, cheap tool works great I have used it on suspension bolts:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/CRAFTSMAN-Auto ... 1000595029?

You need to find out what the codes are when the CEL is on, that tells us were to start. Your 94 has OBD1 so you can get the code(s), e.g. see https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/read-codes-volvo-850/

Yes, 94-00 are interchangeable.

Be sure to get the plastic latch guide for the back of the 2nd row seat.

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=49056

... replace with the new improved Knock sensor without the connectors at the sensor. I now find out that I have to splice it into the wiring harness. IPD has no instructions, and all I can find is that some people have connected it with a kit from Volvo. Does anyone know where I can find instructio...

For a 98, to program remotes you must go to the dealer or a shop that has the dealer software.

The best way to reset the service light is to remove the bulb. Foolproof, permanent and trouble-free.

Nice platinum!

My solution is that I stashed a low-miles front sway bar from MIJ's T5 (21.5 mm) under the workbench several years ago. When the bushings go on one of my P80 cars I'll have to decide which car to keep. Or which one gets a fully working front sway.

Yep, for a 98 it must go to the dealer or to a shop that has purchased dealer software.

Picking up a P80 AWD in 2020 - that's definitely a blooper!

Ah yes, rely on fuel trims to take care of the mismatch. Great way to run occasionally rich, occasionally lean.

Never change injector flow rate unless you also install a tune that matches the new flow rate. Never.

Yes!

The whole, assembled strut tower will swap right over, no problem on fitment.

However the ride could be slightly different, especially if you are mixing and matching between an 850 wagon and an S70 (sedan), but fitment is the same.

Chisel method reigns supreme. Glad you got it out!

This is sounding like a stuck one, hmmmm not good! In line with abscate's comment that is takes some shock to pop it out, I think you have a good idea, I would indeed tap it back in and try again with the tapered wedge from the start. Maybe rotate it a bit before you try again. Can you tap it back i...

Have you tried "the chisel method" on this? Basically use a 5/8 chisel, tap it straight up into the space between the CV and trans, use like a 5 pound hammer. If that doesn't do it, once the chisel is "in" then put a socket on the chisel and rotate it to pop it out. This is a super easy and very eff...

Yazaki

Short answer is I don't know about the part numbers and year.

But I don't think the year matters, it will work since you are doing VDO > VDO. I'd try it out without swapping over the odo, if it works then take the time for that too.

Shaft is out, was easy with the right tool finally. Remove the DEM first (bot not the modules), then use pinpoint longish air hammer bit on a socket head cap screw inserted into one of the unthreaded holes, broke loose in about 40 seconds being careful to not hit the DEM mounting area. It did get a ...

Fore the record that guy Keaton85 was super knowledgable about Volvos when he was in the game - he was a great resource on the forums.

Did you unhook the ABS module during the job? The connector is really finicky, make sure it is seated properly.

Or maybe the module has finally gone out. Matty Moo is still the way to go there https://www.midwest-abs.com/. There is some troubleshooting info on that page too.

... oh ok. what's better about the RN oil cooler? Everything! But seriously, the N oil cooler setup and hoses is a complete PITA and I would seriously consider going to the biscuit cooler if you are doing engine work. You can also just swap in the RN oil pan and coolant pipes, just to get the coole...

Are you sure the diode is still ok? Should be I know but ...

I guess the relay could be further deteriorated and somehow tripping a code, that may be more likely.

260k, that's no slouch of a '95! If you send me a m4.4 turbo ECU I'll flash it up for m4.4 with no rear O2 and send it back. They are cheap at junkyards. You can try out m4.4 too, it has subtle improvements. Still not free I know but still one easy way to get the light turned off. And my flashing ju...

Everything is apart. Prop shaft only disconnected at the front so far, that thing was the tricky part. Diagnosis is stripped angle gear input shaft, the collar finally worked loose after several years of FWD-only and started rattling on the surface of the AG input shaft. I can replicate the bad soun...

You have it right, the rear O2 does not control any engine parameters.

One way to deal with this would be to delete the rear O2 in TunerPro on a tuned ECU, FWIW.

You can "rent" a combustion gas tester for free from most auto parts stores. You just have to buy the test fluid. Detects the presence of combustion gases in the coolant. With these test kits a yes answer is unambiguous, and if there are combustion gases in the coolant then absolutely the head gaske...

And 98-00 doors will fit on an 850 but you don't get full electronics functionality without also swapping over the x70 dash harness into the 850, or doing some careful re-wiring.

You may be able to pop it out by drilling into it, then using some kind of slide hammer approach. But not trivial.

And apologies, I completely missed that you put the part number in the title. FYI - viewtopic.php?t=88367

That's not easily removable, unless you somehow press it out presumably by removing the cam cover. Where are you seeing a replacement part?

If you go to the trouble to install another dash, expect to have to beef up the mounts first before you install. They are basically all failing at this point.

00 V70 R, several go-fast parts and a tune, probably most big things already fixed, seems well done, MA, $8k (!) OBO

I like this car except for the window sticker and steroids-grade audio mods.

If it is truly leaking from there, you have correctly surmised that the reason would be the cam cover seal is breached somewhere around the circumference of the hole. It's unusual for that spot to leak, more commonly the oil comes from somewhere else (e.g. oil cap, hose to the top from PCV) and look...

Based on experience, I trust Dayco for hoses and belts.

That's right, it only dries when the air is excluded. It is more of a pain to clean off than gasket material, too.

The 850 doors will bolt right on the x70 and vice-versa. The wiring however is different between the two cars. If you carefully study the wiring schematics for both cars you could figure out which wires to change and how. Otherwise things like door locks and windows won't work properly. E.g. the mas...

To follow up on the multiple suggestions to check the voltage between the battery and starter, looking back to page 1 of thread ... ... I brought the car to my local volvo shop and the issue occurred while there so that would be a good thing! They noticed that there was a loss of amps from the batte...

Remove the valve cover yes, although it's actually called a cam cover. But you have to be careful and remove it straight up because the engine has two overhead cams. If you "pop it off" then you will likely crack one of two of the cam slots machined into the aluminum head. Remove the head no. Just b...

Yes spark plug tube seals are installed on that engine. They are only installed if the valve cover is removed, that's the only way to get to them. They sit flat on the head, then you put the cover on with the thin layer of anaerobic sealant and tighten it down. Unless you have the cover off already,...

So I guess I was wrong with the car not starting only when the engine is hot. I had the car sitting for about 40 minutes and then went to start it up and nothing cranked. After about a minute it started up again. Does this make anything more clear as to a diagnosis? Thank you. That's a good pickup....

i'll buy anything . People swear by certain brands , those brands could be making their stuff on the same assembly line as Uro and just marking it up 3 times as much. For things like timing parts, seals etc., they aren't. It is definitely the case that parts get re-boxed and re-branded, but a big a...

It's not that bad but the only available cable is mediocre quality. Will definitely work out of the box but may not last and the cable gauge is a little light, thinner than the factory wiring harness cable. Some people have made their own. Their are several posts here about making one if you search....

The cable from the battery to the starter is not the B+ cable, it's the starter cable. Agreed, basically every 850 the starter cable has gone bad by now or is going.

As posted above the B+ cable runs from battery to fuse box. The B+ is plagued on 99+ P80 cars but basically trouble free on 850s.

Keep in mind, most shops will *not* buy quality parts. They make a lot more money by marking up cheap parts.

For the record, B+ cable problems are basically nonexistent on 850s. Test it with a voltmeter.

I agree must be electrical.

Fuel pump relay - no. This gives a no-start, but the car would crank just fine.

Fuse, no. They are either working (intact) or not.

timing belt job - some difficulty to access everything, must have the right tools, requires careful attention to detail, must buy quality parts, difficulty level 6 fuel pump job - very easy access, basic tools, a little messy due to working with fuel, can get by with lower quality parts, difficulty ...

... The P2's are good cars, but I find the seats are poor compared to P80 seats. ... Agreed. And the P2 wagon has noticeably less interior space than the P80 wagon, especially in the front cabin. So disappointing ... Shouldn't the 03 S80 have the same chassis as the XC70? The S80 seems to have a lo...

scot850 wrote: ↑Sun Jul 05, 2020 11:07 pm ...
The P2's are good cars, but I find the seats are poor compared to P80 seats.
...

Agreed. And the P2 wagon has noticeably less interior space than the P80 wagon, especially in the front cabin. So disappointing ...

Just to make sure we are on the same page, for the battery terminal the thing to check is the positive terminal not the connection to the battery per se. Check for corrosion where the cable goes into the lug. Preferably start the car, run in for 5 minutes, see if the lug starts to heat up. It should...

subzerocarfanatic wrote: ↑Sat Jul 04, 2020 12:33 pm Are these not the exact same thing ashttps://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-spark-plug-bosch-fr7dpp the OEM Volvo plugs minus the Volvo badge,the part numbers look the same.

yes, I posted that back on the first page of this thread.

To see the cam slots you have to remove the distributor cap, rotor and rotor mounting plate for the intake cam, and remove the cam position sensor and its mounting plate for the exhaust cam. The slots are unambiguous reporters of true cam position, they can not get out of whack the way the sprockets...

... Is it possible to turn the crack another 360 degrees and have the cams be in a totally different position, where they might then line up properly? I assumed that every time the crack in on mark, the cams always should be as well. Is this incorrect? ... 360 yes, 720 no: remember that one full re...

Junkyard item. Grab extra clips they break.

Keep a cut set for when the crossbars are on, an intact set for other times. Or cut small pieces to move in and out etc.

A good way to think about engine timing is to always use the crank mark as the reference. When the crank is on the mark, are the cams on or off their marks? If the cams are off, it will be either be due to (1) mistiming or (2) the belt has stretched. For case (1) it has to be some whole number of te...

Be careful with part numbers on that FPS. There is a chassis break in the XC90 line I remember working shockwave, so order by VIN. OK be careful in general but, OP has the same car as mine that's the right part number. For junkyard harvesting there are about a dozen cars that use it, see the FCP pa...

That's a great price for the coils and if the numbers match, they will work. Specs say same part number for those cars too https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-ignition-coil-c70-s60-s70-s80-v70-xc70-xc90-30713416#fitment Plugs I the Volvo ones are gapped properly out of the box (0.030, or can go t...

What? Hope you are wearing ear protection?

Ugh. For the record: 02 AWD and 98 FWD are different transmissions. Comparing those two at some particular mileage is irrelevant. Moreover the 98 FWD transmission is very durable and it is rare for one to go out with so few miles.