I'm also having trouble bleeding. I followed the sequence in Bentley (LR, LF top, RF top, RR, RF lower two, LF lower two), but can't seem to get air out of the system (pedal travels to floor). Although previous posters say it's not necessary to do both front chambers at the same time, does it hurt a...

Actually had a buddy check engine temp with an infra red thermometer & all is fine, so I'm not going to worry about it right now. I might try swapping out the instrument cluster at some point since clock and odometer are also out.

It actually ended up being the fuses. I had put new ones in, but didn't clean the contacts in the box. After carefully toothbrushing those w/a baking soda paste, I replaced all fuses and voila! I have light! Thanks.

That makes sense- I looked up tailgate wiring as suggested & symptoms described sound similar. The third brake light is also out & rear wiper is getting power but not working well. But why are the top two lights (reverse & brake) in both taillight units out? I'm trying to understand how ...

1988 240 wagon. Have to keep reminding myself this is a $400 (fun) project...was idling engine for about 45 minutes in the driveway when I happened to notice that the temp gauge was just below the red. Engine is running fine, no smoke or anything. Coolant is circulating (hot radiator & upper rad...

I'm getting a crash course in basic circuits, but still can't figure out what's going on. Here's what I've eliminated: Fuses good Brake switch is good (tested for 12v) Bulb failure sensor is good (tested blue/red in, yellow/white & yellow out for 12v) All plugs and bulbs are good (tested for con...

Thanks for the reply. Checked fuses and doesn't look like anything's out. Both turn signals work and running lights are good, but I'm pretty sure those are on a separate circuit.

I have an 88 240 wagon. Recently replaced passenger side rear light unit & bulbs with cheap (won't do that again) aftermarket unit. Since then, both upper brake lights and reverse lights are out & there is no power into the driver's side upper two bulbs. From what I've been reading, it sound...

Playing with the ignition switch did it. If I start the engine, then back the key off a little past 2nd position, everything works fine. Could the ignition switch also explain why startup is a little rough even with new starter, fully charged battery & good wiring? That would be good news as it ...

I went out this morning, started the engine up and now everything's working fine (by the way forgot to mention in my original post that I did check fuses and all looked good), didn't have to wiggle key or anything. The only major differences I can think of are that the car had been sitting over nigh...