I'm selling my black 1997 Volvo 850 4-door sedan. This is a well running, safe, front-wheel drive car that gets 17-25mpg and has been a reliable commuter car for me for a number of years. I just purchased a different vehicle and don't have the time or money to put into repairs to get this inspected ...

I found this other thread which has some tips on the wiring. I assume any wiring module (Uhaul, Curt, etc.) would probably be fine as long as I splice instead of using the clamp-on connections, correct?

The Draw-Tite 36262 looks identical to the Curt, so that's reassuring ( Edit: and the Draw-Tite is the model Uhaul sells for the 850 ). I had seen other photos that looked closer to the OE (now that I've looked it up with the part #s). How do you suggest doing the wiring as I want to avoid the crimp...

Thanks for the suggestions and the lead on the OE part #s.

The last time I had priced out Uhaul, they were significantly more expensive, but it looks like--excluding installation--it's on par for the Curt hitch. I'll see what the installation cost is and how they do their wiring.

I'm looking to do some lightweight towing (hauling parts to/from my storage container in a lightweight trailer for a vehicle restoration) with my '97 850 sedan (NA base model). It's at about 220k miles, but still running well and I'll change the transmission fluid again, but I'm looking for an appro...

Well, I finally got to test this this evening. I had already swapped out my clock for the trip computer months ago, but was having issues getting my computer to communicate with my OBDLink S (turns out I had the baud rate incorrect, due to finding some incorrect documentation). My odometer had died ...

After a couple more days of back & forth With the parts store attempting to charge & test the battery (was able to get it to a 1/2 charge by running the car for an hour, then charging on 10A charger for 3hrs, though it only seemed to be taking 2A; after putting it on a 2A trickle charge over...

Well, I have replaced the positive & negative cables due to the significant corrosion that appears to extend up into the cable (no idea how far). Man, that was a ridiculously time-consuming project (I don't have large hands and I still found it difficult to work in the small amount of space to s...

Looks like FCP does have non-genuine positive battery cables. That's probably the easier route to replace both positive & negative since they're both corroded, if it comes to that.

Any chance it's something like the voltage regulator?

Hmm, I guess that would fit with the corrosion on the cables that I noted. Any good way to test that (other than the "hot" cable temperature that was mentioned in your thread? I already ordered a rebuilt alternator, but I guess I can return it if it turns out to be wiring. Neither iPD or e...