Volvo forum + help for owners

With 20K on my 98 GLT engine post rebuild, all is well. Like erik11, if I had it to do over again, I would source used exhaust valves, but the machine shop work was worth every penny.

I have an annoying squeak in the rear of my wagon as well - but I've traced it to the rear seatback. The squeak goes away when the seats are folded down. Perhaps your load cover is pushing against the seatback making it squeak when it the load cover is installed? Try folding the seats down and insta...

Bumping this because I have the same issue on the 98 V70 that noev70T5 has. The compressor runs continuously. The refrigerant charge is good and the electronic climate control does what it needs to to maintain the cabin temperature. I'm convinced I can make ice in the cabin. Probably related - on su...

Erik has it exactly right. Apply anti-sieze on clean axle splines. No products of any type anywhere else - except red thread locker is recommended on the bolts that hold the caliper brackets to the knuckle. I also use a VERY light coating of grease between the bearing and the rotor and the rotor and...

My experience with bad hubs was a roaring noise that increased with speed and changed tone when the steering wheel was turned (shifting the weight of the car from side to side). Start with the axle. While it is out check for play in the CV joints. If you can feel play or the boots look dried out, it...

^^^ same. Swapping the assembly was time consuming, but not overly difficult.

I don't pretend to understand the psychology of women, but here's your plan: - give wife the "puppy dog eyes" look as you tell her that you appreciate her buying the car with an eye for your son's safety, but you're concerned that getting everything fixed on it will take time and that will take away...

You only need to replace damaged or burnt valves, but absolutely replace the valve stem seals 100% with Volvo only parts. My machine shop bill ran around $400 for a complete check, surface skim and valve job which included replacement of three exhaust valves and all of the valve stem seals. Happy to...

I think: 1) Its a limited market. The person interested in this car will know what they are looking for. Twenty year old cars of any make would scare 95% of most of the general population off. The only way to sell these cars for decent money are to fellow enthusiasts, specialty sites, or evilBay. 2)...

Did I rear that right ... 16 year old tires?

I'd recommend caution on those. Check them frequently. Even on my two garage queen convertibles which see only 2000 - 3000 miles per year, after about the 10 year mark the rubber starts to harden and wet traction falls off dramatically.

I' did mine around 2 years ago. It was a fairly easy slide out and slide in operation.

The tires are a little bit different in size, but as mentioned above should fit: Specification Sidewall Radius Diameter Circumference Revs/Mile Difference 195/60-15 4.6in 12.1in 24.2in 76.1in 833 0.0% 205/55-16 4.4in 12.4in 24.9in 78.2in 811 2.7% 205/50-16 would be the closer choice to your original...

Messerschmitt101: I just finished this job yesterday on the S70. I did everything on the front end except tie rods since their boots looked good and there was no play in them. My car has 180,000 miles on it and was riding like an old minivan towing a large boat. It was uncontrollable in curves and o...

On my V70 GLT head gasket job last year, I used the Volvo part and applied copper spray to both sides.

Mine was done for a burned valve, not an overheat condition.

15,000 miles later ... everything is great.

After looking through the service history record on my "new" S70T5m, I found the previous owner had recently replaced the axles, outer tie rods and sway bar links. Axles - SurTrack brand Tie Rods - Mevotech brand Links - Altrom brand I guess that explains why there's hella noise now coming from the ...

I think GKN / Lobro are one and the same company.

http://www.gknservice.com/gb/passenger_ ... oints.html

At that price, I ordered two. Both of my pumps are original to the car, and twenty years of operation is enough to warrant me putting a spare for each car on the shelf for future needs.

Those simple mechanics stethoscopes are relatively cheap and can really help!

I would vote to fix the issue. Either trace the EVAP lines and check the motley collection of rubber elbows and hoses in the system, or have a smoke test run on the EVAP system. Yes, continuing EVAP codes are a pain in the a$$, but if the bulb burns out you might miss more serious OBD2 codes in the ...

^^^ Hear! Hear!

I think Robert has secured his place in Valhalla for his service to the Volvo enthusiast community!

I just replaced all four bulbs in the ECC at the same time to avoid that exact problem.

I also had a few bulbs out on the dash switches. I did not replace all of those. The replacement bulbs are indeed brighter, which makes sense. Bulbs do go dim and discolor over time.

You're saying the head gasket/compression can become damaged without any obvious, severe performance problems (for a short while), correct? ^^^ Correct. Here's what I would do: A compression test can be done without the radiator in place. Do that first. If that fails, then you know you at least hav...

We need some more details about exactly what it needs to have done and why it's been parked for a year.

I can't speak for a NA car, but on my 98 GLT I had to replace one of these valves as well. They are easily tested by trying to blow through it from both directions. If the valve is good, it should only pass air in one direction. For the replacement, Volvo showed only an "assembly" that contained all...

^^^ concur with erikv11. I found that the clamp on the turbo lower hose was impossible to get to from underneath the car. A 1/4" drive metric socket set, two 1/4" universals, a collection of 1/4" extensions and a lot of patience was required. The small upper hose I just cut off. The replacement is n...

T5 or GLT motor? Could be the coolant rubber hose at the turbo. Those get oil soaked, swell and eventually fail. Other candidates at the back of the engine are the two heater hoses at the firewall plastic coupler. You'll have to refill with water and get under it ... but it should be pretty obvious....

The "while you're in there" list for me would include the following: New valve stem seals - Volvo brand only New head bolts New head gasket and spark plug tube oil seals New camshaft oil seals (x4) - Volvo or Corteco brand only New intake manifold gasket New exhaust manifold gasket(s) depending on t...

Many theories exist. My personal theory is that burned valves are caused by some combination of leaking valve stem seals, deposit buildup on the valves themselves and use of lower octane fuel. Your failures with the engines under load going up a mountain mirror my experience. What was your oil consu...

strange indeed. Help us narrow this down ... try the key that you have in every lock on the car - ignition, drivers' door, tailgate/trunk, wagon rear load floor and glovebox. Let us know specifically where it works and where it doesn't. Unfortunately, Elsa is 100 miles away and I have the valet key ...

^^^ either the glovebox lock was replaced in the past - or you have a "valet" key and not a "master" key. Volvos at that time shipped with two "master" keys - which work all the locks, and one "valet" key, which is a bit shorter and only works the door locks and ignition locks. The thought is that i...

With respect to the kit, we recommend only Volvo OEM for the valve stem seals and Volvo or Corteco only for the seals. I ordered my OEM rebuild parts through Tasca Volvo. When you get the head off, have a machine shop check it for flatness and cracks. This is enough of a job where you don't want to ...

In addition to the cap, check the coolant reservoir for cracking. They are notorious for developing cracks over time.

The missing intake manifold bolt could be causing a small vacuum leak which could certainly lead to rough running and poor idle. It all depends how much of a leak is there. The steam could be just condensation. If you're not having to add coolant to the tank, don't worry about that. The auto parts p...

There should be a third hose there. Hose #1 connects under the car to to the tank Hose #2 connects to the purge valve, which I believe on your car is on the fan shroud Hose #3 runs to the canister shutoff valve ... which basically allows fresh air into the canister under certain conditions. I can't ...

The real cosmetic flaws I see are the Bernie stickers.

Nice find! And like abscate said, don't bring it back across the country without a PCV check and known history on the timing belt.

FIX! Beautiful car! Coming from someone with two white P80's, of course. I've been in your shoes. Twice. After someone pulled out in front of my 1987 BMW E30, I had to threaten the offender's insurance company with legal action. What I did was research current listings for similar cars and recent sa...

PM'ed

Unfortunately this is a known issue and there's no solution to restoring the reflective coating on the headlight. The only option is to replace the headlight assemblies with new OEM Volvo ones or aftermarket assemblies. Others might share some experience with replacing the bulbs with LED or Xenon bu...

What is the temperature gauge on your dash showing? Tis the season for thermostat failures.

^^ I agree with Ozark Lee and erikv11. If your engine is otherwise in known good condition (had regular oil changes, never overheated, etc.), all you should need is your head reworked and you should be good to go. The bottom end should be fine. As said, use only OEM valve stem seals. You might be ab...

If the compression test was done with the engine cold it could explain the consistent lower readings.

I do agree with erikv11 - definitely not a burnt valve in your case.

The antenna will work just fine with a replacement head unit. You'll just connect the antenna trigger wire from the non-Volvo head unit to the correct wire on the car harness (with your new antenna down switch between them, of course)!

How is the rest of the Stage 0 stuff coming?

I borrowed a compression tester from Auto Zone. I have the Harbor Freight one and don't particularly care for it as it seems to want to separate at the wrong place when trying to back it out of the spark plug threads.

^^ yes, that is the switch that I used in my car. I highly recommend getting the switch / wiring from a junkyard car or posting in the "Want to Buy" section. You'll need not only the switch but also the harness connector and a few inches of the harness wiring to make it work as an antenna down switc...

Benpineapple and Polskamafia_mjl:

Thanks for those tool references!

If you have a CD cable plugged into the back of your current head unit - the other end is usually found in the trunk area where an accessory CD changer would mount. It was nice of Volvo to pre-wire that for us. AFAIK, the SC815 and SC816 is the same exact thing with different color face plates. Both...

These should be the two parts you need: http://www.tascaparts.com/oe-volvo/8631159 http://www.tascaparts.com/oe-volvo/9434263 Double check the numbers before ordering, but these are what i used on my early 1998's. Only the larger bushing which connects the bracket to the engine needs to be pressed i...

^^^ Agreeing with the above. It took me 30 minutes for both sides. Three 10mm bolts on each side. The connectors are all plug and play. Be careful with the plastic tabs on the corner lights - they are fragile. I would not pay a shop more than 45 minutes to one hour for the installation. You will def...

A data point for you ... This past spring I had my head cleaned and checked, mating surface cleaned up, valves lapped, and valve stem seals replaced for around $400. That did NOT include the cost of the valve stem seals or the three cooked exhaust valves I had to replace. I think the head gasket job...

Mobil 1 10W30 high mileage year round with a Volvo or Mann filter on a 5000 mile interval.

Welcome! That's a great first car to start with. On your last two items: 1) The proper antenna switch is no longer available. But a rear fog light switch and pigtail from a junkyard car (you'll have to make up a wiring harness) works just dandy. 2) The turn signal / indicator light housings have pla...

^^^ me too.

I've used KYB on two non-Volvo vehicles and have been very dissatisfied with them. And save the Gabriel / Monroe / cheap ones for a car that you can change them out in 5 minutes - not for a strut that requires a lot of effort and needs an alignment after replacement. Sachs are optimum in my opinion,...

PM'ed

^^^ I think it all depends on the condition of the rest of the car.

If the rest of the car is relatively nice, someone may be interested in transplanting an engine into it. If it's tired cosmetically, worn out or has other issues, it's probably time to donate or scrap it.

Jazzer:

Give this stuff a try first. It fixed a rather serious leak on my BMW E30 steering rack. I just topped off as needed and eventually the leak went away,

Valvoline MaxLife (ATF) Automatic Transmission Fluid with Stop Leak

Good luck!

Nope. The new coolant is green in color. I had the same concerns as Neil when I saw the color had changed.

Clifford: I've never removed an aluminum cylinder head from a motor that didn't have some degree of warp to it. I always have mine checked at a machine shop and resurfaced, regardless of mileage. In your case, I'd also have the head checked for leaks and casting cracks. Not to state the obvious, but...

I replaced my front cam seals as I reinstalled the cams on the head. I didn't remove the cam sprockets. I took great care that the seals remained positioned correctly on the camshafts and in the head, and that they stayed in place as I reinstalled the cam cover.

Sounds like you need a new mechanic. Could the seal have been loose and fallen out during the disassembly? Possibly. The seal cannot detach itself from the engine because the distributor (98 and prior) blocks it on the intake cam and the cam position sensor blocks it on the exhaust cam. If the seal ...

If the problem started when you did the work on the front of the engine, and the level of coolant in the reservoir is correct, check the connector for the float switch on the reservoir that it is connected and properly seated. The wiring is easy to damage or bump when doing work on the front of the ...

101: Please update. Any pictures before you sent off the head? Here you go, sleddriver ... Here's a picture of the engine with the head off: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B26Par6hjko0dnBBcHY5eXVOckUtNDZodlhoaFBUVUhvQUFj Here are pictures of the spark plugs as removed. The way to interpret these...

picture #1 is definitely the battery hold down clip. With the battery in the tray and shoved all the way towards the driver's side fender, the slot on the clip fits on the edge of the tray and you push it down to lock it into place. picture #2 is a support bracket for the exhaust manifold. You'll se...

The foam roller method gives you nice even coverage on the sealing surface. I wouldn't try this job any other way. Make sure you cover every little portion of the sealing surface. There's no curing time with an anaerobic sealant ... it stays wet until the surfaces are joined together and it drys in ...

Lemfoerder is what I use on all my euro cars.

FCP is running 10% off this weekend.

You can definitely check it with a metal straight edge as cn90 said above ... but if you are planning on keeping the car for a while longer I highly recommend having the head fully inspected and the valve stem seals replaced with OEM Volvo seals by a competent machine shop. It's an investment that w...

O'Reilly's had a Gates and another brand belt for mine. I picked up the Gates one.

After my burnt exhaust valve experience, I only feed the gals Shell 93 now.

Pick up one of those kits and check for combustion gases in the coolant. That will tell you if there is exhaust making its way into the cooling system. The other thing to check would be the coolant reservoir. They get brittle over time which can cause cracks in the plastic. I've found mine last arou...

Yes it will. All the P80 series S70/V70 /C70 dashes interchange with each other.

If you've got the early 98 version (with the vapor canister in front of the left tire), that plastic line goes directly to the canister. There are no valves in the system until AFTER the canister. I haven't played around enough with my later 98 car to see how that system is piped. It hasn't plagued ...

Ethan - the condition of the valves after a timing belt break would largely depend on what the engine speed was when it broke. If the belt broke at start up or at low speed, there might be a chance of minimal valve damage. If it was at higher engine speed, I'd wager most of the valves are now bent. ...

I just did this job on my 1998 S70 this past weekend. I have the mechanically fired SIPS seats so I did not have to disconnect the battery. You will. To get the driver's seat out, first remove the four 14mm bolts. Then recline both front seats and adjust the steering wheel closest to the instrument ...

For $25, I wouldn't mess with it. Just replace it with a new Volvo sensor. That coolant level sensor is your first line of defense to prevent coolant loss and engine overheating when: - the heater core decides to takes a dump - the plastic neck on the radiator decides to break off - one of the turbo...

Your experience matches mine. Before my burned valve episode the car was using about a quart every 1000 miles. After having new valve stem seals installed with the head rework, the oil consumption is just about nil.

Another 1998 V70 GLT owner here. As said above, check the cam seals and oil filler cap gasket first. If those check OK, the exhaust heat shields (its a three piece assembly) only have about 5 bolts that hold the whole thing on. It's fairly easy to remove, but take a picture of it installed to avoid ...

I didn't think the selector screw would turn that far, but see if this helps. I assume the switch is the same for all US based P80 cars.

http://new.volvocars.com/ownersdocs/199 ... 2.htm#pg26

^^ agree with the above. Two ideas for you: 1) Buy a cheap mechanic's stehescope and see if you can use that to narrow down the area where the noise is coming from. 2) Remove the serpentine belt and start the engine. You can safely run the engine for a bit as the water pump is rotated with the timin...

The correct repair would be to remove the head and have it reworked by a reputable machine shop. If one valve is burnt, others may follow shortly. At a minimum, the one exhaust valve, a set of valve stem seals, and checking the cylinder head for flatness are needed. It all depends on the condition o...

You would wind up buying most of the kit - minus the two long hoses you are going to be substituting. That would be the separator (PCV box) itself, the hose that goes from the separator to the top of the engine, the hose that goes from the separator to the engine block, and the hose that goes from t...

What's the condition of your PCV system? You'd be surprised where these engines can seep oil from. I chased a very similar oil leak on mine for a very long time. Your pictures look exactly like the bottom of my car once did. Once I redid the PCV system and mod to upgrade to the larger diameter hoses...

^^^ agree. Strut wearout is a gradual thing.

How many miles are on your car - and is any record of them having been changed in the past? I find 100K to be near the end of the service life of any strut or shock absorber - and for your roads in the northeast probably less.

Turbo oil inlet tube leaks are fairly rare. The turbo oil inlet tube is metal tube that runs across the back of the engine from the #1 side and below the exhaust manifold. It is sealed on both sides with a banjo bolt and crush washers. The tube can fracture or the banjo bolts can work themselves loo...

I purchased the FAG bearings from FCP for around $120 each. Very happy with the results.

Don't forget to purchase the four torx head bolts (each side) that attach the bearing to the knuckle. They are one-time use bolts.

So it looks like my best option will be to have a body shop try to get the roof up as cheaply as they can, then take the boy's mom to small claims court if need be to recover that cost. I agree - that is your best option. Involving your insurance company in the claim may raise rates and/or result i...

Try turning the temperature dials on the electronic climate control unit all the way to hot (or cool). On both of my P80's you can hear the little motors that control the amount of heat added to the air stream fluttering a bit when the temperature inside the car is equal to the temperature outside t...

The timing belt deteriorates with both time and mileage. Mileage is certainly on your side, but at 13 years old, the belt is WAY over on the time interval. If it were my car - I would not risk it. For an older car, timing belt failure is the difference between continuing to drive the car with confid...

Sure - give the cleaning thing a try first. You might need some steam cleaning to dislodge that kind of buildup.

When I asked my "magic 8 ball" if your 23 year old evaporator would still be good, it said "highly unlikely".

My experience using OEM pads was about 30K in the front and about 45K on the rear. I've since switched to the Akebono pads and they last roughly twice as long.

YMMV.

Teddy1975: I would not do anything until you replace / clean your PCV system and completely clean the engine. Oil can travel around and appear to be leaking in places where it really isn't. I chased an annoying oil leak around Elsa for several years. I thought it was a rear main seal, a rear cam sea...

yep - those are plastic wheel covers over steel wheels. Standard base model offering.

I'll take them!

shipping to 45208. PM me your PayPal.

Thanks!

That's a nice looking 850m!

And bonus points to you sir for teaching your daughter to drive a manual transmission!

I would not want to put the added pressure and wear on the parking pawl inside the transmission. E-Brake repairs are tedious, but not overly difficult.

It's likely a hole or two in the exhaust. The common failure points include the pipe right as it exits the back of the catalytic converter, and the joint between the front and rear sections. A good custom exhaust shop that knows what they're doing can fix you up with a weld or sleeve repair for a re...

Timing belt = car remains serviceable, resale value preserved.

No timing belt = you're walking to the car lot to purchase another questionable used car and the value on your Volvo is scrap value (~300).

I think there's a point where too much engine blowby overwhelms the amount of "suck" available with the standard hose setup.

I upgraded to the 5/8" hose mod on my GLT and the PCV system is working well again.

Cardone + primer + caliper paint = your best value. Of course, then you'd have to paint the front calipers to match

Red calipers look pretty sweet on my white wagon.

When I pulled my engine down my exhaust manifold had loose bolts at #4 and #5 ... and it was pretty badly warped. Was it a contributing factor to my burned valves? Quite possibly.

Supporting what rspi said above - I just paid $673 to recondition my head. Since I knew the history of my motor I didn't want to venture off and buy a reconditioned core that might have been seriously overheated or contained non-Volvo parts. Two of my exhaust valves had holes. The third exhibited so...

My experience mirrors the others above. I have Akebono's front and back with standard Brembo rotors on my GLT wagon. The Akebono's are very long lasting and produce minimal light colored dust ... but in my opinion they do not have the bite of the stock Volvo pads. I'm fine with the trade off I made ...

Neil: Correct. I just swap the connection in the glove box. I did not use the USA Spec supplied cable that plugs into the Volvo radio with the two additional connections required. PM me your email address and I'll take a few pictures tomorrow or Tuesday. I'll also send you a closeup of how the DIP s...

I have this exact same setup in my car. SC-901 head unit, 6CD glove box changer and the USA Spec adapter. I swap between the 6 CD changer and the USA Spec options depending on my mood. I keep the connector accessible in the glove box. All I have to do is disconnect the cable from the changer (its ab...

Always better to repair! If you do have to go the replacement seat route, be aware that there were some changes in the seats over the years. The one that I am somewhat aware of is that the SIPS side bag changed from mechanical actuation to electrical actuation between 1998 and 1999. I have no idea i...

Definitely heater core. It's the only coolant source in the cabin. If this is the first heater core for your car, you did good! Most fail way before 245K miles.

^^^ true - but it only takes one trip to blow out one of those lovely seals.

Mine had a small hole at 211K miles. This should probably be added to a "Stage 0" workscope. It's inexpensive enough and easy to replace. abscate may be right. I need to qualify my response about this part being "easy to replace". It's easy to replace when the cylinder head is off the car. :D I did...

Mine had a small hole at 211K miles. This should probably should be added to a "Stage 0" workscope. It's inexpensive enough and easy to replace.

The P0455 is definitely not related to the dipstick. Since your car is a 1998, start with the easy stuff to attack the P0455 code: 1) Remove and check that the EVAP purge valve (mounted on the fan shroud) holds vacuum in both directions. Clean it with carb cleaner if it does not. Replace the valve i...

The amp for the S70 was only ever mounted behind the radio on the tunnel or under the seat. I thought the T-5's came standard with an amp, but maybe not. I believe what you have in your trunk is for the accessory 6 CD changer - its data cable and its power connector. These were pre-run from the fact...

Southern Vovo in Kingsport, TN is not too far from you. There is a Pull-A-Part and a LKQ Pick Your Part in Charlotte, both of which usually have quite a few donor S70/V70's. Lake View Auto Parts is another local Charlotte salvage yard that more or less specializes in Volvo stuff. I've gotten parts f...

I was thinking of going the Clearwater head route as well but some of the online reviews are less than kind.

I wound up calling the Stealer and a BMW specialist I know to find out which machine shops they recommend.

yeah - she's apparently pretty sick. I'll break out my trust fuel pressure gauge and check the fuel pressure. As part of the rebuild, I will be installing only Volvo OEM or equivalent parts, and: - a set of reconditioned fuel injectors (mine are original, the o-rings are dried out and two of the pla...

I updated my other thread with disassembly findings. http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=74171

UPDATE I removed the head today. It took me 5 hours from start to finish doing it by myself in the driveway with the front of the car on ramps. This was my first Volvo head removal. Overall, the job went well. I was pleased at the quality of the hardware that Volvo uses to put these cars together. A...

I highly recommend the 5/8" hose mod. It corrected the pressure situation and fixed my problem oil seepage.

Did you get the PTC orifices nice and clean?

a) 1998 b) V70 GLT c) 211K d) 211K (I'm the original owner) e) 87, but I do use 89 or 93 on longer highway trips f) Shell or BP g) (50% city/ 50% hwy) h) Average Driving Behavior i) Varies - But on average two occupants j) Cincinnati area. 10K - 12K miles per year, evenly distributed year round. Amb...

update Got the car back home to Cincinnati today. It was 450 miles of absolute torture. It ran poorly as expected with the #3 cylinder out of commission, but the bigger issue today was absolutely no power going up hills. That was not a good situation crossing the Appalachian Mountains through Virgin...

It's generally 60 cents a gallon price difference here. I'm not sure if the fuel economy is that much better on 91.

I'll post some pictures of what I find once I get the head off.

There were no leaky valve stem seals that I was aware of - at least not enough to ever show any trace of blue smoke.

I'll find out more once I take the head off in a few weeks.

If you have a hydraulic tensioner system, your Blue Box parts list for the 1998 GLT motor to replace all components is: 9146693 Timing Belt Hydraulic Damper 30758260 Timing Belt Kit (timing belt, idler roller, tensioner roller, plastic spacer, sticker) 30751700 Water Pump Kit (water pump, gasket, bo...

There's probably something to rspi's theory. On the good side - I've owned the car since new. 211K miles on it now. I've always meticulously maintained it per the Volvo recommended schedule and its had Mobil 1 oil changes every 5K miles. The times I've done the PCV system its clean, clean clean. The...

+1 on the compression test.

Rule out an engine mechanical issue before anything else.

And/or pick up this one while you are there, try getting it home first: http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=74062 :D Funny you mention that car That's EXACTLY where I was headed when mine took a dump. I spoke to the owner in detail about the car and low and behold it also ha...

MVS: I lost cylinder #3 on my 1998 V70 GLT (211K miles) while driving through the mountains of West Virginia yesterday. I limped the car to my destination in Charlotte, NC. I did the diagnostics this morning and confirmed zero compression on #3, with no other head gasket related symptoms. I've disco...

Paul C - I was in a similar situation. My "new to me" spoiler came with the brackets but most of the screws and nuts were missing. I was unable to order the "kit" - so I cleaned up and repainted the brackets but had to order all the screws and nuts individually. I'm not sure if the 4 brackets are av...

^^^ Having done this myself, it is indeed the same part.

The Volvo P/N for the transition hoses is 3501350. If you go this route, get the Volvo ones, not the Uro branded ones. I tried using generic vacuum line at first, but the problem is that the diameter of the plastic line is larger than that of the rollover valve. You can certainly squeeze it on the l...

Lakeview Auto Parts in Charlotte was where I sourced a 1998 Volvo V70 sunroof assembly back in 2012. Might be worth a look to see if they are still around and still deal in Volvo parts.

^^^ nice to see that the grammar police are on the job today. OP - yes, that is your problem. That hard plastic line attaches to the rollover valve which is located next to the fuel filter. The valve is white in color (unless heavily undercoated) and is about 1.5" in size with two nipples on it. Tha...

My P0455 code turned out to be the rubber elbows on either side of the rollover valve (located right beside the fuel filter in front of the right rear wheel). I have an early build 1998 non-AWD model, so your hose routing(s) may vary.

Worth a look.

You have your SC-901 head unit. Check. You have the Dolby processor. Check. Sounds like you do NOT have the center speaker / dash yet. That's OK - it can be added later. Your amplifier options are: - part #6816302 - 4 x 50W that mounts behind the radio - part #1384848 - 4 x 40W that mounts behind th...