nice diagrams, but pretty sure only one way when you actually get in there and look. there are some tight tolerances there.

sorry to take so much time. I have been very busy.

the "tool" i keep in my car to de-tension the belt is a strip of metal about 4cm by 2.5 cm or 1" by 1 5/8" and a large adjustable wrench. I have made several of these but tend to lose them so I try to keep one in the ashtray or glove compartment ...

i have never used ceramic or drilled rotors but i'd think drilled rotors might be more abrasive on pads. interested in seeing other responses. i've been thinking of getting new ones myself. gotta love that reverb/vibration you get when the rear rotors warp in the 850 wagon. it's torturesome.

when i made mine, i used 3/16 flat bar steel. I bolted the flat side squarely to the angle iron and then used a grinder on one side of the steel so that it just squeezed in tightly and was centered by the other side. it worked, car runs gret.

i didn't remove head. think i'd chicken out on that one ...

engineering on modern cars can be quite impressive, but overall, they are not designed to sit still. i have often had minor glitches with cars allowed to sit. it's annoying.

be glad you are back and running.

next time, let an old lady borrow the car while you are away.

Sorry it took so long to get back.

I fixed the problem, and what a huge diff it made in the performance. I basically have that turbo head jerk feeling again that has been missing for quite some time now.

I printed that vacc diagram weeks ago when you first posted it (thanks for enlaging). I like ...

i just did mine. it was the easiest part of the job. The haynes manual I have said to use some type of volvo hydraulic sealing compound on the bolts, the parts store guy said just use blue rtv, which I did and it does not leak, hopefully this was not a huge mistake.

It was a little tight to get ...

dos b,
you may have got me.....
I replaced the original compressor (bad clutch) 1.5 years ago with a used compressor and got quite a bit of service out of it. It was installed ,recharged and supposedly oiled, by a local shop but always seemed a bit noisy to me. My system had a very slow leak that I ...

there are rubber hoses that go to the turbo, but i was referring to the metal oil-return pipe that puts oil back in the pan. You could check it for a leak on the back side of the engine, you won't be able to see it unless you are under the car. I'd guess you have multiple leaks with that kind of ...

I couldn't figure out how to do that. I was typing with one hand, baby in the other.

So where does it go?