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I've replaced my turn signal stalk, and IIRC it was pretty straightforward and easy. With that many miles, I would not be surprised to learn you also needed replacement.

Can you tell us which cell phone mount you used? I have one I want to use, and it appears to have a ball of similar dimensions, but I like how your ball screwed in to the switch. I'd like to know make/model of the mount, I might do a hybrid installation. Thanks!

Roger

You can order the tensioner pulley separately? I didn't know that. As of now, I think Tasca comes in cheapest on the tensioner at around $187. I've heard of some people going as far as to remove and replace the bearings from both the idlers and the tensioners. It really brings the cost down, if one...

I would not do it. My biggest peeve is when I fix something, and I take a shortcut, then I end up having to do it a second time, to do it right. With my luck, this would be one of those things. For a $5 gasket, or even a $50 gasket, I'll use the factory part, do it right, and be happy with it. (If I...

I agree, the bearings on one of the pulleys is dry and probably likely to fail soon. Depending upon the exact failure, that can damage the timing cover (which they are bolted to,) and be quite an involved repair. Much better to replace them before they seize. You could disassemble and figure out whi...

I've always jacked it up, rear of the car on jack stands, and a floor jack to slightly lift the wheel as needed to make it easy to get the bolts in. Thinking about it, you might be able to do it without jacking, but how do you get under there? Maybe back it up onto ramps? I can certainly say that ja...

You need VIDA, which is Vehicle Information for Diagnostics and Aftersales. It's a PC based software package that has all of the factory manuals and repair procedures in it. I've heard of other Mac users installing VIDA to run in a virtual Windows machine, which may be your answer. VIDA is written t...

Do you have VIDA and a DiCE? They would make troubleshooting a lot easier. The module in the drivers door (Drivers Door Module, DDM) controls the window and the mirror and the puddle light directly, which is how your mechanic can apply voltage and move the window. In the passenger door, there is the...

I'm just checking to see what I set mine at. I have one reference that suggests toe-in at -0.20" +/- 0.1" for the front, which would be -5mm +/- 2.5mm for the total toe in. The -2mm that you ended up with is a little less toe-out than my spec suggests; that would tend to slightly more scrub the oute...

Re-reading your original post... Would it be accurate to say that under acceleration, your steering "sticks" where it is at? If it's turning it takes a lot of effort to straighten it, and if it's straight it takes effort to turn it? Or is it a lot of effort to get it to go anything other than straig...

Have you ever replaced the A-Arms? (aka Control Arms)? They (or more specifically the bushings that connect them to the sub-frame) undergo a LOT of stress in daily use, and can fail. It's possible to set the alignment with bad bushings, too, so having a successful alignment doesn't necessarily mean ...

What voltage do you see on it when the car is running? At the battery terminals, as well as at the alternator output lug? I have had high resistance in the battery cables cause it to not charge as well as it might, with similar symptoms to what you describe. Fixing the cables, I ran the battery for ...

0-121-715-009 & 6G9N-10300-MA are Bosch and Ford part numbers for a 180A alternator, Volvo 31110085. Ford owned Volvo from 1999 - 2010. Of course they combine their purchasing power to get a better price. Do not be surprised if it is stamped FoMoCo ( Fo rd Mo tor Co mpany) on the back also. RickHal...

That's the problem. The alternator is still in the car and I don't want to remove it till I have the replacement. The numbers I can read are on the black plastic cover on the back side. They are 0121 715009 and 6g9n-10300-ma. I suspect those are the numbers for the cover. FCP did a vin search and s...

The parts that you circled are the actuators for the Variable Valve Timing (VVT). The end of the actuators stick through the valve covers, where there is an oil seal to keep the oil in. It sounds like your oil seals have failed.

How many miles are OEM BOSCH coils good for? My experience has been that you start to get random misfires somewhere ~150k miles or so. At that point, you can troubleshoot to figure out which one is giving you random misfires, and replace it and be good. Of course, the others all have the same heat ...

I'm not sure about aftermarket, but last time I checked the dealer still had them.

The trouble is that often when things leak hot, it evaporates immediately and can't be readily seen. My preferred way to look for coolant leaks is to pressurize cold. I have a "tee" fitting that I put in the line going to the top of the overflow tank, and I have a gauge and a Schrader valve. I'll pr...

It seems like a lot of work for something that rarely needs to be touched. What are you hoping to gain?

Roger

80% of statistics are flawed , including this one Wcm and I played with a $20 sniffer from HF to track down a bad o ring (s) on His P80 I’ve done about a dozen AC jobs now, Evaps were half of them, two leaky compressors , two rusted out driers, one space alien , and the rest bad orings in lines. I ...

Hi Everyone, Here's a new problem for me, didn't find it in a search of the forums, so I thought I'd ask. '95 850T, 328k miles. It's been off the road for 3 months while I did some work, (replace turbo, engine mounts), first drive out today. When I get home and park in the garage, and shut the car o...

The 2.5T engine is generally regarded pretty well, with no major chronic issues. Many people have significantly more miles on it than the one you're looking at. That said, use the due care you would for any car that's 14 years old with >300,000km's! At that age, it's really all about the care and ma...

The squeal is from the pads vibrating in the frame. I've always had good success by putting the anti-squeal compound on both the back of the pad, as well as where the ears contact the frame. I use the CRC "Disk Brake Quiet" on all my Volvos - 240, 850, V70, XC90, and all variety of pads. I've even d...

The P0011 is the generic code for ECM-640A, (camshaft intake). It is stored if the position of the camshaft deviates from the requested position in relation to the crankshaft over a certain amount of time. I have seen this when I had issues with my timing belt and the cam was effectively behind by a...

The most accurate way to set up the timing belt is to get the tool that locks the back of the camshafts and crankshaft, and ensure the vvt's are rotated correctly and aligned. That said, if you mark the gears before you take it off, and it was correct before, then you can get it back together in the...

Do you have VIDA? Are any trouble codes being set? Spark plugs are good to check, if you don't know when they were last replaced. Cold temperatures make the fuel less volatile, and harder to light off. Possibly the temperature sensor that the ECU reads. It sounds like it dies with a transition from ...

With a P0300 trouble code, sounds like you're using a generic code scanner, not VIDA. P0300 is for random / multiple misfires. I'm not sure what kind of circuit there is between the ignition and the blower fan on your 850. For this one, I would look at common things for multiple misfires. And especi...

Do you have VIDA? There's a good step-by-step guide in there. The key is that you have to take off the top half of the intake manifold to get the pump out. Basically, the steps are: 1. Remove the PS reservoir, drain the fluid. 2. Remove the top part of the intake manifold. (You will need 2 new gaske...

Has Volvo ever published a replacement interval for these parts? I have an '08 coming apart to replace the valve cover gaskets and it has over 160K on it. If there is a recommended replacement interval this would be a good time to do it but I would hate to pull a head off for no reason. I've never ...

Which brand thermostat was that Roger? That was a Volvo thermostat. (Says Volvo on the bottom, and Wahler on the top.) To not be too hard on Volvo, it may be that it's never been changed. I checked my records, and while I replaced hoses and coolant along the way, I didn't explicitly write down that...

I had the thermostat fail on my 850T. It gave the usual symptoms - failure to warm up much. It would warm up, just in 45 minutes, and would be giving me heat by the time I got to work. I finally got the replacement part, and found that rather than the wax failing (as expected), the bracket holding t...

I am trying to find an oil pan seal kit for the V8 and haven't had any luck. I find plenty of oil pan seal kits for Volvo oil pans, but none of them include the V8 in the fitment list. Would the following be compatible with the V8? One of the other posters is correct, it's a sealant, not a gasket f...

I will often determine the oil leak by inspection. The fix is to replace the shaft oil seals, which involves taking the sprockets off the VVT hubs. It's probably worthwhile to do the timing belt at the same time, since it will have to come off anyway. Because you need to disassemble the VVT hub, it ...

The gear should only fit on the crankshaft one way. There are splines inside the gear, and corresponding splines on the crankshaft, and the gear will only fit on in one orientation and fully seat to the bottom. Other orientations it may go on only part way, but only one where it will seat all the wa...

At least you have been able to narrow it down to related to wheel speed! It may be that the lug nuts were not tight, or there was something hitting, that was dislodged when you removed/replace the wheels, so it's plausible that you may have fixed it. If it comes back, maybe rotate tires around? See ...

I vote 100% change the fluid, you'll be happy that you did. Transmission fluids can be a touchy subject and if you use the wrong spec you'll not be very happy. The AW5x transmission uses straight up JWS3309, folks can say what they wish about alternatives but for many years the most common fluids t...

It matters - that's how the ECU knows which rotation the crankshaft is on. I haven't worked on that exact year, but I think you'll find if you look closely, it will only go back properly in one orientation. Looking at the back of the camshaft, there is a groove that is offset from center. I think th...

You probably don't want to hear this, but I am wondering if it's the timing cover. The timing cover has the same type of seals as the valve covers, and over time they get hard and brittle too, and stop sealing so well. When I did mine, I did them all. (I had to take off the timing cover anyway, so i...

Very interesting. More interesting to note the incomplete drain hole. That would seem to be a problem... Thanks for sharing!

Roger

Explore around a little. If you go into each one, it will tell you when it occurred, how frequently it occurred, and how many normal cycles since it occurred. If it hasn't been read and cleared in a while, these may be old. (Perhaps when the battery went flat 2 years ago, or whatever happened to you...

If you are in a position to remove one of the wheels, you can often read the part number from the current rotor. Sometimes it's obscured by rust, depending upon where you live and drive. That can also take a bit of detective work if it's not a Volvo rotor, as you have to figure out who the manufactu...

Also, when the fan is not running, if I turn the manual knob, I see the green light for the A/C turn amber when the fan knob is at zero, then green when the fan is supposed to be turning. I have not been successful in inducing airflow by driving with the windows cracked open, so I don't even get any...

What do you mean by ignored controller ? By that I mean I can set the manual fan control somewhere (middle, max, off, anywhere in between) and the LED's around the knob light up in the corresponding position (middle, max, off, in-between), but the fan does not change at all. When the fan chooses to...

I'm having trouble with the climate fan in my 2002 V70. It's intermittent. Sometimes it blows in pulses. wooh, wooh, wooh, maybe about 1-2 Hz. When the car is really hot, when it's been parked outside and baked in the sun, (interior well over 100F,) then it doesn't blow at all. (Most inconvenient, t...

I agree with SuperHerman - you need to figure out what's really going on first. It's pretty common for people to be sloppy filling oil, and/or a hard oil fill gasket, allowing oil to leak out, and it finds it's way into the spark plug holes. Is the oil more centered on the middle cylinders? I'd clea...

I agree. 0 fuel pressure measured at the rail points to a fuel pump issue, and the question is: is the pump not running, or is there an obstruction that prevents the fuel from flowing. ViDA will indicate what the CEM *thinks* the PEM is doing. See if you can find the fuel pump. If the pump is runnin...

Does anyone know if it is possible for a mechanic to inspect to see if the drain hole is there without having to disassemble the entire engine to look at it? If it is plugged up, maybe clean it out somehow? I'm so nervous this thing is going to fail. Maybe. Yes if the manifold is coming off for ano...

Man, I wish I had seen this prior to purchasing my v8 2005 with 59k miles in July 2019. I do love the XC90 and hope engine 7001 doesn’t suffer this defect. Here’s to hoping. Great write up, at least I know if I hear an engine noise, get it towed immediately Cducasse, Don't regret it. It sounds like...

I would just take the issues on one at a time. Find the leak, and fix it. Sometimes soap and water works. I have a "halogen detector" which has a little sniffer wand, and makes noise when it picks up a halogen (refrigerant), which works reasonably well. It's good for checking hose connections vs. a ...

Just to offer some closure - I did replace the valve cover gaskets, all associated stuff that comes with the FCEuro kit (but odered OEM parts) as well as sparks and some other gaskets recommended in other threads. It was a pain, took a long couple of days to get it all back together. That being sai...

So the right way to address this would be to put on a set of gauges and see what's actually going on before randomly throwing parts at it. Does it still work? If the overpressure valve vented off a little extra charge, then stopped venting, then you may be ok. Gauges will tell you. If it doesn't sti...

FCP carries a kit that includes pretty much anything and everything you would need for the timing cover gasket job, including the sealant and PCV hoses. I might get that kit, but I don’t know about spending $65 on the Wurth sealant. Great tips though, I’ll probably change the water pump too. I look...

I came across this youtube video that I thought was pertinent, so I thought I'd share it on this thread. This gentleman does a full teardown of the V8. The dialog is in Russian (I think) so I don't have a clue what he's saying, but the visuals and seeing what it all looks like when disassembled woul...

I had planned on just doing a drain and fill on the transmission but am wondering if I do this will I have to have the Vida/dice hooked up to my car after I do the drain and fill? I have been told not to do a drain and fill unless I have it to check things out and make sure things are running norma...

A note on the "Low Oil Level" message: My oil level sensor does not like Castrol Magnatek oil, and gives me false low readings if I use it. I changed out the $120 sensor only to have the message persist, and finally cured by an oil change to a different flavor of oil. I recommend changing the oil fi...

With them that low across all cylinders, I would suspect something on the camshaft timing. Maybe something slipped a tooth. (I had this when I had a mistreated crankshaft gear that wasn't tightened down properly by a prior owner, and it was effectively delayed by about 1-2 teeth.) I recommend you st...

You don't mention how many miles, and when (or if) you last changed the transmission fluid. With a 2007, I'm guessing you have over 100k miles, and since Volvo doesn't recommend it, many people don't change the fluid. My experience is that it does need to have the fluid changed, and it sounds like y...

I have the same XC90 - I agree with the other posters - the issue with the balance shaft bearing is due to washing the engine, or in my case, I think I got some fuel in there when I changed the fuel pressure sender. To fix it, you have to remove the intake manifold and one of the cylinder heads. Tha...

It's a 2007, so it's the "improved design". I have to dig a little deeper to get a good view on the leak, I haven't totally pinpointed it yet. There's definitely a good bit of oil leaking, though, and it definitely looks like it's coming from around the timing cover. Particularly on the back side o...

Here's a note on sealing compound. The Volvo manual indicates to use p/n 30757050 "Engine Sealing Compound" to seal a couple of spots on the timing chain cover. I couldn't find it anywhere. It's no longer available from Volvo. FCP carries a product by Wurth, product 08933211, which I bought and used...

Great info, thanks for posting that list! I'm going to need to take care of the timing cover gasket on my mom's V8 soon, and I want to replace everything I can while I'm in there. At 153k miles, most anything in that area is due for replacement anyway. How's the timing cover gasket? If you're going...

Here's the list of parts that I ended up buying for the balance shaft bearing replacement. It's a word doc, because I couldn't paste from Excel and have it formatted reasonably nicely. Altogether $1,195 in parts. Volvo XC90 Balance Shaft Bearing Replacement - parts list.docx There were a number of p...

Is there any volvo p/n on the plastic "bulge" part? Tha might help inform a cross-reference.

Roger

I'm at a loss. I can't find your pipes that bulge in the parts listing, the parts listing only looks like what I posted before. What's on the bottom of your "bulge" parts? Other question: is you XC90 US Spec, or elsewhere? One would presume US Spec, since you're in Kansas, but sometimes one never kn...

Can you point at where it goes in this picture?

Roger

That is what I am finding, $175 for the whole assembly. If nobody can locate replacement seals, I will do one of two things. Build up the seals with RTV or soak the seals in ATP AT-205 Re-Seal to recondition them. Still debating on which course of action. The seals have no apparent damage. Where do...

...What kills me is that I went to a Volvo dealership specifically to avoid this kind of thing - if we're allowed to name and shame, it's the service center for Volvo Cars of Bethesda (Maryland). EDIT: Newish to the area, and it's the first time getting my XC90 serviced (got it used a while back), ...

Anybody know where to source the seals for VPN 30636760? Following, I'll pipe up if I think I can help! Not sure if this helps, but here is the 30636760 hose, not necessarily the seal... https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-air-cleaner-intake-hose-xc90-genuine-volvo-30636760 Or from Volvo: https:...

Did you ever confirm if you have the right dipstick? Looking in VIDA, I see there are 3 different dipsticks, depending on your chassis number. (Chassis number is the last 6 digits of your VIN...) Dipstick 30788016 CH -418239 Dipstick 31251037 CH 418240-568000 Dipstick 31316562 CH 568001- Hope this h...

It's back on the road. Hooray! :D It took a while, primarily because we had a backup car, (it was merely inconvenient, not urgent,) and life gets in the way. All told, it took me 7 months. But that 7 months included new floor throughout the main level of the house, a day job, life with an active dau...

Any codes in ViDA? If it's misfiring, it might have set a code. If you still get that occasional shake when it's at idle in neutral, then I would think probably not the transmission. Something is causing a misfire, and it's doing it when the transmission is not connected. Do you get the "occasional ...

I find the manuals are generally pretty spot-on, so this seems suspicious. I'd start by verifying it's the correct dipstick, (volvo p/n should be stamped on it,) then I'd inspect that the dipstick tube is properly seated and inserted all the way.

Roger

As a side note, new tensioner comes compressed with the "hold" bracket, save for future use. I second this! I threw one away, thinking "the next one will come with one", then ended up having to buy one when I had to take the aux belt off for some other work. Since it's being done at a dealer, you m...

They didn't ask me but it seems a better thing to do in the rear bearing saddle area is to take a Dremel or other tool with a burr and grind a groove down the bottom middle. There is a hole in the balance shaft case that goes into the hollow cavity already. If debris blocks the drilled one why have...

Hi Masscompguru, Mostly done, but not quite. Actually, I had it all back together and took it on a test drive, but apparently managed to not get the rear valve cover gasket quite right, as it's leaking significantly, so it's coming apart again. :( Once I get it all done, I'll be posting more picture...

I go back and forth on which brands to buy. I've bought reported OEM brands, and sometimes they are excellent (Bosch), and sometimes they are not. For suspension parts, I have been burned too many times, and I only by Volvo. Especially control arms. For gaskets, it's a tough call. I just did a bunch...

This video makes the solid polyurethane look appealing... Maybe even Delrin in the front...

Roger

Wow, that's impressive. Thank you for sharing! FYI, I have had really poor results with Meyle. On my XC90, I replaced them after ~10k miles. Some people like Lemforder, but I will only put on blue-box volvo control arms now. I'm tired of doing it again in short order, and the blue-box Volvo ones hav...

I'm curious. Would you consider a thermostat to be a "wear item" to be replaced at regular intervals just because it's got some miles on it? I've already got my Volvo apart. (2005 XC90 V8, 140k miles.) It's not like the aux belt pulleys or tensioner, which have bearings that wear. And I'm replacing ...

Not much progress lately. Ordered parts, waiting for them to arrive. I decided to do the water pump while I'm at it - I would be really unhappy if the existing water pump with 140k miles on it chose to fail in the next year, so I figured I'd do it now. Parts have been straightforward, but the fluids...

The drain hole to be drilled is easy and it's aluminum. The CRITICAL note is to limit drilling to the one wall depth. 6mm is ample travel. If you go through the cavity that is open to bell housing/back of block and go through the next wall that is the crankcase just above oil slinging crankshaft bi...

jimmy57, No stepping on toes - I'm happy for the input from someone who's done this before, thank you! I'd rather get your input upfront than screw it up and make a mistake that will ruin the engine! Yes, I have the bulletin on the hole to drill and the side of the channel I have to file. That will ...

Balance shaft is out. Hooray! The bearing was very tight and did not want to move. It took two trips to the store and three attempts before I was able to come up with a puller that was stout enough to move it. I ended up using a piece of 3/8" steel I had around from a different project, perched atop...

I made good progress today! Thanks for the advice about getting the head bolts loose. I now have a shiny new 3/4" socket set, plus an adapter to fit the 14mm 6-point socket that fits into the head. That, a 4' cheater bar, and a 12 year old helper to keep things steady at the right time, and I was ab...

jimmy57, thanks for the good advice! I'll definitely watch the cams when I put it back together!

Meanwhile, I'm stuck with the cylinder head bolts. I can't get them loose. I think I need a 6' breaker and a second person. Do you have any suggestions? Thanks.

Roger

Here's the picture I wish I'd had in advance. This is the timing chain tensioner, and I could not figure out how to get it to release. In the end I just removed the bolts, and it fell out, no harm, but that's not how I like to do things. The manual says "insert a drift to hold it" but doesn't give e...

abscate - will do. VIDA is pretty good about calling out the fasteners, but I'll add detail as I go along, especially where I wish I knew what it was before diving in. As of yesterday, I'm so close to getting it all apart. The timing chain is out, the cams are out, and the head bolts are TIGHT! It's...

One of my takeaways is that I'm happy about how clean it is inside the heads and timing cover. Sure, there's some discoloration, but almost no sludge buildup anywhere. I've been running regular dino oil, (no synthetic,) and changing it every 3,333 miles. This strategy seems to be working nicely. Roger

I'm elbows deep in replacing the balance shaft on my 2005 V8. I'm planning to write it up in a nice summary for MVS, but meanwhile, I thought I'd share along the way. I'm still tearing it down. I've been compiling a parts list, but haven't ordered anything yet, waiting until I confirm it's the balan...

Which engine on your XC90? When you talk about "...took all 8 out and plugged them back in..." it suggests a V8, but the Volvo V8 has individual coil packs, no plug wires, so it's a little ambiguous. Plus, you included a link to a Chevrolet Silverado, which suggests you have a Chevy, not a Volvo. An...

Adding another data point, I have VIDA running on a regular Windows 10 laptop. It was a little fussy to get installed and running, and sometimes Microsoft pushes an update that breaks it, but that hasn't happened in a while, and it's been pretty stable. I also have a DiCE which I use with a regular ...

That's awesome! I'm glad we were able to help!

Roger

I'm not sure about the numbers on the camshaft... But some things you can check... How is the compression? Low compression across all cylinders would support a mis-timed intake or exhaust camshaft. You can probably rotate the engine by hand and watch the valves to make sure it's at least basically c...

When I've had "clatter" type noises from the front end, especially going over bumps, it has more often than not been the sway bar (aka anti roll bar) end links connecting the anti roll bar to the strut.

Engine s/n is very early, #0266, so definitely within the range. I'm pretty well versed in the concept of this failure, and have not washed the engine since I've owned it (6 years, 70k miles), so I thought by now I was in the clear. Alas, not so. Since the engine was running smoothly (albeit with th...

Today my 2005 XC90 V8 (143k miles) came home making this noise: https://youtu.be/NE_tUgRKpZs I fear it's the balance shaft. It seems to be coming from right under the intake plenum, and seems to be what I imagine it would sound like if the bearing had failed and the back of the shaft is whipping aro...

To me, those compressions sound low. Although I think I also read that the gauge used is known to read low, so maybe not so much. Still, I've seen a timing belt slip a tooth or two before, especially when being inundated with snow, which I think was the original incident. So, it might be worthwhile ...

I had a similar issue where the cable failed on my drivers door. I replaced the lock mechanism, too, but in retrospect it would have been fine to just replace the cable.

Nice photos!

I use Mobil 3309 for mine. The best place I've found to buy it is Summit Racing. They have it in quarts, as well as a case of 6.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mob-123062/overview/
Amazon also has it, but Summit has a better price.

Roger

Do you know the spec of the Amsoil that you put in? If it meets the JWS-3309 spec, then I would not be too suspicious. On the other hand, if it's a Dexron equivalent, you should definitely change it.

--Interior-- - I have pretty much every interior/trim part you can think of - -850 dashboard (x2). -850 front black leather seats. -850 calipers -850 (possibly x70) brake booster & master cylinder. Hi there, I'm mainly interested in the 850 seats. Do you know the color code, and what is the conditi...

What's the rest of the car like? If it's nice, and you like it, then I'd fix it. Since you didn't mention them, I'm guessing the bottom end and transmission are fine, so removing the head and doing a valve job are the likely fix. For what it's worth, my 850 has essentially the same engine, and it's ...

IMG_20180607_141759.jpgIMG_20180607_141805.jpg I think you need to enable IE Hosting. SOLUTION: Locate on your VIDA DVD the directory D:\Install\Utils (substitute D: for your actual VIDA DVD location) and the file "EnableIEHostingx64.reg" and merge it with the registry by double clicking on it and ...

I second the referral to Xemodex. I have not needed to use them (yet), but have heard a lot of good, positive feedback about them that they will be the first people I call when I do need help with any of my modules!

Roger

To add, (or repeat) what others have said... The first number (0W or 5W or 10W) is the cold viscosity. W is for Winter. If you think you're going to see very cold temperatures before the next oil change, then worry about it, otherwise probably not. The second number is the viscosity at a fixed highe...

So now it's running great? Awesome! Some thoughts as I read through your posts... - It definitely sounded like a pretty major air leak somewhere, so I'm glad you found some hoses amiss. - Search for "Lawnmower Syndrome". It's a real thing, and it sounds like with the hard starting and rough running ...

I agree - I would test both the old and the new with an ohm-meter, and see if they are producing reasonable readings or not. This could be a failing sensor, but can also be a wiring issue, or a grounding issue, or a CEM/DIM issue. The more you can explicitly test, the better off you are.

Roger

If you can, it's sometimes helpful to pressurize the system cold to help track down leaks. I have a little hose section that has a Schrader valve and a gauge, and I put it in the line by the coolant reservoir, then pressurize to ~10psi or so with compressed air. When it's hot, the coolant can come o...

I would agree with a bushing failing somewhere. Most recently I ran into this with my 850, when my strut-top bushing was failing. You mentioned your struts were done - did they replace the top bearings? There's both the spring seat (which was probably replaced) and the bearing (which may not have be...

What did your pressure come up to when you turned the key to II? In your test data above, it looks like maybe 38psig? That might be a little low, and might be contributing. Converting more precisely, 300kPa would be 43.5psig, so at 38 you are at ~90% of where you ought to be. That would cause it to ...

According to VIDA, the pressure should be 300 kPA (~45psig). For residual pressure it should not drop below 200 kPa (~30psig) in less than 20 minutes. Technically, you are out of spec by ~2psig. From a practical perspective, if you were telling me you were having trouble with hot start and vapor loc...

I don't think that leakdown rate is your problem. It's reasonably slow. Keep in mind that the real reason for the check valve and keeping the system pressurized is to prevent vapor lock on a hot summer day when the car was just shut off. (It can get really hot under there, and fuel in the lines woul...

That's pretty consistent with what I see on my 850 and XC90. If everything else is looking good then I would consider it normal.

Roger

Did you receive and install your replacement controller yet? Looking at the screenshots you uploaded, and especially at the one with the graph... In that one it looks like everything is running as it should - fuel pressure is maintaining a constant value, ECU signal to the fuel pump controller is es...

Not that I want to give you more things to randomly replace, but... I've seen old ignition systems lead to hard starting issues. Plugs, wires, cap, and rotor should all be replaced regularly to keep things running right. I also found that I had a fair number of "pathetic start" issues as the coil go...

Good stuff! Adding some additional data to this useful thread: The main reason you have a check valve and want to keep the fuel pressure up is due to hot start issues. In a fuel injection system, in the summer when it can get really hot, and you park your hot car in the sun, the fuel in the fuel sup...

I've also used Yelp to look for recommendations. A large number of positive reviews is a good sign. I read them, too - even the bad ones. Some of the bad ones are valid, and some are what I call "stupid whiny stuff". Read them also, so you can make up your own mind. I've avoided places that have a l...

I'd love to know how they Tested it and confirmed it "Work's Prefect"!? Anyway, that sounds like a good deal, and I hope it works for you! Keep us posted!

Roger

I have to do the motor mounts on my 2005 XC90 V8, and I will be sticking with the official Volvo motor mounts. I've had sufficient trouble with non-Volvo parts, that when it comes to something I don't want to do again in short order (because the part failed), I buy the Volvo one. Besides, if you buy...

I think that it does use the fuel pressure sensor for closed loop control of the fuel pressure, but when it detects a significant discrepancy, it falls back to open loop control and disregards the pressure sensor. I think my problem is the pressure sensor, so mine still runs pretty well open loop, w...

I heard your video - I'm still trying to decide if I'm concerned by it, but I don't think it's the cause of your issue. I'll have to listen to mine and see if I hear the same sound. You indicate that the "FUEL PUMP/ LEVEL SENDER replaced 6 months ago by previous owner" - is this the in-tank level se...

It could be a lot of things, and not necessarily related. The fuel smell could be due to an issue with the EVAP system, but that would not necessarily cause a no-start. It could be fuel pump, or it could be a sensors, or it could be a split or tear in an air hose or a hose came off (which would caus...

It could be a lot of things. Is there any chance you can scan the codes and see what the ECU thinks it's problem is? That's always helpful and a good place to start.

Roger

I'm not so sure it's that important to stick with the same brand. Most of the rooftop boxes have a pretty generic claw that will grab on to just about any load bars. I bought mine from the dealer - the "Volvo" brand one is actually made by Thule, and is exactly the same but with a different name on ...

THIS is the thread I was looking for. I did this and it was the fix for my '95 850T.

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthre ... 192&page=5

Good luck!

Roger

Here is a good overview of the system:
https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/tech/servi ... ontrol.pdf

The 1-4-2 DTC goes along with the 1-4-1. It looks at both the brake light and the brake pedal position sensor, and turns on this DTC if there's a mismatch between the two. My bet: The 2-1-3 and 2-1-4 are old, from when you were doing some maintenance on the car at some point. The issue you have is t...

For the 1-4-1 error, this is the little switch that's mounted in the brake booster. The solder joints fail and become intermittent. This is repairable by removing, disassembling the switch, re-soldering the connector to the circuit board, reassemble, and replace. I found a good writeup somewhere, I'...

Have you tried clearing the codes and waiting to see what comes back? If you have never cleared them, then they could be old to very old, and meaningless at this point. I would clear and see what comes back, and THEN start diving into replacing parts. Here is some info from VIDA: DTC information 1-2...

If you're suspecting your CEM and DIM, the guys at Xemodex have good solutions and can repair most of them. http://www.xemodex.com/ You might check out their web site and compare it against your symptoms.

Roger

I would look in two places. First, some of the big air hoses can fail, especially if you have a lot of miles and your turbo is leaking some oil into the intake system. I would feel all around them, and check that they feel firm (not squishy) and don't have any tears or holes. Second, I would check o...

When Prestone was $7.99/gallon I would use it. These days, I find that Prestone is closer to $15/gal, and I can buy the Volvo brand for $20/gal. For that amount, and how often I need to change it, the difference is trivial. Also, I have had some corrosion issues in the past, using off-brand (cheap) ...

If I tried driving with no plates, I know karma would smack me and send multiple cops to my intended path...

Welcome to the club!

Roger

I think for the programming, you may need to go to a dealer; that's one thing that you cannot do with a copy of VIDA. (They do that for theft-deterrence reasons.)

Roger

It would be helpful if you had VIDA, as the generic P0101 can be either Volvo's "ECM-1210 Mas air flow (MAF) sensor - Flow Too High" or ECM-121B Mass air flow (MAF) sensor - Flow too low". In both cases, the ECM calculates how much the airflow ought to be, then it sets the code if the actual measure...

Ideally you would get a copy of VIDA, Vehicle Information and Diagnostic for Aftersales. It's software that runs on your computer, and has all of the parts diagrams, and factory service instructions and all of the procedures that the shop would use. (It IS what the shop used.) You should be able to ...

I'm glad you got it out! I think I would have a hard time stuffing a second one down the tube with the first one in there.

Roger

I've never tried the positive only, but have gotten it to start running the ground only . But it still doesn't turn over full speed. Problem with a ground issue is that could be anywhere right? Not just on the cable from battery to front. so then the trick becomes finding it. This is important - I ...

That camshaft sprocket movement looks to me like what I would expect with the VVT cams. I would re-assemble, following the manual very carefully to get the cams timed correctly, and turning over by hand very carefully to make sure you don't have any interference, and check the compression. Hopefully...

Did you get any check engine light at all? I'd look around for any hole or tear in any of the induction piping (rubber air hoses). It might be that as the turbo spools up, it starts blowing air out a hole, and since that would be after the air mass meter, you would lose air but get the fuel for that...

Yeah, I'll have to get a new gear. I think it will take some serious pounding to get THAT one back on. I don't see how it could have moved either way. And it did not loosen up as it came off. It was a pain and took full pulling pressure all the way to the end release! It may be that it was difficul...

Yep, that's exactly the same as what I had. I was fortunate that the gear wore and the crankshaft did not, so I could replace the gear and have it work. (And it was still available!) Interesting note - my crank bolt was on super-tight too. (I always figured that it was someone trying to patch a fix ...

Any weird lights/messages when this happened? I just went through an ordeal where the crankshaft bolt was not tightened down properly. Over time, the splines on the inside of the crank gear wore down , to the point that I had poor compression, and the slop in the crank gear caused the cam timing to...

I would take a VERY close look at the timing belt, specifically at the gear on the crankshaft. The cam sensor codes are set either for a "no signal" (i.e. bad sensor), or "signal too far out of range" - i.e. the sensor is too far out of the time from the crank sensor. 20k on the timing belt is a lit...

I always figure that if it's running, driveable, and no significant body issues, it's worth $1000. Beyond that, it comes down to rust, records, how pretty it looks, how's the interior, how soon you need to sell it, and whether you can happen to find the right buyer. These days I live in a state wher...

Looking at your numbers, I agree with RickHaleParker that something is not right, probably in the positive cable from the battery to the jump post. The V8 draws a pretty high current when starting, and wherever the problem is, it's causing that extra 2.1 to 2.2 volt drop. It looks like the cable is ...

Hi Matt, What engine do you have? Looking through the manual (VIDA), it looks like in general, the pulley un-bolts, but with some variation how it un-bolts, and the corresponding tools required. Volvo has a collection of special tools available, and some have just torx or twelve-point internal socke...

I have used Crutchfield for years, and have always been very happy with them. I tend to not buy speakers from them, but through no fault of theirs - I want to listen to the speakers first. I've bought multiple radios from them, and will very likely buy my next radio from them also. For your 850, the...

You might look at the transmission fluid. At 170k, it ought to have been changed, but it might not have been done. (Even in a well maintained car, a lot of people don't think about it.) If you decide to buy it, the first thing I would do is a complete fluid replacement. Some people would accuse me o...

I agree those are all pretty good! You have a pretty small deviation, but not something that I would tend to worry about. (If one were down more like 120 then I would worry.) Write them down, and check again in another 10k miles if you want to track it.

Roger

I've had Pilkington glass before, with no issues. Whenever I have needed to replace glass, I have usually had a choice of standard or OEM (or was it Factory?) I have always paid extra for the OEM and not been disappointed. The other choice I have sometimes had is "with or without the tint strip" - t...

Following up on this, I seem to have this issue fixed. The sensor is very sensitive. It will indicate yellow when the dipstick is in the middle of the range, and red when the dipstick is towards the low end of the range. I seem to have fixed by adding oil until the level was right at the very top of...

There was a change in production. Check your chassis number (last 6 digits of your VIN number.) Up to #239999 it uses part number 9202134, which has the cable attached. (I think this is what you have on the car.) https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-camshaft-position-sensor-rear-of-exhaust-camshaf...

I would get the clips #18. p/n 1202841, superceded by 30624275, looks like FCP has them for $2.29. They are cheap and you need them to hold the front up. Don't forget the 2x #30, the bolts at the sides. It's a flange screw, pn 985743 that Volvo lists at $2.67 each. I don't know about the louver #32....

I had the same issue with Meyle control arm bushings going bad in the second year after replacing them. I now have Lemforder bushings pressed in. How are the Lemforder ones working out for you? I'm just about to replace Meyle with Lemforder on my 850, after swearing I would only put on Volvo. I'm h...

Thanks for posting the solution. I just saw your videos - I am AMAZED at how much play there was in those bushings! It has MUCH more than I was expecting! It makes me want to replace mine with solid bushings! Is there any chance you can shoot another video with the new control arms? I'm really curio...

I just went through the "loose crankshaft pulley" on a V70, and this is sounding familiar. 2 years is a long time, but who knows? Anyway, I would pull off the accessory belt, and the timing belt, and then the crank nut and check that the splines on the inside of the gear were ok. Mine were bad - I e...

Maintenance aside, it does seem suspicious that it started misfiring after this work. I think the "System too rich" code is a result of all the misfires. With the Evap code as well as the misfires, I am thinking that a lot of extra air is getting in there. I think an air hose is not on right, not ti...

You should be able to get over 13.5V at idle. (Probably closer to 14.) I would put a load on it (lights on, AC on, blower on, rear defrost on,) then test in the following order: Basic alternator check 1. Check voltage between alternator case and B+ terminal (basic alternator check.) Should be 14 to ...

I think when I ran into this, I had to replace the solenoid valve that's mounted on the radiator, between the canister and the intake vacuum.

Roger

I would second the vacuum leak. I just found one on mine - one of the hoses was slipping off in a hidden spot. I'd also check all the little vacuum elbows - they can fail and are kind of hidden. You didn't say - is it just dying at high load and at idle? How does it do driving down the road? Or will...

Here is a picture of one that failed on me, for reference. (Yes, you can see which brand failed after 15k miles, if you look closely...)

Roger

When you step on the brakes, the bushings in the lower control arms have to absorb the force of the braking vehicle. If it's the control arm bushing, then I am guessing probably the left wheel is slightly turning out as the bushings compress (or give up), causing the car to head to the left with no ...

I put in Castrol that I buy cheap at Wal-Mart, and change it every 3,333 miles. I put in Chevron oil for years, until Costco stopped carrying it. 1. I have seen a lot of engines build up a lot of sludge with a 7500 mile oil change interval. I seem to do well changing it more often. 2. 3,333 miles is...

I received a "Low Oil Level" message in the DIM. Continuously. At next oil change, I pulled the sensor and cleaned it, and put it back. Error message remains. Researched, and it seems that occasionally these sensors fail, and they are not fixable. So, I ordered up another sensor (at $200). Oil chang...

I looked through VIDA and some other online resources, and saw that Volvo put a single-piston slide-pin caliper on some 850's in 1997. Most were the dual piston, but I see the listing for the single piston if I look hard. (May have been 1997 AWD only for 850's? Volvo p/n 9140394) Same caliper was us...

ATE has been putting brakes on Volvos for years - I know for certain they were on my (multiple) 240's, my 850's, and others. I have no issues with the brand - they have never caused me any problems. For your installation, it would all be based on the condition of the calipers you obtained, which sou...

Hi Adam, The bushing you looked at are the "usual culprit", but from the photos, yours don't look that bad. There are also the bushings at the back of the control arm (bolt is vertical, not horizontal) that can also fail - worth inspecting. My XC90 is also doing the same thing, and I haven't yet fig...

Per jimmy57's comments, my wife and I mess each other up all the time because we don't lock the car in the garage. You'd think there would be a better way. Anyway, while I can't tell you exactly what's wrong, I went through a similar diagnostic on my XC90 recently, and can give you a little more inf...

I agree, it sounds like something moved. I am dealing with the aftermath from someone doing that, in my case they forgot to tighten the crankshaft nut, and eventually the crank timing gear wore and moved. It was a bear to find. As much of a pain as it is, I would meticulously check everything. Maybe...

There are a couple of videos on YouTube. It gets a little more complicated if you have the Variable Valve Timing (VVT) - some Volvos have it on the intake, some on the exhaust, and some on both. But it's still pretty straightforward. If you want to be really meticulous about it, you can buy the tool...

It runs! Hooray! Although I also figured out that the alternator appears to be dead. The red light stays on, and the DIM gives a message that the Electrical System Requires Service. And the voltage doesn't come up, the car runs off the battery and the voltage drops down towards 11V. Chances are that...

I put on the new crank pulley tonight, and I think I got really lucky. The compression has come up from 95 across the board to 175-182 on all 5 cylinders, and with all the cranking I did with the compression test, I did not get the "cam sensor" ECM code once. Hooray! With compression like that, I th...

In general my rule is "if I might want to take it apart again, then use anti-seize". (Yes, I grew up in the rust belt.) That said, now I'm trying to think of exceptions. I also clean threads with a brass wire brush, and religiously use a torque wrench for reassembling, so anti-seize as a little thre...

It looks like it was very loose, and they ran it, for a while. Then it started giving "Cam Sensor" error codes, and stopped running. Whoever worked on it rectified their mistake by torqueing it to such a high value, it took 200# on a 5' cheater bar to get it off. That might have worked if they had g...

So I think I found the issue. I didn't want to pull the head (yet) because bent valves didn't seem to be the full issue. They would make sense for the low compression (maybe), but not the cam sensor issue. Also, when I read reports of people bending valves, they generally seem to get "no compression...

Compression is low across all five cylinders, at ~95psi. Nevermind the CANbus issue and the JBWeld on the crank sensor, I think I need to address the compression first. Using a borescope, I can see on all 5 pistons where it looks like the exhaust valves have hit the pistons. I see two matching shiny...

So the cam timing was actually just about right. When I locked the cams with the tool, and rotated the exhaust VVT hub forward/clockwise, there was only a fraction of a tooth to the limit. I snugged it up tight to the limit by loosening the 3 adjustment screws between the hub and the gear, I'd say I...

It sounds like you have a generic scan tool. 0342 would infer the sensor's signal is to low, or not strong enough. The signal is low enough to be vague and difficult to interpret. Or signal line shorted to ground. Other cam issues can also cause this - like if there was a timing belt issue (slipped ...

Hi alschnertz,

I might be interested in your 850. I am in need of another vehicle at the moment, and another '95 854T might be a good thing. I sent you a message, but figured I'd leave a post here in case that didn't get through.

Cheers!

Roger

Another source for dealer parts is http://www.volvopartswebstore.com. They are a dealer in Chicago, but they have great prices, and the parts diagrams online, too, so you can look at what you are ordering. (I just looked and found your control arms for $170 each.) Not cheap, but I have had too many ...

I am running VIDA with IE11. If you haven't done it yet, try running with compatibility mode. Sometimes updates will clear out the list of compatibility mode sites and you have to add it back.

Roger

I found a deal on a "not running" 2002 V70 T5. The rest of the car seemed pretty nice, so I bought it. I've tried the easy things, and it's still not going, so I figured I'd start writing about it. Suggestions are welcome! About the car: 154k miles, generally good condition. FWD. The car has VVT on ...

The only LCA's I seem to have luck with is Genuine Volvo. Every other one I put on, even the ones reported to be HD (with the long spiel about better rubber in the bushings etc.) seem to fail in less than 20k miles. I know I can buy through FCP and get their lifetime warranty, but truth I have other...

Glad you got it! I find as long as the wheel spins freely, the parking brake isn't an issue. You didn't say if it was not budging at all, or if it moved a bit and then got stuck. Either way, I have ended up hitting it with a hammer to dislodge it. Sometimes using the two=hammer method on the "top of...

Sold. Thanks.

Roger

Your CL ad has expired. Maybe add some of the details here if it's still available?

Roger

Or, to directly address your question, there are two sure fire ways to check:
1. Measure what's there.
2. Find the part number on what's there.

Roger

I found a reference somewhere that indicated they were matched to the wheel size that originally came on the vehicle. (Don't consider it gospel, but more of a guideline, as it will be incorrect if wheels have been changed.) FRONT: 18" wheels => 336mm rotors (13.228") OEM 30657301 17" wheels => 328mm...

Just a note on the clutch gap... There's a failure mode where the gap gets bigger, and eventually too wide for the clutch to pull in reliably. It gets worse with heat, so it fails on the hottest day when you need it most. This is where the infamous "bread clip" fix comes in, where people use plastic...

I agree, sounds like the PNP switch. I seem to get ~125k to ~140k out of them before needing replacement.

Roger

My daughter got run off the road in the S80. She's fine, but the body is banged up to where it's not worth repairing. Air bags did not go off. So I'm offering parts before I send it off to the crusher in a week or three. I bought the car just a few months ago, it really was "little old lady driven"....

I have a 2005 V8, and I'm very happy with it. And yes, I have one of the "at risk" earlier ones. It's not a big deal if you understand the issue. The issue is that some people like to wash their engine. Water collects at the back end of the balance shaft, and doesn't drain, so after you wash your en...

What condition are the seats in? And what color?

Roger

I just run regular all-season on my XC90. Haven't had any issues, but not a hard snow driver, either. I have a set of Blizzaks for my 850, and when I lived in Seattle, I would use them when the snow occasionally came. I have actually had much more use out of the set of Spike Spiders I bought for the...

Also... I use eEuroparts.com for half of my parts. (Don't forget to put in the code for MVS discount.) And www.volvopartswebstore.com is a Volvo dealer in Chicago that I've always received great prices and service from.

Roger

What was the issue with your original radio? FYI, the actual radio is located in the roof, back by the tailgate. The radio is then connected to the control head, the CD changer, and the amplifier by a fiber optic network. It's called the MOST network, which stands for "Media Oriented Systems Transpo...

We are also the only ones to my knowledge that didn't get their superb diesel engines. I had a diesel 240. One of the very last ones, an '84 with a few mods that Volvo put into the '85 740s. It wasn't superb. It was the slowest thing ever on the road, and belched out huge clouds of black smoke. It ...

Seats. IPD used to carry replacement foam for the 240's. I'd love to do a seat rebuild on my 850, but what comes out of the junkyard isn't much better. Seat skins, too. I'd pay a fair amount for OEM leather seat skins to make the car look fresh again. And interior plastic, I'll definitely second tha...

I have a V8 and I'm pretty happy with it! Pros: Lots of power! And pretty reasonable fuel economy if you try. Love the sound! I haven't towed much with it, but when I have it's definitely been up to the task. It seems to be a pretty solid engine with no major flaws. (Save one, see below.) I *LOVE* h...

I remember when I bought them, they were a pretty "high end" product. These days they seem to be pretty cheap. Part of me wants to replace them for peace of mind, and part of me fears taking off a quality part (albeit used) and replacing it with a new, inferior one. I've been burned with inferior pa...

I think they both have the potential to be fun cars! At this point, it all comes down to condition. Interior, exterior, driveline, and care along the way. Either could be awesome or either could be a junk pile. I'd avoid rust if possible, because I can manage or deal with everything else. I'd look a...

On my '95 850 Turbo Sedan, I have a set of braided stainless steel brake lines that have been installed for ~12 years and ~150k miles. If they were the regular rubber lines I'd be thinking about replacing them due to age. I'm pondering if I should do the same for these, or if they will last for a lo...

I too would have guessed the control arm bolt. It's too short to be the strut, and it's not the ball joint. Or the steering rack... Or the top of the strut. I would check the control arms on both sides, make sure all three (six) bolts are accounted for.

Roger

Following... Please let us know what you find!

Roger

I also agree on changing the fluid. On my '05 V8 with the TF80SC, I ended up with a Volvo replacement transmission at ~90k or so. It had the valve body issue. I wonder if changing the fluid would have made a difference or not, however I don't think it would have done any harm. If you do a full chang...

I would agree, likely sloppy filling. Also, the rubber gasket in the filler cap gets dry and brittle; replacements are cheap (under $1 if you buy carefully,) I just replace them every 3rd oil change. I'd clean it, replace the gasket, and see if the issue comes back.

Roger

Any chance you have access to a VIDA/DiCE to read out the stored codes? I am not sure what the 7x flash on the CEL means, (or if it's significant,) but if you can read out the trouble code that is actually set and causing the CEL, it would be helpful for you.

Replacing the switch sounds like a likely solution. The switch is just an input to the Driver Information Module (DIM), which is the computer that is really responsible for what shows up in the display. Since your DIM is properly displaying other messages, it does sound like the switch may be the is...

Hi Josh, It's pretty straightforward to remove: - Ignition Off - Remove the upper and lower steering column cover (3 screws from underneath). You may need to manipulate the column tilt to move it into a position where the parts of the cover just slide out, but they will eventually do that and slide ...

Wow, that's quite an ordeal! I'm glad you were able to get it in the end though.

Roger

I would consider them to be two completely different parts. Thus, I think some of the part description writers are a little inaccurate. Fuel Pressure Sensor - measures the pressure of the gasoline in the fuel system, probably at the fuel rail that feeds the injectors. MAP Sensor = Manifold Absolute ...

Can you measure the fuel pressure independently? I know that with VIDA plugged in, I can see what my fuel pressure is. On my 850 and S80 there's a fitting on the fuel rail where I can connect a gauge. (I would think there would be a similar one on the V8, but I haven't had to measure that yet, so I ...

It's in the electrical switch. I replaced mine for that very reason. (I could manage to turn the key all the way back to Position II for "run", but not everyone in the family could master that, and someone had some scarey rides home with no lights...) It's a pretty straightforward replacement, too. ...

I would also inspect the control arms before you start. I have had them fail very quickly before, in less than 15k miles. If you are starting to feel sloppy, then something has failed and it would be good to id first.

Roger

Its important to remember that everything goes through the CEM. When you toggle the turn stalk, it sends a signal to the CEM via the CAN Bus to turn on the signal, and the CEM actually energizes the circuit. If the flashers work but not the turn signal, then it sounds like it's the input side (turn ...

Does it come from down by the pump? Or near the top? Mine has an air vent that goes up next to the filler cap, which I think this looks like, although I'll need to check to be sure.

Roger

I looked through the procedure, and it doesn't say anything special to do to avoid the frame rails. Just remove the upper torque rod, one wire, and what looks like a power steering pipe. Don't know if that's helpful or not...

Roger

There's a solenoid that engages or disengages the lock on the door. On my 850 it cycles every time I lock/unlock the car. On my newer cars it just unlocks when I press the button, then locks again at the next lock cycle. (Much less wear on it.) Your issue could be a bad fuse, or a sticking / failed ...

The catalyst efficiency trouble code is set when the rear O2 deivates too much from the front one. VIDA lists possible sources as: - Misfiring - Air leakage in the intake system - Air leakage in the exhaust system - Faulty fuel pressure - Uneven Compression - Defective three-way catalytic converter ...

The interesting thing about this generation of car is that it all goes through the Central Electronics Module (CEM). The turn signal switch sends a signal to the CEM, which then activates a relay to turn on the turn signal lights. It's kind of esoteric, but it also makes it testable if you have VIDA...

I just bought a 2003 S80... Not quite as exciting as I was hoping for, but the price was right... (Local Ford dealer took it in on trade, and offered it on Craigslist as-is, essentially at wholesale...) I couldn't pass it up!

Hi Everyone, I'm looking for another Volvo. Want to keep the cost to $2000 - $2500. (Less is ok.) Need another car to drive while I'm working on the others. (And let the kid drive when I'm not using it.) Cars I'm considering: V70, either late 90's or 2003-4 C70 940/960, B230FT or 6 cyl whiteblock Tu...

How many miles were on the idler bearing that failed? I did mine with the timing belt on schedule, at 105k (I think), and they felt ok. Wondering if you went farther on them, or if it was more dependent on the environment or something.

Roger

I put on a set of Continental LX-20's. Very happy with them so far, had them a little over a year. Better then than the Falken's that the dealer put on when I bought it (used). Even my wife says the Continentals feel better on the road.

Please do keep us posted and include lots of pictures. Thanks!

Roger

Hi Matt, this is useful info, thanks for posting. To recap, your original info was "Misfire on #3". Is that the coil that you ended up finally replacing to fix the issue? Sounds like it was, but wanted to confirm. Thanks!

Roger

I've been told the same thing. Things to know:
1. They are typically in the UK, measuring fuel in Imperial Gallons, not US Gallons. Imperial gallons are ~20% bigger.
2. They are typically diesel
Which is why I'm happy when I drive on the freeway and get 28 MPG in my US V8!

I agree to stay away from the early T6 models, but they had the 2.9l 6 cylinder (not 3.2). This is primarily due to transmission issues. The 2.5l turbo is generally pretty solid, and many consider it the best one. The V8 is good also. The major flaw is that if you have a 2005, and you wash the engin...

You're looking for the "Product Plate", which is typically attached inside the engine bay, on the left hand side. It looks like this: Volvo Product Plate.pdf The "Chassis Code" is in location "H". Here's mine (with part of the VIN blocked out for privacy): Volvo Product Plate XC90.jpg Thus, my chass...

What happens to the lights when you try and start it? Do they get dim, or not even come on? Did you try cranking for a while when it ran out and wore the battery down? If yes, that sounds like a dead battery which you'll need to rectify (charge or replace). How do you know you now have fuel flowing ...

Sounds like an interesting problem! I am aware of two different ways to install an AUX input. As you know, the entire system works on the MOST network. The ICM is both the master of the MOST network, as well as a node on LS CAN. If you have the phone module, it too is on both MOST and LS CAN. Everyt...

The brakes are pretty straightforward to check - after a drive, put your hand near and see how hot they feel. (But be careful not to touch - in case it is very hot!) Somewhat hot is normal. Extremely hot is not normal and may indicate an issue. You might try swapping the coils to different locations...

Sounds like your prior-owner did a poor job of changing the oil on time! I run dino oil, but I change it often, (every 3333 miles,) and don't have any trouble with it. I think you're doing the right thing, flushing and changing the filter as needed. I can't decide if I would do some sort of a chemic...

Some vehicles have electronic fuel pressure regulation - it reads the pressure, and changes the voltage to the pump to speed up or slow down the pump accordingly. If you have VIDA, perhaps it would help to watch these signals. Maybe have someone else drive while you watch them with fuel pressure and...

I did the RMS on my '95 850T the same way you describe - support the engine from the top, and lower the subframe. It's helpful that your support for the engine be able to lower a few inches. I made a support bar out of a 4x4, but I've since upgraded to an engine support bar from Harbor Freight tools...

Looking around, this can also be caused by intake air leaks, especially at idle. Maybe give it a good inspection and see if there are any leaks, holes, failed vacuum elbows, etc. Also, thinking about it, the O2 sensors would set the code, but not cause the other driveability issues you mentioned, so...

So those codes seem to be: P2178: Long Term Fuel Trim Upper Limit P2180: Long Term Fuel Trim, Bank 2 - Upper Limit P2190: Long Term Fuel Trim, Bank 2 - Lower Limit If you enter the codes into the search bar at the top, you can find a couple of threads dealing with this: http://www.matthewsvolvosite....

What was the issue with the fuel pressure sensor? I would expect a fuel pressure sensor issue to affect all injectors similarly. How long have the plugs been in? Mine had a 75k service interval, I changed them at about 80k. If it's near due, probably wouldn't hurt to change them. Any chance oil coul...

I highly recommend reading the codes before just replacing random parts. See what the ECU thinks is the problem first! You don't necessarily need to take it to a dealer. Some auto parts stores will read the codes for you. Or for ~$100 you can get your own scan tool. Volvo uses a program / interface ...

I heard about this issue with the 4.4L engine and am trying to get ahead of the issue. Purchased new idler pulleys and tensioner unit and would like to know if anyone had the torque specifications for both of these. I have a 2006 XC90 and the repair looks relatively simple from an access perspectiv...

The good news is, the fan module is OK... :| Sourcing parts for head gasket change and top-end rebuild :cry: Guess I get to buy a valve spring compressor and maybe a cam locking tool kit :lol: And I can replace my turbo drain and return lines/O-rings, fix vacuum lines........... So the conclusion w...

I have one more data point for you - today I had VIDA/DiCE hooked up to my 2005 V8, so I tracked the throttle position and engine speed while I started it. The throttle position was at ~11% for the first minute while it warmed up, then dropped to ~5.5% to ~6.0% and stayed there while it idled at ~71...

Bread clip trick should not be applicable as this compressor does not cycle so clutch wear is nil. V8 was first Volvo with variable displacement compressor. The compressor has a variable stroke that is regulated by a solenoid that controls crankcase pressure. The evaporator temp probe is read by Cl...

I agree with abscate. If the compressor comes on when you jumper the relay, then the clutch gap is NOT your problem. (It may be that it's worn, and will need addressing at some point, but that's not the issue today.) I think you also said you swapped the relay, no difference. So, the question is why...

Regarding vacuum hose clamps, I found this in the Starter Motor replacement procedure, where you have to pull the hoses all out for access: Installing vacuum hoses Install: - the vacuum hose to the vacuum pump; secure with the quick-action lock - the vacuum hose on the brake vacuum valve - the vacuu...

I looked pretty closely at the trouble code readouts you uploaded, and they all look pretty normal. Specifically on the low idle speed code, I see Intake air pressure at 670 hPA (= ~9" Hg vacuum) Engine speed 581rpm Short term fuel trim at 3.13%, long term fuel trim at 0% 81 seconds after engine sta...

Hi Wal, Yes, according to that plate, you have the Nivomat (expensive) shocks. BTW, they are expensive because they are self leveling. That means that however much you load into the back of your XC90, once you start moving down the road, they use the motion of the vehicle to pump themselves up so th...

I needed to shim my 850. In that case, it would work fine when I first started the car, and then it would stop working after everything got nice and hot under the hood. The theory was that as the electric coil in the AC clutch got hot, the resistance went up, the current went down, and the magnetic ...

I agree... 1. Your ball joints look correct. I looked at the amount of stem protruding from the top. I am used to them being fully seated at this point though, so I'm not sure how you could have got them in any more. However, the groove in the stem will interlock with the bolt when installed, so it'...