A bit of an update. After a half-hour drive in local traffic today, the battery was at 12.6 V. However, when I restarted the car, I was seeing 13.5-13.6V at the battery terminals. I've tested the harness drop and it's in spec. Could this mean the voltage regulator is short a diode? The voltage was r...

Voltage read by the charger was pretty consistent with my DVM. Charger is a Solar ProLogix 2310. I've only had it a few months, but happy so far. It did read 3% state of charge when it started that low!

I pulled the glovebox light a while ago just to be safe. And it draws milliamps, not the 10-12 amps needed here. I agree it kills many of these cars if it has more time to drain. The very low voltage did seem fishy--thought at first I had a shorted cell. But it would take multiple dead cells, and th...

It's a good suggestion--I was also thinking maybe a cell or two shorted. However, the symptoms are a little different than yours. Mine read 7.8 volts with the ground wire disconnected--definitely open-circuit. After charging and reconnecting (and a dozen more connection cycles looking for drain and ...

I agree. Unfortunately, it's gone. After charging the battery, the parasitic draw was about 130 mA (on a 10A range on the DVM). This fell to ~ 50 mA (forgot to write it down) after several minutes and/or cycling the key position. It jumps to 1.2A after opening the door, which is normal. I absolutely...

I was working under the car a bit this a.m.--backed it up, drove it on the ramps, drove it back off a half hour later. On a lark, I measured the battery voltage after that, which was 12.44V -- pretty typical, and it's had a series of short trips this week. Key was removed. Six hours later, car won't...

Was under the car for other reasons, and I noticed the bolt that goes through the rear left lower engine mount into the transaxle was missing. This mount is the one off the rear left fluid mount, with the bracket that sort of arcs over the drive axle. The bolt runs to the left through the bracket ju...

It's obviously a personal decision, and I'm biased because doing my own work makes it cheaper to "keep". A comparable new car (nice leather, drives well, big trunk, etc.) will easily be $300-400 per month, plus taxes and insurance. But it's new, and under warranty. A few year old used car ...

+1 on the cam seals, especially if there's oil on the turbo or on top of the transaxle. It's impressive how much they can leak. I've also had the intake one leak into the distributor and cause stalling and misfires. Avoid Elring replacements. If the oil is "on top" around the oil filler an...

It was the MAF sensor. The Genisys scan tool was no help--couldn't seem to connect to the ECU. But the clue was the high voltage on the signal line, independent of engine speed. Even with the rough running, it became clear the MAF signal on pin #4 was incorrect. So why the goose chase? Well, at leas...