Volvo help, forum + news for all models

It will drive you nuts. The chassis tag will tell you what your car has, then you go to FCP or the like, and then you get the color mark, but I haven't found enough information to rank them softest to firmest. There's Blue, Green, Yellow, Orange, White, Brown, then you have nivo and std. And for you...

So the moral of the story is, if you want one component of the drivetrain (Angle gear, propshaft, VC, Rear diff) then you gotta keep them all together. There were three iterations as Neil alluded to. Take them as sets, or make sure they match what you have.

The basic transaxles are the same for the AWD(GLT), XC, and AWD (R), it's the suspensions, and in the case of the R, the motor that differ.

Freebie; The OP stated in the thread that ALL the valves got bent. That would be due to improper timing upon install, that's why he was stressed over stem diameters of the Solid vs. Hyd lifter cars. Also, in the first few posts he only mentions changing the head gasket and bolts. I am not sure the h...

https://row52.com/Vehicle/Index/YV1LT56D7X2585552 Here's a 99 AWD in a yard. Looks like they rear-ended someone. Enough damage for insurance to total it, but light enough that I doubt the trans would be bad. You may try to get someone to pull it for you and ship . It has its risks, but possibly its ...

http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic/187147-98-00-awd-components/ a lot to digest, but empirical. lots of part number changes spelled out. along with what matches. Best bet, find a 99 XC or 99 FWD turbo. If you pick FWD, you can sell your angle gear and prop shaft. Or you could re-convert later. Thi...

So, how did it run prior to the accident? Has it basically sat for most of four years in a coma? How much run-time has it had since you started cranking it? Maybe the rings took a set and slightly bound. They could loosen up. pour a cap of seafoam in the cylinder and let it sit a day or so. Can't hu...

Doesn't follow RPM, so I would check chassis items. Does it follow vehicle speed, if you coast after it starts, does it continue, or only if you slow to a stop. I would also look at heatshields. Check the torque-strap mount under the front, and the mount at the timing belt end of the motor.

if you tap the brakes, does the car veer? that is a dead giveaway for control arm bushings, yours may not be that far out yet.

That's how those read to me also, pin and connector ids from schematic. What are you troubleshooting ( in mechanical terms)

speedo gets signal from ABS control, flaky speedo and TRACS light equals need an ABS module. See midwest ABS link.
search forum for hood bumper adjustments.

That would be entirely up to your right foot. It will allow for better airflow, but it's still limited by throttle opening.

Okay, before ANYTHING else, check when the timing belt was last changed. Absolutely critical . Then your hoses, PCV, etc...descending order of throwing away your money then the car if they fail. Spend time browsing the wonders of MVS, ask lots of questions, subscribe to Robert DIY youtube or Patreon...

you currently only have a rear fog lamp. Junkyard shopping can be therapeutic and productive for these cars, and many parts are still available, like the fog lamp holders. Also, a beauty of these cars, is that they pretty much wired all the cars for all the options, so you will have a harness alread...

I've heard and used the term "Grease Monkey" before, but I'd never actually seen one!

slickdizzy wrote: ↑Tue Sep 22, 2020 2:13 pm As it tends to be, probably a classic case of noble intentions with questionable execution...

I've never seen staked cam seals. I think I have seen this guys work on airplanes though!

Are you referring to the Intercooler, for the charge air from the turbo to the throttle body? If so, https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=ro ... &FORM=VIRE

Well, The PCV has "flow" if there is a lack of adequate vacuum, oil will go where it can, if the air rushing past from the cooling fan made enough pressure differential, it could theoretically siphon vapor from a split hose or loose fitting. more likely a bad hose just spewing. Possibly the oil cool...

Is this the car "ThatdudeinBlue" did the video on? (Blue Big turbo Volvo wagon)

abscate wrote: ↑Fri Sep 18, 2020 11:54 am I don’t have time to sit next to my manifold all night reading “Great Expectations”

Just hone the Dickens out of it?

IIRC the plenum and runners are the same. The t/b inlet is choked down, maybe for off-boost velocity? I've seen where people have bored the turbo manifold entry. Also, the 93 and some 94 manifolds were double ported with variable volume intake system (VVIS)that would be the linkage you saw, two sets...

A little Guibo judo

If it is the valve, it's a pump body change or rebuild. Or a theft-proofing device only you will know about!

Ironically, I was just browsing on another forum and found this, http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic/217790-battery-cable-clamps-cause-of-no-start/ LOL Happy belated Birthday Erik! We all just want to see you get this solved, and I'm salty because "Sally" won't let me go out and play with mine this...

That lean induced knock IS a misfire of sorts. It's an ignition event outside the normal parameters. Knock sensors detect it, ECU retards timing, and things get back to "normal", or you let up on the fun pedal and it goes away. Maybe it's time for the upgrade! Unless Aaron sends you a new flash. Did...

It may help to make yourself a chart or spreadsheet to record your findings while doing voltage tests of hot, cold, and cranking. Not just when you have a no-start. Volts at batt terminal, back-probing terminal of battery cable, starter cable terminal, back-probe starter cable terminal. drop from ba...

First OP said shop replaced PNP switch and called car good. In a later post, OP stated that the shop had replaced the connectors at the starter terminals. Sounds like they found corroded cabling. Sounds like jreed parallel is called for. Also, Misha asked "When no crank issue appears...try to start ...

418 is your paint code, and the -11 is the manufacturer and type, so you have regent red, BASF, metallic
http://www.volvotips.com/index.php/gene ... lor-codes/

Happy Birthday to all those who celebrate on Sept 14th. We all celebrate with you! And here's to many more

And this pairs well with P1 mistake 310H55A, forgetting that you didn't put thread locker on the caliper mount bolts of your XC90, then wondering what the noise and grab are in the front end at 70 on the freeway, when the caliper shifts on the rotor because a bolt backed completely out! Which leads ...

And keep in mind Americans, he's (probably!) not a pyro, what he calls a torch we call a flashlight!

I beleive I read that turbo cars and N/A cars had different length rods, is that correct?

Sounds like the cover needs to come back off and ctrl, alt, delete. As Abscate said, with the cams out, verify rotation of the crank. Then meticulously set and verify crank alignment. Clean and reseal the cover, reassemble again verifying cam alignment. Then belt up and rotate.

on my 04 XC90 T-6 the hoses/tubes NEVER looked that good! It ran like a top. changed out my coils around 170k. You got a great life out of yours, and with the obvious care your car gets, it could go Spinner miles.

Congrats on sale, glad someone was more ready, but not glad if ya know what I mean!

Since it was mounted externally, I guess you can claim it wasn't smoke(er)ed in.

These cars are pre-wired for many accessory configurations, do you mean the gray relay strip? May have nothing to do with it. Also, keep in mind, Volvo engine is not a TDC engine, you align the crank reference mark and then the cams, but the marks do not indicate TDC, they are a ways off to allow va...

Good job! Glad to hear it is working out fairly well for you. I suggest another trip to the pick and pull for a fender and liner. But that is up to your discretion of course, and to fit your needs/plans for the vehicle.

Pull the cover back off, clean it all and reseal the top, do as indicated, cinch with 4 bolt just to slowly apply pressure. Ensure cam position repeatedly during the process, apply lock tools if you have them, to keep the cams from walking. With the cam 90degrees out of phase, some of your intake va...

Caliper R&R shouldn't be that bad, you don't have to pull the rotor and mess with the drum. Pull the calipers up off the rotors, hang them on bungee cords or something, and gently work the pedal, if you can put something in between the pistons, so they won't pop all the way out of their bores great....

Cyan Racing
@Cyan_Racing
·
Oct 6, 2015
One day closer to #Bathurst1000 and another #Volvo race car that has taken on the mountain, the 850 Super Touring.


But who cares because...Race car!!!

Yes, updating to the RN style cooler setup is documented. You need the pan, the cooler, and all the lines hoses from a 99+. this includes turbo return lines I believe. Also, Robert Spinner (RSPI-Robert DIY) , has recently documented running with no cooler on his T5-R, with no detriment, on You Tube....

Wasn't me. I believe OP added it to indicate he had loaded pictures as I suggested in first reply.

go for a little ride and pull from this https://row52.com/Vehicle/Index/YV1LW5823T2221299

look for 58 as the engine code in the VIN it will start YV1L(S or W) 58*********** They are both "just" regular Turbos.

Like Chuck says, any N/A up to 98 by just swapping parts. How's Herman compression wise? Maybe just a reworked Head? Then you are looking at 93-95 N/A for port design, or up to 98 if you sacrifice VVIS, or allow port mismatch

On Abscate's car it goes to the third row seat heater

Pull them, and make sure you get the hooks they fasten to at the headliner, they are different from non-equipped cars. Look in the V70 accessories catalog on volvocarsus site.

smacknab wrote: ↑Fri Aug 21, 2020 11:04 pm

bmdubya1198 wrote: ↑Fri Aug 21, 2020 11:01 pm Hmm, I wonder if your ignition switch is going out too.

Oh Lord help me

He already has, the procedure is documented on MVS!!

That's why the average P80 is fun, great Q-ships, just cruise (fast) and draw no attention as long as you are smooth and aware.

And remember, your XC doesn't have the big nut on the Axle/Hub, it uses a bolt, probably with a rubber conical washer, much easier to deal with.

But save the heartache, just pop for the OEM stuff, Whiteblocks DO NOT tolerate overheating. don't play Coolant Roulette, as Robert calls it. The plastic quality needs to be there, and the caps do degrade, even green OEM ones. If your old one is 20 years old, how long will a new OEM cap last, 20 yea...

Okay, I found the VIN decoder at www.volvotechinfo.com to actually list trans types on some cars. I plugged in the VIN you list, and it says Auto. plugged in an easy one, US850R from Row 52, auto, threw in an S60R, it just said AWD, some random V70s, all auto. May be database driven since this s Vol...

1994 850T Wagon? Parked a couple car lengths behind Black Betty?, 2nd clue being your signature? Or does that need updating?

Axle goes in with a shove, should lock in by circlip. Use a ratchet strap and tie your now flexy strut into a stable position. Then fight it.

Unless it's in the emissions description, where in the VIN do you see automatic transmission? Are you checking VIDA or another official Volvo database, because as far as I know, the VIN doesn't differentiate that. Otherwise, we could ID these in ads or on websites without having to scour junkyards l...

Look at the website row 52 (www.row52.com) There are an XC in Lynnwood, and one in Lake Stevens just waiting for you to pull the parts. I would just unbolt the top of the strut, pop the caliper off and remove the nuts from the A-Arm (Leave the bolts back there!), next, straight up from beneath with ...

D'oh OK speed sensor signal would be sent to ABS module, sends to cluster, check module and wiring connector at module. Also could be the TCM wiring fault. Also, try rowing to clean PNP switch (search Forum)

SM rcvd, thank you, Sir

Also, if you have the tool, while the battery is out, pull your ECU and TCU, clean connectors with De-ox it or other terminal cleaner, see if that helps with that code.

Speed sensor is in the wheel hub. Behind the brake disc. Held in by a 10mm head bolt. Could be dirty, but as Ed says, most likely culprit is ABS module. Or as June asked, "Got Mice?" Pull the connector from #1 injector and check for corrosion, reseat it and see if it helps. If you can pull the injec...

Ether - I did not get running on ether, I did get an intake manifold backfire which blew off snorkel. was it just swamped with ether, or does this indicate firing with the intake valve open?

So, next step, what is the problem with the original motor, Hole in the block or a burned piston? Or maybe something less drastic that might be fixable...We're here for you.

Pull the transmission and related parts from the 850, and junk it, or sell it and use the money to fix the C70.

As you say, it may not be worth doing. It may be better for you to find another car to put your motor into. Or if the C70 is worth fixing, do the transmission swap, and get the ECU re-flashed to accept the automatic. And then do the wiring for the clutch switch and reverse lights.

A course of action that may work is to find a 96/97 turbo manual (sedan or wagon) to pick engine management pieces from. I haven't done the research for you, but if the 96 turbo cars used Motronic 4.4, then you could use the ECU, engine wiring harness and sensors maybe. As mentioned, you would not h...

Congrats, having followed posts of yours, and of course all the others, for a few years, it's good to see it gets the same kind of care as "your work vehicles". Lot's of miles, lots of work, maybe some stress relief, and a sense of pride in ownership.

Hi Ed, Mine has 128k miles. I have done a thorough drain and fill a few months back. I installed an oil cooler from a C70 that I thought would be useful for the heat and hills in CA. Not sure if that has caused anyone problems or not. You are referring to an aux trans cooler? Like Abscate said, sou...

PM sent

pics, link to ad...

The R clutch disc and cover are different from the base version. IIRC different diameter, definitely more grip

To remove the cable, using one hand, spin the throttle quadrant (pulley like thing) towards the windshield, with your other hand, guide the cable off to align with the slot in the side of the quadrant, and pop it out.

Yes the notches are offset so it only goes on one way, but it can be, and there have been numerous reports of it having been, installed incorrectly. Take it off and look at it closely. Determine which way it was intended to go, if it is really messed up, replace it. And with all this practice, you s...

Is yours a 5-speed auto?

The gauge itself just uses an input signal. Your cluster will hold the odometer info. I don't believe you will need to synch the cluster. The bulbs are in holders that plug into the back side of the cluster. And it is the face and works of the gauges you will swap. It is really simple once you open ...

and a thorough examination of ALL hoses, heater, power steering, vacuum, check wiring looms for bad spots, clean ground points. Are you pulling just the engine, or eng/trans, up or dropping subframe?

Didn't your mother teach you not to throw parts (or your shop teacher!)

Yay, persistence pays off. Glad you stuck with it and found both cures. Hope you get to enjoy your car for a while.

look on youtube or even the ebay listings. The Blue faces in some images look "almost" black, they are not as bright as the P2 R and later R-design clusters. IIRC, the data for the odometer should come from the ECU. I have my blue face gauges in reserve, just went and checked, and the odometer porti...

They both use a variation of T-3 flange. Adapters are available for T-3, T-4, other flanges, and v-clamp for K24 as well, in straight or angle flange, you can get many turbos, configured to fit your need. Check Swedespeed and Volvospeed build threads as well as the performance forum here on MVS.

A slam panel would also be known as a core support, as in supports the radiator core., at least in the traditional vernacular.

so dry readings are 100-110-150x3?

erikv11 wrote: ↑Thu Jul 30, 2020 10:55 pm Get any needed sodium-filled valve-or-two from a junkyard head, spend the money on good seals instead.

+1, only thing that changed was stem diameter, 6 vs 7 mm sometime in the conversion to RN and solid lifter period. LPT vs HPT does not matter.

We've heard from our first Volvo owner in need of help. Naturally, s/he will remain anonymous. Everybody who requests help under this program will remain anonymous . Please don't provide help with this request here . The user or I will start a proper, discrete thread for this. I'm just putting this...

If you are replacing a valve because it started to burn or chip, then it should be straightforward, If you are changing valves because they hit pistons and bent, or with excessive miles, check the stems/guides.( How much do the valves wiggle) with the springs removed and cleaned.

T4 is the physical size class of the TD04 turbos. T3 was a Garrett AiResearch series, then they came out with T4s, and have kinda been a standard by which many turbos were measured cfm wise. It's a before your time thing.

For most purposes Blue/green injectors will work interchangeably, Blues and whites are the "interchangeable" ones. Greens are bigger than both (By about 20% flow rate). yep, my bad. 310cc (orange) - 1995 T5R, 96-97 850R 350cc (white) - 98 T5 models 395cc (blue) - 99+ T5 models 465cc (green) - S60 R...

Common theory, backed by dyno claims, but I have never substantiated them, is that the N/A cams are good for 10 HP. The intake mods are all in the name of increasing airflow, reducing restrictions in the boost tract. (intake, intercooler, MAF, T/B) because more air equals more power. Consider that t...

Ironic, a YouTube video was in my recommended list today on how to remove bolts broken inside deep holes. Left hand drills, etc. You may be able to use a stud extractor on that dude. Penetrant, heat, penetrant ...

Good luck!

How bout a picture of the broken bolt, may be more doable than you are thinking

Once the motor is off, the pump stops circulating the coolant. Thermosiphoning will normally occur after that, when heated coolant moves to the recovery tank and back to the system. figure the recently-cooled-through-the-radiator coolant remaining in the hot engine passages is still expanding until ...

Also, since you are converting from XC to AWD standard height, you need to check what the different codes meant, which shocks went with which springs, and which anti-roll bars.
Check Volvospeed forums for V70XR build thread, check IPD tech tips, check Volvo parts website and VIN decoders for 98 V70

but if you are meaning to put this motor in an 850 (?) then you can upgrade the turbo to 18 or 19, need to match the flange design, straight versus angled. Look at using an ECU tuned for your application. Bigger turbo and injectors, just a flash to the ECU. You can use one from a similar year HPT 8...

Continue to check on the ECU, seems to me all US 98 Rs had 16Ts on them, went up to 18T for 99 and 19T for 00. 98 Manual Rs got the 18T but that was not over here. But I don't have an R so I can't tell you for sure.

https://www.ipdusa.com/uploads/images_p ... _17130.jpg this is a blue stripe, check your data plate (position 22) look for the character there to indicate which rear suspension parts your car uses.

Location: REAR
Brand: SACHS
Part Number: 105 828
Part Type: Shock Absorber
Comment: (Exc. Self Leveling Suspension)
Application: AWD
Qty: 2

do not appear the same, lower mount differs. this is from Sachs (ZF) website https://www.showmetheparts.com/zfservices/

Volvo Nivomat Shock Absorber - Genuine Volvo 8626027 green stripe fcp Volvo Shock Absorber - Rear (w/o Nivomat) 9492049 green stripe eeuroparts I know neither of these are Sachs, but what a quick search using the picture turned up. Yes front struts cross between (GLT) AWD and FWD. (as opposed to XCs)

but if you are meaning to put this motor in an 850 (?) then you can upgrade the turbo to 18 or 19, need to match the flange design, straight versus angled. Look at using an ECU tuned for your application. Bigger turbo and injectors, just a flash to the ECU. You can use one from a similar year HPT 85...

Another look that I think is pretty cool is a cleaned up XC bumper, with a lip from a Subaru WRX. The ones with the Tribeca looking grille.

of course, you need the V70R bumper first. Not the same as the 850R bumper.

donutV70 wrote: ↑Tue Jul 21, 2020 8:22 am Hey guys, I’ve got a 99 v70 and have been looking around for some body panels or lip kits that work well with the p80 chassis

Wondering if any has had any luck finding anything for this chassis

https://www.vivaperformance.com/front-l ... s70r-v70r/

CIK7, stick with the 13g until you do a manual swap, or some 13" wheels and stance that mother. Otherwise, you'll get gapped by Grannies in Toyota Avalons!

Also, if the car sat for a prolonged period, the grease in the CVs may have settled. Once you started driving, it got warmed up and slung/flowed to where it needs to be. Just like "square" tires do after you start driving.

Keep in mind, the ‘98 had the older black “square” logo like 850’s. ‘99-‘00 got the newer blue badge that’s a slighty different shape. Yeah, I found an older 96 version with the black badge, I think I like the newer ones, they are expensive to replace though worth it I suppose.I found a new OEM gri...

1998-2002 should be waterfall grille like 1998-2000 "other" P80s, Eggcrate was a 2003-4 thing And XCs. Note the comments about the badge. Any 1998-2000 Base, GLT, AWD, or T5 will do, or 1998-2002 C70. All over the junkyards. Find the weight, check shipping from 32547 and I'll give you one. I've got ...

+ another one. The 5/8 chisel has the perfect ramp to it. straight up underneath its a PITA to hold it and smack, and rotating about 120 degrees try again rotate try. Your initial tug probably butted the snap ring against the land in the trans housing, pushing it back in will allow the rapid motion ...

Throw the 2.3 and the M56 in the 98, use the interior, swapping skins from the 99 seats to the 98 to keep air bag functionality, then get a tune from VAST, they can set you up for your COP and VVT. Granted you wont be able to blow it up if you miscode it that way, (yeah I know, be the hero when it r...

Robert did a video on replacing the ball socket end bushings on these cables. Of course, new cables or ends would be best. If the rubber bushings are going bad, they may not Always slip, and you may occasionally find your gear.

And the reason they would be less ideal is torque. The GLT/XC Low pressure turbo spools faster to deliver low to midrange torque to get you moving. The T-5/R has a smaller displacement, lower compression ratio, and a turbo that kicks in higher, and runs higher for highway passing and top-end. Contra...

Just give me a reason to go junkin!

PM with needs in SE. Check Row 52 Barry's U-Pull it in Mobile , AL or Pick, N' Pull Talahassee Fl, if you find something, I'll try to get it

Keep in mind, that hole is only in the cam space, The PCV hose coming in should be the only pressurization this space gets. This area is NOT tied to a head gasket leak. Your coolant symptoms may be. The combustion gas test is a MUST. the only sure way to know. I drove the POS70 for three years addin...

Since we know it is just a minor leak, I suggest tapping a freeze plug or the like into it. It shouldn't have much pressure behind it. and pulling the cam cover is not a trivial matter. If you have no other reason to disturb it, I wouldn't. Then again, if you have seepage in other spots...

Now get some "Jewels" From a 2002-2004 C70, and step up. Junkyard or online. The 98-02s are notorious for flaking away.

I wonder if, the water based chrome paint I've seen on some TV shows might work on old reflectors.

I would go for whichever of the two is in better shape. The 98 S70 with N/A and stick would be the most reliable combo, and with the stick, you have more gears, and less weight than your AWD XCs, so the slight lower output won't be noticed in accelerating. The 97 GLT would be a straight across donor...

That's actually pretty darn clever. Before I started scrolling, and only saw the top half of the first picture, I was visualizing a two by four cut to jam under the dash!

OOps my bad, been out of NW for 30 years, at least I didn't think you lived in Eatonville! (I was out on the peninsula between Gig Harbor and Bremerton)

What is your destination in NC?

Put your stuff away dubya, he's comin to get you! Bet he doesn't bring a big enough trailer for that haul!

And if you go down the hill into Bothell there's a guy with a shop rich in history, and all them old swedes putting around. Check the yard in Lynnwood for parts too.

Yes there is a pilot bearing/bushing. I couldn't find it at FCPs site, but Volvo US showed it. 20$ part. 1397077. The Skandix clutch Kit should only be disc and pressure plate by the lower part number

I agree, cost to rebuild may be prohibitive for you right now. look for a good replacement engine. 2.3 or 2.4 turbo. The 2.4 can still accept the 16t with a reasonable tune. In fact, because of one-point higher static compression, it will have a slight advantage over the 2.3. 2.4 turbos might be mor...

That tool looks like it could make the job easier, but no, you don't NEED it. It can be done with normal tools. What condition was the old gear lube in? was it thick? maybe someone was nursing it along? Maybe it is just because the oil is clean and new. Do you have someone else with a manual 850 you...

So...we are on the right track. ;) Misha would these make sense to you: 1. "Coolant should not boil at temp. Thermostat is 190. 50:50 boils at 223. I’ve driven 5 hours with the cap off (by accident) and didn’t blow the motor or overheat it. " My comment: Running 5 hr without coolant pressurized?? ....

only because there aren't three types!

If no-one else, then I'll get in there tomorrow.

Rocket, If you read enough of the threads here, you will see over and over, only OEM caps (Green) only OEM bottles, they last 20 years with regular treatment. You will also see that early whiteblocks can have a leaking head gasket that only pushes combustion gas into coolant. Car will run fine, hold...

Look for an M66 trans from either a 2004-7 S60r or V70R, or a later S40/V50 T5 AWD (MT), they will be set up for the angle gear etc...

Do you have a multi-meter? or at least a test light?

Nice Work, looks GREAT! And congrats on your confidence builder. These cars are great for working on mostly. Parts are arranged so that you may have to remove something to access what you need, but it is done in a logical manner. With the guidance found here and in the plethora of videos, you can do...

They were like our Volvos, some N/A, H/P trims came with superchargers. think of them as boxy Avantis!

look at that door panel insert!

Did you just buy the Volvo on a Lark?? Sorry, had to

Steering wheel is probably large section diameter, if it's in good shape they "feel" better.

try swapping out your start relay with a known good one

can you make and post a video/audio? Recheck all your connectors. try disconnecting the leads one at a time, and see if you can determine a problem.

What size is the socket, might it be the same as an O2 sensor? That would make it too easy though.

misha wrote: ↑Sun Jun 07, 2020 3:53 pm Do you know how to properly install them?

emphasis on the word "Properly" regarding setting ride height, then tightening.

It's for the PCV system Yeah, sorry I guess that wasn't real helpful :oops: So yes, glove test first, then PCV if indicated, then I would treat that like a freeze plug, just get a big socket and drift it back in. And it is easier to pull the intake manifold, than the alternator. Here's your chance ...

I know they made a 142 don't remember a 162, but look at the tag-Zolland, a graphic designer, did some neat amazon wagon, woody stuff too!

scot850 wrote: ↑Wed Jun 03, 2020 11:35 am Same blue as the main color of my kilt!!

Neil.

and/or what lies beneath, if it's THAT cold!!!!

The color of William Wallace's facepaint? (only in the movies!!)

It's for the PCV system

Going back to a stock air box would be the option for reducing intake "noise" Using a BOV rather than a boost control valve (recirculating) can cause lagging problems upon re-accelerating or during shifts, and definitely keep in mind that boost increases low in the RPM band will cause these motors t...

They're called "Oettiker" clamps, and they are used on PEX plumbing also.(all academic!) A pair of end nippers will work to crimp them as well as any purpose made plier. But you may want to file the jaws so they don't cut the clamp. Be glad you are where you are, anywhere from Bellevue to Bothell to...

In this instance I'd clean the oil pan well and put it back on, clean passages as mentioned, nothing more. Inspect away for edification but not loosen anything or mess with the bearings. Super clean history, still low miles (212k), there is no reason to suspect the bottom end of this white block is...

Seafoam will attack carbon build-up, but it will also attack oil sludge, which is what might be all that is sealing some crustier valve seals that Robert is alluding to. Also as stated, it isn't meant to clean MAFs and Throttle bodies, there are much lighter solvents especially for that. As far as s...

Doesn't look bad for the mileage. I wouldn't worry much with the light varnish on most surfaces. If anything, I would remove the oil pickup tube and clean it as thoroughly as possible. If that means the sink with dawn and then the dishwasher, okay, A local machine shop for a quick spin in a parts-cl...

I was unaware that they made 850s with rear drums, or are you asking if you can make the discs operate the parking Brake? If your car came with drums, you would need a disc brake parts car, and swap the components over. Probably at the hub. Everything from the backing plate, the hub, bearings, discs...

DIRECT PATH OF EXHAUST PORTS TO DRIVE THE TURBO IS MUCH MORE EFFICIENT THAN THE LPT OR EVEN OLDER T-5 TYPE. Will an R exhaust manifold bolt up to a got with no problems? Yes It will also bolt up to the GLT. Your LPT engine uses the same exhaust port and turbo mounting configuration as the later "R"...

I believe ALL AWD cars and SUVs use 4-bolt as well as C-70 reinforced subframes. (but it's just what I believe)

Great fam, your dinosaur needs antlers!

Cookeh wrote: ↑Wed Dec 04, 2019 8:55 am

FLXC90 wrote: ↑Tue Dec 03, 2019 4:18 pm and what type aircraft do you work on?

Mainly 1/48th scale, though I have been known to dabble in 1/72nd on occasion. You?

C-130s The Rivnut part grabbed my attention. nutserts are much more pedestrian!

Cookeh wrote: ↑Sat Nov 30, 2019 10:07 am M4 aluminium rivnuts and button head bolts... Never worry about finding suitable rivets again, or paying a fortune for them everytime.

and what type aircraft do you work on?

Going to add pressure guage to crankcase, to check pressure during wot (wide open thro). Blew shaft seal from cam shaft recently. After that I'll check turbo pressure. Thinking I may neeed aux crankcase vent, (thinking with check valve). Was your seal dried to rock hard? If so it's not really a pre...

- Not good, but great since you can consider that a flushing fluid. Get a case of this JWS 3309 Full Synthetic ASAP before it goes up. Can use the MVS link to help with this website at no cost to you. Additives in the fluid matter! https://www.amazon.com/HAVOLINE-226536481-12pk-Synthetic-Multi-Vehi...

bmdubya1198 wrote: ↑Mon Aug 27, 2018 5:44 pm

FLXC90 wrote: ↑Mon Aug 27, 2018 4:09 pm Got home from the hospital and wanted to cry... see classsifieds

Good luck with the sale, sounds like a great car! I hope all is well!

You have thw GLT and the R, round out the set? 16T for the GLT, 18t for the T5 plus your your r

abscate wrote: ↑Mon Aug 27, 2018 8:01 pm GLWS and. When you are ready, we will find another one for you.

Thanks Steve, but I'm afraid my wrenching days are behind me. I may look again one day but practicality before pride. I'm just happy to be upright.

scot850 wrote: ↑Mon Aug 27, 2018 4:50 pm Truly sorry to hear that. I hope you are on the mend and that is more important.

Good luck with the sale.

Neil.

Thanks Neil, I appreciate it this has been my unicorn, not to the depths of a true p80 R but alas!

After neardeath my priorities have changed. My eternally on hold project has to go. 98 V70 Black/oak arena 110 ish k original miles unmolested 2.3 w 16t and whites Roof rack w/crossbars parts collected for it Wing R front and rear bumpers, with fogs and r mud flaps Eggcrate Blue Gauge cluster cargo ...

Got home from the hospital and wanted to cry... see classsifieds

only variance I see is for Misha: Your 96, would have been our 95.

The Deep thud as it went into limp mode concerns me more. sounds like something got real unhappy.

Do dry compression test, note results, if there's a large variance between cylinders do a wet test to check condition of rings. You may have blow-by that the breather can't keep up with in its stock configuration. You may need to upgrade to larger hose per the "Ultimate PCV" thread here.

nickelghandi wrote: ↑Sat Jul 21, 2018 2:33 pm FLXC90,

See my above post with the photo of piston head damage.

Yeah-I edited my post, started to draft while you were loading last post I guess. I would blend it out and go for it!

If it is foreign object obstruction, it would have to come from the cylinder. Perhaps a piece of spark plug electrode? or perhaps valve seat material. There is not enough clearance between the stem and guide for anything to "fall" into the valve pocket without it being very obvious. With plugs out a...

And without that dangerous nav system!

One caution regarding the part number and applications. If you get a head from a non-turbo car, swap the exhaust valves from your turbo head. They are sodium filled in order to deal with the heat from the turbo.

WARNING-controversial statement ahead: On this engine, you can have a minor head gasket leak that you can drive on for months. The critical factors are fluid consumption for oil and coolant, and temperature. If your car is not mixing fluids, and not losing much, then keep up on them, and if the engi...

Friday I consigned POS70 to its fate, signed it over to my son. Parking rules apply, it shares the drive with his '10 XC60 T6 AWD.

BEJinFbk wrote: ↑Mon Jul 09, 2018 2:17 pm

abscate wrote: ↑Mon Jul 09, 2018 12:20 pm Most fog lights are just “
I spent too much on this car” markers

"I think I'll put yellow lamps in mine... Maybe PIAA's!"

R stands for RALLY, right?!

Arcing of contacts - little or no suppression . I’ve found some EBay/AliExpress units with better suppression/capacitors. The rare case of aftermarket better than OEM I bought a $20 switch of amazon, plastic was wrong color and the LEDs are about three times as bright as other lights in the car. Bu...

I started an investigation like Scott is doing a few year back because I suspected the master switch on my '98 C70 was defective. I ended it short because I determined the master switch was good. It was the window regulator that needed service. Anyway the price of the C70 master switch is way highe...

I agree with the "while you're in there" point of view. If OP can get a helper to lift the head straight up and steady it, I doubt the cleanup would be much with so new a gasket. beats the expense of a third redo. With a helper they might be able to leave the intake on as a handle. After removing th...

I have never seen one up here in Canada. If anyone has them they are expensive as they are obsolete from Volvo. I know they are also fragile and tend to break when removed as they sit in the sun. Try the usual specialists and you may get lucky. Actually it may be worth trying a dealer for laughs as...

Just-DIY, and DIY3

I would check the build threads on VS and maybe with ARD, I seem to recall them doing some of this. Of course you won't have the oiling for the CVVT solenoids. Also, the 04 head is solid lifter, I don't know how that would affect things oil wise.

On the timing belt side of the intake manifold there is a vacuum line nipple. you can see it here in step 9. https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=28487 Is that hose connected? I can see that making a sucking noise if not connected. I'd be surprised if it air flowing through the ...

They are an M7 x35mm bolt. torque is very low , they would be easy to strip if overtightened, or if the threads pulled on disassembly.

Wow— that’s good to know. To be honest, we don’t feel like fixing it ourselves and waiting for the next thing to go wrong. It’s been a great vehicle for 19 years. We are just shocked that it died that way. We have the 2019 XC40 on order, due to arrive in August. But we thought the XC70 would have m...

Valve job or cylinder head swap, drive it for another 200k

use a mechanics stethoscope or improvised version, to identify where the ticking is coming from. is it the injectors? are some "firing" different from others? (different sound) is it the plugs, or is it the lifters. Also, does your temp gauge seem to be working normally? with the code for the ECT, i...

check the rate of occurrence, does it coincide with a revolution of the wheel? Check with car on stands, look at inside lip of the rim for contact, check the backing plate, check the brake caliper bolts, check the end-link and strut body etc... look for the rub marks. Maybe remove the wheel with car...

Bonus Karma points, think how much you improved what they had. The Cosmos will thank you for what you have done!

This is actually a straightforward mechanical operation. There are so many tutorials on R&R of the head, default is the truesoap version. You will have differences due to the CVVT hub. Robert just recently put out a video on rebuilding the head. Your concerns are the valve stem diameter, lifter type...

You indicate the return line from the cooler. I don't know what pressure it is actually subjected to, and this type of line can be repaired using hose and worm-type clamps, but it is your engine's oil line, I would have the line rebuilt by a specialist, or replaced with new.

W; make your testing easier, get a piece of tubing you can run on top of the motor temporarily, then work on routing one the right way after you've done your diagnosis.

If the throttle body itself is not the culprit, then I would check the wiring, ensure connections are clean and secure, maybe remove, clean, and reseat the connector and the ECU as well.

I think it was cn90 that posted it, nut there is a thread out there for rebuilding the return hose using proper line and regular hose clamps instead of crimped on connections. It can be worked economically.

chrafael wrote: ↑Wed Jun 06, 2018 7:34 am Is it possible the tie rod arm on the spindle is bent?

Wow, that is a real simple thing I totally overlooked, good catch! would be easy to check, and easy to fix

My son and Daughter-In-Law have a like vehicle w/approx. 135k. When they bought it last year, it threw the 420 just before a cross-country move. Ordered a cat, and the light went out! 15 months later, as they returned to FL from WA, the light came on during the trip home, and extinguished again by i...

Had similar issue and warning message on my 2004 T6. Tried the DIY solder of the pins on circuit board with no success. Dealer told me ABS module is irrepairable. Can't install a used one since software is specifically programmed to each car. Need new BCM and software programming to match my ECM so...

+1 to mrbrian, also, switching radial tires from one direction of rotation (side of the vehicle)to the opposite is an invitation to broken carcass belts.

As is mentioned in some similar threads, like part number CEMs, from like equipped vehicles, may swap in and work, caveat: odometer will read higher of donor or recipient. Also, a serviceable CEM can be reprogrammed through VIDA/DICE to match your vehicle. https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/vi...

Yeah but, oops, I see now that it IS a 96, which would be ABS controlled. (should have re-read the thread title, not just responded to the one block!) Also, on the 850 odo gear, do the speedos die also, or it should just be the odometers that drop out.

amblerman wrote: ↑Tue Jun 05, 2018 10:30 pm I just found out that the 1999-2000 s70 uses a 120 amp alternator while the 1998 and earlier used a 100 amp unit.

And that ends my plan of harvesting the alternator out of my donor 1998 car... oh well.

-A

pull it anyways, trade bait

http://row52.com/Vehicle/Index/YV1LT56D0X2584890 , http://row52.com/Vehicle/Index/YV1LZ56D1X2559107, http://row52.com/Vehicle/Index/YV1LZ56DXY2679862 closest ones I found, might check about getting an OEM one picked? You are kinda on Robert's immediate travel path, he may find you one between OKC an...

You are right, Neil. The pre-96s used a VSS or trans output sensor, and it is mounted on the bottom of the trans IIRC. The wiring could have gotten yanked on a particularly rough area that could protrude above the subframe level. I would find it unlikely, but who knows.

That stinks man. If you have their insurance I’d take it to the dealer ASAP. Not a body shop. Just so many different parts that could be get messed up in non-obvious ways with that kind of impact. What he said; is this insurance, or just taking care of it yourself? I'm sure anything more than what ...

Overboosting is usually a vacuum leak issue. Smoke test?

abscate wrote: ↑Tue Jun 05, 2018 6:41 am

You can also jiggle the key to see if the engine cuts out

..and try this in a safe place, like circling the Arc d'Trump....did I spell that right?

Is that in Atlantic City? Or Vegas? LOL

Check The electrical Portion of the ignition switch. Also check the condition of your battery cables and B+ cable to the fusebox. It doesn't sound fuel related because the dash losing power. When you push hard on the pedal in first or second gear, is there wheel slip? If so, that might trip the ABS ...

First off welcome to MVS! Can you contact the previous owner? Had they already replaced a faulty ETM with another from a junkyard before selling it to you? Did you actually purchase current ETM from Xemodex, using VIN verification of part number etc... Have you contacted Xemodex customer service? Do...

And did they just "repair" it to standard configuration, or did they install a contactless sensor?

a chafed wire or harness causing a dead short.

you may consider a dab of anti-seize on the shanks of the bolts to prevent them galling in the sleeve of the bushing. Applied just off of the threads, so that inserting them smears it "up" the bolt.

which makes you entirely welcome here!

pull the cap and wipe it out. maybe smear some wax on the cap flange. Do a glove test,

Yes THAT hose ITs easy after you figure out $130 is a lot cheaper than 3 hours of fighting the fitting which you ruin anyway. Cut the fitting off the receiver and you are home free. "You are correct, sir" exactly how it went, but the threads had galled, and the nut was no longer serviceable. Pull th...

the black cover has no affect on spark.

If you have a helper, one press brake, one listen for where the squeaker is. use a length of tubing as a stethoscope if necessary, to really nail it down, unless it is obviously inside the can. (booster)

C: how about when you manually shift the car, or try S mode button? Has the fluid been checked/changed? May be past that point, but cheap first step.

Pulled a vacuum on my brother's 2000 V70 air conditioner, got it down to 30 bar and after 40 mins it was at 29. (Good enough for me!) Readjusted his a/c clutch gap too. It was about .75 before being adjusted. Car easily took in a can and a half of refrigerant and my brother had to shut the car off ...

Wiki says The B5254T is a 2.5 L (2,435 cc) straight-five. It is turbocharged and intercooled with a power output 193 PS (142 kW; 190 hp)[153] at 5100 rpm,[110] with 270 N⋅m (200 lb⋅ft) of torque at 1800–5000 rpm.[110] It is equipped with Bosch Motronic 4.4 engine management for model years 1997 and ...

Based on your info in the first block, YES

sitting still do you hear a big chuff of air when you push the pedal?
normal failure mode is a hole in the diaphragm. Other way is hole in the outer housing, like rust-through.

They may be suggesting an external cooler because : 1) risk of cross-contamination in radiator mounted unit. 2) risk of friction material contamination in your current cooler. 3) demands of particular climate, or use towing. But you already answered no to those above. Trans fluid getting in the cool...

Be a nice guy, leave the information where whoever gets the car can know this. And give them the info for Midwest ABS repair. Midwest ABS
805 S. Maumee St.
Tecumseh, MI 49286
https://www.midwest-abs.com/Volvo_ABS_Module_Repair.php

Your U0073 is a generic code that says a CANBUS module is bad. It doesn't tell you anything about WHICH module. You need to trace system with VIDA/DICE level equipment. Your P0863 is for the trans control module. However, your symptoms lean towards Central Electronic Module (CEM) which is kinda like...

You were "able to get home", but was it driving normally? Or still hesitating. Get it scanned using VIDA/DICE not just generic scanner if not what you used. As you state, both sensors at once sounds odd. Check your charge air pipes, intercooler etc. Also, check the vacuum/boost reference hoses for l...

Try starting the car in neutral for first start of the day. Also, try backing in to your parking spot and se if it clunks then if put in D before R

The v70 was a non-turbo - total dog in the performance category. Ok, so it took you 8 seconds instead of 5 or 6 to speed up from 45 to 100mph. Which will get you run over in Atlanta traffic! I have a 98 N/A with 240k on it that has been in constant service, and a 98 T5 with 110k, that sat for 5 yea...

Installed the replacement receiver/drier and compressor to drier hose I've been lugging around for about 15 months now. Maybe this weekend I can restore functionality to the A/C.

There are different solenoids to trigger shifting in the automatic transmission, and to lock up the torque converter. There are threads that cover the change, but it is usually a job left to "experts". Solenoids may suffer from contamination buildup in their operating bores, especially in higher mil...

There is anecdotal evidence in the forum of owners having cars spec'd for TRW, but having retrofitted SMI racks. I would "speculate" the mount pattern is the same. But as the sage moderator says, a point to consider. Maybe dealer or indie can inform you?

Jackteet, When the "S" is engaged, it may raise line pressure requirements for upshifting. A sticking solenoid sounds more likely the culprit here. I have 240k on my 98 N/A and it does the same thing at 40-50 mph. I would recommend a fluid change first, then evaluation of solenoids, valve body, or c...

where was the pump purchased? vendor x price may reveal brand. otherwise it would be on the side of the pump motor (in the tank)
you should have access to the pump via an inside access panel.

The damper/servo motor you need to get to is hidden on the RHS of the center section of the dash. To access it you need to remove the glove box liner and then you can drop the lower under dash. You will need a lot of patience and swear words as sell as a magnetic Torx driver to access the 3 small T...

If you PnP this you are looking for a non-convertible, Non-AWD. these will be your most direct matchup. These should give you the two-bolt LCAs. AWD subframes usually had 4-bolt LCAs and Convertibles have additional bracing, possibly a plus if you drive hard. Also, a four-bolt LCA subframe can be us...

Do it just like the trans, remove the return hose at the reservoir, pump into a container, replace as you go, maybe a half-liter at a time. two to three cycles should have clean fluid in the whole system

Thanks for that GG, he says transaxle performance is good, just cured a multi-cylinder misfire condition on new to him SUV. He will be relieved that he just needs to clean his throttle body and put his right foot on a diet!

Do the PCV, it is buying the time to build a spare motor, otherwise, as you know, the RMS will go the week before you would have had the other motor ready. The AT 205 will flex up the seal, but first you need to relieve the pressure. The AT 205 may also soften and recondition your valve stem seals. ...

See the comments about the turbo, if the seals leak, it will blow oil right into the exhaust, then you look like the mosquito control guy.

Zombie thread alert: Mods wanna make a clean start?

Not a typo-prior to 99 (I believe) they used ATF, check the owner's manual online for spec. Later models used power steering fluid (the green stuff) Don't mix the two.

Only worry on the "Short-six" is the READ-rear engine accessory drive. Looking at a large chunk if the drive for the alternator etc goes. And it may not be common, but it has not been unheard of. A friend just asked for info on his early V8 with Slow down or upshift warning (valve body?) I'd go for ...

Yes, many of us have appreciated your... Insight

expect it to be the valve cover leaking, it is common to the early 4.4s

Now throw on a 16T and take it up to Dirtfish!

Notice that OP is not in N. America. The wheel from any 98-2004 C70 or 98-2000 S or V70 will fit.

small pair of needlenose pliers?

I haven't done this particular task yet on any of my Volvos. That being said, and prevailing wisdom saying stick with bluebox/oe for seals and critical parts, the caveat for expense is: How many miles do you accrue per year, and how long do you intend to keep the car, what is the ROE for the cost of...

Does your radiator also have an integral OIL cooler? it may have been losing oil into the coolant and burned/leaked that too. Has the oil consumption decreased or still high?

Maybe that just allows the bellows to expand and collapse more easily? Installed with the hole at the top where it will allow pressure release but not extrude grease

Nice time capsule

wizechatmgr wrote: ↑Fri May 04, 2018 5:07 pm How much for that immaculate steering wheel?

It looks like it should fit a '99 V70. Can anyone confirm?

I have a 99R wheel in my 98 base so, yeah it fits

Got a '99 T5M (C70) ETM today for the R . From what I understand, there is no difference between auto and manual ETMs. I plugged it in and it turned on like it should have. Didn't open and close with the gas pedal (I believe it's supposed to, but my current one doesn't either from what I can hear),...

At least a good sudsing of car wash soap using care around alternator and sensors. Not familiar with the 2.5, but when I pulled the subframe from my T6, there were a couple bolt-on clamps, and plastic clips. other than that, it's a matter of finding out how to snake the line in or out. You may need ...

It may be as simple as "gunk: build up clogging the ports in the reservoir, preventing fluid supply. As stated above, work backwards from the bleeder, to the caliper line, to the hard line, to the ABS pump. try the lines before the ABS pump also. And the the lines from the master cylinder. Also try ...

+1 for wize, yes our climate drains batteries. Lack of maintenance finishes them prematurely. Your situation sounds like a good call for a tender.

Try writing down your VIN and using a VIN decoder, the one at the Volvo club website breaks down the different emissions codes. The EGR is a valve and large metal tube that connect to your intake manifold. Check the videos and you will learn it (my cars are non-EGR, so I'm kinda clueless. the above ...