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For more info on NIST https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/National_Institute_of_Standards_and_Technology Without standards there would be chaos in industry. At the beginning of the industrial revolution, each shop had their own design for nut and bolt threads. They did not interchange with other shops! I...

Well that was easier than it could have been!

Very nice black all weather trunk liner for P80 sedans (1993-1997 850, 1998-2000 S70). No tears or holes. This is a genuine Volvo part, not WeatherTech.

$65 plus shipping, please message me for a quote. Pickup available in Charlotte, NC area.

*I will upload pics tomorrow once it's light out.*

kallekula wrote: ↑Mon Oct 19, 2020 4:44 pm
People seem to sell them for $150 on fleabay. Is that a reasonable price?

Yup, that sounds reasonable to me. That's what I've sold them for in the past.

kallekula wrote: ↑Mon Oct 19, 2020 12:03 pm Look what I stumbled on again at the bone yard. These things seem easier to find nowadays?

Still pretty uncommon and still sought after!

Upgrade your leaky P80 power steering reservoir with this P2 style reservoir! Includes suction hose and cap in good condition. As you can see, it’s just looped to keep it from dripping in storage/shipping. Direct swap for all 1999+ P80s and P2s. Just hook up your existing return hose and you're good...

I remember considering replacing the return line on my 2000 when it was leaking at the reservoir, then I decided against that after seeing the price. I cut the end off, re-clamped with an oetiker clamp, and all is well. Also made sure to upgrade to the 2005+ P2 style reservoir. SOO much better looki...

That 780 looks really nice. Maybe priced a little high depending on what work it needs, but a solid looking car for sure.

brunocerous wrote: ↑Sat Oct 17, 2020 7:44 am The positive and the B+ cables had been changed by the PO, so I wonder if there's an ongoing issue lurking.

Never a dull moment!

Ah, if that's the case then it would probably be worth looking into.

If you had the battery disconnected it will take a while for the adaptive to relearn on ME7, in my experience If your CBV diaphragm is weak, or if the vacuum hose is leaky, that will also delay pulloff from lifting - not good for turbo either If you hear the PHUT PHIT PHUT when you lift that’s the ...

Swapped my clutch sensor today, and of course it STILL spikes the revs on shifts if I'm heavy on the throttle. Really odd... is this normal?

Wow yeah that's quite a bit, 1 time was enough for me for awhile I pulled mine on the 1/4 ton as well due to the short reach, and I still mamed my front license plate Yeah, I always try to put something between the jack on the hoist and the front bumper. For the S60R, I just removed the bumper cove...

Out of curiosity how many engines have you pulled at this point in total? It seems like you do it pretty frequently Oh man... a lot. I do it a lot more frequently than I realize. I think I've pulled somewhere around 14-15. At least 12 on this particular hoist... always on the 1/4 ton position :wink...

Very luxurious S40! lol

I love that garage floor. I would love to refinish mine eventually. I just don't feel like moving anything.

MoVolvos wrote: ↑Mon Oct 12, 2020 2:13 pm
Is that makeup (silver eyeliner) original?

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S80.jpg

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It is. Not sure if it depends on trim level, but the S80 is similar to the NedCar S40 in that there were many headlight variants.

A non-leaking E39... that's a beautiful fantasy. One day mine will get to that point!

j-dawg wrote: ↑Sun Oct 11, 2020 4:42 pm
The changeover happens somewhere in the 99 model year. My 99 came with hydraulic lifters.

Right, I think it was late '99. My cousin's '99 has hydraulic, and I BELIEVE my 2000 R actually has hydraulic as well. My old 2000 S70 had solid lifters.

Volvo says keeps revs under 3000 until lifter tick subsides Now that's interesting. BMW's solution on the N52 is to run the engine at like 6k RPM for an extended period of time to bleed the air out of the lifters and get the oil filled up. Doesn't sound like a great idea considering the LACK of oil...

No lost. You don't want a battery that been submerged in a lake. The electrolyte and the water would exchange through the vent. The contaminants in the water would seriously mess up the chemical balance of the battery. Same effects as topping off a FLA battery with tap water or bottled drinking wat...

RickHaleParker wrote: ↑Sat Oct 10, 2020 7:20 pm
Did you take it home and play god? You know ... bring dead things back to life.

Lol, only did that with a genuine Volvo H6 battery I found for my S70. Couldn't get the trunk open without crawling through the lake in the trunk.

I wonder how it got there. Probably "fell off the truck."

I'll take a few tickets! Looks pretty clean. I wonder what it looks like underneath. Saw a nice looking 240 at the junkyard yesterday (not IN the yard fortunately), didn't run across the owner though. I also saw one at Home Depot earlier today, and the guy had walked out of the store just after me. ...

Ha, last S60R I found in a junkyard still had the battery CONNECTED! Good thing the battery was totally dead!

Upgrade your leaky P80 power steering reservoir with this P2 style reservoir! Includes suction hose and cap in good condition. As you can see, it’s just looped to keep it from dripping in storage/shipping. Direct swap for all 1999+ P80s and P2s. Just hook up your existing return hose and you're good...

foggydogg wrote: ↑Fri Oct 09, 2020 8:32 am But the 'buy it now' is a low, low $13,000
Sometimes I think these folks watch a little too much TV.

Oh yeah... definitely!

Am I wrong to be confused, that an aluminum block and transmission are over 500 lbs? Are are you pulling up too hard when it gets hung up on something? It actually barely got hung up coming out, which is rare! But yeah, I was thinking the same thing. I think it's probably around 500-600 pounds, bec...

foggydogg wrote: ↑Thu Oct 08, 2020 8:51 am Another 122, this one in Florida. Note the 'retail' number !
https://www.copart.com/lot/49336670/cle ... ille-north

https://cs.copart.com/v1/AUTH_svc.pdoc0 ... 3546c3.JPG

$24k!?!? Copart's ARV is always off.

I have a KAE intermittent relay, not sure if it is the same part number, but it programs differently from the 99 relay. Put the wiper switch to delay position, then pull the stalk toward you briefly like for a fluid squirt, when the appropriate time has passed pull the stalk again to set the interv...

Interesting. I got a KAE relay (probably the same PN, I don't remember) from NAPA, and it didn't work for me either. I'm going to have to get that 99 relay.

Put the square tubing inside the existing one. I found a standard size that fit in and welded it to pull shrubs from the house. That made the tool 'Gardening Appliance' which meant it goes on her budget instead of mine. :D Good thinking! Now you need to experiment with other expensive tools around ...

No more blue for me then

It would just have to be able to handle additional weight.

Yeah that load leveler is a big help, I have the same one from HF. Although the handle is a joke As you may be able to see, I chopped the handle off mine. It's awful! I use a 24mm socket on my big Milwaukee impact and that works MUCH better. Watch the rating on your crane, Alex. You are over 1/4 to...

Technically they should be replaced, but I've never replaced the strut to knuckle bolts. Only if they're really rusty and nasty, otherwise I'll reuse them. Never a problem over many, many miles. I HAVE had sway bar link nuts loosen up, twice to be exact on my V70R. Once the top and once the bottom. ...

So glad you got this figured out, I know thats been a long battle. Im surprised your still getting good boost with those leaks. But huge congrats on getting it sorted ! It's certainly been a long time coming. Still a little funky (needle bounces around a little between 15-17 PSI) but the important ...

I like it! Looks like it could make a nice daily driver. Someone just needs to flip that shift knob back around!

Glad to hear it's running well now! Hopefully this was the biggest hurdle, and you'll just need to do small stuff from this point to get it all straightened out.
750 RPM is right where it should be, my brother's '03 idles right around there.

Hit 200k today on the V70R. Perfect timing, Hilton FINALLY managed to sort out my tune! I am now, for the first time since buying this car, making full boost every time I hit the throttle. This took WAY too long to figure out... but this car was severely neglected before I had it, so I shouldn't be ...

Sufbug wrote: ↑Sun Oct 04, 2020 1:20 pm Ahhhhhh the famous volvo look aka eggcrate grille! I need one of those! Can I get one for a 1998 v70 GLT with a LPT?

Yup, it'll clip right on.

Chuck W wrote: ↑Sun Oct 04, 2020 9:39 am Installed the last of the new powder-coated bits on the wife's '97GLT yesterday.

Looking good!

scot850 wrote: ↑Wed Sep 30, 2020 8:35 pm Anyone want to take a bid on this one? Un-reserved charity auction car:

https://regalauctions.com/inventory/CAR ... /83113.htm

Neil.

Huh, that could be a good deal right there.

I was going to say, that seems really fast for the flex pipe to be rotted out again. It probably had increased stress on it for some reason.

kallekula wrote: ↑Wed Sep 30, 2020 11:38 am Hard to find anything usable on that one

Passenger mirror looks okay!

Interesting... that looks pretty good overall. I wonder how the exterior looks.

Good deal for only $20! https://charlotte.craigslist.org/pts/d/ ... 54845.html

Hmm... listed as a GLT but it's an M56 car. Must actually be NA.

What's the weird badge on that Ford Explorer? It means that I'm too sophisticated for a plain Jane Explorer. I demand luxury! ...that said the seats are cloth for some reason. Any other Mountaineer I've seen has leather. It's supposed to be positioned between the Explorer Eddie Bauer and Limited, a...

Wow... that's awesome!

I wonder how that went... the crank would have to come out as well, so that seems like a lot of work just to re-ring.

Eeew... jewels with a waterfall grille. They need an egg crate to look right. That reminds me, I need to figure out a way to graft an egg crate onto my Mountaineer!

Today I found a zero cost temporary fix for my clogged AC drain. For years I've had the sloshing water sound when driving through tight turns and would have water spill onto the passenger floor. I usedto think rain was somehow leaking into the system. I know better now. This vehicle also did not co...

Very nice!

RickHaleParker wrote: ↑Fri Sep 25, 2020 9:21 pm
The ad is truthful. It is not junk, it is trash.
Junk means discarded or waste material, whereas trash means useless things to be discarded.

Ah, good point.

What I always do to release -'98 tensioners is use my 1/2" to 3/4" adapter with a 19mm wrench on the 3/4" portion. The key is to only seat it far enough into the tensioner to engage it, and leave space to grab onto it with the wrench. A 19mm crowfoot could do the job of checking torque if clearance...

The last line of the ad says it all. Pretty sure this IS junk.

You took a grEat picture of this for clarity Earlier. A 5 cent per use Royalty Is payable to Bdub or you can donate directly to the “Save the Miatas Fund”** I remember posting about it, just not what thread it's in. I think it was specifically about a tool for that. **No tax deductions on donations.

What I always do to release -'98 tensioners is use my 1/2" to 3/4" adapter with a 19mm wrench on the 3/4" portion. The key is to only seat it far enough into the tensioner to engage it, and leave space to grab onto it with the wrench. A 19mm crowfoot could do the job of checking torque if clearance ...

MoVolvos wrote: ↑Thu Sep 24, 2020 9:27 pm
Clean, spotless! Just need a little air in the right front tire.

*

That should make it perfect!

Oh my... https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/it ... 249259182/

1/2 to 3/4 adapters are cheap and easy to get, but I don't think 3/4 works does it? I ended up replacing the tensioner on this car with a new INA one, and still thought it had a little too much movement. You could use a 1/2" torque wrench with a 1/2" to 3/4" adapter, but the tensioner would need to...

1/2 quart consumption over 5k miles is pretty good. It's likely just due to normal wear. Not enough to worry about it!

You mean the pin hole to hold the tensioner in its released position? You can just compress it, then slip anything through there that fits, like an allen key.

loveMy850 wrote: ↑Mon Sep 21, 2020 1:12 pm By holding it in your hand how can you tell if the tensioner spring is good or bad? Thanks

You can get a general idea of the condition by trying to compress it. If it's easy to compress, it's likely bad. The spring should have a lot of tension.

Well, The PCV has "flow" if there is a lack of adequate vacuum, oil will go where it can, if the air rushing past from the cooling fan made enough pressure differential, it could theoretically siphon vapor from a split hose or loose fitting. more likely a bad hose just spewing. Possibly the oil coo...

For pre 1998 here is a link to discussion about swapping the starter relay to enable cruise control after a manual swap https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=93892&p=541849#p541849 Basically it needs power on the 87a pin while not cranking. Anyone have the wiring on this to a...

Overpriced. It’s a flipper who paid 2k for it. The VIN is troubling. An R with automatic is just sadness. If he's lying about the work he's done, it very well could be. Otherwise, as a flipper myself, I would never pay $5,500 for the dealer to replace a transmission on a flip car. Agreed on the las...

Yup. Pull the cap and see if there's a bunch of oil in there.

I did that once with my 850 starter. It was a connection issue ( but not the kind that makes sparks luckily!) Today I finished polishing all the big panels, some little spots to finish. Looks so much better red than pink. Oil change (Castrol GTX 10-30 for the winter), flushed out 3 qts of ATF (pret...

Ahh... one of those fun intermittent issues. It seems everything that goes wrong on my cars is like that!

What are people’s thoughts on this... https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/cto/d/san-rafael-2000-volvo-v70-all-wheel/7198889656.html 14F4A275-07F5-4686-B1BF-F8D7B25CBAC3.jpeg It looks great. Good service history, low miles, highly favorable climate for a Volvo. Will need some maintenance as it ages but...

Here are a few of West coast Canada cars: https://vancouver.craigslist.org/rds/cto/d/langley-1967-volvo-123-gt/7198514412.html I had one of these but have trouble believing the claim it was ice blue. Maybe NA got that color but never seen one that color. Having said that, I think there will be litt...

abscate wrote: ↑Thu Sep 17, 2020 9:22 am You shouldn’t be allowed to own tools with such a basic mistake. At least I can show some expert E83 work so that you can know your place. You are welcome.

Even I didn't manage that on my dad's E83.

Looks just like mine! I've wanted to paint it since I put it on over a year ago. Eventually I'll get to it lol. Changed the control arms on the S60R. Had an idiot moment and had the control arms on backwards... and I was wondering why I couldn't compress them enough to attach the spindles to the str...

abscate wrote: ↑Wed Sep 16, 2020 4:40 am Stu is in NZ so that mArket might be very different than N.A.

Right, he was asking if it's common in the NA market, though.

Replaced the broken armrest in the XC90 yesterday. I FINALLY found a good one at the junkyard on Monday. I've been searching since we got it last March!

I don't know how the guy let it get that bad. Wanna go fast when one can't afford it will get one a kind of go fast one does not want. Gone fast out of life that is. Well from what he told me, the guy he bought it from was a kid, so I'm not totally surprised. The owner before him did all the work, ...

Snagged C70 headlights from a junkyard for $75. I'm surprised they were still there - the interior was gone and a few of the headlight mounting bolts had been loosened. So now I need the corner lights. More money. But this was an upgrade I'd had in mind for some time, so I'm happy to have found the...

Bushing -- My guess is it was made by the same company that sold me a poly upper torque mount that didn't even survive a year. I've been consistently disappointed with those. I had one on my old '98 V70 for a while, then swapped it out for a rubber Lemforder part. It was too small for the bracket a...

Allegedly the PO had dyno'd the car and it made 400 AWHP. Allegedly... lol. I believe it though, it's pretty quick! The bushing must have been degrading for a long time, I don't know how the guy let it get that bad. The interesting part is that the remnants you can see there are from a poly bushing....

Woof. Youth is wasted on the young. (Seriously, that's a park, DO NOT DRIVE type issue. If that comes out of the control arm, life gets....interesting. He had no idea, he was told it was the passenger CV axle by the previous owner. I drove it around the neighborhood and decided there's no way in he...

Happen to replace the turbo control valve? My guess is the pressure may be getting high enough to push through it. If it isn't the CBV or a hose, my guess would be this... (Assuming the ECU isn't causing the issue intentionally) I can't totally rule out an issue with the ECU given other problems I'...

The turbo is back in the car with a new CHRA... and the problems persist. Still have that annoying whine and the boost still acts weird. I'm down to a clogged cat on the boost issue... I have NO idea what else it could be. It boosts to around 12 PSI, backs off to 10, then eventually builds back up t...

That buyer will be someone with an engine ready to drop in, like me. 😀 ...on the West Coast of course, and probably PNW. It’s so stupid to get angry at a seller. If I had been in and said “ sorry, I only want to pay $1500, but I hope you get your $3000.....guess who gets the call back if it has to ...

Wow... that person really likes cats!

I am crazy on this price? more then a few calls but one of them said its not worth over 1500 and I was CRAZY. He was really mad. You tell me. https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/d/seattle-2000-volvo-v70r-silver/7191840850.html Thanks in advance. Definitely not crazy, maybe a little optimistic bu...

Ordered the CHRA last night. Gonna hold off on the billet wheel since I'm planning on the K24 eventually anyway. Now I need to focus on getting the 940 together. Ugh... this car drives me nuts.

For any Jalopnik fans. I'm curious how the MVS opinion will differ from the general car enthusiast public. My guess is Jalopnik might end up a little tipped towards 'No Dice' but around here someone would scoop it up pretty quick. Maybe I'm wrong and the price is a little inflated by the dealership...

abscate wrote: ↑Tue Sep 08, 2020 6:53 pm I want to see a picture of the 19T on jack stands

3 ton is a little overkill for the compressor housing, but it works.

j-dawg wrote: ↑Tue Sep 08, 2020 5:33 pm
I don't know if the S60R manifold makes a difference, but it's pretty cheap and some people claim it makes a difference. Might be worth an upgrade if the old manifold is trashed anyway?

Yeah, I'm using a "Japanifold" from the 2001-2004 2.4T/T5. Supposed to be higher flow in the higher revs.

I took my wagon up to the canyons again this morning, after Rob of Hilton Tuning finished dialing in the tune. I think I can finally say it's fully together, nine months after getting the motor back in it. Lots of time in the 3000-6000 rpm range, all in 2nd. The car is responsive and fast, and engi...

It seems you made nice quick work of it, and you did it right. Well done!

Anyone know what the ID is for the vac line between the lower of the two inlet mani ports and the one way valve (horribly vague I know)? I've just noticed it's rather deteriorated and I'm fresh out of tube. I also know that the second I take it off it will disintegrate and I need the car running fo...

abscate wrote: ↑Mon Sep 07, 2020 4:30 am Brothers’ Money Waster

Ah, so THAT'S what it stands for!

The bulb layout on the older style taillight is different, so the bulbs don't go right into the housing. I can't confirm if it plugs right in or not, but I assume it does. I understand the price difference being a concern... it took me forever to find a good '07+ taillight in the junkyard for ours. ...

I've heard of some people going as far as to remove and replace the bearings from both the idlers and the tensioners. It really brings the cost down, if one has the tools to do it. (I do not. I wish I had a good press!) I did look it up, and if I'm reading my notes correctly, the bearing (at least ...

scot850 wrote: ↑Sun Sep 06, 2020 4:17 pm Not sure how hard to laugh at this nonsense...........!

https://vancouver.craigslist.org/van/ct ... 70172.html

Neil.

Wow... where did he get this information from?

Nice work! That was really nasty looking before. Replaced the oil pan on my brother's E34 today. Hell of a job, but it wasn't the worst thing. We got lucky and found one at the junkyard finally, so it was nice to finally finish this job! It's been on jack stands in the garage for about a week. Took ...

#dadheart It’s even harder to date when you can out bench-press them. I remember when Caitlin , in her Junior year, had a basketball coach who taught her how to rebound with her body. Not just get the ball, but command the space under the basket The first time she did it she knocked the entire team...

I believe the 2000 S70 ETM should work. As long as it's NA, you shouldn't have a problem.

I've always laughed about guys who get intimidated when a girl knows more than them about cars. Don't car guys want a girl who knows what the hell she's talking about? I know I would love that.

I agree, the bearings on one of the pulleys is dry and probably likely to fail soon. Depending upon the exact failure, that can damage the timing cover (which they are bolted to,) and be quite an involved repair. Much better to replace them before they seize. You could disassemble and figure out wh...

I sent a starter to the east coast USPS priority mail from Kansas. 10 lbs. Shipping was around $15.00 . Wow. My starter USPS to CT was $57! The medium box of motor mounts and misc returns was $21. The BMW washer in a flat envelope was $1.40. I was bruised when I left! Wow, a large flat rate would h...

Quick sailing trip to Australia?

I used to use the USPS flat rate box for the "Big Blue" delta link tool. That thing was heavy. It was about $15. The FRBs are good for heavy things that don't require a huge box. Unfortunately in most cases, the large FRB is still slightly too small for most things. Exhaust manifolds, for example.....

Huh, that's strange. That may be normal, I've never actually watched one of these at idle. Anyway, it looks like your throttle input signals are pretty smooth. That's good. I really think the ETM may be the problem here. The ETM should be responding to the inputs from the accelerator pedal, and it d...

Shipping is pretty expensive in general for heavier stuff. For cheap shipping, use Paypal to create a shipping label with USPS or UPS. Although if you use UPS (they're often the cheapest option for large or heavy items) purchase the label on UPS.com and use the code "EASY" to get a 20% or so discount.

Graph the pedal position with ignition on, engine off and slowly press it to the floor, then back off. It should be pretty linear.

Yes, that's a contactless one. Nice find! I paid around $45 for the 2013 or 2014 date code I found for my car.

I guess the switched to manufacturing them in Sweden later on.

It's unlikely for there to be any wiring issues requiring ECU removal. It can be removed with a screwdriver, but I don't think you need to remove yours.

I'm not sure, somebody mentioned is a few posts up though so I guess it might be an option. I'm not familiar with the P2 accelerator pedal assembly, but I know the P80 pedal is a contact design, just like the original ETM. They don't fail horribly often on P80s though.

RickHaleParker wrote: ↑Wed Sep 02, 2020 9:38 pm Defective bulb test circuit ?
Does it flicker when you turn the key to POS II but do not start?

Nope. Dead steady as it should be. Only happens when cranking and running.

A little bit of oil in the charge air piping is normal. That brown stuff on the cam cover is also pretty normal. I'm not sure if it's old oil residue or maybe some sort of coating on the aluminum that's baked off over time. Nothing to worry about!

It's not too hard to remove with the right tools. Here is a great writeup. https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthrea ... eplacement

I'm getting the voltage reading from the pin on connector 24/13D under the dash and chassis ground. I think it's definitely an internal ECM defect.
There's a command for turning on the CEL, however the signal for whatever reason is intermittent when it should be steady.

Just looking at those, I think your gas pedal may be a problem. Only 74% floored? That's not right.

That would explain the seemingly good ETM test, as well as the log you posted before with the graph all over the place. I think it's a pretty safe bet to replace the gas pedal.

smacknab wrote: ↑Wed Sep 02, 2020 2:24 pm
Are the post 2013 ones only made in italy? I have a white sticker that says made in sweden.

I'm not sure, it's totally possible though that they also made them in Sweden. Mine is made in Italy.

Another addition to this list... newer Volvo contactless ETMs. They started manufacturing these around 2013, IIRC. The label looks like this, rather than the older white or yellow Magneti Marelli labels. Still found on the same '99-'02 cars. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191230/8c655af83a790822...

The voltage on the that wire jumps between 12v and a few mV when it's doing this. The pinout shows when the CEL is activated, there should be a few mV (near 0) and when it's off it should be battery voltage.

Just curious if an identical ETM is found at junk yard, is it "Plug-and-play" or one has to program it? They are plug and play. They technically should be mated to the car with VIDA, but it's not necessary. It's a software download like anything else that requires a subscription and costs probably ...

Yes, a junkyard one is probably the best option. Just look out for either a yellow label that’s as new as possible or the late white label. The Volvo contactless ETMs started around 2013, and the label looks different from the older ones. They no longer have the Magneti Marelli branding. I’ll see if...

RickHaleParker wrote: ↑Tue Sep 01, 2020 10:02 pm Wait a second. The CEl will flash if the ECM detects abnormal combustion.

It will, but this isn’t the same pattern as it would flash when there’s a misfire. This is less of a flash and more of a flicker.

volvolugnut wrote: ↑Tue Sep 01, 2020 12:46 pm Who knew junk yards could be so entertaining. Next time make video.
volvolugnut

Oh, there are some days when I wish I brought popcorn. I've seen some interesting stuff.

Oh my... that is... unique.

Wow, that's an old one! 2001 date code. I'm betting it's shot. You're fortunate to have gotten so much time out of it! Does anyone here know much about the "Contactless Rebuild Kit" by Module Master on ebay? https://www.ebay.com/itm/FOR-SALE-99-00-01-02-Volvo-ETM-Contactless-Throttle-Body-Position-S...

I haven't seen much info around. I'd tear open the ECU, but I'd rather find a spare to do that.

Harry's now forbids Sawzalls. Some joker cut off the entire front end of a car to access the engine. Another destroyed a complete floor to access a transmission, this no more Sawzalls. Work smarter not harder. Sawzalls are wonderful! I saw a guy a few weeks ago at Pull a Part with a generator in th...

I unplugged 23/13D under the dash (the connector which holds both the CEL and ETS light signal wires) and touched the test light to the CEL pin on the ECU side of the connector. It indeed flashes just like the CEL when it's connected. ETS light didn't light it up, which is because the ETS light wasn...

abscate wrote: ↑Tue Sep 01, 2020 4:50 am
I’ve found if I put a boot on my head no one questions me about anything.

They probably feel they aren't intelligent enough to communicate with you.

Check the servicing is up to date including the Haldex system service and the obvious timing belt last change. P1's are hard on front suspension parts for some reason. To change the plugs you have to remove the intake. Not too hard but takes some time. I like the S40/V50 P1 model but find them a li...

Will try this today.

What leads me to believe this problem is on the cluster side is that it is affecting both the ETS light and the CEL. ETS goes to ECM B41 and CEL goes to B46. Two separate pins on the connector, two separate wires. The one common link between these two is CDM A18, which is the power source. Of course...

I'm sure it works well enough if you're in a pinch, but when the right gaskets are so cheap, I wouldn't bother. I don't know the science behind the material, but I'm not sure I would replace a steel gasket with a paper one.

It's definitely one of the pulleys. I recommend replacing the two idler pulleys ASAP. They are known for seizing up and ripping off the timing cover... and the repair is not cheap or easy. Idlers are around $50 a piece, whereas a new timing cover is $350, plus another $400 in gaskets and whatnot. Th...

Well, the CEL should in fact be on right now. When it's not on for another reason (other codes), then it doesn't turn on. This only happens when it's on. In this case, I have P0455 currently. If I clear the code, the CEL turns off and doesn't come back until the ECM cycles its tests again and detect...

Correct, using the multimeter doesn't affect the flashing. I don't think there's a short to ground on the harness. I checked this last year, and I'm almost certain that there's not an issue. I checked the resistance to ground on both of the wires and to each other, and the resistance on my cousin's ...

It's certainly possible for them to seize open. The rear brakes on my old '98 V70 did the same thing before I rebuilt the calipers and replaced the rotors and pads. The rust never wore off of the rotors.

You should be able to calibrate it with the app. I have a hard time believing you can't switch between miles and KM on the speedo.

Did a little more troubleshooting today. I checked the values against the specs in VIDA for the signal ground, 30-supply, power ground, and 15-supply. Everything was perfect. I checked the voltage on the CEL wire. It should be around 1v or less with the CEL on, and battery voltage with it off. All g...

The P1 AWD cars seem to be pretty solid from what I've seen. None of the issues that plagued AWD P80s. And yes, the T5 AWD M66 is a desirable combo, they are pretty hard to find.

I wonder if those parts are easily replaceable. Ugh... this means I'll have to tear apart the dash and cluster. Not hard, but of course it's raining and my garage is occupied by a German. Since both the CEL and ETS light are affected, I assume the issue is more likely on the power side (within the c...

Nautic blue is a nice color I had it in a wagon, but certainly not rare. It's never been considered rare, are people suggesting that now? I've actually seen people mention it a few times. It's only rare compared to black or mystic silver... those seem to be the most common colors on S/V70s. Even so...

I really don't think Nautic Blue is as rare as people think it is.

This fuse?

I think you're on the right track. Check either the cam sensor or crank sensor.

At 0800 I was still sleeping...

I wonder if one can swap another ETM from another car (same year, same model). If this is true, then try to find a similar car (non-turbo) and swap. If this solves the problem, then you know the answer. I am not a part-swapper, but sometimes a swap diagnoses things very quikcly. They're totally com...

RickHaleParker wrote: ↑Sun Aug 30, 2020 1:49 pm What engine control unit are you looking at? It sounds like you are looking at MSA 15.8 which is the ECM for Diesel engines.

I'm looking at ME7. The only difference on my diagram for MSA is that the ETS light wire goes to pin 49 instead of 41 on ME7.

Does anybody know if the signal from the ECU for the CEL is supposed to be power or ground? The diagrams aren't very clear. It almost looks like the alternator D+ wire should be the supply and the ECU will ground the CEL circuit to illuminate the bulb. I have perfect voltage from the alternator (14v...

Battery is maybe 6 months old, never any issues with it. I'm thinking about making a new ground cable for the battery too, it's looking old.

Aaaaaand just what I wanted to say a year later... IT'S BACK! Thread over on Swedespeed, but just to update this one, it's the same situation as before. CEL is on now for P0455, and it's flickering just as it was. No ETS light this time around, although while cranking, it does flicker since it's on ...

Glad to hear you’re enjoying it! I like to see more people doing upgrades like this. It clears up a lot of questions about these types of things.

The potentiometers aren't too far off, however the throttle position desired value versus the actual value are pretty weird looking. It appears the ETM is too slow to respond to throttle input. It could still be failing.

Yeah, looks like they just welded on some extra material at the hub. Easy enough!

$150 just to test? Ouch! The test on VIDA costs nothing.

It's not totally necessary to replace the MAF along with the ETM.

The general consensus on the C70 delta link is to use it on an 850/S/V70, depending on your wheel setup, you will likely need to roll the fenders.
I'm interested to see where the extra length comes from, and if it's anything beyond just slightly longer trailing arms.

That would make sense that it's calculated airflow. I wouldn't look too far into that. I think the ETM is probably on its way out, just looking at these charts and knowing your symptoms.

That seat is definitely pushed up pretty far!

You may be able to save it, I was actually able to save an AGM battery from my brother's new E34 project that was at 2 volts. It's actually held a charge after sitting for a week.

RickHaleParker wrote: ↑Wed Aug 26, 2020 10:35 pm 100 points for Bum Dub Ya.
Compared it to the one on my '05 XC90 T6. It is a match.

Haha, I thought it looked familiar!

abscate wrote: ↑Wed Aug 26, 2020 8:37 pm I got the lowdown on a Earl from Elizabeth ...

Yep... that’ll do it!

Yeah, the back seat is basically useless. Only car worse is my E39, which is hilarious considering it's a wagon.

I think they probably just extended the trailing arms a little bit. Doesn't make much sense cost-wise, but Volvo has done stranger things.

Yes, the C70 delta link is indeed wider. I read before that it was only the '03-'04, but I guess it's all of them (which actually makes more sense anyway).

Oh yeah, that's pretty crusty!

Nice wood grain shift knob. Button has typical cracking, but works just fine. This looks like the darker wood, not quite cherry red but not the "walnut". It was removed from a 2000 S70 SE.

$25 shipped in the US.

hausmeister wrote: ↑Mon Aug 24, 2020 5:04 am I just call them all shitbox, they never complained
feel free to ad a "silver" if needed for identification purposes

never named a car and never will, although I love them

I'm with ya on all these points!

* 11 years and only 31K miles. Is this bad for the vehicle? https://seattle.craigslist.org/kit/cto/d/kingston-2009-volvo-s60-only-30k-miles/7182547676.html * 31K0.png * 31K1.png * 31K2.png * Wow, that's clean! I would go over everything very carefully and do the timing belt really soon if it hasn't...

You're a lucky man. Thankfully the yard I went to had four or five 98-00 p80s so I got to pick the least rusted one. This one came off a c70 convertible so I'm guessing it didn't see too much winter driving. From what I see, that's a really nice find up there. That's most of what I usually see, it'...

Huh, looks like an exterior door handle for something. Maybe an XC90?

That delta link looks brand new! That's what they all look like down here. It's hard working on southern cars... I didn't even know that P2 cup holder was an option. Seems standard over here, never not seen it! Oh, and congratulations Abscate! My brother just picked one up for his car, he just has ...

I took a break from a Volvo repair to celebrate the best thing that ever happened in my life 33 years ago. 08F084B8-7BAE-4191-9A0C-08B0A61EB424.jpeg Meanwhile, back at home Elizabeth ; if you tell me why you won’t start , I’ll tell you what it’s like to have a turbo..... 44AECECF-DAFC-4F26-8B28-7AD...

ZionXIX wrote: ↑Sat Aug 22, 2020 12:51 pm

smacknab wrote: ↑Sat Aug 22, 2020 12:09 pm Are these desirable? Found at a junk yard in Cumberland Rhode island

I've never seen one that was split and with a mesh net. I'm sure someone would grab that.

That's what my car has.

smacknab wrote: ↑Fri Aug 21, 2020 11:04 pm

bmdubya1198 wrote: ↑Fri Aug 21, 2020 11:01 pm Hmm, I wonder if your ignition switch is going out too.

Oh Lord help me

It’s been an eventful few weeks for your car, huh?

Hmm, I wonder if your ignition switch is going out too.

To me they just look like two different cars at the front and the rear. Loses the definition of the sharp straight lines so the whole design lacks unity. But that's just my opinion. I remember WAYYYY back before I had Volvos when I first realized that the C70 was a P80, and noticed the front end on...

abscate wrote: ↑Fri Aug 21, 2020 2:19 am This is really a lot of posting just to say that you cant just drop in a V8 into an S60R

I think we knew that much...

My post just after the red C70 was referring to the XC, by the way.

erikv11 wrote: ↑Thu Aug 20, 2020 10:23 pm C70 - nah.
C70 vert - nah squared.
And it's a 99 ...

Agreed... I can't stand verts. I'd buy a coupe though. Still not a huge fan of the C70. After driving one, they're just like a sedan/wagon except with less visibility.

Oooh... better you than me! That's my least favorite part!

I wouldn't worry too much about the mileage. It looks pretty nice overall, and the price isn't TOO insane. I would probably pay $1,500 at the most for it. I'd feel like that's a good deal for that car.
Then again, who knows... it could be worse in person.

I'm gonna need proof of the pump being there...

Was checking my fuses and relays and figured I'd investigate why I don't have an airpump relay. I also don't seem to have an air pump based on the diagrams I've looked at. I started a thread about it but I'm wondering if it means it was deleted, or never had one.. '99+ P80s never had air pumps. The...

You’re exactly right. I can’t stand that... I almost get claustrophobic when I have cars all around me on the highway.

It sounds like the ETM may be a problem. You may want to start with cn90's recommendation of draining the gas, or even getting the fuel level as low as possible and filling it with some good quality fuel.

It's crazy how oblivious people can be. Glad it didn't turn out worse!

Burned my hand on a sawzall blade a few months back... I don't always think things through!

That looks pretty good for $1k! So many $1K with potential. Waiting for the seller to reply. 17,000 miles and parked for 15 years. $800 on FB. Friend and I will tow it or drive it if and when the owner replies. https://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/cto/d/lawrenceville-volvo/7174878951.html https://www...

Yeah, some of these diagrams may be a little scattered. You may be able to find more C70 diagrams if you dig around the site a little more. I believe there's a 2000 S/V/C70 diagram as well that might have that info.

RickHaleParker wrote: ↑Tue Aug 18, 2020 8:43 pm Coming along nicely! Looks like you're getting close to turning the key!

Convert to a CEM-L next.
[/quote]

That will be the fun part.

Ah I get what you're saying. I believe you'd need just about a full tank for it to splash out of the o-ring around the sending unit.

Here ya go. There's a 1998 diagram here, but from what I've seen, the '98 uses the same wiring for the audio system as the later cars.
http://web.archive.org/web/201611072130 ... 20Diagrams

Coming along nicely! Looks like you're getting close to turning the key!

Half a tank is plenty for the fuel pump to suck up.

I would recommend reading codes with VIDA and running an ETM test. It's possible that it's failing, but you'll want to check for any other issues before jumping to the ETM (vacuum leaks, MAF, etc.)

That looks pretty good for $1k!

You don't have to worry about breaking down with that hose disconnected, it's simply an air duct. If anything, it will improve performance until you fix the air box thermostat.

MoVolvos wrote: ↑Sun Aug 16, 2020 5:37 pm I'm tempted to tow it to you for repairs but you might decide keep it .

I mean, sometimes I can let them go...

Glad it went well. Hopefully things will get better for her soon, it sounds like she's been through a hell of a lot already. Cancer is a truly horrible thing.

* 2000 Volvo S70 GLT - Needs work - $1,000 (Blue Ridge, VA) https://roanoke.craigslist.org/cto/d/villamont-2000-volvo-s70-glt-needs-work/7173658107.html * 2000 S70 1.png 2000 S70 2.png 2000 S70 3.png * Wow, that's a clean interior! I think you guys will really *enjoy* this post for a $6300 1998 s70...

Well, at least you have the whole replacement strut assembly and you don't need to mess with that. I really wish they used a better setup (a flat spot on the top of the stud) than those thin walled torx fitting that round out effortlessly.

I'm not sure if they're self-leveling, but that could be worth looking into. I don't THINK they are, but I'm not too familiar with the FourC system.

Yep... that's the biggest problem I see with using the S80 springs. Perhaps some sort of coilover setup for the S60 that's stiffer than the stock springs?

RickHaleParker wrote: ↑Fri Aug 14, 2020 1:33 pm My best bet is the springs from a S80 with a 4.4. If I can find one of them rare birds.

That may work, but how similar are the P3 springs to the P2 springs?

Come up and do my S70 AWD when ready. No AC needed up here in August. :mrgreen: Pfft, I need to keep mine running until October. That's a compelling offer! But do I want to drop an AWD rear subframe... Just saw your thread though, like we talked about before and from what I've heard from Jared and ...

abscate wrote: ↑Fri Aug 14, 2020 5:49 am
Eeeeeeks, that’s a history of a car that has been trashed, not loved.

“Pops out of second but only if you don’t hold it in “

It may have been driven hard... M56s will do that occasionally.

And here I am contemplating dropping the entire rear subframe out of my V70R...

Somebody talk me out of it

Wow, that looks nice! Not a bad price given what you're getting. The mileage is right on the money too, not too high, and not too low.

abscate wrote: ↑Thu Aug 13, 2020 7:23 am With ME7 running MAF-less will indeed trigger high fan and fan overrun after turn off

I think the lack of Maf Temp signal is the most logical explanation

Yup, that's what I was thinking. Makes the most sense to me.

cbpitt01 wrote: ↑Thu Aug 13, 2020 12:44 am Well, as long as you don’t mind not being able to use roads constructed in the US in the past 6 years, you’ll be just fine!
From volvocars.com -

Oof, that makes it pretty useless!

I agree, go ahead and replace the whole thing. Those hoses are a really screwy design on the P1 T5s.

2004 S60R with spaceball shifter! Interior looks to be in near-excellent condition. 180,000 miles, but doesn’t look it. $6950, Raleigh NC. https://raleigh.craigslist.org/ctd/d/raleigh-black-saphire-2004-volvo-s60r/7169108126.html Not too bad if it has a good service history. Navigation too! I wonde...

Flashed another tune from Hilton onto my car and ran some logs. Still trying to diagnose some weird ignition timing issues in 2nd gear. After replacing the rear engine mount the other night, that didn't improve anything like we thought it might. I also need to adjust my short shifter at some point t...

Well I bring it up because many MAF sensors have built-in intake temperature sensors. ME7 uses a separate IAT sensor. Either way, my car is ME7 and the failed MAF sensor kicked on the fan.
It's possible that it shared a ground with the ECT sensor, but I'm not sure.

Perhaps I'm mixing it up with BMW MS45 MAF sensors, but I know my fan ran when my last MAF failed on my 2000 R.

Look into that VVT solenoid. Lack of a MAF signal will send the intake temp reading way up, causing the fan to come on. It will eventually shut off, it usually runs for 5 minutes or so. Your MAF sensor is likely just fine.

I don't know that they have a set position, but you can test it in VIDA. If you look at the fault tracing for that code, it will walk you through testing. Basically, the value should change as you rev the engine. If not, it's definitely bad. If it does, it still could be bad, just won't be keeping u...

BMWs go through phases. Occasionally, they'll seem to need everything replaced at once, then they'll be trouble free for a long time. Mine has been great, 245k miles and runs like new for the most part!

I believe that code is for the VVT solenoid. That will certainly cause the rough idle. How old is your timing belt? Before running the car, make sure everything is where it should be and it hasn't jumped timing slightly. You may have caught it just in time. From what I can see, this code will appear...

That's right, I thought I remembered you replacing the SF bushings.

The problem with any non-runner is the leap of faith needed from the seller that there aren’t major power train problems that can’t be evaluated. Honestly when I see an ad like this I see a “I like to bolt on shiny stuff “ kid rather than “ fix my car” kid All the more reason it's likely as simple ...

I hate you SoCa guys and your shiny exhaust hardware... We get this... We get that shiny new exhaust hardware down here too... it's hard :lol: I started a transmission service job on my BMW. So.... .Volvo vs BMW.. Any opinions there? I know a 540i and an s70 aren't really fair comparisons but I'm i...

You can smoke test to find vacuum leaks.

Even easier on the '99 being an RN car already.

On the edge of starting a thread for this crank, no-start. !998 V70 NA New reworked cylinder head - planing, valve lapping, valve guide seals Compression test ok cold, wet at 150-180 psi Have good spark at Number one plug New cap and rotor Supply voltage at fuel injectors in 12.4V with battery at 1...

The schedule will he delayed, and trains will come only every 20 minutes.” :lol: :lol: must be hard waiting for public transit over there! How could I forget... SUBFRAME BUSHINGS!!! https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=77040 :mrgreen: YES... definitely a great idea to replac...

https://newyork.craigslist.org/lgi/cto/d/massapequa-park-99-volvo-v70/7170934412.html I didn't know you could put a s60 engine in a 99.. maybe that's why it isn't running. but the post says it's a manual and it looks pretty clean with some apparently expensive bits on it. The '04 S60 engine is a dr...

Yeah, I wouldn't bother adding an alarm!

I wouldn't worry about the oil pump gasket/seals.

Adding to the list, front crank seal and cam seals. Might as well tackle all that while the engine is out and apart!

Possibly the PCV too if it hasn't been done.

It sounds like you have worn engine mounts. Check the passenger side mount under the crank pulley.

If it's engine related, check for vacuum leaks. How old are your spark plugs, and are they the correct type and correctly gapped? Only run blue box Volvo, Bosch FR7DC/FR7DPP, or NGK BKR6E.

I'm not sure what that connector on top of the strut tower is, but the computer is the ABS module. But yeah, callahanoffroad hit the nail on the head with everything! That's a fuel line, unrelated to the PCV.

I usually call mine "piece of sh**" but to each his own!

Yeah, USPS has a habit of doing that, it’s ridiculous.

Best of luck to you and your fiancé, I’m sure it’s a really tough situation. I couldn’t imagine. My prayers are with you!

That was a little broken!

So fuel, spark, and it still won't start?

Just typical USPS BS. It'll probably show up Monday.

It's not, turbo M56 850s were never sold stateside. Plus it's a GLT, which was NA in '96.

The mileage is pretty low, it's just the fact that it's an NA 850 for nearly $6k!

That 850 looks pretty nice, but he has no idea what he's talking about. "Sport Edition"? Did he get one of those Autozone badges? And nearly $6k is outrageous for an NA 850. I could buy a nice 850R for that kinda money.

That 850 looks really nice! That nasty wood trim on the glove box HAS to go though.

I replaced my Canister Purge Valve and Evap Shut Off Valve finally, after replacing all of my evap lines over the last few months but still having a constant p0452. Which were the final pieces of completely refreshing the evap system short of doing the carbon canister. I originally had codes p0455 ...

While that is true, there is no quick connect fitting for the hose connection. And of course now he's telling me I should have flushed everything out with an AC solvent while it was apart. I wonder if there is a blockage of gunk somewhere preventing charge from accepting. I've never had to flush a ...

For $20K, they could align the hood with the body. Looking where the hood meets the cab. I looks like the hood is not pushed all the way closed. Perhaps sloppy photography? In my option, the Ford V6 does not help the value. Some time back I could of got a slick P444 with a Chevy 350 for way less th...

That is really strange.

I believe you can remove the high pressure switch to attach the high side, it should have a shrader valve behind it to prevent the system from losing pressure. I know I've seen it done that way, although I've never had to do it.

volvolugnut wrote: ↑Wed Aug 05, 2020 1:25 pm Looks just like mine, if you close your eyes!
For $20K, they could align the hood with the body.

volvolugnut

Yeah, I'm just looking at that... that gap is pretty bad!

Last weekend, with temperatures near 90 degrees, I drove home the '98 T5 with the kids because it's the only P80 I have with air conditioning, I swapped in a new AGM battery to replace the old one that kept dying — and now it doesn't start anymore. I just get a click/sproing sound when I try to cra...

Does anyone know what the residual capacity for coolant is on the P80 turbo engines? The total capacity is listed as 7 liters. I want to switch coolant types and I'm planning to do a system drain and fill with distilled water. Would the remaining water affect the the new 50/50 mix? Don't know the e...

Definitely sounds reasonable to me!

I'm missing both screws that attach the top of the fan shroud to the engine bay. I'm looking for bolt #4 in this diagram. Anyone know what size they are?Screenshot_20200803-200854_Chrome.jpg They're longer coarse thread T25 head screws. They just screw right into the plastic, so the size doesn't ma...

Travel is likely the same, it's probably just a little stiffer. I know for the XC90, for example, they just superseded the standard strut with the sport version. The fact that they did that shows that there likely isn't a huge difference in the PNs. Especially considering that it's used, it should m...

I don’t think it will be a problem. Worse comes to worst, you can swap your original spring over to this strut. The struts should all be the same, it’s the springs that are different. How different? Probably not much.

I like that setup! That should work well with the springs. Finished the head gasket job on the 940 today, and it still runs like crap. I need to diagnose this tomorrow, but now that I know the head is done, it's probably something along the lines of fuel. Looking at the boost gauge, it's probably a ...

Huh, that’s odd. I’ll check the PN tomorrow.

Swapped the head on my 940 today. I just put an iPd turbo cam in this refreshed head (came with my 240, straight from the machine shop!) and adjusted the valves. Since I've had low compression on cylinder 1 and it's been idling like crap since I bought it, I went ahead and tore into it. Plus it star...

I thought it could be a 5v reference, but the fact that my meter showed 10v led me to believe it should be 12v.

It seems the ‘98 may not be able to read MCC codes that way. Every time I try I get nothing.