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I'vw had that cable for a while. I'll pm you my email address. Thanks!

Pulling the dash pad and instrument cluster isn't that bad. did it twice last year.

So for the second or third timw this year the ABS and TRACS light came on. I soldered the module 4 times in the past 5 years and the problem seems to come back. Since I have a 96 I can't blink out the codes. I know that theoretically wheel sensors, the wiring to the sensors and the ABS rings could r...

Reviving this thread of mine: since my plug cover broke off, has anyone tried replacing that connector?

An uneducated guess: a bad prop shaft bearing or missing driveshaft balancing weights.

Remember: there is no thing as a cheap p80. The lower the base price, the more you dump into it.
But for a few hundred you can give it a shot if it looks solid and not too badly abused.

As for the upper mount: find someone with bigger arms than you have to get it in. i couldn't get mine in, but my big big neighbor could.
As for rhw sound: unfortunately no clue

I'd rather jump on Abscate's offer because it is known to be good.
But yes, 400 is alrightish, I guess.

That is strange. The best way to get a working one is from a junkyard. Pull the 99 relay out of any 90ies VW that you can find. I have never knowingly seen a KAE relay, despite having owned a few VWs. Maybe the part is faulty. Because normally it is just a plug in and it works thing. I don't think y...

a good bumper is a must to pull and worth some bucks to most of us

and don't leave the 17 inch T5R or R rims (Titans and Volants)

you could use regular shocks and springs. but I doubt they are available for the R stance. It should work, though

The XC Nivomat will be better than the beat up R Nivomat for now. It will give you a nose down stance, but if I read Chemo you have more important things than you R's back pointing skywards. I took the bullet and ordered 2 brand new Sachs Nivomats for my 96 R 2 years ago. Cost me around a grand. Tho...

Somehow this sounds not really healthy. Kinda like those drag cars that barely idle and get stalled 2 out of 3 times trying to get moving. I'd take it for a spin, though...

I'm glad I've never been in a 960. they, just like a 945 Turbo, seem tempting. Still, I vote you off the island

I've been running the zip tie fix for years in 2 cars, it works like a charm

and remember, someone out there makes really nice replica seat covers. can't remeber the name, thiugh.

Nice job, though, @woodngrease!

From my experience: if you do alot of driving between 80 and 110 km/h (45-65mph), stick with the OE exhaust. Alot of sport exhausts drone in that range as far as I have experienced and been told of.

look at this thread for example:
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=92045

How are your motor mounts? if they collaps badly the motor's weight could force the driveshaft to rub somewhere.

I'd say yes. Both of my T5s do that. The R does it more, the regular T5 does it less. In a german forumbthere was a lenghty discussion on this topic a while ago and the concensus was that because of the design of the coolant system the fluctuation betwen cold and hot is quite high and even if cold t...

good question. I'd guess it would work, maybe you don't have the exterior temperature function of the better cluster (if your car came w/o a temp sensor).
The turbo gauge won't work if you have a NA car, that's for sure.

I don't know what goes to the empty space, I think it is used or not used depending on if you have a manual or AT car. Not sure about that, though. What I can tell you though is that you will have to jumper 2 ports of the 210/211 relay, or you won't be able to start it. If you can't find the correct...

Chuck, post a photo of the cluster you have. this should help identify it.

Okay, just for those still playing at home. I left the taillights on for 15 minutes wiring trailers, and the whole car was dead. So this battery is down to about 2 Amp hours reserve capacity, yet still starts the car. Interesting! I am experiencing the same thing with my VW T4. Repeated starts don'...

Thanks Neil! This helped me. Once you opened the cap you find 2 plastic pins that need to be pushed outwards with a screwdriver. Once they are pulled out all the way you can simply remove the connector. Putting the connector on you need to align the pins at the bottom. They have notches that need to...

Hi! So my dreaded ABS and Tracs came on today again. I guess it is the resistance in the rotten ABS Pump to ABS Module wires. So i tried to take off the ABS main wiring loom. If I recall correctly, by lifiting the cap the wiring loom should be lifted out. Today i heard a crackibg sound and the large...

scot850 wrote: ↑Sun Jun 28, 2020 3:03 pm ... said they were much better than P80 versions.

Neil.

BLASPHEMY! Nothing is better than P80. Period!

Well, a OEM coolant hose splitting after 23 years is a Volvo quality issue. If you happened to own a Ford Mondeo or Contour from the same year as your V70, you would have split these hoses at least a decade ago (ask me how I know), which is good, because they'd be rusted out by now anyhow (I had 2 M...

that's what we all get from companies producing cheaply in china for decades. behold the fruits of globalization...

sorry for you getting ripped off. it's really hard to buy quality items these days. most every manufacturer or reseller cheats somehow

I was confused when I found the premium sound system's amp in front of the heater core in my 96R as well. In front or behind? Usually an R is behind a T5... :evil: Actually you are right, it is behind the heater core. I just said in front because it was in my way when I tried to access the heater c...

I was confused when I found the premium sound system's amp in front of the heater core in my 96R as well.

if the PO used radiator leak stop, the heater core could be clogged so badly that it barely heats anymore. I had that happen on a 93 Ford Contour.

+ 1 on the ignition switch. Totally worth it because this is a wear item that can cause alot of electronic gremlins.
Then, if that doesn't help, get a replacement ECC unit. They do fail from time to time. I had it happen on my 854.

I don't think there was an option of p80 Volvos w/o power steering anywhere, so probably there is no belt in the right length. But you could always leave the pump and drain it. This mught kill the bearing iver time though. You could also try to leave the fluid in and just make a bypass from pump out...

Yes.... 1.Meyle HD will outlast all others....regular Meyle will not last long. 2.Lemforder(oem) 3.Moog(good quality) 4.TRW(good) 5.Febi(good) I never used anything from QH,so i can't say anything about their parts. Good to know that Lemförder is OEM. I will give them a try the next time they fail.

No, don't do the RMS! It is way more fun to pull the engine again to do the RMS after you put the engine in the car and find out it leaks... At least that's what I have been told by reliable sources.

Honestly, I think they are all junk. I can't remember if I put Meyle on one of my 850ies, but all of them fail biannualy. Every other inspection or so one or teo of them are shot. So be warned, no matter what you use, they won't last nearly as long as the OE units installed in the factory.

They probably only know if their marketing professionals tell them. I guess alot of companies still randomly throw money down google's drain with little impact, as impressively documented by your screenshot.

Enjoy the ride!

Also, there are different gears. Thy differ by the amount of teeth they have.

wow, that was quick!

most probably not. I guess fuel economy was quite high up on Volvo's list when designing these cars.

No, i don't, but thin plywood, a saw and some creativity should be enough. Start the rough design with cardboard first, then plywood.

isn't that the glory hole?

I was just about to finish elementary school. Quite lame compared to the eerste MTO wagen

Wow, this is really horrible. I have a rusty wagon for the winter, but it isn't nearly as bad. That needs to be addressed soon. I wouldn't want to be in an accident with these rusty rockers.

An external amp up front isn't really necessary, but it depends what you want to achieve. The main issue is finding speakers that fit in the door. 5.25 is the correct size, if I recall correctly. but you need to build a custom bracket, the screw pattetn of the Volvo speakers is not standard. Crutchf...

honestly, the only nice audio system by today's standards is the premium sound system. It has 8 speakers and an amp. All others factory systems are not worth the hassle. But as stated before, if you don't have the premium system by now it is just a waste of money. In my 2nd wagon I have a system bui...

Yeah, one seat. that's a benefit in a daily. Just think: Sorry, hun, can't pick up the kids. I really wish I could help you on this...

I test drove an E class Mercedes wagon once that gave me that feeling. The seller had even advertised it with the wrong phozo of his previous wagon, the one I looked at eas in way wirde condition. Buying old luxury cars is a nightmare over here...

Thanks Misha, you are right, the 10V and 20V were quite different...

Nice

Did they change the design of the flame trap unit for 96? It seems to look different on my 95?

my EU spec 96 Turbo w/o EGR doesn't have that trumpet. Neither has my 94 Turbo nor my 95 NA.

That is a really good article, Matthew. I missed it back then.

Very nice!

Just a quick update: 2 weeks ago the ABS/Tracs light came on, so I decided to finally install the ignition switch that I had orderer back in March. As for now, everything seems to be back to normal, even though the old switch didn´t look nearly as bad other ones I had seen on here (Steve had a prett...

quite impressive job you pulled off back then! Chapeau!

Just an idea: get rid of the clutch switch. This should be possible. The EU spec cars have no clutch switch, so simply bridging the wires shouls work, I guess. Still weird that it does that 5 second thing. But then maybe, it only powers that wire for 5 seconds and you never noticed it because you ar...

850oldschool wrote: ↑Sat Apr 18, 2020 12:35 pm Every time I see a part number in a subject line it makes me smile. It just never fails.

how come?

I'm super tired after a 3 hour MTB tour today, so my brain isn't functuonong properly. Please lengthen it, shortening will just bring boost buildup earlier. Yes, the overall boost should remain the same, but if it comes later the ECU might be okay with it. Do you know if someone tinkered with the tu...

Honestly, it is great that you can still go full throttle on some parts of German Autobahns. But at the same time it is really dangerous. Because at these speeds there is little room for error or malfunction. I took a way younger Audi A6 to 240kph once, it is great, but I don't enjoy it. Above 200 t...

Joost, this should be your part:
https://www.skandix.de/de/fahrzeug-teil ... r/1026354/

Maybe try reducing the length of the wastegate actuator rod and see if that helps.
Also, my overboosting/fuel cutout issues were just caused by bad ignition components. I had OE Bosch cap and rotor fail within 3 years.

B5452 would be a 4.5 Liter 5 Cylinder with 2 Valves. You rather have a B5254. Nevertheless, most gains will be seen from a 2.5 inch cat back exhaust, a tune by a reliable tuner, a larger Turbo and a downpipe and maybe a good intercooler. The biggest improvements should be seen from the exhaust, then...

More reliable: not necessarily. but if things screw up, you can diagnose them wirhout an OBD reader (which can be troublesome on the first OBD2 Volvos of 96, 97 and maybe 98). The ABS module of 95 and prior is more stable. But you still can get malfunction from the wiring harness and wheel sensors a...

Summer tyres, Hankook Ventus 205/45 R17

While doing a longish test drive today with my 96 trying to recreate the instrument cluster failure I had to stomp on the brakes really hard because a Bus was in my lane in a tightish corner. Even though the temps were around 50 Fahrenheit and the road was dry, the ABS came on and it seemed to take ...

be aware of the 19T aka Rodbender!

Steve-- Even the Swedes don't drink Swedish beer. It is that bad. Think Coors Lite, only worse. They resort to fine Danish alternatives, Carlsberg and Tuborg. Pripps Bla (missing diacritical mark) was awful when I was there, but that was four decades ago, so they've had time to improve. I like swed...

Maybe I didn't see it, but sid someone suggest the diaphragm in the CBV? I had a tiny hole in it, and it made boost bounce around and generally low. Also, I heard a hissing noise getting off boost while it was there.

Don't know where you could heth these parts, but why not solder?

The up to 98 (before the ETM came) are quite trouble free. Even after that they were not bad compared to say an Audi. There are way more troublesome cars to tinker around with. Up to 95 the 850ies had the OBD 1 blinky box which enabled you to diagnose car problems without an OBD reader. Plus, the 96...

It can be repaired in DIY. There is a topic around here on MVS and i just came across it few days ago. Of course....it can be something simpler like bad connection or bad earth. Remember....simpler things first! ;) I came across that link on how to fix that thing right after ordering a new one ...

erikv11 wrote: ↑Tue Mar 31, 2020 7:41 pm

Amazing that it is on original wires, TBH. How many miles/kms? Bet you might notice a change if you decide to swap them.

About 200.000 miles. It is in overall really good condition, just 2 POs, both took good care of it.

I tried wiggling the key when I noticed the instruments were gone, but it did nothing. I thi k the windows had nothing to do with it, it was probably coincidental. new ignition switch ordered, I will report back.

Would that also override the anti theft system?

well, if the reverse light switch (which is probbaly somewhere down by the shifter assembly/pnp switch) shorts out, it could cause the fuse to blow. this would also explain the no voltage at the reverse lights

On that car there is no network for operational communication so ABS module could only kill speedometer. The oil service light coming on later would indicate the cluster powered up at that delayed time. Ignition switch, cluster connections, or internal fault like a broken solder point are on the li...

So, once again, the instrument cluster went dead on my 96 R right after startup. Nothing but the clock worked. after a mile or so I tried if the windpws work (they did) and came to a full stop. after that the instruments were all back, and the service engine (oil change interval) light came on as us...

CIK7 wrote: ↑Fri Mar 20, 2020 9:52 pm Thank you. What's your opinion on removing cat? Not illegal in my state.

If you have a spare planet in your trunk, give it to me first and then continue to pollute the one you're on on purpose. If not, don't do it!!!

I habe no clue about the O2 sensor issue, but an old coolant temp sensor can cause abnormally gigh fuel consumption. But then, you seem to have traced it down to the O2 already.

+1 on the charge pipes.
Happened to me once, was a quite similar result. Lots of lights, not running. They may pop off or rip. If they are ripped, duct tape is a quick fix.

Double sided tape and using the tabs. I also drilled through the edge of the radiator and used self tapping screws through both parts with metal epoxy. Make sure you know which way around they fit. I believe you may be able to use them either way around but best to stick with the original. Neil. Wh...

Whatever Neil says is correct, he is the better Do it yourselfer. That's because he has a V70 R AWD, and I just have an 850 R. His R forced hum to become the man I never will be...

I kinda secured the intercooler with zip ties. not a very good solution, but it has been working for 2 years now. I wish you could really supply useful information for his fix. What colour were they? Hope you are all well in Austria. I think I used black ones, have to look up the manufacturer, but ...

I kinda secured the intercooler with zip ties. not a very good solution, but it has been working for 2 years now.

That are alot of miles... Even for a Volvo

I will try to identify the faulty part by swapping single parts now, but I finally wanted to see results. now it is down to 5 parts, of which I will start with inspection of the fuel pump relais because 24 yrs old. then I will give the cap and rotor a shot (although just 4 yrs old). Thanks for all y...

Well, that particular one should be disengaged by now. This is ery steange, though. The seat integrated Sips bags from 95 to 97 or 98 were detonation powered, you cannot disengage them, but they will only go off if the starter is hit in an accident. There might be a fuse for the driver and passenger...

Unfortunately, some grades of stainless are not very corrosion proof. Grades 304 and 316 has good corrosion protection. Other grades made have less protection, but can still be called stainless. volvolugnut While I don't doubt what you say, this is weird. What's the point of stainless that isn't st...

Thanks, interesting to know. And what a perfect timing to learn more about corona. Also, there is an Italian town called Corona. Coincidence? I doubt it 😉 Now, back to business. I swapped the cap, rotor, wires and and fuel pump and injector relais from the 94 to the troublesome 96. Now it seems to w...

Thanks Misha. Will try tomorrow.

okay, where could I get Vida from?

also, could brick diag read the fuel pressure?

I just stopped by my local indie and he suggested that it could be fuel starvation. Does that soubd plausible? The fuel filter is 4 years old, fuel pump and fuel pump relay are probably original. When fuel pumps were dying on my 854 I always had no start issues but all was fine as soon as it was run...

crap, problem persists. it seems that it only happens once the car has warmed up. it misses under full throttle above 4000 rpm and at idle. for the first few miles als seems fine and dandy. are we still thinking cap and rotor? need to switch them with the 94 to see if that helps.

most sport exhausts for 850ies run a 2.5 in pipe with a muffler and a resonator.

I was surprised that not going into boost whenever possible and paying attention to speed limits improved my mpg... But then, where would all the fun be. Seriously speaking, along my neverending journey to stage 0 I never noticed anything majorly to improve mpg except for smooth driving, avoiding sh...

this os a 6 year old post that was solved back then.

Neil, I imagined he'd fly you in for repairs.
.

As I see it, the used head probably is the quickest and easiest way to finish this job.

uh, maybe about time to start buying AC components. I'm on my first Evaporator in my 96...

Would Valley Springs, CA 95252, be too far?

Yes, it comes out the top. I did it on 3 850s. 2 had AC, 2 had AT, 2 were Turbo. The only tough part is getting rhe large bolts lose that screw into the round welded on nuts on the radiator support from below. The weld spots don't hold alot of torque. If you can, weld them before opening them and us...

Actually, Misha solved the problem somehow. I'm almost ashamed to solve the mysterie: When I was putting the new wires on in cold temps around the freezing point, my girlish hands must have had too little pressure to press on 2 wires ontonthe distributor completely. Seems to be good for now. I did m...

actually, that is true. Serbian sense if practicality. I like that

Thanks, Neil!
I replaced the cam sensor last fall. I will try to reroute the wire.

If that doesn't help, I will switch the distributor with the 94. Thanks, Misha

So with the switched plugs the problem seems better at idle (I'mntempted to say gone, bit I don't want to jinx it). But at over 3.500 rpm with full boost I am getting cutouts that ain't funny. I am still thinking spark. Although fuel pressure could be an issue if the pressure is too low. P.S.: As I ...

It could be the ignition switch/lock wearing out.

I read somewhere that they must have been quite keen keeping their suspension geometry to themselves, because according to the owner of a surviving 850 race wagon most racecars and prototypes were destroyed and his came with no suspension, if I recall correctly. That NA motor was quite interesting. ...

Now I switched the plugs. The ones out the 94T5 were a little on the darkish side, maybe carbon buildup. The ones out of the teoublesome 96 were whitish. Photo attached. One of them was a tad brownish around the shaft, maybe oil that got down the upper part of the plug when refilling oil? Let's see ...

It has the M4.3 ECU and Volvo plugs. They are either 4 or 2 years old. I will pull them tomorrow and see if they are in good condition and gapped correctly. Then I will swap them with the ones out of my 94. The 94 runs quite smooth right now. If the problem trnasfers, I know it is the plugs.

No, still there.
Next step: switching sparkplugs

For live codes I will need VOL FCR, right?

What I found out meanwhile: the cap had some kinda metall flakes on the conductive elements. Seems to run better now. Wonder where that comes from?

I'll swap plugs with my 94 T5 if the problem persists. Thanks for the idea.

So this time, it is my 96 R that is giving me headaches. Thing is, when flooring it, above 4000 rpm something feels like cutting out, kinda like misfiring. And at idle when warm, it cuts out a bit as well. If someone described the problem, I would suggest replacing the ignition components. But rhey ...

misha wrote: ↑Sat Feb 15, 2020 4:08 am R nivomats are pretty stiff.

they are, i deed.
My 96R is way stiffer than my 94, both with nivomats

Worn ignition components can cause that. Are your sparkplugs, wires, distributor and cap OEM quality and pretty newish? if not, this can cause erratic behaviour like you mentioned.

abscate wrote: ↑Tue Feb 04, 2020 6:30 pm Individual cylinder misfires on Volvo’s

97.3% Ignition (spark plugs, wires, coil(s), distributor cap, rotor)

0.6% fuel injection

2.05% valves, rings other mechanical

... and Steve did scientific research on this for 12.4 years, so these numbers are accurate.

+1 on cleaning the contacts. my R does exactly the same once in a while.

cheap tires suck! especially the Chinese ones.

other than that, glad it protected you. Sad to lose a nice ride like this, though.

also, check out this guy's story: https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=74923&start=20 there seem to be different flexplates, changing the polarity of the crank sensor. the solutuon is on page 3. EDIT: since abscate is in correction mood, I will clarify that: the guy in this t...

Just a few thoughts: check the wires to the starter and the alternator. if they get corroded, they might screw up something. a corroded ABS unit wire caused strange error codes on my 96. Worth checking that out because it is easy to do and cheap. also, the ignition lock gets bad with time and use. i...

abscate wrote: ↑Thu Jan 23, 2020 3:40 pm It’s a solid head gasket with anaerobic sealer between the two halves of the precision machined cam cover.

Thanks, right, there is a solid gasket... but there is also liquid, squishy, gooey stuff that can get messy.

Nice writeup. I had a similar problem years ago, I can't remember how I solved it. Well done, thanks for sharing!

yes, you could do that. it is trickier than on a firebird, though. the head gasket is a liquid one, i think you need to roll it onto the cleaned surface of the block. other than that, it is just quite a few hours of work. if you have a 98 or 99 up, you have the variable camshafts, you need to pay ex...

I would guess the alternator or the water pump. It probably is not the AC compressor because of winter. The water pump can get ugly because you might leak all coolant. If the serpentine belt is off and the noise is still there, it is the water pump or one of the timing belt pulleys. if the noise is ...

This was strongly adviced not to do to me by a guy who should know, maybe it was Lucky from ardideas. As far as I remember the larger dp would get heat to the cat quicker, but the restrictive stock exhaust would trap the heat near the cat, thereby ruining it quickly. Unfortunately a sport exhaust se...

you are most certainly getting a drone in the 2000-3000 rpm range, no matter what. It just depends on how loud it gets. I went for the most silent TME exhaust which is certified by TÜV to be 1db quieter than the stock exhaust while having 70% less backpressure. at idle it is super quiet, at full thr...

Stu70 wrote: ↑Sun Jan 12, 2020 2:45 pm I’d be in for seat skin - if a kind person would be able help in getting it out of the US. A bumper would be nice but I think shipping would kill it for me...

If the bumper really happens, maybe we can do a european group buy, could be worth it.

it is also not possible to swap a turbo-motor into a non-turbo-body. on p80 Volvos what you get is what you've got, no easy way to change that.

that would be sweet, indeed

Reading your post again: there is a self test of the ABS at around 25 mph.

I think that if you unhook the battery for a while the codes should be gone. If not, I usually go to the dealer for that. And, be sure that the connection and wires to the ABS unit are still in decent condition. Last time my ABS light came on intermittently I boticed that the 2 big black wires runni...

True, the MAF changed for 95 and up, but if the car has > 200k the MAF has probably been replaced. Thus, if it looks somewhat newish, and if the car has been there for a while and might have an appointment with the crusher soon, might as well grab the MAF—somebody here might need it. really, it cha...

it kinda depends on the price. my R bumper is still okay, so are my R seat covers. But if they are of high quality I'd be interested. Especially the R bumper wozld be great to have as a spare.

Boys, the e39 and W123/124 are RWD. They usually have a bigger steering angle. A bigger steering angle wears the driveshafts faster, so they started reducing them in the early nineties. Most European FWD cars from the 80ies had a sharper turning radius, but driveshafts would start going bad before y...

BEJinFbk wrote: ↑Wed Jan 08, 2020 2:01 pm If they put these back out on the market at a
reasonable price, I’ll bet they’d sell boatloads!

I'm sure they would. but you just can't bring back a 30 year old concept to modern markets due to emissions, safety equipment and alike. Too sad though, I'd buy 2.

I know a guy who imports bottled water from the atlantic island of the Azores to Vienna, the city with most probably the best tap water in the world. And while that moron is allowed to do that, politicians are discussing that just cars compliant to emissions standard Euro 6d should be allowed to ent...

For me, growing up in the 80ies and 90ies, car experience develipment stopped by the end of the millenium. Whenever, once a month or so, I get into a newer car, I still get sick from the new car smell as I did as a kid and I wonder who needs all these blinking lights and assistant functions? At the ...

That's where I found MVS and really got into wrenching on my own. I really learned a lot of self-confidence and self-reliance by working on this thing, learning to master driving it, and having it take me everywhere. ... So, lots of sentimental value yes. Other than that, it's really is a great car...

Sveedy wrote: ↑Mon Jan 06, 2020 6:35 pm What ? Those are my only choices ? Nothing about the Goldilocks balance between power, comfort, style and practically ?

How stupid of me to forget the comfort. It still is teally comfortable. I guess I can't add that anymore, but should have.

Yeah, that is true. You boys got a valid point there.

So, why do you still drive a P80 Volvo after well over 20 years?

I have the old version which is secured by three bolts (shame on you Neil for making up false numbers :-) and the newer version where you replace the whole control arm. I honestly enjoyed replacing the modern version, while the old version is not that much fun to replace. The three bolts are very ti...

I have 3 of them. They are awesome! Although the print quality varies from car to car. And I think there are more color variations to come...

Another possibility, especially while or after braking, but more klicking or slight knocking: If the front calipers get worn the brake pads have too much room to move back and forth while hitting the brake and accelerating/coasting afterwards. This make a clicking or knocking aoind that is hard to d...

On your 96 the ABS light is probably triggered by a bad solder joint in the ABS module. The procedure to fix is quite easy: you basically cut the box open, resolder the pins, put it back together and seal the housing. For a good writeup search the forum. Also, you need an E5 bit to remove the ABS mo...

Besides Lucky now has to squeeze himself in there to sleep, does that mean any changes to customers? Just curious.

Since the diesel was not available overseas you might have better luck in European forums. If nothing else works, try junkyards.

Good you got it fixed! I replaced the sensor a while back as preventive maintenace, and surprisingly the connectors were okay on both my 94 and 96

also, before measuring, row through all gears slowly. at least that's what the manual claims.

maybe eerie vovo has one in stock. i think they ship nationwide.

2 things:

there is no alternative to the original MAF (should be Bosch, I think). others will throw codes.

the spark plugs on turbo cars need to be Volvo. others may be problematic even though some people get decent results with cheap plugs.

no, a 99 or 2000 head will not work as far as I know due to vvt.
a 97 or 98 high pressure turbo (the 2.3 liter, not the 2.5 liter which was low pressure turbo) should fit.

Replacement engines can be found in all T5s and Rs from 94 to 96.
Might be the easiest route to go.

Oh, that sounds like a tough year, Neil! Take your time and not your life, hope things settle after you move into the new place. One thought on the R: yeah, driving it infrequently might ruin it, but so would the 18 y/o douchebag who wrecks the angle gear on his third burnout after he buys it from y...

And I just wondered the other day what happened to Neil. So you moved up to the p26 Forum with the xc70, I guess.

Do you still have the R? How is it?

Interesting idea.

As for the sunroof: I am quite sure there is a way to override the motor with a hex key. I will try to check the manual later and update here.

Also: you mentioned you have safety cables on your hood latches. what do you mean with that? can you please post a photo? Thanks

Now you caught me redhanded, Steve...

Turkeymurderers ...

erikv11 wrote: ↑Tue Nov 26, 2019 11:19 pm Also, a car is not a hula hoop. And a car is not a grilled cheese sandwich!

Wiser words were never spoken ...

+1 for fluid film.

You definitely have a stuck rear right caliper. If you decide to fix it up - the frame looks alright to me from what the photos show - you definitwly have to deal with rust protection as others already mentioned.

your T4 is AT? How is it holding up? Mabe the V6 gas had less torque than the 5cyl diesel, but here the golden rule is never to buy a T4 or T5 with an AT. A friend of mine had problems with the AT in his T4 and another buddy just got rid of his T5 with weird AT problems.

I think a good bodyshop could be able to fix that. I think abscate has a body with even the right color to get rid off if you go the used parts route.
Does the tailgate still open once you remove that Hundai thing? If so, does it hinge up and down correctly?

Amazing she didn't file for divorce after that. Elizabeth must really love you...

I like that red on your T4. mine is darkgreen and has a diesel so loud my ears want to fall off.

I might have missed that. But did you ever replace the wastegate diaphragm? I get way better and more constant boost since replacing it. The hole was barely noticeable, but it leaked boost big time.

It really is amazing how much detail engineering went into the p80s.

Only the manual Rs had the 16T and M4.4. The automatic Rs in 96 still had the 15G and M4.3. Also, I had been told by reliable sources that a swap to M4.4 on European 850ies might cause trouble with ABS and AC. Another thing: I am almost certain that the T5-R and R (at least the automatic one) had B5...

Interesting fun fact: They sold late 1996 Volvo 850s with AWD and the 193hp 2.5T over here. They were quite rare.

Steve, you're being rough on this guy. At least I can tell you he has a Volvo and a problem. And that it was running fine.
Now let's go and help him!
If we get it going again he can attend the 'Derek Zoolander School for kids that can't read well'.

Problems in cars rarely ever cure themselves. This being said, give it a shot and try to resolder the module. It is fairky simple.
If it works and you can return the new unit, you saved yourself a few hard earned kronors.

I thought the P80 V70 3rd brakelight was LED. What else coulb be that tiny and bright with only 3W (if I remember the value on the V70 bulb indicator assembly correctly)?

I'd start by pulling the instrument cluster and disassembling it. Maybe this reveals something.

it kinda amazes me there are no solutions out there to fix a problematic OBD reading. Wait, VW found something, maybe they are willing to share their knowledge ...

Hang in there! It might be just an easy thing. New cars mean lots of dollars or new problems.

The big 302 mm brakes will not clear the 15 inch rims. But they are rare. If you have them, buy new smaller discs and sell the adapter brackets. That should get you rolling.

Interestingly, my 94 T5 wagon is very comfy with its 16 inch wheels. Maybe that is because the shocks and springs are well worn in and my reference 96R with the 17 inch wheels and Volvo sport suspension is really harsh. But, try to play with the tire pressure. Don't go too low of course, that is dan...

Not sure if you do it frequently, but getting these bricks airborne breaks the motor mounts. Just saying ...

Would it help if I tried this with my M4.3 T5M?
Just wondering because you should have ME7 and ETM and coilpacks.

yes. there should be instructions in the manual.
i'm not bear the car so I can't look it up

Gdelamare92 wrote: ↑Sun Nov 10, 2019 7:32 am Must have been a glitch in the matrix.

More likely water or dirt getting up to the pnp swirch shorting it our or sthg. Good luck it stays away. If the problwm returns, the PNP is a suspect.

Don't worry, Cookeh, there are alot of parts that can fail till you have everything replaced. So you won't have too much money left over to go binge drinking after your govt. finally decides to leave Europe

Just a general word of advice: if you have a car that old, it always pays off to inspect fluid stains under the car unless it is a hat day and the AC was on. Also, it weirds oit people if you crawl on the floor licking and sniffing fluids... As for the fuel leak: as others said, check the huge nut t...

I have the factory RIP in my 94 T5 and it works really nice. Since it is a manual car and my 96 is automatic and an R I can't really compare because I think the performance gain on the 94 comes from the short 1st gear. Honestly, you will definitely get way more bang for the buck out of a good tune. ...

interesting that the mileage is stored in the cluster. thanks for the detailed explanation. if you have the VDO cluster you have to pull it and wait a few days (had mine within 4 days) or buy both versions. that sucks. I think the 15 gear unit is more common because when I ordered my first gear for ...

Eu market doesn't have those odometer gears for 850 and shipping from U.S costs more than the whole gear kit from ipd or fcp. Misha, it is available in the EU: Skandix.de has the odometer gear, costs about 15 Euro and then probably around 15 more to ship. There are three versions. I just ordwred on...

if it is a 96 MY: check the big black insulated wires that run to the ABS module. The insulation tends to crack on these wires, oipening up room for corrosion. A few months back my ABS light came on after already resoldering the module twice a few years ago. Upon inspection, the insulation had crumb...

what year is your T5? 96 up or earlier? I'd definitely check the front rings and also again for bad wires. for years my 95 had the issues you describe intermittently, usually triggered by rotating the steering wheel to full lock. So there must have been stress to the wire or connector. Maxbe lift th...

scot850 wrote: ↑Thu Nov 07, 2019 10:16 am Looks like tire dating is being used. Workweek and year but 81? Maybe a misread or day of year?

Neil.

Neil, I read 14/12 and 17/08. Where is that 81 coming from? Am I missing something?

just wondering: could a bad plug ruin a good coil pack?

I was born being on standby ...

This is clearcoat peeling and isn't caused by winter but by extended UV exposure. Most 90ies Cars in Cali I've seen look like that. It was an issue with early waterbased basecoat-clearcoat paints. The only known cure is to sand down to the basecoat and repaint. The sad thing is that usually a short ...

1. I'd try to glue the mesh with sealant, shoe goo ir alike.

2. I doubt there is an aftermarket clip. This would be a typical junkyard or dealer item if they still have it.

I'd guess you just have to pry it off with a screwdriver.

Thanks, I will take a look at the wires and the charging system. I guess the battery symbol only comes on if the charging system is really bad, not if it is starting to be on it's way out.

A few months back the battery was quite empty I guess and after starting the 96 R after a shirt drive to back up into the garage a few random dash lights came on. I recharged the battery, all lights were gone. Today in the morning it felt slowish on startup, thought batzery about empty from sitting ...

I ran Mobil 1 0w-30 in my R for a year. That cured the ticking. Then I switched to 5W-40 since I don't drive it in winter anymore. The standard T5 uses 5-40 or 10-40, depending on what I have in stock.

Try running synth oil for a while and keep the revs beyond 4k frequently. this cured the ticking on both of my T5s

I extended the exhaust tip and added a few pounds of dynomat to the spare wheel area and wheel wells.
That helped.

ME7 is the 99 up motor management system as opposed to Motronic 4.3 and 4.4 in previous years.

Thanks! Thomas from TME Sweden got back to me within 3 hours on this saturday morning which is quite amazing. he suggested the same thing as you did, Steve (sounds like a conspiracy to me if two people tell you the same...) and mentioned that the exhaust tip has to stick out beyond the rear bumper a...

Other idea: I think there used to be tubes that you could run in tires to fix the initial problem of your leaking rim.

After installing my TME stainless steel 2.5 catback exhaust in my 96 R wagon i am getting an annoying drone from the rear in the 2k rpm range. If I can't get rid of this I will have to put the old one back in. Does anyone of you have an idea how to fix that? P.S. The build quality is awesome and the...

These mirror joysticks tend to get dirty underneath. Try wiggling them back and forth for a while. This should free them up.
You might wanna try spraying WD40 in there as well.

As RickHaleParker said: First a good Stage 0 including Timing Blet, PCV system ignition, all vacum hoses etc. Then you´ll need a freeflowing exhaust, possibly a 3 inch downpipe and a good Tune. BSR has kits, ARD and VA5T have custom tunes. THis should get you close to 300hp. More would blow upt the ...

Interesting project, but I gues you´d need almost unlimited funds and great fab skills.
This is not going to be easy. This is not going to be fun!

No matter where the idea comes from.... it's a good one 😉. Next question: Why do I even need the Main Fuel Pump Relay? Pwr comes as constant 12v direct from car battery. It is constantly on and 12v on both sides of contacts 30 and 85. So why can't I just "hard wire" past this relay and have done w ...

crlande wrote: ↑Thu Oct 17, 2019 2:59 pm Sounds like someone else is also watching SMA you tube videos! He uses the bulb trick to check his customers wiring.

nope, it just made sense and was the only thing I could test the pump/wiring with after my wife got stranded with the 854 in the middle of nowhere.

static balancing is better than nothing, but just that.
If you want to make use of the speed the T5 can provide, have them rotation balanced.

a friend of mine had a static balancer way back in his shop, and it was alright, but far from good.

Nissens is good. I have three of them. Be sure to spray the large bolts that hold the radiator in place thoroughly with penetrating oil before and while doing the job. The thread into round nuts (good choice, Volvo) that are tack welded to the radiator support. I have broken off these nuts on occasi...

update: seems like VDO is OE. Can someone confirm that?

if you want to make sure the wiring harness or relais or fuses are at fault, connect a 12V bulb to the wires that go to the fuel pump. if it doesn´t light up, you definitely have a wiring/fuse issue. if it does, the pump or connector to the pump is at fault.

that way you double check the problem.

Brining up this old topic:

Who was OEM for the crank position sensor?

Thanks, Clemens

Thanks!

So this thing rusted through. it is alot worse on the passenger side. does anyone have a partsnumber for this? Also, how do I access the bolts if they break? I hope they won't but on this rustbucket i have little hope... i know someone had this problem before, but I can't remeber how he fixed it. th...

and don't forget about the PCV system. This could be due for a cleanup at this mileage. Search for the glove test to find out if necessary. But as stated before, the timing belt is high up on the priority list since these are interference motors. otherwise, enjoy the ride. one more thing: since this...

BTW this is a green T5R wagon that is way rare. Robert DYI refers to it as an unicorn. Are you refering to dark green? This is said to be the last run of T5Rs. They had 500 of them made. They are a quite common in Europe. Maybe you didn't receive alot of them, but here, they are not that rare. I've...

It could be the rear axle bushing that connects the rear axle to the frame. If you replace it be sure to buy OE quality or you will be replacing it in very short time again. They are pricey but last forever. The job is nasty to do, I let my indie do it. This is the good quality part: https://www.ipd...

the 96 and 97 Volvo OBD2 is kinda weird. most obd readers cannot communicate with it if I remember correctly. i always have a Volbo dealer read the codes if any appear. the service light comes on after a year or xx.xxx miles. It reminds you of the annual service. The lights to worry about are the dr...

Don´t you have just sticks? That doesn´t count ...

abscate wrote: ↑Wed Oct 02, 2019 5:44 am

Clemens wrote: ↑Tue Sep 10, 2019 8:02 am yes, all 4 speeds. the 5 speeds are fragile, of course

My 5 speeds aren’t fragile...

Have you disconnected the battery for an hour or so? I think this should clear most codes. But maybe I'm wrong.

what can one do to prevent this? flush the coolant?

one more thing for tonight: even if there are different opinions on this - the coolant level on these cars goes up and down a bit. but especially on the turbo cars, the level varies. half a reservoir might be within limit. also, check if you have coolant stains somewhere around the coolant hose clam...

Those compression numbers are not really great because they are uneven, but at least you have compression on all 5. 3 possibilities among others: 1. worn pistons rings 2. bad head gasket 3. exhaust valve partially burnt or clogged with carbon debris keep driving, keep an eye on the coolant level. if...

as for the catback: i am going to install a tme exhaust one of these days. this one is said to be quite quiet with a TÜV certified reduction of back pressure by 75 percent. these cars, like most older older Turbos, have a significant turbo lag and really get going above 4000 rpm. but, the stick shif...

So, thing is: An R model, because of the stiff suspension, will rattle way more at 200.000 km or miles than a stock suspension Volvo. It's a fact. I have 3 cars to back up that theory. you might have broken dashboard mounts. this causes bad rattling. An important factor with the 17 inch wheels and t...

the worst ones are usually the upper mount close to the firewall and the one next to the crank pulley. the fluid filled hydraulic ones are usually pretty tough.

the only thing that comes to mind: are the motor mounts shot?

so even if fcp backs up their calipers with a lifetime warranty they still have shitty calipers? interesting business model.

i think the package claims 20 hours of driving and it was quite some more than that. I don't use my car every day since i work from home, so maybe that was the reason why it took so long.

p.s. i had around 190.000 miles on the clock when i used ATP.

before going through that hassle, give ATP 205 a shot. my RMS stopped leaking 6 weeks after adding ATP 205. it's been 2 or 3 years of boost-spirited driving and it's been good so far.

Doesn't FCP sell any nice calipers? If they fail, they are backed with a lifetime warranty.
Also, if available in the states, the Bosch calipers ate said to be good. but who knows if everything in a Bosch box is really Bosch.

stupid question: what is different on the AWD models turbo wise?

I´d guess the front strut mounts as well. you don´t necessarily feel them being shot with the car on the ground until they are really really shot.

yes, all 4 speeds. the 5 speeds are fragile, of course

Evita looks way better than the van and that white econobox...

Returning to the original question: I don't think there's anything wrong in particular what you did. Maybe this time try finding a donor car with a running tranny, they can be found dirt cheap depending on where you live. If you go the junkyard route, try to find one out of a wrecked car. Because if...

I've had a Gates on for 4 years and it still tracks nicely. Conti is probably better because OE.

and opposed to the earlier post: these trannies do NOT necessarily go out around 100k.
my 96R has 200.000 miles on the dirst tranny (knock on wood) as well as my 95 10V with the same mileage. I know quite some people with high mileage 850ies on their first AT.

what about the intake manifold gasket? if there is a leak, it will run horrible.
are all the injectors seated and connected properly?

on my 94 without bumpstops on the a-arms it did rub. and that was without lowering springs. I believe that they didn't rub on the S70, because that was the standard size for S70ies, at least for the european market. Blast, that's annoying. In 205/50/16 the only two premium tyre choices I have are t...

Nice! Those E39 audio systems are tricky. My dad's 528iT has the worst sounding stereo ever... makes my SC-901 4x50w setup sound incredible! I had looked into BavSound upgrades, but they're pricey. I actually decided not to buy an E39 528 in great shape for 2grand because of that awful stereo. I th...

To go back to the age old tyre questions, can I fit 205/55/R16 tyres on my 850 or will it rub? My car is lowered 30mm presently, and the change to 55 from 50 profile will add 10mm diameter to the sidewall height. 50 profile tyres are getting tricky (read expensive) to find in the UK and are limitin...

try to clean put all the water under the carpet with alot of rags unless you like rust and mould. Also: unless you have just worked on your coolant system, as soon as your reservoir is completely empty you should not just add water and keep driving. chances are extremely high something is broken. Th...

misha wrote: ↑Thu Aug 29, 2019 2:49 pm
What was the problem with yours ECC,Clemens?

out of the blue, my fans would start ramping up and down, the temperature was very inconsistent and i had a bunch of codes that I can't remember.

as far as I know the ECC units are interchangeable regardless of the model year. at least in my case my 95 received a different year ECC and everything worked nicely again

Sounds horrible. could it be bad ignition components? when did you replace the wires, plugs, rotor etc.? Also, the startup sounds creepy as well. Which would make me think of the ignition as well. Well, to be honest it's been a while since I replaced the components. But the ignition is working fine...

there has to be a fuse. it might be hidden in a different circuit, though. according to this link it should be fuse 35:

http://www.volvotips.com/index.php/850- ... ce-manual/