Volvo Forum + help for owners

I'll do it, I think it's the only remaining (really) leak on this car. It was tricky because it drips and blows back, the hose itself just damp where it meets the lower fitting. But I finally caught it dripping on the lower radiator hose so there it is, and it's the original. Looks like the line com...

It looks like the easiest one to replace, I did an oil cooler line while back. Do I need to drain anything? It's silly expensive of course.

The one I need to replace looks like this one, transmission yes thanks. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... 70-3507931

The one that is leaking is the drivers side exit line that attaches to the radiator right above the rad hose. Its short and looks accessible. I'm hoping to pluck it off there without too much angst. Think I can do that without draining anything beforehand? Thanks. 96 850t.

Old thread or did someone say that already? Not a bad subject to review, though.

In reality you are far too modest. I'll start with the salvage yard car to orient myself, as I can still lock and unlock mine (for now).

Yikes. I was hoping to "pop" the one out of the 95 and in to mine but looks like it will actually require some thought.

96 855 the rear hatch lock is loose and I hear broken ? pieces inside. What is the best way to replace it (decent 855 @ Picnsave) for replacement if needed. Amazingly, it still manages to lock the hatch itself, it's just flopping around though.

I have a set of 855 96 springs with 40k miles on them, in VA. As always, shipping will be the major expense. I'll never put them on my wagon it's "springing along" just fine with a gazillion miles on it. Bilstein shocks.

Thanks, I saw the other posts, looks great. I could just re-cover mine but...I still need to remove the roof liner. Maybe I'll pull as many plastic pillars/trim pieces from the picnsave, with the assumption I'll break a bunch of stuff, and go for it.

Will a V70 2000 headliner fit an 855? I want to replace the entire roof liner, pulling it out the back. There appear to be minor trim changes in models, I wonder if that matters. Are the V70 headliners more robust, somehow? Is the sunroof plastic trim piece still available from Volvo? Maybe later mo...

Who cares about the P80's they are old hat. How's the Eurovan?

That's one to get tight, easy one to forget, thanks.

Excellent.

I believe the one you refer to is longer and has a different thread pattern from the others. It has to be snugged down nicely, so you'll pretty much need the identical screw. Someone else might chime in. I think I have a couple somewhere. Did you lose yours?

This is a very sensitive test, if no products of combustion present in the coolant no color change of the reagents. The idea here is that you test, if negative, then you can move on in your thinking. The video was provided for the principle involved, not because it's what you are experiencing. I las...

Get to your nearest auto store and rent a block tester which will sniff for products of combustion in the coolant. I had to buy the small bottle of reagent, 8 bucks or so. My 850t at times appears to blow lot's of condensation from the tailpipe which for my car I know is "normal". I'd look to a defi...

Or you can have my orange ones, freebies. Ran fine when removed a year ago. But it won't be "just" the injectors. The whole car will need a redo. If you want a vehicle to tinker with, do it. Any plans for a daily driver out of the starting gate unlikely.

Volvo OE headlight glass, pair, front and rear bumpers complete, red covers, misc intake, coolant hoses, OE very low miles radiator one broken mounting tab,15g turbo no cracks but shaft play, IAC, 4 orange injectors with FPR for 850t, 2 stock exhaust manifolds from turbo model no cracks, right sided...

+1 on orientation of the cage, note the fat and thin ends and replace exactly as they exist. They will pop off otherwise. "Note the clip has a THICK and THIN side: the THICK side goes toward the radiator" as previously posted by cn90. Do not buy these after marketed.

https://duckduckgo.com/?t=ffab&q=robert+diy+heater+core+removal&iax=videos&ia=videos&iai=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DOdKzDfvOoQA I'd use a plastic bag, it works fine. Maybe 500mls of coolant, something more? Don't disturb the coolant pipes as they course through the firewall, be gent...

https://duckduckgo.com/?t=ffab&q=robert ... 4g-w4OXeBw

Not much Volvo content but need a shipper, east-west to LA. Advice?

Doubt you still have this, but if so, I'll take it, 24015. Thanks! Richard

Yes, look for torn intake manifold gasket near # 5 cylinder. Sounds like you have an air leak, a large one. Even more likely as you describe no such issues prior to taking on the PCV. Has to come apart, unfortunately. Take a long look at the intake manifold gasket as has been suggested.

I rarely use less than 91 octane gas. Especially after my valve rebuild. If your code comes back instantaneously after a hard reset, use your scan tool to erase it.

Lot's of info on this subject available by search, I asked a similar question a couple of weeks ago. Ultimately I pulled a battery cable, let it sit 2 hours, reconnected, CEL immediately appeared, off it went with my scan tool not back yet. Any other codes, or unusual behavior? If not try a hard res...

Smoke test for vacuum leaks if possible. Back to basics. Compression test look at plugs, etc. Ultimately, can be hard to tell about blue smoke. Put together a few more clues to guide you.

Are these codes related? Linked in any way?

96 850t runs fine. P0422 popped up a couple of weeks ago, cleared it. Returned today accompanied by P0326. No detected performance problems. Remind me where to look first? Thanks.

Pop the strut bar off, just takes a minute.

Great looking car. Wish I ever owned a car that used .5L oil every 4k km's, including brand new ones. You might make it easy and start with Marvel Mystery Oil, (? mineral spirits and ATF no fuss) directly in cylinder 2, let sit for 1-2 days, pull the fuel pump relay, crank a bit, add .5L to the fuel...

I'm actually trickle charging. Somehow, I feel more comfortable not using both battery posts for that purpose, but can't say about the science behind that thinking. BTW, okay to trickle charge leaving both battery cables connected, charger clip to the positive battery post, negative to the bolt on t...

Silly question, does anyone see a problem using the bolt holding the blue cable in front of the battery as a chassis ground while charging the battery? It will function as my negative battery terminal, in other words.

Go to your local salvage yard and pluck them off any Mercedes Benz.

Pull the head, inspect all valves, replace the ones that don't look healthy, re-use the others, replace all valve guide seals and hit the road. A good shop, moonlighting mechanic, etc should be able to do this for around 1600 bucks, depending on labor rates in your area. Worked great for me.

Get the OEM Volvo 0 rings and clips, and install the clips exactly as the old ones were prior to removal. They will not hold otherwise. To be safe, put a clamp over each clip, IMO.

Where outside is the smell the strongest? Rollover valve is right rear.

Is it a fresh gas smell? Probably suggested already, check the hoses to the rollover valve to see if they are intact. That was my source.There is either a gasoline leak or fumes from the vent system doing this. Usually pretty easy to find out which. Follow your nose, front or rear of the car? Tank a...

Look through the major forum topics then decide, specifically look at what it takes to get to stage zero. Unless you are willing to spend $$$ and tons of time on a 98-99 V70 look for something else. You could buy one and make it a project, just can't count on driving it as your sole vehicle. Find an...

Almost certainly something that is driven by a belt is making this noise. Run down the list of those possibilities, remove TB cover, etc. There aren't very many. Cut the end off an old broomstick as a stethoscope to narrow down the field. I'd be very surprised if changing the trans fluid makes this ...

Am looking in to the Autotrain, from Sanford Fla to Lorton, VA. Will check with them regarding vehicle particulars. 1989 VW Vanagon! Auto Train is reasonably priced, for sure. Amblerman's experience mirrored mine several years back, not bad, but had to arrange pick up off the interstate, etc. Dates ...

No Volvo content but I thought I'd try to slip this in. Need to ship from Tampa Fla to central VA, any recommendations for shippers? I do know that many companies are brokers, not shippers themselves, which can be tricky. It's been years since I've shipped a car and my info is now dated. Thanks!

Yeah, my failed t stat had Volvo on the bottom, but design was entirely different from the Wahler replacement. They could still make the Volvo ones, though. Thanks for advice. Problem solved!

Volvo OEM as seen in this video. Mine broke in exactly the same way. Replaced it today with a Wahler, whose internals appear much more robust. Maybe Volvo should no longer be the go to for thermostats anymore. 2 years for me. Looks like a design flaw.

Thanks, will do, absolutely. Disappointed in life of the last replacement. I do carry a spare, time to fish it out. Have a great holiday, everyone.

I've been away from the car for a few months and don't recall these fluctuations in the past. Temp gauge always has been in the middle, with no memory of it ever dropping below that.T stat is maybe 2-3 years old, max. OEM Volvo. Heat appears somewhat to be erratic and dependent on what kind of drivi...

96 855t, very variable operating temps, is this normal? Long uphill climb, 36 degrees out, 200+F degrees, downhill same climb temp drops to 150 degrees, in a very few minutes. Gauge drops down from middle position. General cruising temps 180's, again about 40 degrees outside, pretty consistent. T st...

Didn't watch all of it, might be useful for you. Several similar videos around. Looks like this motor is an NA version.

Went to replace headlight bulb (96 850) and found wires on drivers side bare, with cracked and crumbled sheathing. Looked at the right side and found the same thing. If you haven't looked at these wires in a long time you might want to do so. I'm surprised I hadn't shorted out the light, burned some...

What was the outcome here? How did the job go in the end?

I think he refers to the short ones fastening the cover on, the side ones? Can't quite remember now. They are in the trunk, avoiding the elements, the 10mm ones. Anyway, no matter, replace or not, just don't lose them if reusing, which is what I did.

I was able to unhook the tailpipe from the rubber donut and move the entire unit to the side, enough to access the long bolt.

Unless you lose them (or one) they can be reused. They aren't on tight and come off easily, clean and use again is fine. But, if you're ordering the long ones, may as well I suppose.

That's a decent price, though there is shipping. I think I paid close to twice that at local dealer, regretting immediately that I hadn't sourced from local hardware, etc. My local dealership charges retail for everything, crazy expensive.

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Check crank case ventilation pressure "glove test" change oil and filter x 2 over the next few hundred miles, (arguable), cheap oil and filters, drive! Then appropriate to climate synthetic and correct filter and see if lifter noise goes away. You may be due for oil pick up tube gasket repair at som...

If it's in the shop for the sway bar let them do it. IIRC one of those bolts sits right on top of the rear exhaust pipe, and takes a beating from all that heat. Odds are you will break one of the two off, which I of course did. I replaced with two new ones, genuine Volvo, 11-12 bucks a piece, maybe?...

Sent you a PM.

Second the distinct possibility of an air leak at the intake manifold, ie the gasket. It can tear most easily in the upper right corner when replaced, I believe around the upper stud located there, but that is from memory. If it was running fine before taking on this job you will need to retrace you...

Thanks. Yes, might not be a miraculous improvement adding a rear bar. Have a strut bar also ( I realize the controversy) but hoping the combination, strut bar and rear sway will make for an improvement. Not a huge investment if I find a used rear bar, or even go for a new one from Volvo. Haven't spe...

Forgotten what people think on this subject. It's a wagon 850t with a tight suspension overall. Does handle a bit on the sloppy side when headed in to turns (feels like a boat, basically). Pros and cons to a rear sway bar, where to find one and what size should it be? How much is it likely to help w...

Check your fuel pressure, or have someone do it before going any further.

No aftermarket replacement here, OEM only for ECT.

Check engine light is not on because of a recent, or otherwise oil change. Have a shop, or parts place Autozone, etc. run the codes. Go from there. Otherwise, advice provided thus far is a starting point.

May be minor differences between 98 and earlier models. Rivet replacement is a minor pain.

"Critical speed" wobble strongly suggests tire, rim problem. Should change somewhat with rotation. Check above mentioned items, have a good tire place look. They should be able to demonstrate findings to you.

2 grand or more to do it up right. Might get lucky spending less. Assuming best quality parts, unknowns along the way, and that you will stumble across something a shop will need to help you with. Example, ticking lifters means oil pan 0 rings need replacing. Think more, be happy if you get away wit...

I actually ended up using the AC Delco unit, found one, and a pigtail, inexpensively, works fine. Search ac delco tcv and Volvo 850 it pops up. But the Pierburg (updated one) looks like a great solution as well, probably the simplest one. I wouldn't hesitate to do this simple upgrade if you suspect ...

Snatch a couple of almost any Volvo your year or later and replace with OEM or IPD 0 ring. Don't drop any plastic bits in the upper motor if the cap shatters. Push down a little if you can when you rotate old one off. Penetrating oil sounds good. But if you have peeked @ the cam lobes you must have ...

My passenger motor went first, a few months later drivers side. Peering in to engine compartment, to the left of the radiator (as you know). Worth considering as it's an easy fix.

Headlight motor? Both of mine buzzed, disconnected harness, resolved. Never would have guessed until someone suggested.

Not to state the obvious, but I'll assume the injector itself isn't ticking, or clacking a bit, as it opens and closes? As pointed out, lifter tick and injector rail work aren't related. I do have an isolated single lifter tick at times myself that doesn't really correlate to anything, however, and ...

It appears that the latch mechanism itself is broken, the rod sits in it's housing but doesn't look right as I work the key in the handle. Not entirely clear how to remove the latch and housing itself after removing the door panel, which I haven't done yet. Tips?

96 850t lock works great with a fob not when the key is inserted. Feels like no resistance when I manually turn the key. Passenger side works. What is the internal problem most likely to be the culprit here?

Not successful after a few attempts, replacing the battery in remote #2, the newly acquired one will be the next step. Not eager to be in the position of losing function of both remotes, however likely/unlikely that might happen.

Not to be stupid, but I am programming an additional fob, the one I have currently works fine now. Do I have to re-program the one that already works? Or just leave it, and do the one that I just bought.

Got it thanks.

Looks like I can program multiple fobs, then? I will give the new one a try hope it doesn't screw up the working one!

Just picked up an "extra" remote locking key fob, the one I have works fine. Can I program so that both work? The FCC and other numbers match. Or do I have to use only one at a time, so to speak? Thanks.

Yes! After repairing the two broken rubber lines @ the rollover valve, (they were just hanging there), I replaced the fuel filter and voila! all is well, no gas smell, no running rich smell. A little surprised, no CEL ever. No reason to go further at this point. For now I will enjoy odor free fill u...

First finding is two broken lines to the rollover valve, so I will replace fuel filter, repair the broken lines. This is vicinity of strongest gas odor. Next I will look @ the fuel pump lines through the hatch in the back. Go from there. Thanks!

Did a little searching. Still not clear on what specifically to look at first. Would prefer that to be the simplest things, of course, but am prepared for bigger things to come. Sounds likely to be in the evap system somewhere, though. And car does runs rich. First, path of least resistance thing to...

Subject is 96 855t, 250+ k miles. Just had injectors cleaned (Mr. Injector), replaced FPR with new Bosch oem, haven't changed the filter yet, have no idea how old it is. Strong smell of raw gas ? getting worse? if you stand mid way down the vehicle on the passenger side. It's worse after a run and t...

I have a set of low miles (less than 50k) genuine Volvo front calipers for 850t, PM me. VA car, very clean. Reasonable!

New OEM filter enroute. What's the procedure for removing the fan if I need to do that? Can I get in there enough to actually clean? Never been in there (obviously).

That would be the place to start, will take a look. It's a genuine Volvo I pinched from a salvage yard. Haven't dried it out recently, or ever replaced so that's an easy one. Anyone spray bleach, other cleaner through the ac fan opening? Or something...??

850t 96, when on Auto smells like a swamp for a few minutes, then clears. Wondering what to clean, and how to get to it. Also, probably not related, exhaust smell in the cabin when on Auto. Thanks! BTW I should add doubt any drain lines are plugged up. Just cleaned and checked everything last spring...

Keep that car! It's a really nice one if I recall. But you said you would, only I couldn't agree more. You were do for a head gasket (sooner than later) anyway.

Part # 0 280 161504, new never used for non turbo 850, at the fuel rail. See link for a pic. It has a black 0 ring not a green one. Don't know what that means. I would double check that the one on there is the correct one. This will not fit the turbo models, all 850's, 98's possibly if N/A. No Bosch...

If you can afford it go OE on this one as well.
https://www.ipdusa.com/products/5416/11 ... -1994-1998

Step back a bit and think basics and don't get lost in the possibilities. After warming, unplug each wire from it's designated spark plug and listen for arcing, see if car runs obviously on one less cylinder. You may have done this. Then as suggested in other posts go directly to compression test. B...

Might be a silly question but are you running on all 5 cylinders? Coolant temp sensor and wire harness look good?

These should be easy to find, someone here probably has one they will part with. Salvage yards, erievolvo.com, etc. Find a used oem Bosch if possible rather than aftermarket. Maybe someone else has suggestions. Are you sure yours is bad?

Thanks, everyone. Looking forward to this repair!

The more I think about all this, I realize this car has also probably been running a bit rich, smells like it, especially after starting up. So, I'll check vacuum lines to FPR and probably swap my spare one, reset ECU, etc. after. See if that solves the problem. Thanks! Unless anyone has anything el...

I assume that's the line with the white plastic tubing and rubber elbow end?

Well, the only thing I do notice is small amount of hesitation under throttle when cold, lasts maybe 15 seconds then is gone. Probably present over a year or so, not obviously worsening. Fuel pump maybe has 75k miles on it, Volvo OEM. No vacuum leaks noted. Swapped out a few FP relays, no change. Wh...

I smell gas near the FPR, recently replaced the short hose to the fuel line itself thinking it might be shot. I still smell gas at or near that site after a decent length drive. Pretty sure it isn't coming from the fuel injectors themselves. When I replaced the hose there was only a drop or so of fu...

Not like you need another suggestion but www.davebarton.com has tons of Volvo bits especially focused on older models.

The newer ones appear to be plentiful. I'll either go with them or do the hardware store/Mcmaster thing. I took a beautiful bumper from a parts car, both bolts destroyed in the process. There is a chance yet that the ones on my car, one off them anyway might survive and I'll use it as a template for...

Find it @ a good hardware or from Volvo? Thanks for the reply.

Will be replacing my bumper brackets and need the 14mm bolts that secure bumper to frame. These are the upright bolts that break off when removal is attempted. Found a replacement PN 982831 but it is 10mmx130mm.Will it work? The one removed was 14mm.

Well said. I'd be extra kind to the honest motorist, for sure. My brother scratched the finish (barely visible) on a bumper, left a note, the owner of the quite new BMW insisted the dealer do the repair cost him over 1500 bucks. Take away message for him was next time don't step up to the plate, alb...

Pennzoil Platinum full synthetic 10 bucks rebate so after that around 12 bucks for 5 quarts, until the end of the year. Xerex G05 coolant 13 bucks concentrate, 11 bucks premix @ Walmart on line. I hate doing business with Walmart and Amazon, but these are about the only exceptions I spend money on t...

EM one piece metal gasket Volvo OEM part # 8699467 fits all 5 cylinder engines with the pictured above corner removed. 10 bucks or so.

Ok, thanks. A tuner like ARD?

I think for certain applications you will need the mm hoses as the subtle difference will matter. Maybe for the smaller diameter hoses? If I recall.

Looks like a marginal improvement with some potential risk.
So maybe leave well enough alone.

TB "upgrade" must include the NA intake manifold which is necessary for fitment of the TB itself as I understand it. I forgot to mention I have an "R" exhaust manifold along with a 3" down pipe. I'm nervous about interfering as it runs great now. If in springtime if I'm highly motivated I might do t...

This upgrade is under consideration for my 96 855t. Currently has 3" down pipe, stock otherwise. I have all the needed parts for the TB upgrade. From what I gather, there is the possibility that I will need a dyno tune to adjust for the change in air/gas ratio with the larger throttle body. So, what...

120 bucks is a lot. 35 bucks from salvage. If using sealer hit the 4 corners hard and clean well, I expect it's the corners where the leak(s) are. Might get it done for a few bucks. Seal well around the bolt insert areas. Don't over tighten or you will crack the housing.

Thanks, my drivers looks like yours did.

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Nothing takes 10 minutes to do, basically. The bolt is a little tricky to get to IIRC, and you need a few angled tools to facilitate removal. Be careful not to cross thread when installing. Clean it up well. Don't do it before you have to pick up your kids or rush anywhere, though pretty easy like e...

OK, I see that now, thanks.

Disclaimer: I know nothing about what I'm about to say but is everyone convinced that your noise is rack related? If that is the opinion, explain to me so I understand. Rack replacement is not cheap nor for the faint of heart if you tackle it yourself.

One of two videos that will tell you what you need to know.

As Abscate has pointed out a few times in the past you can dump lots of coolant in the passenger side foot well without soaking the carpet. The thick matting underneath will soak it up before you notice wetness on the surface. Not to say it isn't leaking from some other location but this is a well r...

When you are bored make the new harness. You will never (basically) look back. I taped everything up temporarily but was never comfortable with that as a final solution. Nice work on the diagnostics.

Yes, thanks. I've replaced every vacuum line with silicone ones within the last year or so, checked intake to inter-cooler, etc. Doesn't mean a clamp hasn't loosened, though. One of my least favorite things to do is check all these connections, again and again! I'm hoping to find a loose spark plug ...

Will look carefully at # 2 wire and plug first, thanks.

https://www.obd-codes.com/p0302 has answered all questions, probably the most succinct explanation ever written. I might start by making sure the plug isn't loose in the hole, go from there.

http://www.240turbo.com/bulletfemalenew.jpg It looks like this, no? I've forgotten it was a while back. E-mail him and ask. Look for this under the Volvo harness parts you will need the pigtail connectors as well. Take a close look at yours, which will likely disintegrate on contact, as mine did, br...

Can't answer all questions but this is where I got my connectors: www.davebarton.com. Soldered a nice new arrangement that will last me the life of the car. Pay attention to the proper way to open and close the sealed plug housings, he has illustrations.

96 850t. Does idle a little rough. I think under boosting probably, unrelated to code maybe. 0302 indicates miss fire cylinder 2, I believe. All Volvo oem tune stuff within last 15k miles or so. Places to look first? Just erased the codes, waiting to see what happens. No interventions on my part yet...

Nice. The ravages of NE weather are apparent. My car has basically never left the south in foul weather, and the undercarriage reflects that. Always makes things easier! Thanks for the write up.

I was never fully convinced it actually needed replacing, I'll never know now. All good until this summer, now less cold than last year, so something is up again. But just doesn't blow cool enough, no gap related symptoms. The OP sounds like a clutch-gap problem, yes.

I got a couple of seasons out of the wire fix, then had to replace the compressor. It was the original, of course.

Nice. Inadvertently I did the same thing because I lost the T25 somewhere in the process of replacing my core. What you have fashioned looks to be a stronger fix.

http://www.mrinjector.us/
These guys are good, IME.
Done a few Audi's for me.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L4g-w4OXeBw This is the short version, more detailed version exists. PPI is necessary no matter what, unless you can do it all yourself on the fly out of state. State inspection will probably be close to useless, as has been pointed out. I'd say forget it considering ...

Can't wait to go through MD, NJ so I can tank up. On my way to NYC next week, so I'll get my chance.

www.ultra-gauge.com. Thought I'd comment on this thing which I really like, 96 855t. I realize it doesn't give me complete "real time" readings but it comes pretty close. Love it during hot weather as it does give you the coolant temp, which fluctuates under different driving conditions, and will te...

I now drive mine everywhere with minimal concerns, multiple 1000mile trips, etc. Thinking about replacing the alternator, summer will add stress, it is original, realizing even the Bosch rebuilds will be less good than what came in the car. Also, never been in the oil pan and done the seals there, a...

Yeah that is interesting, thank you. In MD frequently but avoid gas there as it is so much more expensive than in VA.

I think so, thanks.

If I decide to do anything, once I have removed the injectors is it established practice to replace the injector seals and 0 rings?
I have had them out of the rail before, when I did my PCV and never replaced any seals?

Probably over 220k, original to 96 850t. No apparent problems, maybe slight rough starts but runs well, no hesitation, good under acceleration. Will there be any benefit, as I go through this car, to having them flow tested, cleaned, replaced? Or do I leave well enough alone.

Warm it up first? Hair dryer?

Mine was exact same issue, passenger side, as stated above, broken plastic sleeve on damper motor shaft. Repaired it (on line search) still good a year later, anyway. Easy fix and easy to get at.

Nice fix, happy end of story.

PM sent.

I guess I'm one too...though I'll defend myself by saying I was in there anyway and the ones I took out were 20 years old. Reminder, though to think of everything else first.

Yes, probably never needed replacing in the first place. Runs great now, if I don't post again it's because things continue to be well and no more P0325. I will attribute code to bad engine mounts as it has otherwise been running like clockwork. Thanks.

I've chased this code for a while, though I replaced both knock sensors (Bosch) while intake was off to service PCV 2 years ago, 1996 850t. Started coming on again at random. Had both front and rear engine mounts replaced which were in need. Other mounts I did myself a while back. Car runs very smoo...

Everything should be tight, all hoses are silicone, CBV is 2 years old. But always good to pressure test to eliminate anything unexpected, and I will do that. I've convinced myself the solenoid is the problem, but I will be methodic. Stage 0 completed and meticulous. Good to be reminded.

Mine is just very tired, well over 220k miles. Car suffers from considerable lag on acceleration. So, I figure it's the next step, and overdue. All other turbo bits and hoses are in good shape.

Probably not interchangeable, you're right, otherwise unless upgraded why have a different unit. Mine is tired I'm sure. I have an AC-Delco unit and instructions on how to modify, so might try that.

https://www.ebay.com/p/98-99-Volvo-V70- ... 7802899&Is it possible to use the later model solenoid on my 850t? I've asked before and I think I can, having looked over my previous post below. Anything else to add?

Lots of useful info on this thread, very nice.

If the caliper you have is oem original, and proves to be okay after you've done the above troubleshooting I would not replace it. Some rebuilds are terrible, and will not last more than a year or so. Replacing a good working caliper with a rebuild may be a lateral move at best. Can't help you with ...

Remove the bleeder screw (maybe you have already) and make sure it isn't plugged up. Then crack the line to the caliper and make sure fluid comes out of the line itself. Troubleshoot from there.

Mine separated as well, maybe because these donuts maintain air so efficiently, or just maybe a weaker structured sidewall, which is most likely. Salvage yards should be replete with 15" donuts if there are Volvo's around. The spare should be same rim size as what you have on the car, of course. I e...

Pretty cool find.

Hopefully noise will go away when serpentine belt is removed. As Neil suggested, go from there, looking for something that turns which has play, or is noisy. Next step might be to remove TB cover and inspect everything that moves and is belt related there, though sounds like alternator area is sourc...

Check crank vent system, examine plugs, do a compression test, experiment a bit with different oils, think about valve stem seals maybe later, and make sure you aren't leaking enough to make a difference. My 1 quart/1000 mile usage dropped to nothing after vent system done, then valve stem seals, wh...

Do Something like this, with the wastegate on the car. I use my brake bleeder and it's gauge to test mine. Mityvac should work. Diaphragm was broken, no vacuum, so replaced it with one from Ebay. There are numerous Youtube videos, Robert DIY links to adjusting properly, pretty easy even for me. 4.4 ...

Have been advised to do nothing for now, until I speak with Jorgen, as there is a "lifetime warranty". But yes, I have read that ATP-205 has worked, thanks.

My Jorgen Automotive rebuild appears to be leaking, but confirmation is ongoing. Not ready to condemn this piece yet. If I need to replace it, TRW vs Volvo new or rebuilt are all options. Several threads on this subject, anyone have advice? Anyone have experience with TRW racks, good brand for lot's...

"Would also be a good idea to check for vacuum leaks and unmetered air infiltration." Seems to be the lesson of the week, based on recent posts. As always, compression testing early in the diagnostic algorithm excludes the catastrophic, though nothing specifically suggests that's your culprit. All k...

Oil caps seems less important at this point but oem caps are all over the place at picnpull, and later model caps, maybe even all P2 and some later caps, fit the 850's. Might cost 2 bucks. Can't imagine the need to spend 35 bucks at the stealer for this part. Use new oem seal though.

I used davebarton.com, the source you listed, successfully. Is there any reason you don't want to use this source? A little pricey, I used a number of bits from there when I built a new harness for my coolant temp sensor, among other things. I also found a bunch @ picnpull and snapped them up, which...

Borrow a compression tester NOW as suggested, check out a few of RSPI videos on Youtube, and see what you have BEFORE you do anything more. Otherwise, you will be tossing good money and lots of time, after bad. What I learned early on working on these cars is to eliminate worst case possibilities fi...

Full synthetic.

Without starting an oil debate I point out there is again a rebate for this oil. For example, if you buy @ Walmart, which I hate, for 22 bucks, 10 rebate comes your way making a 5 liter jug cost around 11-12 bucks. I think I have this right. You'll have to find the rebate on line, easy enough to do,...

Single piece exhaust manifold gasket, oem Volvo. Fits all 5 cylinder engines I believe. Just clip the tab off at the end, I used it on my P80. 12 bucks. "Volvo Exhaust Manifold Gasket - Genuine Volvo 8699467".

I also have a set of minty grey ones from 97 GLT, fronts only. Have no use for them, just couldn't pass them up at Pic-N-Save, I'm in VA. No rears.

I have a couple I know work, I'm in VA PM me if you are interested. I assume you want a unit with a CD?

Drive it, change the oil with proper synthetic somewhere along the line soon, rinse and repeat with oil change, don't intervene other than to CONSIDER doing a compression test, oil pressure for 0 rings on sump as already suggested if you are bothered. Oil change frequency after this rebuild remains ...

I think I have an extra T Stat housing (the aluminum piece) if you need it. They are available and inexpensive, relatively, even new ones if I recall.

When at my local salvage yard I get clamps from Mercedes, mostly, as many as I feel like grabbing. 6 bucks for a box full or so. I therefore have a great selection of the best quality clamps found anywhere (ABA as well) at a fraction of the new price, and it's a rewarding task as well. I even go hom...

Pirelli P7 AS Plus, have them on the Volvo, and Honda. Great, quiet tires. Ordered them through Walmart (try hard not to often), free shipping to my local store, I think they were 100 bucks a piece, not sure they are available in the sizes you seek. Hope the 15+ year old tires you have were properly...

Nice, the Swedes are kind. Lots of warning symptoms. Not so much with Audi. Two consecutive hard starts in the morning, with just a hint of faltering on takeoff, and day # 3 you are stranded with a failed fuel delivery problem (Almost always the pump). Maybe you only get a barely perceptible falter ...

I'm guessing you can trust numbers like that because they are pretty similar and no real low ones. Not sure you need to buy another tool and repeat. Others about what to do next?

Mine are untouched and original from 96 over 230k, and I have wondered myself, if this falls in the preventative replacement category. I'm sure RSPI would say no!

Post your final outcome so we get the feedback, thanks.

Miles and fuel pump replacement history? On every car I have ever owned this is classic fuel pump badness, +- related relays. When it gets hot it is stressed, cools down and is okay for a while. If the history is unknown, get the fuel pressure properly tested. Could be some other Volvo thing but I'd...

Post the #'s here after reviewing the proper technique and someone will help guide you from there.

Compression test the car. And have a shop check engine temp when it is hot.

First pic looks like oil fouling to me, second less clear. I'd go with a compression test to try to distinguish, as suggested.

viewtopic.php?f=9&t=24805
Read all the posts. These instructions are for S60.

Hard cranking before total failure does provide clue to possible fuel pump failure. Fuel pressure testing sooner than later may avoid un-necessary $$ spent and direct you straight to the problem. You may hope that's the problem, simplifies a potentially time consuming search. Otherwise, suggestions ...

Is it a manual now? I assume not, or we would have heard.

My Swedish Car Parts hc stank no matter what, so I removed it and replaced with very low miles non discolored OE unit from Pic-n-Save. Spaghetti like strands peeking out of the bottom of the SCP unit. I'd use one for 2 years no longer, and consider it a temporizing measure. Are all Behr units the sa...

Sounds like you are done, unfortunately. However, Volvobylnb.com in Lynchburg is a huge facility that does probably a valve job a week on 5 cylinder Volvos, lots of experience. Much closer to 1500 bucks and they do great work. They will give you a loaner as well.

My indie is also a fabricator and reworked my door check mechanisms very inexpensively, but that might be the exception rather than the rule. It would be good to confirm coolant loss as heater core, for sure. Did I miss the pics? I think maybe that's why CL activity is slow. I rarely pause for ads w...

Did you say you have someone 3 miles away who can look (? fix) this thing? 3 mile tow won't cost much but not too far to go if you can safely, slowly limp along? Anything short of a new rod knock might tempt me to for a 3 miler...!

What is the source of the play according to what you see when you wiggle the wheel? Sounds like you need to get it home anyway, so selling or keeping (unless you put a 4 sale sign on it in a remote from home parking lot) will be a decision for later. Bad news, but not very bad news, at least you did...

Which bushings, do you know, maybe you can ask them to specify. Play from bad wheel bearings is important possibly urgent but don't know about need to replace "rear axle-wheel bushings" cuz I have no idea what they are. Several listers have spare MAF sensor so I'd avoid buying a new one if you can. ...

I think skloon actually, though indirectly, did answer the question. If it takes a couple of minutes only to remove these pieces, painting them off the car would likely be the easiest solution. Seems to be the consensus opinion.

Okay, I will leave it alone. As long as I can stand it, anyway...although that wasn't really my question. Despite that, I see what you are saying.

Forgot to add R manifold in place, thanks for reminding me. It does sound nice right as it is. The muffler people are incredibly good, and seem to feel they can modify with free flow muffler (Flowmaster) without adding much to the noise. I guess what I'm really wondering is does the car benefit sign...

855t is stock, stage 1 and runs like a top. I had an opportunity to install a SS 3" down pipe with cat, which "feels" great. Exhaust is stock from that point back. I was thinking of replacing the stock muffler and remaining pipe, though there is nothing wrong with them. No plans to drive it hard, I ...

They were better then than they are now.

You'll have to support the vehicle safely if you are somewhere you can do that, crawl around with a good light, some rags and find where the system is breached. How quickly did you lose your coolant? Did it all drain out? I can't load your pic because I have crappy internet at the moment. Previous s...

Thanks. Will take it by the shop on the way out of town. Gone again today but it took almost 15 minutes! for it to go away. I'm guessing they might not have marked the lifters too carefully, and one or more were installed in a different direction than when removed. I doubt changing oil viscosity wil...

Haven't verified oil pressure. Mann filter. #3 valve burned, zero compression. 3 valves total replaced, though. Was using 10w-40 Mobil 1, switched to 10-30 as above. Weather is mild here this year, so thicker oil could be used. I suppose could be pick up tube 0 ring issue, etc. Again, sounds like on...

After a valve job (I think). 2k mile after the work, seems quite evident when cold, goes away after 3-4 minutes of idle. Using 10w-30 synthetic, Pennzoil Platinum. Can't recall hearing this much before the valve work was done. Never done any seals in the oil pan, 200+k miles or so on motor. Suggesti...

I have a perfect shape downpipe and cat from stock 855t, southern car all it's life, if you are interested pm me. Not certain what laws we violate even discussing putting a used cat back on a car, much less finding someone to do it if you're not up for it.

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