Sorr but I didn’t found the absolute fix. Replaced the free wheel alternator clutch and I remembered it reduced the vibration a bit. If you do that you can’t loosen it with hand tools. And it’s a special kind of bit

Hi

Is it possible to replace the washer fluid level sensor without removing the front bumper? 2002 v70

It’s working now. Around 14,4 V right from the start up

I’m from Sweden. Probably explains it...

But regarding the car. I’ve now replaced the voltage regulator. The alternator is hard to get out of the car completely but It was possible to make the replacement without taking it out. Just by removing all the bolts

I think i’m gonna replace the voltage regulator just in case

It´s been replaced this year. I´ve found out though that there is three types of possible alternators. 120A, 140A and 160A. My is a 140A but I´m not sure if the regulator was made for that or not. Can a bad alternator cause this problem?

Strange error. Some days when I start the car it doesn´t charge. Instrument panel are a bit dim and voltage around 11.3 V. After 10 to 20 seconds the voltage goes back to normal. Like 14.4 V. No warning lights or anything.

It it somerthing in the car that regulates charging or only the voltage ...

That’s a good idea. I was just curious to know if the difference in resistence could make the heater to stop working completely.

No heated seat on drivers side. I’ve done some measurements and found that there are different ohn readings of the thermistor (yellow leads) between driver and passenger side. 4.6 kOhm on the non functional side and 9.6 kOhm on functional side. Is that the provlem and causes the module to shot down ...

I understand. Just need a tiny bit of of more space. I will try to carefully bend the sway bar to get that. Top nut is already out (and back on) so all that is left is that lower bolt. This weekends task! Thank you all! Will be back with the results