Let me see what I can do for you this afternoon.

I have a 2007 V50, AWD, M66. Let me know if you ever have any questions.

Following up: I cleaned all chassis ground connections, then disassembled and tested the fuel pump relay. The contacts were tarnished/burned - I cleaned them and re-assembled. The car regained fuel pressure and started. I suspect the failing fuel pump caused excessive current or maybe arcing across...

I was told by a Volvo repair manager (and former Master mechanic) to avoid the P3 at all costs. He basically said they are junk. Now, having said that, there was a late version I believe that was sold with the 5 cylinder engine............ Neil. Do remember any specific things they said? I can tell...

scot850 wrote: ↑19 Dec 2023, 23:46 I was told by a Volvo repair manager (and former Master mechanic) to avoid the P3 at all costs. He basically said they are junk.

Now, having said that, there was a late version I believe that was sold with the 5 cylinder engine............

Neil.

Do remember any specific things they said?

Admittedly, the P2 S60/V70 series cars are very good. As long as I buy it at low mileage such as 100K, and drive to it ~ 200K, I am happy. The cost of maintenance is low bc I virtually do everything myself using parts from Autohausaz, Rmeuropean, FCPEuro etc. This leads to the next question...event...

:evil: no Ok checked Amp draw Removed negative cable Put postive amp lead on negative cable Put negative lead on negative battery post Result 0.8 amps. Is this enough to cause this ? Also after I did this test I left the negative off for about 2 hours cause I needed to use the car. I tested the amp ...

What do you mean when you say "ecu kit"? Have you programmed the ecu to your car? They aren't plug and play.

-Eric

Make sure you don't have a parasitic draw. Perform a parasitic draw test. Your car does not need time to adjust to a new battery.

Make sure you don't have a parasitic draw first. Do a proper parasitic draw test.