Pulling Motor/Trans, couple questions Topic is solved

[benpineapple]

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=28973

I've been referencing that write-up quite a bit when researching motor removal. I have a trans leak, coming from the housing (I believe it is the seal behind the torque converter) which has been worsening, so I'm going to fix it before it gets too cold out. Also going to replace as many other seals and whatnot while I have the motor out. I am setting aside 3 days to do this, although I hope to finish the task after 2.

Couple questions from the write-up:

- Step 14 (driver's side axle removal): is the circlip necessary for replacement? I have a hard time seeing how it would be possible to reinstall if it has to get pried out with a chisel. And to remove it, is he essentially just prying it out of its groove?

- Controlling engine tilt (front/back): I will be using a load-leveller, so I'm not too concerned about side to side tilt, mostly front/back. I see he attaches a chain to the DS upper motor mount, and the other chain to 2 points (power steering bracket, and looped around lower PS axel bracket). Are those 3-points agreeable and/or the best points to attach to? Any other that are better, or is that as good as it gets?

- Duration to have engine suspended: how long can I keep the motor suspended by the motor hoist? Is it safe and/okay for the attachment points to have it suspended for the duration of the repair? I wouldn't get under it, I just don't want to accidentally crush the oil pan.

- Supporting trans during separation: looks he loops a chain under the trans, twice. Is that okay, or is there a better way to do this? I understand that the trans must be evenly supported, or else the bellhousing could twist and crack during separation.


Thanks all! I've never pulled a motor before, but am feeling quite up to the task. Every repair I've done has been more challenging than the last, that's how I've learned. It's about time I pulled the motor! I'm as equally excited as I am nervous.

Here is a list of all the parts I've gotten to do the repair:
-Rear main seal
-PS trans output seal
-DS trans output seal
-Trans pump seal
-Flexplate to crankshaft bolts
-Intake manifold gasket
-Oil and trans line cooler o-rings and clips
-Heater core o-rings and clips
-Exhaust gaskets
-Axle nuts

Plus (unrelated to seal replacement/motor removal):
-Coolant expansion tank
-All coolant hoses, plus associated clamps
-Vacuum lines (lengths of 1/4", 5/16", and 3/8")

Thanks! Sorry for such a long post, didn't want to revive the 6 year old thread.

[kahl]

Drivers side axle pops out with a tap from a chisel between the axle and tranny case. Clip stays in the tranny. To support the engine once out I built a platform with 2x4 with a piece of plywood on the top lower the engine oil pan to sit. The tranny is just hanging so a walker jack can support tranny. The tranny can then be pulled away using the walker jack.

I would also drop the oil pan to change the "O" rings on the oil pick up tube and clean out the channel leading to the PCV box.

[angelglo]

I commend you on doing your own work. ive pulled many motors on many cars in my life. I have also pulled a 97 Volvo glt years ago though I do not really remember how I did it or if there were anything special compared to other motors I have removed. I do them cause I do not see myself paying someone else my hard earned money to do something I can do myself.

For your question on supporting an engine for an amount of time, they engine hoist will hold your motor for longer than 3 days that you plan on doing the work. I have had big block chevys in the air with engine hoist up for weeks but just make sure it is closer to the ground. As far as if the oil pan will hold up, I have never had an oil pan collapse but I would also not quickly lower the motor onto the ground either. You can rest the entire weight of the motor onto the ground without the pan collapsing.

Do expect a mess. you will probably get a bunch of coolant all over the place and maybe even some oil so keep plenty of rags handy. Clean up as much as you can on the motor and the other accessories. I would also clean up the engine bay. It is a lot easier to work on a clean degreased motor then a greasy one; but that Is just my opinion. Make sure you also keep all your nuts and bolt in order. it is frustration when you ether loose a nut or bolt or you have some left over. I usually just try to put them back where they came from if I can but that takes time. you can just store in sandwich baggies and mark them.

You might also want to check your motor mounts. They usually crack and the one that attaches to passenger side subframe is more difficult to get to with the engine in. While you are at it and since your replacing your axle nuts, check the cv joint boots. make sure they are not cracked. If they are, your can just pull out our axles and either repair the boots or put in a new axle.

I don't know how long you have had your Volvo but I noticed that it has over 218000 miles on it. If you haven't already replaced it, I would also recommend that you replace your pcv system.

[dosbricks]

There is a lot of wiring on the front and driver's side of the engine plus vacuum hoses. I labeled all with a loop of blue painter's tape (easy to tear off later) and a laundry marker. It made reconnecting fast and with full confidence.

The driver's side axle is not hard to reinsert. Just grab the inner cv joint canister with both hands and give it a hard shove using the heel of you palms on the outer edge. Some say lining the clip ring up with the opening facing down makes it easier to reinsert, so I have always done that.

Here is rspi video of Robert and I changing the RMS on my wagon.

There are three videos that make up this series.

[benpineapple]

kahl: thanks for the advice, I think i'll build a platform for it as well, good idea covering it with plywood (to provide even support, I'm assuming). I'll nab some oil pan o-rings at the dealership later, just looked into it and didn't realize just how much easier it will be with the motor pulled. Thanks.

angelglo: Thanks! I've bought plenty of degreaser and scrub brushes to get it spic n span while its out. I've always been bother by how soot-ridden the engine bay is. It'll be nice to get it shiny again.
Glad to know I can leave it in the air. If I can remove and support my trans without the lift, I'll probably leave the motor in the air. I'm hoping the job only takes the 18-22 hours it's quoted at. But, like I said, I have set aside three days just in case.
I did a complete PCV replacement at 190xxx, so that system should be good for a while. Passed the glove test a couple weeks ago. I am still going to pull PCV components and clean them out, in case anything has built up since the replacement.
Motor mounts look okay. I replaced the PS lower mount last winter, and the front/rear mount don't look cracked, and aren't weeping hydraulic liquid. Pulling them will reveal whether or not they actually are in good shape. I'll be keeping the dealership on speed-dial in case I need to replace them or anything else.
Thanks for the heads up on CV boots. I haven't noticed any CV failure symptoms, but I'll definitely check the boots while they're out. Thanks.

dosbricks: I bought a bunch of glad bags to store nuts/bolts. I am planning on bagging things and labeling them according to each system they're for, and then arranging everything in a sequential line (first thing I pull will be at the end of the line) so that everything goes back in according to how it came out. I'll make sure I bring painters tape for labeling plugs and vac lines and whatnot.
Thanks a ton for the pointed on circlip orientation. I'll heed your advice when reinstalling.
Thanks for linking the video. I'd seen his motor swap, but hadn't seen that one. Thanks!


Thanks everyone for chiming in! All questions answered! I'll post back on how it went, and any additional notes I feel are useful for future reference.

[erikv11]

When you remove the axle, the circlip does not stay in the trans, it will be on the end of the axle when you pull it out. The chisel is just used to force the axle housing apart from the trans housing, any triangular shaped wedge will do but the chisel is a perfect shape. Some people like to use a wedge shaped piece of wood, it is even easier on the shell case of the trans.

I would definitely pull the oil pan and replace all oil pickup-related seals inside, make sure the pan is sludge-free, good advice.

Flexplate bolts and especially axle nuts I have pulled many times, but never replaced. The old ones are fine if you want to re-use them.

[benpineapple]

When you remove the axle, the circlip does not stay in the trans, it will be on the end of the axle when you pull it out. The chisel is just used to force the axle housing apart from the trans housing, any triangular shaped wedge will do but the chisel is a perfect shape. Some people like to use a wedge shaped piece of wood, it is even easier on the shell case of the trans.

I would definitely pull the oil pan and replace all oil pickup-related seals inside, make sure the pan is sludge-free, good advice.

Flexplate bolts and especially axle nuts I have pulled many times, but never replaced. The old ones are fine if you want to re-use them.

Cool, thanks for the info. I'll be pulling the oil pan.

I read that once flexplate bolts are torqued down, they're supposed to get torqued an addition 45degrees. Have you ever had the old bolts break as they get that final torque? It'd be nice to not have to replace them. Dealer charged me like $8 per bolt. Also, do they NEED the 17mm star socket to remove/replace? Or will a standard 17mm socket do the job?

[kahl]

Here is a picture of the axle with the circlip as Erikv11 pointed out. Sorry for the misinformation.

[erikv11]

I've only done it twice, but not had a flex plate bolt break on me. I am pretty sure you use a threadlocker on those, too? I would have to look at the write ups.

... Also, do they NEED the 17mm star socket to remove/replace? Or will a standard 17mm socket do the job?

Standard, 12-point, 17 mm socket works perfectly.

[benpineapple]

image.jpg

Here is a picture of the axle with the circlip as Erikv11 pointed out. Sorry for the misinformation.

Awesome! Thanks for the pic kahl! visualization helps a great deal.

I've only done it twice, but not had a flex plate bolt break on me. I am pretty sure you use a threadlocker on those, too? I would have to look at the write ups.

Standard, 12-point, 17 mm socket works perfectly.

I've got red and blue loctite threadlock on hand, I believe I read that flexplate bolts require red (heavy duty heat resistant) threadlock.

Glad to know that socket will work. I'll post back on how it goes! Thanks all for chiming in!