Chaosrob 1999 v70R 601 save, Going to need a lot of parts, lot of help and do a lot of reading.. Topic is solved

[V50M66]

The black marble is fantastic. It’s one of the reasons I’ve kept my GLT so long instead of trying to find a T5.

Could always swap it into a T5 of your choosing.

However, speaking from personal experience, a GLT car is a very good time with a 16T and some extra boost…

[chaosrob]

interesting, tyvm

Running the vin on the site given to me by v50m66 this info came back on the engine, is this typical for a 99? I figured they all had ear and air pumps at that time.

w/o EGR, w/o air pump, w/OBDII, w/variable valve timing, Bosch ME 7.0, w/RuLo, w/ORVR Transmission: V70 R

That’s all correct. ‘99 was first year of ME7 engine management, which got rid of secondary air in favor of VVT, replaced the mechanical throttle with an ETM, went to a returnless fuel system, added coil on plug, etc. EGR wasn’t a thing after ‘96. It’s far more modern than you’d expect for how old it is - the P2 chassis used a continuation of that same engine management system up until the P2 S60 was discontinued after the 2009 model year.

[abscate]

The black marble is fantastic. It’s one of the reasons I’ve kept my GLT so long instead of trying to find a T5.

Could always swap it into a T5 of your choosing.

However, speaking from personal experience, a GLT car is a very good time with a 16T and some extra boost…

My Silver Kat was a low pressure AWD Edith’s big breathing Bosal cat and exhaust and it sure did come off the line nicely. The T5 would beat it on the highway pull from 60-(statute of limitations still not expired)

Enjoying this restoration thread. The only thing you can do here to get banned is put an eggcrate grill(e) on it. JK, MVS joke

[V50M66]

My Silver Kat was a low pressure AWD Edith’s big breathing Bosal cat and exhaust and it sure did come off the line nicely. The T5 would beat it on the highway pull from 60-(statute of limitations still not expired)

My green ‘98 (factory AWD trim, which has the GLT’s low pressure turbo engine from the factory, but is now manual swapped and FWD swapped) has a 16T, intercooler, greens, etc and a tune - it keeps up with my buddy’s MTE-tuned P2 V70R up until around 95 mph, and annihilates stock T5s. It’s seriously fast for what it is, and a total blast to drive.

[chaosrob]

Funny enough that you should say this, I just ordered a grill yesterday lol

The black marble is fantastic. It’s one of the reasons I’ve kept my GLT so long instead of trying to find a T5.

Could always swap it into a T5 of your choosing.

However, speaking from personal experience, a GLT car is a very good time with a 16T and some extra boost…

My Silver Kat was a low pressure AWD Edith’s big breathing Bosal cat and exhaust and it sure did come off the line nicely. The T5 would beat it on the highway pull from 60-(statute of limitations still not expired)

Enjoying this restoration thread. The only thing you can do here to get banned is put an eggcrate grill(e) on it. JK, MVS joke

[chaosrob]

Today I went out and pulled the covers to do a little prep work for the timing belt job tomorrow. I only had about 30 minutes today due to family obligations but HOLY HECK are the timing marks on the cam pulleys tiny. maybe it's just my old eyes but I must have passed them a couple times staring blankly at the pulleys trying to find something...anything. Figured out the marking on the crank gear and still didn't see them on the cam pulleys so did another rotation and viola, the tiniest little etching on the gears. White paint pen came out, now I can actually see. rotated it another bit and back to accommodate the vvt pulley and should be pretty set for the most part.

The cam seals aren't leaking on this should I go ahead and change them out? Are they a common leak point? If I don't need to change them I won't lock the cams, if the common thought is to change them then I will need to pull the upper mount off that side and the sensor I am guessing is behind it to lock them in. Advice is appreciated. TIA

[abscate]

103k miles, leave them alone. Double check for seeps but no reason to replace seals at 100k

The RN timing marks are tiny, indeed.

[chaosrob]

That was were I was leaning but wanted to ask those in the know. Do you typically run the car after replacing the belt a couple of times to make sure the tensioner doesn't need a little tweak? I have always used a belt tension gauge or hydraulic tensioner on belts in the past. his is my first job with a tensioner that requires spacing in a "window"

103k miles, leave them alone. Double check for seeps but no reason to replace seals at 100k

The RN timing marks are tiny, indeed.

[abscate]

The timing tension isn’t critical onthe mechanical tensioner. Put the gauge in the middle of the range on a cold engine and tighten.

Read the procedure carefully, you tension it past the set point, then return to the set point. It’s aldo important to do the full two revs of the belt before tensioning

[chaosrob]

Waiting on parts to do the timing job, a couple were missing from the "kit". The OZ Wheels came in so I couldn't resist throwing two on just to see how they will look. With it on the ground I think they will look really good, vintage appropriate imho