Chaosrob 1999 v70R 601 save, Going to need a lot of parts, lot of help and do a lot of reading.. Topic is solved

[chaosrob]

Questions for the experts yet again. I wound up buying a thermostat housing gasket, this one does not show signs of leaking. Should I just change the thermostat or remove the housing and replace the gasket? I am uncertain of proper protocol with this thing. TIA

[scot850]

Normally I don't remove the housing unless it is either cracked (by a dumbass breaking it trying to remove the thermostat screws), or I can't get the screws loose as they are corroded in or I've stripped the heads out.

I remove the 2 Torx screws and just replace the thermostat with it's rubber ring seal.

Neil.

[scot850]

I usually try spraying with PB Blaster or like a day or so before trying to remove. I also have an extended Torx bit to allow it to clear the valve cover for the rear screw. I use a hammer on the Torx bit to shock the connection between the bolt and thermostat housing threads. It usually helps but not a 100% guarantee.

Good Luck!

Neil.

[454cid]

I didn't have any issues getting my thermostat bolts out, but when I put them back, I used a bit of anti-seize to keep them free for next time.

[Sveedy]

I've never had a problem with them either, but this last time (yesterday) I decided to switch out the torx bolts for a couple of cam cover bolts.
I don't know why they decided to go with the torx to begin with. Seems like everything else up top is 10mm.

[abscate]

It looks like tRue R tRim in metal is a sort of a flat silver while the T5 trim is dimpled. I think we found part numbers different too.

[454cid]

I've never had a problem with them either, but this last time (yesterday) I decided to switch out the torx bolts for a couple of cam cover bolts.

I bought some, but have never used them. My originals were so clean, and came out so well, that I didn't see the point in changing them. I used 1/4" drive tools, and I think I later bought a long bit for this job. I should look for that, as I have no idea where that would be now.

I don't know why they decided to go with the torx to begin with. Seems like everything else up top is 10mm.

My guess would be clearance on the assembly line. Those tools would have sleeves for safety covering them, so that people can't get gloves or whatever caught up in them. A ~10nm nut driver can twist a finger off, and 10nm is pretty low torque for automotive fasteners.

[chaosrob]

I got the Torx for the thermo cover off without any fanfare. Took the advice and soaked the bolts overnight with kroil and gave the t25 a couple raps with a hammer on each before loosening and came right off, thanks for the suggestions. I was really happy to see all the internal cooling passages in this thing were pretty clean and not overly corroded like the outside.

[chaosrob]

Sorry I haven't posted in a bit, I hadn't had time to do much work to it in the past three weeks. I am trying to get my property in shape before winter and putting up a cabin, shop etc while dealing with work, typical first world problems I know.

I finally had a few hours to get back on it and the engine is back together and running! I fired it up for the first time last night and it sounds good but I need to do a longer test run to check for any leaks etc before moving on to the brakes and suspension. I have never cleaned so much on one engine bay in my entire life, it was interesting trying to make 13 years of field sitting at least somewhat presentable. Every time I touched/removed something it was time to clean, clean, clean. Every loom was toast and all needed to be redone (I still missed a couple wires and need to get them addressed also. The list of everything replaced as preventative is embarrassingly long but I feel it is worth it to deal with now and call it done rather than wait for it to break when I am trying to enjoy it later.

I really want to thank everyone here for their assistance with my novice questions through this project. Not having any experience with the platform or even a manual for reference meant you saved me some time and potential issues I am sure. A big thank you to the community.

Tomorrow I will do a more length start up and run time to check for leaks, dribbles and screwups but it did start, idle and run smoothly. After these checks next is;

Finish installing exhaust. I need a downstream 02 sensor extension with the vast downpipe so waiting on the to be delivered.

All new suspension, brakes, brake lines, inner and outer tie rods, control arms, etc.

[scot850]

Your project is coming along really nicely, as the saying goes, if it is worth doing, do it right!

It is amazing what a transformation happens, even when just cleaning all the years of crud off.

Neil